Anyone have a pnw components coupon code? I need a new dropper to replace my saggy reverb.
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Anyone have a pnw components coupon code? I need a new dropper to replace my saggy reverb.
Speaking of XT or XTR shifter, is anyone sitting on a bar-clamp version of the shifter? Or just the cover itself (part number Y0GT98020). Predictably enough the thing is out of stock everywhere.
I have an I-SPEC XT shifter and can't really position if far enough inboard to prevent it from digging into my thumb when descending. I also run my levers quite flat and the angle of the shifter isn't great. I wouldn't mind swapping the cover and turning my I-spec shifter into a bar-clamp version. XT and XTR versions are compatible but SLX and below are different.
As an aside rant, this "clean cockpit" concept is fucking annoying when it means manufacturers force you to choose which control is going to end up in a sub-par position. I couldn't care less if my bars look cluttered, I'll take 4 different bar clamps if it means I can have brake levers, dropper post, and shifter where I want them to be.
Ah i see. I kept trying to look at the welds but its hard to see a phone pic on my phone. Should be a good fit, marin have some aggresive geo these days. The team at marin seem pretty stoked on cool bikes these days
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Yeah I've been enjoying the hell out of it. Not the best components, but easily upgradable as things break and wear.
I’m still on a 26” bike (Pivot Mach 5) but found new old stock Stan’s Bravo rims and paired them with DT Swiss 240EXPs. Just transferred the cassette, rotors, taped the rims and mounted the tires today.
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Colorado Cyclist has them for reasonable in stock and free shipping.
I might be interested in taking that I-Spec off your hands…
https://www.coloradocyclist.com/shim...fters-12-speed
Just following up - I was having the loosening cranks issue with my Aeffect Rs. I checked them after each ride after you mentioned the problem, and found that the bolt had backed off a bit.
I ended up removing one of the 1 mm spacers that comes stock on the spindle, and so far the bolt has stayed tight. I was also getting some binding on my bb, but the cranks now spin freely after removing the spacer. I am pretty sure the spacer was putting too much preload on the bb and preventing the crank from bottoming on the splines, which is what was causing it to come loose. I am using a Shimano bb rather than the Race Face one the cranks were designed around, and there can be minor differences in bb shell width, so the stock spacer setup may have been incorrect.
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Nice! Luvs coil
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I need a lyric/yari 29 boost csu. Anyone holding or any ideas where to look for one?
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Wanted to try an X2 on the Switchblade, but they're hard to come by.
Going to give the new Float X at shot.
We'll see how the new new compares to the DPX2.
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Guess this goes here, though I picked it up several days ago - finished making my tweaks and additions, need to dial in suspension still, and take it for its first ride.
Salsa Blackthorn carbon SLX, 160/140 29er. Slackest and burliest bike I've ever had. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e3e1dba2c1.jpg
Fancy shoes, fancy hubs, fancy tires.
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I wanted the blue shoes and 350 hubs or hopes or something in that price range but you take what you can get these days. Rims to go with the hubs and tires should be here pretty soon. I have been spending too much money.
^^damn^^
I've been eyeing a rambler..
How was wait times?
Finally got around to installing the XT derailleur (been tied up with life and off the bike for a few weeks), and can confirm a new XT shifts much better than a deformed XTR.
Looks like the only damage on the XTR derailleur is the inner and outer plates holding the pulley wheels, so I guess I should ask - anyone have a worn out 12 speed XTR derailleur that has plates in good condition? New XTR parts cost as much as and XT derailleur, so can’t justify that purchase.
I was looking at these in spring at REI, and they went out of stock fast. A friend got one but in the wrong size for me - but I could check it out anyway.
They came back in stock and I bought one. A week or so for shipping time, that was it.
I had it shipped to the Bend OR REI store, because Oregon doesn't have sales tax. Used it as an excuse to take a trip to Bend... but smoke and 95* temps limited riding.
FWIW, a full price bike at REI counts for the 10% dividend. Buying it on their co branded Mastercard gets another 5% back. These days, 15% off seems like a deal.
So, watch REI inventory and be ready to buy if you see stock!
I hear the XT’s sneak out at night and get ‘R’ tattoos.
Poseurs.
Long shot here, anyone have a 425 spring that will work on a DHX2, 230mm x 60mm?
Just scored the body, but no spring…
I bought 4 springs (3 steel, then one SLS) off thelostco in the last few weeks for my 185x55. They seemed to have the best stock.
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I'd buy another SAR spring without thinking. Eibach steel alloy are accurate weights and don't soften for a long time and nicely designed pom's. Top quality at a decent price. Mirka still runs it after Dave Garland passed and she's a pleasure to deal with
https://superalloyracing.com/
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I've been meaning to drop a pic in here of the new ride, but been too busy riding to take photos. Upgraded from a 2016 Ibis HD3 27.5 to this Orbea Occam, 29er with 150/140. Climbs like a dream, big fat 203 rotors, and I'm dialing in the suspension. Already took out 2 of 3 fork tokens, probably pulling the 3rd pretty soon. Also went to a small from a medium, which seems appropriate as I'm 5.5+.
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Speaking of Orbea ... stuck inside with the smoke so I've been riding the trainer a lot lately and decided to give the road bike some attention. Bike is from 2008 with mostly original parts, probably something like 25K miles. Brifter levers were failing and I couldn't find new 10 speed replacement parts. The frame and wheels are still in good shape so I upgraded the crankset, derailleurs, chain, cassette, and brifters to Ultegra 11 speed. Kept the Dura Ace rim brakes since they still work fine and are compatible with the levers (plus wanted to keep some of the DA bling).
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Shorts are definitely tight. Weighed out to 32.8 lbs with pedals.
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Nice! I see you got rid of the tiger decals? lol
That's actually a pretty good weight, especially considering the Rock'rs.
And as an FYI, the high Trail setting is noticeably more progressive in addition to being less travel. I like it a lot better than Gravity.
New bearings installed
Used table top vice and the old bearing overtop to press in new ones. Slow and steady was key. Didn't have an issue and got all of them seated. Main pivot was a bit harder but used the axle bolt to seat one bearing then did the other side.
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Trading my 475# coil for someone’s 500# so while I wait threw the air can on to see just how much I love my push 11-6 coil.
Haha
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Yeah, tried that and it helped for a while but the same issue kept coming back. Plus the inside lever on my left brifter has been broken (as in broken off) for years, and I was wanting to move to a compact crank (cause I'm old and no longer riding 300+ miles/week), so it was a good excuse to upgrade.
I actually weighed it three times and got 32.76, 34.5 and 32.83, so rather than do it a few more times I just decided the 34.5 was a fluke and ran with 32.8 as the "official" number. I tried to have an open mind about the stickers but even my 11 y.o. thought they needed to go. She included a pretty nice frame bag that also happens to be tiger striped. Next project is to try and remedy that with some kind of durable outdoor fabric paint (Plastidip?).
That's interesting about your setting preferences. I never ran my old frame in the high setting unless I was somewhere like Phil's or Gooseberry. I'll be sure to spin some laps in both modes.
160mm 29er fork with short cup, both Gravity & Trail settings. I haven't run the bike with a 27.5 front wheel yet (with 29er fork and short cup, so basically stock geometry with 160mm front travel). I was meaning to do that, since I haven't run a full 27.5 in a couple years, but then recently rode my buddy's SB165, and noticed the front wheel getting kicked around a lot, so that's dampened my enthusiasm for that experiment.
I would only suggest the 170mm/165mm MX setup if you ride a lot of very steep, very chunky terrain, don't care a ton about climbing, and probably with an air shock. That setup will be very, very slack. The 160mm fork MX setup seems a lot more balanced / less of a gravity sled.
Gravity mode is fine with a coil, but loses a lot of pop. Gravity felt a lot more responsive with an X2. Either way, make sure to adjust your shock's air pressure / spring rate when you change modes. For coils, it seems you can drop 25# from Gravity to Trail for the same sag.
Cool. The "official" MX build on the website is a 170 fork. I think the HTA is listed as 63.2*. I do ride a lot of steep and chunky, but a 160 fork makes a lot more sense. I'll be sticking with air as I'm madly in love with the Mara Pro.
Speaking of Mara Pro, this isn't a new purchase but I'm about to have the travel spacer removed from mine to increase the stroke from 50 to 55mm (I'd do it myself but I don't want to bleed the damper, that seems a bit more complex than I'm willing to tackle). Apparently the Occam can handle the longer stroke with no clearance issues and it bumps the rear travel from 140 to 154mm. Next step is to pop one of the tokens out of the Mezzer to get the travel to 160mm and boom, a bunch more squish with more or less the same angles.