It does not.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
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It does not.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Just because the tire cleared the crown, it didn’t mean the uppers wouldn’t touch the tire on full and heavy compression.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
In the early years of 27.5 our shop saw many bad examples of guys trying this.
This is true. I can confirm that the newer 2015 onward chassis worked though. The older one didn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
29 in a 27.5 one is very much no go though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Thanks guys. Much appreciated. Im buying a complete 27.5 bike. Mullet just fits me. Looks like ill need to suck it up and get a 9er fork and sell the 27.5Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
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Fox 36 Performance Grip 2 vs Factory Grip 2 vs Lyrik?
So I am gonna try to fix my Diamond this week. Open up the air spring and replace the broken OTT adjustment. Right now it has no OTT aka slow speed fucking blows. This fork has seen lots of racing and riding over 3 seasons. It's probably time to move on anyway.
Lots of used 36 PE on pinkbike. Very few used factory. Also thinking of going new. Lyrik Ultimate is cheaper than Factory 36 by almost $150. Leaning that way if I go new.
If I were to go Fox the only difference with the PE and Factory is Kashima, correct?
Yes thats the difference. Kashima/no kashima, as i understand.
I can understand going for a new fork if youve beat on yours a lot. Chances are it just might need new seals though. OTT is awesome. All the new forks are good. Im on a rock shox now and its good but i also lkke the fox. I still like the dvo the best though. Durable, ez to service, great customer support and less expensive. OTT gives them the possibility of the closest to a coul feeling of any air fork. Nice fender too. I like the no cost travel adjust too. Onyx sc 29 gives a lot of options. Id ride any of them though and theres usually new take offs for a good savings on pb
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I replaced seals like a month ago. I also did a full damper bleed. New oil in the lowers. I couldn't get the air shaft open to replace the "puck". I have a new pin spanner in the mail that might help get it open. It was riding ok for a few days, but then started to feel rough. The OTT snapped and now it has no low speed/OTT. I have a new OTT getting delivered this week. Will replace the puck if I can while I have it apart....assuming I can get the damn air shaft open.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Damn! Good investigating. Sounds like you've got some good use out of it. Mine has been without a frame/bike gor a year now but other than an annual cleaning and one complete seal change its been trouble free. Its the old non boost diamond that ive gone back and forth from 150 to 160 travel a few times, so i keep trying to rationalize an onyx. Good luckQuote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Kind of looking at a mezzer after the good reports around the forum too. They also can have the travel adjusted internally by removing/installing a spacer/clip. Seeing a few good prices but im not sure how msrp stacks up. I was thinking of getting a quote on a new onyx and mezzer to compare. Probably end up looking at something else on the used market though
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I was looking at mezzer as well, but I saw at least one pretty bad review.....doesn't mean much though. Setup could have been bad or something. Kinda scared me off though.
Ya 10/4 part of the reason i dont stray too far, the unexpected. Havent researched part availability either but manitou have had good customer support up here. They set a buddy up nicely with dorado internal upgrades. The thing feels good
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This was the review that kinda spooked me away.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review...-pro-fork.html
Ah yes. I wouldnt want to chance bushing play and my wrists at this point favour small bump compliance. Thats why i like the dvo with OTT and my marz wc ti coil fork a couple forks before it. Rock shox has been ok there too. Just not as decisive with the intial travel. It kind of just floats around in there. I have the new debonair air shaft ordered and thats supposed to improcmve that as well as more midstroke suppost. Regardless, currently it still works well, just not quite dvo well. The 2020 rs could be every bit as good though. Ive just demoed a few bikes with fox so no long term knowledge. Find it weird that ive never been able to get full travel out of their forks since my old 26" rc2 36. Nice damping though on the upper end forksQuote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
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Since my fucking luck is getting shittier by the day with bikes, someone please recommend me a sandpaper for smoothing out the nice scratches I put in my Kashima this weekend, 30 minutes after blowing up another rear derailleur.
Use an angle grinder, buff that shit right out!
Diamond jeweller file to take down the burr, 800g sandpaper for the edges of the scratch, nail polish to fill the gouge, 1200g sandpaper to smooth out the nail polish.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Ok, experts...I can’t seem to find this item in QBP, eBay, search, or anywhere, really.
Is there a microspline freehub body that will bolt onto existing shimano 11 speed hubs?
I find them for lots of other hubs, but not the standard shimano style.
That'd be kind of stange if they didnt design in compatibility with their older hubs but not fully unexpected.
Almost ends up to be the opposite result of what they initially tried, if thats the case. They tried to corner the market, like santa cruz' vpp play gaining cred by allowing just intense to use vpp, and just let dt use the micro spline originally to gain cred and corner the market. That didnt work, so now most aftermarket hub makers can have a micro spline freehub , so that gives more reasons to change hub brands rather than stay on shimano with your older hub, until you get the new shimano hub. I want micro spline but theyve kind of stumbled with the release. People still buy shimano hubs? I havent considered them for a few years. The xtr used to be amazing
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Well, let me completely change the question.
WTB: gently used, lightweight carbon 27.5 wheels that are microspline compatible for wifey.
Ideally 27-30 ID, 15/12mm BOOST.
That will probably make more sense.
I found some XTR 11 speed wheels with carbon rims, and if I could find a bolt on microspline hub, they would be in contention.
To be clear. I have no idea if theyre compatible. Maybe they are. That'd make for a quick swap
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New one for me - did a bleed on a rear XT brake (M785 vintage) but can't get the pistons to advance. Looking at the pistons without the brake block, pulling the lever causes them to move slightly in but if I release the lever they just retract back to where they were. With the brake block the lever never gets firm, and if I put the pads and wheel in I can only barely get the pads to touch the rotor with the free stroke screw all the way in. Figured I just messed up the bleed and tried rebleeding 3-4 times, top down (with the funnel) and bottom up with a syringe. No dice. Not seeing any leaks either at the lever or the caliper. Any ideas?
I spent a good amount of time yesterday searching for a Microspline freehub body for a Hope hub. Nothing. All I could find were these cheap, Chinese versions which I don't trust.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAVIC-HOPE-...MAAOSw4oFdoX4C
Which foot forward through turns? I am trying to improve and have always ridden with the dominant foot forward. The other crank arm & pedal has a lot of damage from rock strikes. Should I have my inside foot forward through the turn since the rear wheel tracks on a tighter line.
It feels weird when taking drops & turns with the other foot forward and hard to get use to. Really hard to drop the heel.
My guess is, you subconsciously let your rear foot (non dominant) drop when you settle into a turn or land a drop. My wife does that and I’m alway catching it on videos of her doing drops. And she destroys pedals.
I’d say focus on staying more balanced between the two feet.
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You generally want your outside foot down around 5:30-6 in turns without berms.Quote:
Originally Posted by thechad
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Watch a World Cup DH race. It’s rider preference. Whatever keeps you planted.
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Thanks for the tip! Rider preference..check. That’s very empowering.
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I have asked over on the Shimano Tech Forum about converting a "older" XTR 9020 wheel to Micro Spline. They are very quick to answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
When searching for a new wheel set here is a list of almost all options for Micro Spline. This was updated by the Shimano guys 2 months ago:
Hub/Wheel Manufacturers
Aivee
Chris King
DT Swiss
E-13
Factor
Fulcrum
Hadley
Halo
Hope
Hunt
Ibis
Identiti
Industry Nine
Mavic
Newman
Novatec
Onyx
Pacenti
Project321
Reynolds
RideFast Racing
Spank
Stan's No Tubes
Sun Ringle
Tune
White Industries
Manufacturers using DT internals with Microspline options
Bontrager
Roval
Syncros
Notable wheel brands using third party Microspline hubs
Atomik
Crank Bros.
Enve
Santa Cruz Reserve
NOBL
Nox Composites
Revel
Revin
We Are One
DH pros mostly corner with their preferred foot forward, regardless of which direction they're turning.
Very interesting that Shimano sent you that, as they are not even on the list.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
These are all brands that have an official license for Micro Spline.
Dominant foot usually goes back in a regular stance (snowboarding, skating etc.) so if you are normally right handed, your left foot will be forward unless you ride boards goofy.Quote:
Originally Posted by thechad
Yes, I know. I’m just saying it’s weird that you can’t find a bolt on for shimano hubs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Ski edge gummi stone.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
I'm somehow right handed, right boards goofy, ride a bike left foot forward...Quote:
Originally Posted by geomorph
I'm right-handed/footed, do board sports right foot-back, but ride bikes right foot-forward.Quote:
Originally Posted by geomorph
As far as which foot forward, I ride goofy on my longboard and prefer my right foot forward. That being said, I often switch it up depending on the trail. Sometimes there might be a lot of rocks, shrubs, or other obstacles on the right side of my bike when going downhill. I often prefer my right foot back in that situation to lessen the chance of slamming into something with my pedal. Also, I sometimes have my outside foot straight down if I'm trying to rail a hard corner.
I've been running a 2.3 Minion DHR2 for a few years and am happy, no real reason to change, but what would the corresponding Specialized tire be? I may be able to get a deal on some if they offer something that works as well.
What works well and what’s gimmicky in the “on-bike tool carry” game?
- Steerer tube systems - Oneup, Specialized
- Bar End Systems - Wolftooth
- Bottom Bracket systems - All In Multitool
- thru axle system - I9
- bottle cage integrated stuff - Too many options to list...
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Specialized doesn't really have a legit DHR2 equivalent. Eliminator and Purgatory are the closest. If I wanted a meaty Specialized tire for the rear, I'd run a Butcher (which is more or less a DHF clone).Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Despite all the fancy ways to carry a tool, I still prefer to just throw a multi tool in my pocket. Easier access. No weirdness.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21