Got my first spinner after quite a few mounts. Time to learn a new skill. What size do I drill to use a plastic insert? Is it worth it, or should I just put in a proper BF insert? It won't be a swappable mount.
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Got my first spinner after quite a few mounts. Time to learn a new skill. What size do I drill to use a plastic insert? Is it worth it, or should I just put in a proper BF insert? It won't be a swappable mount.
YMMV, but I've had good success with fixing a spinner by using a little fiberglass insulation stuffed into the hole, mixed with epoxy. My theory is that the fibers help bond to the edges of the hole and the epoxy holds everything in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by Breomonkey
Try machinable epoxy and redrill first. 5/16"/8mm hole for nylon tap ins. 1/4" for BF inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Breomonkey
This. Fibreglass roof insulation + slow set epoxy. Heavy on the fibreglass, like 4:1, way more than you'd think until it gets almost to a putty consistency. Stuff it in, snug up the screw, leave to set then fully tighten. Easy to re-do if it doesn't work.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Just finished mounting my girl friend's skis with Sollyfit plates using tools and techniques pulled from this thread. Easiest mount yet thanks to Jon's bit/tap guide, precise plates and the collective knowledge gained from here. Props to all of the contributors. My contribution is that it's worth the time to clamp the drill guide to the ski so that it doesn't wander while drilling. I tried to drill while holding the guide with my other hand and noticed the guide move a little. The hole was OK, but not perfect. Four of those with D-fit toes might be enough to fuck up a mount. I clamped the remaining holes and they were all perfect.
Just got done mounting the last pair of my own fucking skis for this winter. Quiver is looking strong if I say so myself, photo coming soon.
One hiccup in the last mount: one slight base dimple thanks to me using one screw slightly too long (I wasn't drinking, so there you go). A good fix I improvised was to cut out three tiny circles of Gorilla Tape, stick them on the dimple then clamp it hard with plates each side.
Whenever you get a dimple:Quote:
Originally Posted by LC
- Remove binding screw ASAP.
- Heat area with heat gun.
- Place a metal scraper on base.
- Pound with hammer.
- Replace with correct length screw.
^^^^^^ this
Yep, I've done that in shops previously but I don't own a heat gun or hair dryer hence the improvised clamp. It worked very well, just sharing the tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs
About to mount my first set of tech binders and ran into something that I'm not sure if it's a problem or not. I popped the boots into the bindings just for shits and giggles but noticed that the bindings don't lay flush on the top sheet.
The toe piece is elevated way up. And if I push the toe down so it sits flush, this is how far the heel lifts:
http://i.imgur.com/b9Tqti5m.jpg
Pics are kinda crappy, but it shows the issue. It looks like the boot sole rubber prevents the the toe from rotating completely. Is this gonna be a problem? Do i have incompatible boots/bindings? What do?
You have to remove some boot sole rubber. Not uncommon with all the different boot/binding combos out there.
That's what I figured. Time to dig out the X-acto knife. Thanks!
Mounted my own fucking skis today. Plum Race 170 on Down YW8 186’s from the group buy. Mounted with inserts from BF. Mount is dead fucking center. Beginner’s luck probably.
http://i.imgur.com/UHvOTRch.jpg
Big thanks to all the maggots on this thread who have contributed info over the years and HUGE GIANT thanks to Jonathan S. who provided a heel template and invaluable suggestions before (and during) the job.
The process definitely took longer than I anticipated as I was dealing with inserts and going slow. It was my first time doing any sort of binding mount but I figured I should sack up and jump straight to pro level mounting with race bindings in inserts. Spent about $120 on tools (bit, tap and tap handle, drill guide block, pozi driver, etc) and parts (inserts, screws, epoxy, vibratite, etc), but I know I'm doing at least 2 more mounts this season, so I'll make my money back before February.
Some lessons learned:
- Practice on a dumpster ski first. I suppose a 2x4 could work, but a real ski is definitely a better practice run.
- I used the folding paper method to find the center line. I made 4 dots along the length of the ski to ensure the line was accurate the entire length. Then connected them with a 48” straight edge. Having a 2nd person to hold the edge while you draw the line helps big time. Make your center mark as long as possible for greatest accuracy.
- Don’t use blue tape. If you’ve got it, use the tan/manila painters tape instead – it’s relatively transparent so you can lay strips over other strips and still be able to sight through it.
- The BindingFreedom drill/tap guide block is worth its weight in gold. But it WILL wobble and shift unless you clamp both ends. Be careful when clamping that you don't nudge it.
- I used a small finishing nail as my center punch. I filed the tip to get it razor sharp. When I had my template lined up, I gave the nail a very gentle tap to pierce the template paper. Then measured those dots in the paper against the ski edge with calipers to ensure both dots were equidistant. Then measure again to be sure.
- Once I was positive the side-by-side punctures in the template were equidistant to the edges, I lifted the template, then measured the dots in the painters tape below. Once those were confirmed to be accurate as well, only then I lifted up the painters tape on the top skin. Then measured the divots in the top skin. Once those were confirmed to be accurate, I finally drilled and tapped.
- Getting truly accurate punch-to-edge measurements was proving to be very difficult so I rigged this up. Just a straight edge taped securely onto calipers. Make sure to leave the lowest edge of the left caliper arm exposed so you can confirm alignment hasn’t shifted:
http://i.imgur.com/Pf31PdPl.jpg- BF recommends doing a normal mount with a normal 3.6 or 4.1 bit and normal screws to test fit and function. Once you confirm that everything works, pull the bindings, drill out the holes with the larger insert-specific bit, and then tap/install the inserts. I didn’t do this. I just went straight to inserts. I probably should have done a test mount first. But everything worked out fine.
That is a sexy, light touring rig. Nicely done.
Looks awesome! Contemplating a similar setup myself.
Anyone in the Boulder area have a large Salomon guardian jig-a-rex plate that I can borrow in the near future? PM me if you can assist.
I've done 5 mounts thus far, all this year. I haven't yet truly fucked up -- one mount a few mms forward of where I intended (even on both skis), one spinner (drilled out and nylon inserted.)
But I'm a little nervous about putting a 2nd set of holes in these skis I picked up today.
https://scontent.fsnc1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0b&oe=56958144
Don't worry, they're the sissy 184 version. Thinking Barons off my Megawatts to make this my only touring ski (short pass laps at Luv/Berthoud/Jones and running out the gates at Loveland)
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01...bbe74be54d.jpg
Barons on BCs
Quick and painless
Shout out to NEBCO for keeping me hydrated while in the man cave
Re-mounted these beauties at +2cm... you know... for switch landings.
Freeballed it... no problem.
I'm trying again but something won't let me upload photos properly...
Inserts with a jig and SlideWright tools done on the hill.
Attachment 174925
Attachment 174926
Attachment 174927
Attachment 174928
Attachment 174929
Nice. The on-the-snow shop gives it that special pro look.
And the only thing I need a guide for is the tap -- that thing wobbles when I breath on it. Impressive you don't.
I've done three so far this season and they've all been fine.
Mounted a pair of fucking tele planks this morning. Picked up the minty Megawatts from gearswap. Third (freehand) mount of the season, can't wait to get out on them!
Attachment 174969
In the kitchen for that special pro look.
Good deal on those MegaWatts.
^^^^
Nice.
Curious as to how many apply thread locker to the inserts vs to the screws? More often than not, it gets down to banging out a swap with no time or desire to re-apply Vibra Tite to the screws. Re-applying to the insert threads in 'skis in-waiting' can be done anytime and let the threadlocker cure and doesn't require pulling the screws from bindings, painting them, setting them out to dry and then re-installation.
First, wiping the insert threads with some alcohol on a q-tip seems like a good idea.
Are you intimating that you're supposed to let Vibra Tite dry on the screw? Before you put the screw into an insert? I've always just done it when the threadlocker is still wet; I guess I've been doing it wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
My understanding is that Vibra-tite needs to dry and Loctite goes in wet. If I'm using Loctite, I put a small drop in each insert. If I'm using Vibratite, I paint the screw threads, but I like the idea of putting a drop in the insert.
Vibra-Tite is supposed to air dry to touch first. It really only takes a few minutes unless there's lots of humidity or cold. The directions say 10-30 minutes depending on part size.
Rather than simply dropping some in the insert, I'd want to make sure the threads are coated. A Q-tip might be the call to work Vibra-Tite into the threads for the 5ml tubes. The 30cc bottle has a brush.
Well fuck. I attempted to mount Ions tonight and aborted.
I printed the template at work, didn't check the scale which was off about 4-5%. I tried taking measurements and drawing it out on tape off the centerline but it isn't looking right. Ultimately these will be inserts so i can share the bindings with other skis, and I just don't want tech bindings off, crooked, etc.
Anyone have a G3 jig or jigarex + Ion plates near Denver available for quick use?
Otherwise I'll re-print templates during the week, and try again.
Mounted a pair of Rossi FKS last night using an OEM jig from the 70's that I bought from a fellow mag. I had to remove the centering clamps since it only supports ~80 mm super wide skis, but it's still easy to use. Once the bsl is set and locked, I only have to center the jig and set the fore/aft position, and then drill away. Nice...
For Mags in SLC I have a Jiga Rex with Salomon STH 2 / Driver toe template and the STH2 - Z models that have the three screw and four screw mount pattern. PM me if you want to borrow it.Quote:
Originally Posted by flowing alpy
I've got ion plates in Frisco if you're around.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
Great. Thank you! Pm sent.Quote:
Originally Posted by jvskinn
Have used a stepped 1/4" bit to for inserts for some half a year or so but it is an older bit designed for QK inserts (so it doesn't go to the right depth). So I finally upgraded to the one SVST put together for BF inserts. First time, it gave me a peep hole right through the ski. Fuck! Repaired with a hard wood dowel piece, 24-hour epoxy, and ptex on the base. Anyone have success with the 1/4" stepped bit put out by BF/SVST? Could mine just be a freak that was defectively machined?
are you leaning down on the drill?
i went a little deep when I was trying to push to get through the metal layer, but, if you just let the bit do the work, its shoulder should be enough to halt you up in time
Yes, though didn't seem excessive and no more than previously -- aiming for just enough to get the bit to countersink, which in this case was just enough to punch through the ski. I'll experiment on scrap, I guess. And, in the meantime, use the damn stop collar for a 1/4" bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
I've done two mounts this season using the stepped bit for inserts. Bought it direct from BindingFreedom along with their drill guide block. No problems, no over drilling. 32 perfect holes for inserts.
Yeah, me thinks I have a bad bit. Did some test holes and it's pretty easy to punch through a 2x4 without much pressure (and requires a lot of force with another 1/4" stepped bit that I tried).
Bummer dschane. The BF bit and the SVST bit are the same one made by SVST like all of their reliable stepped drill bits.
I've never trusted the mere 1/32" shoulder on the step from the 5/16" to 1/4". I use and always recommend using a stop collar in conjunction with the bit as if it is essentially a straight bit. IMO, it is too easy for it to grab and drive down, especially if there is a metal top sheet.