I'm doing balljoints on my grand Cherokee. I froze the new balljoints and they slipped in by hand. They even have a bit of play. Does freezing contract then that much?
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I'm doing balljoints on my grand Cherokee. I froze the new balljoints and they slipped in by hand. They even have a bit of play. Does freezing contract then that much?
Pro move! Always wanted to do that but my last ball joint jobs were connected to the entire control arm so never been able to try that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocximus
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Yea it went really well when I did my Audi bearings. Unfortunately in this case even after I heated them up with a heat gun they are loose. This was going so well.
I wonder if gflex and some fiberglass will fix it.
Seems more like an aquaseal job to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocximus
I've done the freezer trick on front wheel bearing races for the cruiser. So easy to put in when they are frozen.
Not any wrenching, just enjoying the fruits of my labour.
Initial shakedown camping trip.
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The neighbors- giving me ideas for my next build?
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Does your daughter make you pay to use her rig ?Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog
It took a little patience and dealing with flakes, but just sold them to a nice guy who bought an older Tahoe without the third row. He's installing the hardware he got online and needed the seats.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
I had a couple inquiries from used car lots. One guy had me close to driving them 100 miles to Cheyenne but he wouldn't pre-pay so I said no dice.
Glad to see you enjoying all your hard work! You should put all your 90s Ford knowledge to use and build an E series camper van, or maybe a truck camper on an OBS?Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog
So back in the spring the passenger side heat on the truck would only command full heat. I pulled it apart, replaced the actuator with an Amazon one and..... It didn't work. Thought maybe it was the controller instead. Went to a junkyard and got 2 of them from similar vintage trucks. Everything did the same. Well, had to get it on the road so unplugged the actuator and manually set it to max cold for the summer. Fast forward to last week and I really need to get this fixed.
Ended up getting a part this time from the local auto parts store for $80 instead of $20. Plugged everything back in correctly and it worked. Yaaaay! Dual climate control.
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Seriously screw GM for putting it in the worst spot ever. Lots of videos on YouTube people pulling the whole dash. I just ended up removing the airbag and using a weird contraption of long arm vise grips and sockets to get these things off. About a 6mm if I remember correctly.
As a side note: Cocx, did you ever get that ball joint sorted out?
Before replacing that actuator, were you getting heat/cool in the middle settings on the driver's side? (not just full cold or full hot)
If it continues to only put out heat when full hot, or cold when full cold, I'd suggest replacing the ambient cabin air sensor in the headliner, just above the driver's door. GM calls it an aspirator. It's about $35 for the OEM part on Amazon.
My truck only put out cold A/C on full cold setting, or heat on full hot setting. Replaced that aspirator and it works normally now. Mine has the more problematic digital display HVAC control unit - - the manual one you have is more reliable.
Blend door motors are never easily accessible. That actually looks pretty tame.
I've heard it only takes about 20 minutes on a Dodge Caravan
She was there too, I made them sleep in the tent. Any time she says "My Truck" I remind her it is on loan for 3 years. Still trips me out when she drives up to the house. At first I am all like," Damn that's a sweet Bronco".Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
Then I realize it is her. I am sure I will get used to it eventually.
Nope. You won't.
Can you adopt me ? Just need a Saab 9-3 aero convertible.Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog
I’m 3-4 seasons on fouled blend doors on my jeep. Thankfully one of the fouled doors is right behind the glove box, twice a year i switch the door from cool to heat and back to cool in the spring and just vary fan speed and defrost to maintain comfortable temp.
It’s down to a 5 min job to swap blend door position. and yes I tried replacing actuators on both sides of dash to no avail, it’s a combination of overpowered actuators that strip out blend door gears and the System never calibrating correctly without a dealer reprogram.
Who was it that thought that plastic gears and small electric motor shafts spinning through nylon "bearings" was a good idea? Probably the same crew that thinks plastic coolant junctions in hard to get to spots are ok ..
Yeah the driver's side worked totally fine. Thanks for the heads up with the temp sensor tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Timber, compared to the other ones location this one sucked :p
Standard fare rotor and pad replacement
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Turned into a 3 hour battle to get a caliper bolt off. PB blast, pipe wrench, breaker bar, breaker with pipe. Knurl grip socket, size smaller knurl grip. Nothing.
Finally smashed a size 14mm extractor attached to the breaker bar with pipe as leverage.
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Other side took 15 min.
I’m gonna take the front differential leaking pinion to the shop…
Badass. My favorite camping trip every summer is just my daughter and the 40. Feels good to enjoy the fruits with someone who watches you swear repeatedly wrenching on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog
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Noticed this while taking out the Christmas trash this morning. At first thought it was an axle seal leak but appears to just be a blown shock. Of course I figured that out by squeezing the dust boot that was full of oil! Almost 60k on this set of Eibachs so I knew it was coming. Guess I have another Christmas present on the way.
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Check off another milestone.
I have a Subaru driving dynamics question. Driving my fiances forester on patchy snow and ice was uncomfortable. Dappled sunlight, so one wheel on wet bare pavement, one on hard ice, one in slush and so on. Anyway, in those areas the car was unsettled. Felt like it was overly aggressively shifting power around to each wheel or something, and basically like it was starting to break loose. This on straight sections being very steady on the throttle and steering. On fully iced over sections, it had reasonable traction, I could brake hard without ABS coming on, turn and accelerate harder than necessary, generally it felt good when all 4 tires had similar traction. I've mostly driven true 4x4s in conditions like this and never felt handling like this in those. So what's causing it? 2014 forester, manual, Nokian wrg4's in good shape, around 500 pounds of people+gear in the car.
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