Ask the experts

Thought this test seemed pretty legit: https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-...ciency-tested/.

Only chain I’ve ever snapped was a kmc sl. But it was definitely bad shifting toward the end of a race for which I wasn’t physically prepared. My Gx eagle chain did only last 500 miles this last time before reading between .5 and .75, which seems bad given I wipe off, clean and lube regularly. Part of what drew me to experiment w/ queso. So far so good.


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OK SWCO experts, chime in with some suggestions (I don't want to create a separate thread for this question):

I'm heading to Durango next week to ride for four days, and I want to ride something new on the way down from the Boulder area. I figure the best route will be down 285 to 160, or across on Hwy 50 since it's currently open through Gunnison for the time being. Any recommendations? I've ridden just about everything to the east of Monarch Pass, plus everything around Gunnison and CB. Looking for a 15-20 mile ride, not afraid to pedal a little bit if needed.

South fork has good riding to the north of town. Proper DH but the climbs aren't easy.

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

My experience is limited, and involved some worn parts, but I think that'll work. Non-Shimano 12 speed chainrings (and chains?) are, according to Wolftooth, wider than Shimano. So, SRAM chain on Shimano should be fine, you just might not get the most out of their fancy shifting. I had some issues going the other way, running a Shimano chain on a non-Shimano chainring. Post up your results, regardless.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...367b95c8bc.jpg

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Rode 1:45 w the SRAM link in the chain didn’t notice anything, so seems fine. Will keep riding it this way until chain dies I think.


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Reverb experts: I want to swap an above the bar left side remote like this:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...ctamajig-a2-b1

With a right ride remote like this, mounted under the bar on the left side:
https://planetcyclery.com/rockshox-r...hoCtQAQAvD_BwE

What's involved in removing the hose from the remote, and reinstalling? SRAM manual seems to show just pulling the hose off with pliers, but that seems wrong.

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Originally Posted by smmokan

OK SWCO experts, chime in with some suggestions (I don't want to create a separate thread for this question):

I'm heading to Durango next week to ride for four days, and I want to ride something new on the way down from the Boulder area. I figure the best route will be down 285 to 160, or across on Hwy 50 since it's currently open through Gunnison for the time being. Any recommendations? I've ridden just about everything to the east of Monarch Pass, plus everything around Gunnison and CB. Looking for a 15-20 mile ride, not afraid to pedal a little bit if needed.

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Always wanted to get down and do this one: https://www.mtbproject.com/trail/700...isco-trail-879

Maybe ride it and report back? :D

That actually looks pretty solid....

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Originally Posted by skaredshtles

Always wanted to get down and do this one: https://www.mtbproject.com/trail/700...isco-trail-879

Maybe ride it and report back? :D

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Yes, please

Yeah moto trails down there are fun. I guess pedaling them would be ok. We have a moto race in that area this weekend. Hope it rains. I hate dust.

I was going to say Monte Vista is on the short list for when I can mtb again.

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Originally Posted by smmokan

That actually looks pretty solid....

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I rode it 5ish years ago. It's totally sick. Tough climb with a decent amount of pushing, ripping descent, rad lake at the top. There's a parallel atv trail you can use to loop it that might be an easier climb, but I just went up and back.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Reverb experts: I want to swap an above the bar left side remote like this:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...ctamajig-a2-b1

With a right ride remote like this, mounted under the bar on the left side:
https://planetcyclery.com/rockshox-r...hoCtQAQAvD_BwE

What's involved in removing the hose from the remote, and reinstalling? SRAM manual seems to show just pulling the hose off with pliers, but that seems wrong.

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Bump. Anyone?

I found some comments online that said the SRAM hose attaches to the remote with a threaded barb, so just unscrew the remote from the hose to disconnect. Accurate? Reusable hose "threads" or should I trim the hose to get a fresh section before threading the new remote back in place?

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Bump. Anyone?

I found some comments online that said the SRAM hose attaches to the remote with a threaded barb, so just unscrew the remote from the hose to disconnect. Accurate? Reusable hose "threads" or should I trim the hose to get a fresh section before threading the new remote back in place?

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You'll have to cut the hose to thread in the new barb: https://youtu.be/f1__XVOjkvo?t=80

Quote:

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Bump. Anyone?

I found some comments online that said the SRAM hose attaches to the remote with a threaded barb, so just unscrew the remote from the hose to disconnect. Accurate? Reusable hose "threads" or should I trim the hose to get a fresh section before threading the new remote back in place?

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I have only done this twice. Both times I cut the existing hose and utilized the existing hard ware. The stuff all looked like new.
I had tons of issues with reverb. None of them were with the cable or connections.

Thanks!

And just to confirm: I should cut the hose in order to get new clean hose to thread into? Or is that only when moving to the 1X trigger style remote shown in the video? (video mentions that that trigger remote has a longer insert)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1__XVOjkvo&t=80s

I am just moving from an above-bar plunger remote (left hand side) to a below-bar plunger remote (right hand side, mounted upside down, below the bar). So the barb insert should be identical on both remotes.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Thanks!

And just to confirm: I should cut the hose in order to get new clean hose to thread into? Or is that only when moving to the 1X trigger style remote shown in the video? (video mentions that that trigger remote has a longer insert)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1__XVOjkvo&t=80s

I am just moving from an above-bar plunger remote (left hand side) to a below-bar plunger remote (right hand side, mounted upside down, below the bar). So the barb insert should be identical on both remotes.

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Yes, just unthread it. You’ll see the barb is only 5-6mm long, just trim a few mm off of your old hose with a razor blade, making sure it’s a clean square cut. This will ensure your new lever’s barb threads in with a clean solid fit.
It will be obvious when you unthread the old one.

Thinking of adding more smashy-smashy to my 2016 Patrol. How terrible (or awesome) of an idea would mullet-izing a bike of that era be?

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

Yes, just unthread it. You’ll see the barb is only 5-6mm long, just trim a few mm off of your old hose with a razor blade, making sure it’s a clean square cut. This will ensure your new lever’s barb threads in with a clean solid fit.
It will be obvious when you unthread the old one.

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Thank you!

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Originally Posted by Huskydoc

Thinking of adding more smashy-smashy to my 2016 Patrol. How terrible (or awesome) of an idea would mullet-izing a bike of that era be?

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Don't. You'll jack the BB sky high, slacken an already slack STA, and shorten the reach a bunch. Fucking up the geometry is going to more than counteract any bit of improved roll over you get from the bigger front wheel.

2016 isnt really that slack of a seat angle(75.5?). Newer offset 160 29 fork and wheel will slacken ha/sa about a degree to 64.5ha/74.5sa. Add in a flush bottom cup -1 degree headset and that would put the ha roughly the same as current enduro bikes at 63.5(my meta am stock is 63.7) and add a touch to the sa(almost 75). Bb will be raised 5mm but your fromt axle will be up enough to cover that. If the reach is good , maybe it huskydoc was between sizes and upsized on that 2016, moving the seat forward can add another degree to the seat angle. A few "ifs" but maybe it adds up. A number of benefits if the fit works

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Just barrow or buy a used cheap wheel and see if you like it. All the internet marketing and forum geek propaganda about millimeters and slight angel change is just bible talk.

^^expert

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Anyone know if regular hydraulic brake hose is compatible with Reverb dropper remote hose?

I need to replace the hose on a Reverb and have some Shimano size hose that looks like it'd work. (Don't need connectamajig fitting, just barbs at ends)

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Originally Posted by Cocximus

Ultrasonic cleaner had some diluted simple green.

Chain was definately on the long side. This is on my road bike, so no suspension travel.

I used KMC X10.93 for years commuting with little maintenance. Any reason not to get the x11.93? Are the Shimano higher end chains more durable?

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Could be the simple green.

Simple Green + Ultrasonic Cleaner + Time = Hydrogen Embrittlement = Breaky-Break.

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Originally Posted by XtrPickels

Could be the simple green.

Simple Green + Ultrasonic Cleaner + Time = Hydrogen Embrittlement = Breaky-Break.

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^Agreed. This is well documented in the bike industry, not only will regular Simple Green create the embrittlement, it will also take the finish of most surfaces.
Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner is what you want to buy. It use to be called "Simple Green Aerospace" but the label/name was intimidating and did not sell, so they rebranded it "Extreme".