Anyone else get some today...?

This south swell must have given you something to ride the past few days. It is solid up here this morning.

Thursday was a bit wild but fun with head to well overhead 14s swell and probably a bit of every period down to 6s mixed in. First wave I got launched but soon recovered and found a few really fun sections. Mixed session but ended with a good note.

Today that swell had backed down to 12s and maybe around 6'. SW bumped up to 2@18. This corner of reef does pretty well with that sort of combo and the right tide. Not really a secret and that made it crowded (20 plus) this morning. Other spots had way more lump and sickness and here the wind was blowing cross off. Not very consistent but really fun waves when they came through. The SW seemed to be building and was breaking head high by the time I left.

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That looks nice!

It's surface down here, hb pier was maybe chest high, but still nothing great. I'm currently pretty busy, and it wasn't quite enticing enough for an early afternoon surf, especially given the hb airshow crowds. If it looks nice tomorrow am I might have to get in the water.

The exception was Lowers, which looked great on the cams. Uppers looked chest high at best, but Lowers was easily head high and clean. Lowers just seems to pull in everything, including a substantial part of the oc surfing populace.

Went to the beach wit the family Sunday. Not expecting much surf, with the buoys on Saturday evening showing 2@10 from 310 and 2@14 from 210, with both forecast to back off. Surf at the nearby reef was very much head high, and a bit more than that, on the sets, Mostly fro the south. But gosh, that was a shock. A new NW just started to show around 3@17. Unfortunately we have some wind issues this week. Still, it feels good to have autumn in swing.

Solo point waves on my birthday. Stoked.

what a gift. happy birthday.

I surfed solo this morning but it was junky and spooky.

Happy Birthday!

We'll see if this delivers down here. Itvis surface, and should be this weekend, but fingers crossed we get head high Cottons soon

Cheers, guys.

More today. Not perfect by any means, but overhead and good fun.

Surfing is so good.

Today looked pretty good at the HB pier today, chest to shoulder high and fun, but I was a bit too busy.

The area near the pier was mobbed, more so than usual. It looked fun, but honestly pretty ordinary for October. I think in a normal period it wouldn't have been this packed.

I should have a mid-morning window tomorrow, and I'm going to try and take advantage. Let's hope the coming swell delivers for this weekend and early next week, I REALLY need a good Uppers/Cottons session.

I caught a midday session at River Jetties yesterday. It was nice to get in the water after a couple of weeks.

It was chest high, maybe shoulder high+ on the bigger sets. It was a bit walled, but there were a few fun corners to find. I surfed just below the rivermouth. Right in the river mouth there were a couple of really nice peaks, great Aframes, but they were packed with people frothing and it wasn't worth it, to me at least.

For the first time in a while, the Uppers camera looks really fun today. I'm hoping I can squeeze in a mid-day session, although realistically it will be Newport or HB. I would love to head down south today. Hopefully someone here can swing a Trestles session, because it (finally!) looks fun.

Wow, what a weekend.

One that is still going, if I can make it down this evening.

Saturday I surfed the Uppers/Cottons/Wires area. It was okay, a bit bumpy and shoulder high, but the crowd was sparse and I was able to pick off quite a few, some of which ended up being fun. I might not have driven down to San Clemente had I known it was like that, but I'm glad I did.

Sunday.....Sometimes everything comes together. Sunday was about a foot overhead, and glassy all day. It was almost as good as that area gets. Some of them didn't line up as well as they could have, bottom turn to a big swooping cutback, inside section okay but a bit soft, but even these were awesome. Some did line up nicely. It was crowded, but for the most part the crowd was spread out pretty well. I'm neither a particularly good nor particularly aggressive and I was able to get a ton of waves. After 2.5 hours my arms were noodles.

Sunday was the day I've been waiting for. I'm not sure if I have had a better day this year. When I can actually drive off the bottom and lay into a cutback with some gusto you know it is hero surf. Sunday reminded me again of just why I love this zone so much, I had almost forgotten.

I'm going to try to wrap up work early today, and maybe head down for an evening session. I was in the water yesterday from 1-330, and it was still fun when I got out, I was just gassed from so much paddling. Hopefully the wind holds off again. The Uppers cam is berzerk right now. Hope some of the rest of you guys are getting some of this.

Here are a few shots. As always, they don't do it justice, but they give a sense of yesterday.

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I did not surf over the weekend. It was my wife's birthday on Sunday.

Monday was fun. Combo of the south swell peaking around 3.2@17 and some NW windswell around 4@11. Surfed Old Man's and it was maybe a foot overhead and super fun on the bigger sets. Wind came up quickly and it made for a short session.

This morning we had a 9.3@17 from 305 and a 3.2@14 from 215. I headed up the coast with a a shortboard, a step up and a mini gun. Stopped at Scott's to watch for a while. 20 or so out. Big peaks but not really setting up the wall. So I decided to look around and stopped at the over look to Old Man's. It's not really a spot for these bigger WNW swells. It almost needs more west. The fog blocked it and no one was out, so I figured I check a few more spots and end up at Scotts.

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As I was checking out the surf (the fog was shifting and slowly pulling out) another surfer showed up. We slowly convinced each other to paddle out. I knew I was not keen on being out alone. It's hard to tell size from way up, but I knew it was big. It was also super clean. And the waves that broke nicely looked very nice indeed. Overhead, long, heavy things that were oh so glassy. As we suited up, visibility increased and by the time we were at the waters edge, it was clear. That felt nice. On the other hand, as we walked down from above the paddle out look like an even bigger challenge.

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You can paddle out, sort of around this wave. But you can get clipped by wide sets when it is a WNW. So the only option was to paddle out deep on the reef. There is a pseudo channel and a 40 yard sprint where you hope to hell you timed it correctly. We got lucky. We made it out, off the shallow part of the reef pretty quickly but still had to finish with a spring over a big set that I had no idea where it might throw.

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My first wave was epic. It felt like an easy paddle in, and not too big. It stood up as I stood up and that's when it showed itself. At least 4' overhead. Probably quite a bit more. It happened quickly. Four huge sweeping turns. Speed. Down the line. It was at first fast as hell, and I was flying down the line and then it slowed and I threw out my first turn, thinking it looked like this would be the end of the wave, and as I came through my arc, it would start to stand up again, and rope ahead down the line and I would set my tail, pump and go not to get beat and beat by it, only to do this again three more times before popping out well over a hundred yards away. It was an insane opener.

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The next few we great waves and on any other day would have been notable. But none as long, or as big. Great over head surf with some thump to it to be sure. At the very least, they all deposited me to a fairly easy return paddle to the peak. Jury the two of us out. A third paddled out but we never saw him. There was another wide peak, and maybe he got one of those, but soon I saw him at the base of the cliffs.

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Eventually I grabbed another big one. Ramp in and drop was sweet, but then I drew a too high line, and had a hard time turndown the wave as it steepened. For a moment, I thought I was going to get pitched and some how dropped a few feet where I was able to reset my rail and get down the beast. The next two turns were so of my favorite turns in the past few years. So much power and right under the hook of a well overhead and powerful wave. Again I got easily back out.

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A few more otherwise fun waves. I was stoked I found someone that wanted to surf. This place is a long board spot most of the summer. Not a lot of folks surf it on the W and NW and even fewer when it is big. There can be a lot of consequence for being in the wrong spot at the wrong time. I got lucky mid session. I was pushing how deep I could take off. We had seen a few scary awesome deep sets and I was playing with it. No way I would go on the bigger one we saw unleash on the reef, but a more simple 10 footer perhaps. I dropped in late on one and was too far behind to get on the face and had to go under. Lucky for me there was nothing right behind it. There was a good twenty second where I could have gotten trashed by a set.

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Then I got my second best wave. It was way way shorter than my first long wave. Maybe, maybe 50 yards. But I dropped into this thing, easy like. A simple ramp, and I drove right to the bottom, stalled and pulled into the a huge pit. Full barrel, I could see the curtain and thought for a second that I was not going to get out when I felt the spit hit. I flew down the line and sort of made two turns before kicking out. It was insane and for sure my best barrel since Bali.

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I think I got a few more before taking off late and behind a second time. I tried to get back out but I had timed this effort poorly and there were many waves behind this one. After about my tenth duck dive I called it and headed in. It had been a good session. While I did not really want to end on that, I had had an amazing session and never once took a beating. So I called it quits.

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These coast line was lit up with swell.

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After I went in, a few more people showed up. The crowd never exceeded three.

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It was still quite clean but a few wisps of on shore started as I put my board in the car. I headed back to take these pics and eat an apple. Most of these are taken from a height of about 50' above sea level. There was some size and heft out there today. And so so clean.

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My favorite shot.


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You can see in this pic why this spot is not very crowded on a big NW. The guy in the foreground spent the next ten minutes paddling. When I left he was still working his way out sort of in the "channel" lookers right but still duck diving waves. Full cycle. These wide sets can be big. The two further out were able to stay just deep f the peaks and paddle over the backs. That third wave set up huge on the reef.

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Best day of the season yet. Hoping Ricky's is a go in the morning.


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Nice Ott!

Maybe eventually I'll get in the water with you, but not in that size swell!

Let's get out and surf for sure. Start with a smaller day.

Yesterday was a bit smaller. Still fun out there. Thinking with the gale force winds forecast for today I might get some work done. Or go for a ride.

I also noticed the dead whale had moved about 150 yards south down the beach with this past swell. Soon it's gonna get snagged by the reef. Ugh. Get it while's it's good.

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Surf was about head high to overhead. While the swell dropped considerably (it was around 7@13 early) there were still a few plus sets that rolled through.

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The lines were also shorter but the shape was still excellent. It got crowded. When I looked from above there were none on it. Only six left when I paddled out. By the time I left it was me and two others.

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I hook these pics after my session. By then, this guy had it solo.

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Dead Whale Peak was working yesterday. Hoping that last swell has started the annual sand shifting.

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I typically don't surf here much in October when the NE magnets start to light up. But it handles the south combo way better than those spots so I was here the past three days and it was on fire. Monday's lump and bump made it not picture worthy but I still got great waves on Monday. Tuesday was by far the most exhilarating. Wednesday still had a bunch of punch but was way less terrifying. Just being an old man at Old Man's.


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Ott,

Those are a couple of great posts!

The photos and words blend well.

The shots in the first post look intriguing, until I read the description and see shots with a human for perspective. That day is out of my range. I can surf a wave like Cottons when it is pushing DOH, but I know the area well, and how to get in and out, and where to sit. From your story it seems obvious that this spot was quite a bit scarier than that.

It sounds like a great start to the season. It has been great down here this week, although I've been too busy to get in the water since Sunday. I might get in a mid-day session today.

I really need to stop looking at cams when I've figured out I won't get a session in. Cameras are great to get the report and an idea of the surf, when you MIGHT be able to surf at some point, but if you realize during the day that it is a no-go it doesn't help one's mental stability to look at clean, overhead uppers.

^^^ I know Old Man's well as well. Been surfing there for years. So I sort of know the challenges when it is bigger with too much north, so you pay attention. I think the biggest challenge was just timing a paddle out. If you came up shy under neath one of the sets, you'd be screwed. We paddled out deep on the reef, which means more of the in between stuff breaks, but when all the energy is drawing out, off the reef, if you get lucky, its a 40 yard sprint and you are in deep water. But it goes from knee deep to real deep real quick, so if you get one of those mid sized one's on your head, your pretty screwed as well. If not, its a quick out.

I also took my time and picked out the right waves. Easier to do that, and let some pass, when its just you and one other on it. A lot of the time, one of us was paddling back for a while, so you were solo for periods of time. It should also be noted, while it was big, it was so clean and lined up if really felt smaller than it was until you found yourself at the bottom of a bigger one. The two of us were on step ups (mine was a 6'7' rounded pin) and the three that addled out after us were also all on step ups and not mini guns. The waves had a ramp into the ledge, so extra length may not have helped. I also needed convincing to get in. We both did. And we got lucky. I for sure did. Easy enough paddle out, and a few notable waves and no beatings. Its the best session I've had in bigger, more powerful surf in some time. Which leads me to believe, you never know, so you should just go out and get some.

Wind the past two days has been horrific and has allowed me to catch up on some work and chores. Been pretty effefient, but thinking I might sneak in an afternoon bike ride.

Next week looks smaller, but light winds and good local conditions. And some sort of swell mix continues.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Long duc dong

Sunday was the day I've been waiting for. I'm not sure if I have had a better day this year. When I can actually drive off the bottom and lay into a cutback with some gusto you know it is hero surf. Sunday reminded me again of just why I love this zone so much, I had almost forgotten.

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Hero for sure; like Alta windbuff!

In the 10-15 years I've been coming down to crowd up your local line ups LDD, last Sunday - Wednesday was the biggest, glassiest surf I've ever had in SoCal. Not a breath of wind until Thursday. Thought about coming up to some of my old faves like Cotton's or Salt Creek, but didn't need to drive that far. San-O (Old Man's) was pumping. Rode my 6'-10 mayhem step up, 7'-6 firewire fish and 9'-0 mctavish. There was noticeably some girth to the waves. I don't think I've ever felt (at least I don't remember feeling) the push of the air in front of the wave from the wave hitting you before the wave actually gets to you. So insane; still buzzing!

Added bonus: I see dolphins every trip down, but I've never seen them do their thing where they roll into a wave, ride it and are hopping in and out of it as it rolls to the beach. So sick!

It was smaller this past week. The clean situation never really happened. It was clean enough tho with several small swells running. I think the SW was the hero this past week but we have more NW on the way. Unfortunately we also have a summer time wind gradient re-establishing.

Near the county line on Wednesday morning was the best surf of the week

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Fun enough out there. My goal this time of year is three or more sessions a week. I got three but two of them were really just staying in shape days. Wednesday actually had some legit fun waves tho. And I did get some coverups on Thursday but it was at this break that is essentially just a ledge that bowls and spits and quits.


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Dang, wish I lived as close as you do Ottime and could get in 3 sessions a week....I am lucky to get 3 in a month.

I did score a fun day at 4 mile yesterday. Left the house at 430 am and made it to Santa Cruz just after 7 am. Town spots we slow and filled in so we headed to 4 mile and found a wobbly but fun day. Stopped for tacos on the way back and made it home before 3. Home is in Sacramento so I am going to say it was an epic day, lol.

Looks like things pick up again later this week, I might have a case of the peak fever, call in sick, and give OB a go on Friday.

Checking in from Baja. Swell is on tap all week. Head high+ right point break. Attachment 504368

You win. Enjoy!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zhem

Dang, wish I lived as close as you do Ottime and could get in 3 sessions a week....I am lucky to get 3 in a month.

I did score a fun day at 4 mile yesterday. Left the house at 430 am and made it to Santa Cruz just after 7 am. Town spots we slow and filled in so we headed to 4 mile and found a wobbly but fun day. Stopped for tacos on the way back and made it home before 3. Home is in Sacramento so I am going to say it was an epic day, lol.

Looks like things pick up again later this week, I might have a case of the peak fever, call in sick, and give OB a go on Friday.

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OB on Friday and Sat AM was super fun. Sat had some real size pushing through on the outer bar sets.

This weekend was super good. Saturday morning was pure bliss size at the rocky ledge. Well overhead and juicy but in the fun zone. Rode my step up but almost found myself wishing I had the shortboard.

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6:50am quick shot as I suited up. I saw the waves and they looked killer but had to sack up to change into my wetsuit. It was in the 40s and a cool offshore breeze. So worth it. So many waves.


Sunday I thought would be smaller. I was very wrong. I was stoked to get on the shortboard but thought better of it and stayed on the step up.


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The big wave reef up the road was showing. Often once it gets this big, my favorite spots is over blown.

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6:15am pull out the phone while suiting up shot. This morning I did not hesitate at all. Just a friend of mine out and this was an average set. You can get a sense of size as he is paddling back lookers left. He had a great wave and there were eight of these before he was outside.


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While this place is mainly a right, the left was working as well

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Only shot of the right I really got. This was a plus sized set but not one of the bombs. A video would be better as he caught this thing at the peak and he is mid carve in a mellower section of the wave.

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This one just captures the mood of the morning for me.


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There were some smaller sets on Friday that broke great. But being on the inside could be scary at times.

Highlights of the morning. I was 1/4 on the bombs I tried. That wave was insane. I skipped twice off the surface on my way down from one of the fails. Got super drilled by the lip after making my drop on another. But the best moment was after the crowd showed up (there were 7 of us) and no one but me was at the peak when the bomb of all bombs sets came through. I negotiated myself just adjacent to the thickness, boxed up peak I've seen in some time. There was no way I could have touched those two waves but watching them just bend and contort and huck from feet away was insane. The third wave would have actually been an "easy" catch, but I was just awe struck and just watched. My second favorite moment was paddling back out when a big wide set hit and I executed the perfect duck dive just under the lip and came out way back with the wave ten feet behind me. To then feel the backward pull ten feet and dropped into a hole. Insane.

Such a blast. Really wished I was feeling faster, more ballsy and a touch more skilled on Sunday. Some of those waves were just insane. Some of the people I surf with, a few at least, are really fucking talented.


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Dude! Just reading that I'm scared! [emoji16]

My kids were talking about some kindness on tap for tomorrow

I bet today was another good ones. The storm that came through was not so windy so the sickness might have not started. I booked an appointment with Hyundai so I was down in Seaside. Unfortunately the dealership did not have the part on hand they thought they did. Fuckers. So I need to go down there again. OTOH the dirt in Fort Ord this morning was as about as good as it gets.

And I'll get to surf again tomorrow which looks a lot cal er than today.


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