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Base Corolla Eagle GX retails for $215. The slightly fancier model with electric windows (Corolla XO1) sets you back $385.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
I'd rather stick with the Shimano equivalent, the $165 Fiat Panda XT.
Both suck in different ways but the Panda is better for sure, best 4WD cube ever made :D
Sounds like manual steering and a 4 speed stick to me. Step up to Di2 or AXS on an Ebike with DHF double-down tires so you can bitch about tech support instead of admitting you are just a basic yeti cooler spiked seltzer Tacoma driving YouTuber cool kid
Jesus. A Fiat over a Toyota?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
This does explain a lot...
:D
Well yeah, but part of the reason I don’t have the $$$ is I’m saving for a MTB and a gravel bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Look to Wout, MvDP, and Pidcock…There’s no reason to limit oneself to one kind of riding!
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Wait, what? I'm either too poor for good shifting cause I'm not running AXS or I'm a rich kid with a Taco full of Yetis, can't have it both ways... Since I drive an old Subi and had to settle for a knockoff Grizzly I'll go with option #1 and continue grinding cable-actuated gears with the rest of the destitutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Anyway, appreciate the input on this. Those cassettes are clearly made of butter and maybe I shouldn't expect to get much more than 1000 miles out of them. For less than half the price of XO1, which apparently isn't even good enough according to Simple, I'll stick with Shimano. You couldn't pay me to ride 12-sp SRAM with the massive jump between the last 2 cogs. That shit may be OK in the flatlands but I couldn't make it work out here.
Nostalgy from the homeland, those Pandas were everywhere when I was growing up. My grandma taught me how to drive in one. You could forget about the clutch when shifting and it wouldn't complain much, great learning vehicle. Shockingly reliable too, hers is probably 30 years old by now, she wasn't kind to it, and it outlasted her by a solid 15 years. Impossible to get in trouble with them as they were too fucking slow. And they straight killed it in the snow.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
This is funny... I've *never* noticed any massive jump between gears. That's probably because I'm pretty much ALWAYS in the 50-tooth. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
No bike shifting is good enough for me. It's all expensive mechanical garbage. Soak it in oil and put it in a magnesium case. then attach it to a 300cc 2 stoke engine. Then it works great
Just under 3000 miles on this one and it's still on the first chain, which still hasn't reached the first wear indicator on the new style gauge. I'm pretty blown away by the durability of the chain, especially.
My conditions are nearly always very dry. I use a dry-ish wax based lube (No-Toil moto) and do a soap brushing of the chain roughly every 100-150 miles.
I'm only 63kg and usually spin at 95+rpm on climbs. I also let off for 90% of my shifts because I learned to ride before index shifting was ubiquitous.Attachment 380786Attachment 380788
My slx 12spd snapped off like a tiny twig. Hanger is straight as an arrow. Deore on the other bike steel cage bends super ez. Only shifted good the first week, pre bend despite being new level pricey. Bent a tooth on a near new cassette and delicately managed to support that cog and bend the tooth back. Broke the slx chain last week. First chain ive broke in a while. All those things can happen in a flash by chance but its abnormal for me , especially all in half a summer. Always playing with the barrel adjuster with 12 spd too. Small window with chain length, b tension, chain line. Deore and my cheap steel sram 12spd cassette i think might be steel painted lead and labelled steel. 12 spd and wide range is asking a lot from a drivetrain when derailleurs were already solidly classified as love/hate.
Im about ready to try a hydraulic shifting kindernay internal geared hub. It doesnt weigh much more than deore 12 spd. Costs 3x as much but it looks like it will far outlive 3 deore groupsets. Im struggling to find a negative with them, especially if the maintenance and longevity rival a rohloff
https://kindernay.com/?utm_term&utm_...EaAnfqEALw_wcB
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We’ll, no bubbles. I was jogging down the stairs and it sounds like something is loose in there…Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
This is going to produce some funny responses:
https://youtu.be/g7Hlj6qzx0I
50 or 200 hour still fix or should I just buy a new red bike that is hybrid shimano and sram so I can be a Dick to everyone?
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I noticed (and was entirely annoyed by) the big jump on shimano 11 speed stuff. Don't notice any of the jumps on any of the 12 speed stuff from either brand.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Definitely buy the red hybrid.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schwinn-K...e-red/55376960
21 gears bro, I can climb a wall with that thingQuote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
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Yup. Same experience here. The big jump on the 11 speed shimano drove me nuts and I thought I'd hate the jump on the new 52 tooth sram but it doesn't bug me at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
The last jump on the 46t XT 11 speed cassette was terrible, but the 42t and 40t ones were fine.
I like Shimano better for 12s ratios, but the 50t Sram is fine. I don't like the 52t.
I go with 11-42 over 11-46 Shimano cassettes. It both avoids the big jump and lasts longer as a result of having only one alloy cog vs two.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I'm not sure if this is a dumb question but is a pedal spinning almost too well an indication that it needs to be repacked with grease? I'm running clipless Saints now and they spin for a long time when I give them a flick which is different than my Oneup flats and the XT pedals I've run in the past. The saint is a lot heavier so there's more rotational mass but I want to say I heard somewhere that spinning too freely indicates they don't have enough grease in there, but I could also be totally making that up. They don't feel gritty or loose at all and they're not creaking so I have no other reason to be concerned. Basically I'm just wondering if I should buy that stupid proprietary tool so I can service them or if it's fine to leave them alone like I've done for all my other shimano pedals for the last like 10 years
Any tips for bringing contaminated pads/rotors back from the dead?
Got a bike with Saints that had been sitting for a few years. Brakes have no bite at all, and very little power, like, old rim brakes grip the wheel better. I've done a full bleed, and lever feel is good, there just isn't friction between the pads and rotors. I've already cleaned both pads and rotors with isopropyl alcohol and sandpaper, still no good. Anything else I should try before I try to track down new pads?
Alcohol and sandpaper is my routine also. Yeah get new pads they might just be shot.
I've had some luck with burning the pads with a torch, assuming these are metal pads. Not sure what that would do to resin pads but I'm guessing they could handle the heat as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
New pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
^^this. New pads and torch the old ones and put those in a container in your truck along with the half used and spares in case you get somewhere, like the pRk, and your current pads are worn out
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Looking at maybe getting some Light Bicycle wheels.
Was thinking vanilla, not Pro, Recons, 30mm ID. DT Swiss 240 EXP hubs with 36t ratchet. 28 straight-pull bladed spokes and brass nipples.
200lbs, going on my Guerilla Gravity Trail Pistola I got from Smmoken. Replacing Flows and claimed weight is about a pound lighter. When summer isn't 400 degrees and as smokey as having my head in a campfire, I ride a lot of smooth Missoula area trails, but do hit rocks on occasion (Blue Mountain, etc), and I'm sure I don't do it "lightly" or "cleanly" or whatever. Would also travel with this bike. Very little lift served.
Am I crazy, or is that beefy enough?
Do they throw some extra spokes in the box, or am I fukt if I somehow break a spoke.
Also, the Bonty carbons don't look too bad and the local shop for them is maybe 100 feat away, but there's no stock on them, of course.
(Boost and microspline, if that matters)
I was *not* a fan of these on my LB wheels. Fortunately, when I broke the spokes, the wheel stayed true and I could keep riding. And they were a PITA to source. I ended up having the rear wheel rebuilt with standard DB spokes.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn
Any particular reason you don't want to go with traditional J-bend spokes, 32H? And skip bladed spokes.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn