"Let's make a suspension design that sacrifices favorable kinematics and still can't fit a water bottle."Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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"Let's make a suspension design that sacrifices favorable kinematics and still can't fit a water bottle."Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
...So if they were to move the lower pivot up the top tube a bit, then it would get to be rising rate (progressive)?
...and/or shorter eye to eye and move the mount down the down tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by jakezee
I think I get it.
Yes, moving the main (swing arm) pivot higher or more forward while keeping the other pivots in the same location would make it more progressive. However, moving the main pivot also changes the rest of the kinematics as well (anti-squat, anti-rise, etc.).Quote:
Originally Posted by jakezee
If you only wanted to change leverage ratio, then you’d go about it from the opposite end - move the point where the shock attaches to the main triangle lower, without moving the main pivot at all.
gee its almost like people can't tell fuck all about a bike by just looking at it !
True! Your brain is going to really start hurting well before you successfully visualize how all the links are moving and where that puts the instant center at various points in the bikes travel.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Other than single pivots it’s pretty hard to estimate kinematics just from looking at it (you’re not going to be able to look at a bike and deduce whether it has 80% anti-squat or 120%).
single pivots are a bit easier: if it looks like an early 90’s cannondale Super-V, you have too much anti-squat, if the main pivot is concentric with the bottom bracket - like an old Rotec - you have too little anti-squat.
I am just taking the piss out of every person who has ever said " that bike looks yada yada "
I can usually figure out how something mechanicaly works but no way I can tell you how its gona handle when we are talking mm of pivot placement/ link length and i don't think anyone else can eitehr
Trying to pull this back off engi-nerd suspension rate talk.... just heard my new Hardtail is supposed to be shipped early June (much to my surprise) so far.
So collective question which MTB bike should I sell to keep under the D-1 (like N+1, but in this case D=Divorce).
1) 2014/15 Pivot 429sl v2 non-boost, RS World Cup 100mm fork, XT brakes, XT/XTR mixed drivetrain, RF Next SL w/ carbon Stages PM, Reynolds Carbon wheels, Carbon bar, Spec dropper, XC/light trail tires. Thinking $2200, might be higher but there is a cable rub mark under the BB from brake line that I'd of course disclose.
2) 2010 Ti Lynskey Pro 29 w/ paragon sliders QR front/rear w 1 1/8" steerer tube, w/ even older Fox RLC 100mm, custom Ti seatpost or Thomson, Stans Crest wheels (non carbon), running SS now, with XTR race brakes circa '12, alu bars/thomson stem. Thinking $1000, but that might be some emotional attachment.
Actually have a bit of an attachment to both, and ride both relatively frequently. Already have a '19 Sworks Stumpjumper ST and ordered a Spec Fuse Expert for fun HT/screw-around bike that I'll probably switch between SS and geared and 29x2.6 and 27.5x2.8s (buddy giving me free 27.5 plus wheels). Want to standardize/modernize a bit on Boost and don't plan on much XC racing for the foreseeable future.
Prices seem reasonable? WWMD for selling one or maybe both? Ok off to get my legs ripped off for Tuesday night worlds
Sell the Pivot now to a newb Covid rider who doesn't know about boost/non-boost and just sees CARBONS! I think you can get more like $2500-3000 depending on where you live. It will tank in value in a year or so. Plus your SJ has a lot of overlap with it.
The Lynskey won't draw the suckers... err, newbs... so not really worth the effort of selling, especially if you're emotionally attached.
I think the Pivot can fetch far more with that spec. I sold a 15/16 5010 C with SLX/XT, RS Gold fork, dropper and nothing else special for for $2500...Quote:
Originally Posted by VTskibum
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
The lynskey is classic and worth keeping. The pivot is dated and worth selling.
Yeah, definitely sell the pivot. It's not like the difference between stumpy and "lighter FS bike" is that big unless you do crazy epics with the pivot. Much bigger difference between classic HT and "freeride" HT.
It may be a classic, but good luck finding a fork for it when current one shits the bed.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Throw a nice rigid Ti fork on there. Problem solved. And then the bike is even classic-er.Quote:
Originally Posted by evdog
Yeah my fork is probably already on borrowed time! I do have a 1 1/8" carbon Niner QR fork for rigid. Not quite as classic as a Ti fork, but damn does make it light.
Pretty much sold on passing the Pivot on and keeping the Lynskey.
Rigid titanium? Like a Jones?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Who else made them? I have an old White Bros carbon rigid on my old race bike. The Niner one was a really nice fork but kinda ugly.
Just a quick Google search shows a bunch of companies are making them. There's a few options that are suspension corrected and have options for a 15mm thru axle, but still have a straight 1.125" steerer.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Here's one that looks ok, although I kinda think ones with a welded crown look cooler. https://www.murucycles.com/ti-forks
Attachment 373579
While Ti fork would be good, actually think the Niner in white works pretty well. Have a white Fox RLC when this isn't on it. Not sure what Ti fork would really match with the twisted tubes (which is a huge gimick btw), but otherwise this frame is super light and rides nicely.
I’d forsure sell the pivot! Will fetch good dollar these days
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I think you could get Lynskey to weld a modern headtube on it. Big ass ht and stretch out the bike
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That Lynskey is dope and deserves a spot in the stable.
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You need some boone twist cranks on that thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by VTskibum
Suppose the recommendation for super limited edition cranks from 20+ years ago does make sense in this thread. Used to run hand polished old XTR 960 that match the brushed frame look, but are challenging to source odd sized rings. Not a bad idea to check w/ Lynskey if they'd upgrade the HT as well.
In case you want to sell that Lynskey - what size is it?
I think he shouldn't listen to you. This isn't a steel pipe BMX bike. Builders don't want to swap out new modern HT on old bikes. To do so you would have to cut out the top and down tubes. What would be the point of that with those twisted tubes? Also the expense. Yeah go ahead and ask Lynsky but I'm pretty certain I'm on track.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Most of the time they get rewelded at the dropout to fix them. You can so its an option. You do youQuote:
Originally Posted by simple
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Que? What does a headtube have to do with a dropout? Opposite sides of the frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Maybe you are trying to say that builders replace dropouts often? They do. Much easier to snip out and reweld a dropout than a headtube. In that case it wouldn't need much time in the jig to make sure alignment is good. Totally different tubing, prepping, and welding effort but I can see how it might appear to be similar.
Haaa too funny. Condescending douche ya cant help but laugh
https://www.ticycles.com/payment/ser...nsion-titanium
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$300 to increase stack height without cutting any of the original frame. $500 and up plus $100 refinishing for headtube replacement. I'm guessing additional charges for angle changes. Plus when you try to add that to your cart, that service is currently unavailable.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
I wasn't being a douche but ok. A headtube extension is not even close to the same as swapping out to a new modern headtube and changing to a modern slack geometry. Keep trying or admit I'm right. Maybe your term "big ass headtube" doesn't make your point clear. DumbassQuote:
Originally Posted by grinch
That was the first thing that popped up on a search. It can be done. Those extensions would carry a lot of the load put on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Conundrum
Also lynskey doesnt just go buy ti ritchey logic dropouts from qbp and whip together a frame. Their dropouts are custom fabbed. It might have a different blend to be less malable because its a dropout but idk. It most certainly needs to be aligned and deal with a lot of force put to the weld because its a small welding surface.
I bet some ti builder even has a lugged headtube option that could slide on to the downtube and headtube. If thats the case itd be ez to modernize the bike with lonfer reach and slacker ha and justify the $, especially if the bike has sentimental value. I'd send an email to Chris Dekerf if Lynskey wont do it. Im pretty sure Dekerf does such things
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You have no idea what youre talking about. Just trying to prove im wrong. Condescension doesnt cut it budQuote:
Originally Posted by simple
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Judging by your last post I think you are the one with limited knowledge on what a builder is willing to do. Keep guessing but it would help if you actually talked to a builder about the process. Stick go Legos BTW, that is more your speed.
Sick burn brah
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With all due respect to that Lynskey (which is definitely a sweet frame), that thing is nowhere near awesome / classic enough to warrant a bunch of fuckery with welding on a new headtube. That's deep into "just buy a new frame" territory.
Prove me wrong. Email him
https://www.dekerf.com/frame-repairs-modifications/
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You email him and get back to us. I bet the cost will be in the range of just get a new frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
I'll go talk to my titanium bicycle welding friend about yet another dimwit who thinks that modifying an old bike is super easy. He gets people who want a modern bottom bracket or a different seat tube diameter beyond 27.2 all the time. His answer is to tell the customer to just deal with being out of date, get an adapter, or build a new frame. It is never let me chop the old tubes and Frankenstein in new tubes. These aren't Legos kid.
No way Dekerf would touch that Lynsky with a 50ft pole. Those twisted tubes would make it a nightmare to fixture to properly remove the current headtube. Sell the POS to any sucker that will take it, it's not a classic worth putting effort into.
Yes a builder could replace the headtube...no I don't think you'll find a competent builder that would take it on.
Haaa youre doing you again.
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