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I’ve got several sets of the non-Rs. They’ve been solid across a bunch of years and bikes. The Rs are a steal, I’ve got a set in my cart as we speak. Only problem I’ve ever has is with them slowly working loose and bunging the BB spindle, which means replacing the BB (otherwise, they just keep coming loose). It’s not like it’s a major problem and could have been due to operator error, but I try to check the crank bolts whenever the bike is on the stand.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Good to know. I actually did have to re-tighten the cranks after the first couple rides, though I was assuming things had just loosened after initial setup, which isn’t uncommon. I’ll make sure to check them periodically.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Edit: just reading more, looks like they need to be tightened to 61 Nm, which apparently is a ton. I’ll just make sure they’re super tight.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7db750cf3c.jpg
Trying some 27.5x2.8s and maybe mullet w 29x2.6 up front. Threw a GX 12spd on the HG/11spd hub and no problems shifting w Shimano SLX was a nice surprise not to have adjust much!
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1 US Ton = 8896 NewtonsQuote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
1 Metric Ton = 9807 Newtons
I don’t have a torque wrench calibrated for that value.
I thru my knee and elbow pads in the automagic washer, definatly smells like an upgrade ... should have done it years ago
If you have 1-ton weights available you can just hang them off the end of your 6.9mm- (imperial) or 6.2mm- (metric) -long hex wrench, that will get you 61 Nm. Shouldn't be too hard for a reasonably handy home mechanic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Yup. Same here. Been periodically dunking them in a bucket of soapy water over the years thinking that’s better for them. Finally said fuck it and threw them in the wash. So happy.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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Installed a new Chris King headset. Really highlights how bad Cane Creek is. Never thought I'd actually notice the difference.
I’m genuinely curious… is it just how smooth it feels? I’ve always been in the camp said that cane creek 40 and above were ‘fine’.
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Originally Posted by Name Redacted
Yeah, smooth and quiet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Good, practical advice here at Sprocket Rockets!Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddball
I'm in that camp too, though have used FSA cartridge headsets more recently, just because they've been a good bit less than Cane Creek, and seem just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
I just ordered replacement bearings for Mrs C for an older CC Forty, where the original blue seal bearings were getting gritty after 8 years. New ones have green seals, haven't arrived yet - reviews on newer CC bearings seem mixed. We'll see.
I had a weird issue with one of my CC 40 headsets. If I tightened it until there was no play, it would bind. I took it apart and saw that the black anodize was missing from the top edge of the upper cup, which suggested that the upper cup was rubbing against the top cap when tightened enough. I am not sure whether the headset came that way or if the upper cup deformed at some point, but it was strange.
Hope headsets are a good option. Never had an issue, good price and you can buy the top and bottom seperate
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Just installed a GX 1x11 rear d on my full squish and wow, not a lot of room for error in the setup adjustments. There's about a 2-turn range of the b-tension where there's enough slack for full compression in the 46t while also maintaining a tight enough chain under no compression in the 9t. Oh and also the derailleur only clears itself by a mm in the 9t.
Im seriously considering a kindernay hub. Adds about 1 1/3 lbs and is costs about 3x as much. My tire combos can vary in weight as much as that and it should last atleast 3x as long. Derailleurs suck and can disintegrate in a second, same with chains. My 12spd shimano shifts super smooth but setup is at the fine line between chain length and b tension and any cable stretch it needs tuning. 9 and 10 speeds could be set and forget for months if you didnt hit anything and you werent searching fir ultra wide range. We've maxed out on derailleur tech. One of these kindernay hubs , thicc cog and chainring and a real chain and just ride your bike. Keep an extra tensioner and some links in your pack and youre covered. Especially with an emtb. Screw waiting for gearboxes
https://kindernay.com/products/compl...waAvQlEALw_wcB
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the thing with a chain & sprockets is that nothing is more efficent in terms of drag,
while the Kindernay is a planatery hub and they have some drag , a couple of germn tourist were riding thru from AK one with a rolhoff hub which was slower just coasting which may matter less in an E-bike app
Keep in mind if anything fucks up you are sending it away for repair which happend to my buddy riding to/ from tiera del fuego, i forget which japanese hub it was but he sent it away twice and in the end they said it was beyond the capabilities of the product, he was somewhere in South America at the time
ended up converting to a der
Good to know. Your buddy probably had a shimano internal geared hub(alphine?). Ive heard of rohloffs doing close to a million km's without issue. Also thinking one of those. I dont need the weight and small gap in gears the e14 offers especially for emtb. Need to research it more. I think rohlof have an e10 or 11.
In trail mode the tourque sensor means way less shifting. Just push a little harder or easier and the assist adjusts. Thats another reason to get one of these hubs. I consciously try and shift when i can or use other gears on the cassette so i spread the wear. I end up wearing out 2 or 3 of the cogs way before the others. I like the wide range. Faster gear for hitting jumps, bike park, or commuting and easiest gears for extending the battery and super steep climbing. Current wide range systems are maxed though. Buddy just picked up a chinese 11-50 11spd cassette for 80cad on ebay. Looks ok, aluminium carrier with a mix of cogs. Ill wait and see how it shifts and wears. Could provide a cheap option. 9 or 10 would probably be best(beefier chain, cogs and more sensible gear spread) but then those derailleurs arent going to accomodate an 11-50.
Im curious about the drag now on the kindernay and rohloff for my steam powered bike. Good reports on durability/problem free with rohloff and kindernay so im reasonably confident on reliability
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yeah I think bro had one of the Shimano hubs more suited for a commuter app, the hub came on a recumbent bike that buddy had bought for a good price used, he loaded up some gear and did a 55000 km tour which is the "outside the design parameters of the product" part. Right now most of the bike is worn out & fucked up so bro is looking at major parts replacement, I got a kick out of him saying " yeah i changed that chain in Buenos aires and a recumbent takes 2 & 1/2 chains "
talking to the cherman tourer in brief conversation he came right out and said the roloff had more drag compared to traditional gears just coasting fully loaded down hill
the guy who owned Red Shred's in Williams lake was an early adopter of the Rholoff for mtn biking he would run it on a Hardtail and he was definatly freeriding, if it facked up send it away for service
Damn, that counts as wear. Emtb is going to wear that shit. At the price for these hubs its best to procede cautiously. Havent given up on it yet though. The convenience is there.
Zerode made a high pivot dh bike with a shimano alphine hub in the middle of the pivot. One chain from the chainring to the alphine hub/pivot and another chain fro. The alphine hub/pivot to the single cog at the rear hub. So no chain growth and a simple efficient gear box in that hub. Great design ahead of its time. The problem was the shimano alphine hub. It disintegrated fairly soon. Often thought someone should revisit thst design with a rohloff especially high pivot dh bikes and emtb's being all the rage atm
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So, I wasn't super impressed. First day, I still noticed some discomfort on outer edge of my hand, and felt like I was getting a bit of a hot spot on the big knuckle of my thumb. Second day, more of the hot spot. I didn't get claw hand, but could definitely feel some arm pump at the end of both days. I'm thinking the hot spot is from over gripping the grip, due to the slight rotation. Overall arm fatigue *might* be slightly less than normal but it's hard to say. I think my actual hands would have felt better with my normal ODI Elite Pros. Anyway, they're not bad per say, but they're not the game changer that my buddies made them out to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Damn, thats too bad. Youre last try had me thinking anyway. I always have my hands over the outer edge. Might be hsrd to retrain my self to not straddle the outer edgeQuote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
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Disgusting. I used to ski w a dude who NEVER WASHED HIS SKI CLOTHING. Tram rides involved this putrid stench coming from said bro. Finally was like man you gotta wash that shit. He thought washing gore Tex would damage it. Amehzing [emoji849]Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Do they take any specialty tools like the hubs?Quote:
Originally Posted by Name Redacted
I say F-you to the washing instructions and throw my pads and gloves in the wash every 1-2 rides in a delicates bag. I'm certain that I tear pads and throw them away before the inserts get damaged by heat. Life is too short to wear stinky gloves & pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
I'm going to email the guy who runs RevGrips and see if he can make any recommendations. He's really responsive. It might be that I need to use a combination of a different grip shape and firmer elastomer.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
I had hosed down my pads many times but I didnt figure they washer would work cuz in my head I figured they would just float on the water but it worked
I air dryed them
I have a Dakine apex pack that I have also hosed many times but could do with a could do with a wash, its a big piece to stuff in the washer
I see the race grips just come with one medium elastomer. The others have like 5 different elastomer options. From what ive seen a lot of people seem to go one stiffer than medium, so between the stiffest and medium. Not sure who uses the medium soft and soft settings
With pads, gloves , helmets i alternate what i take in the shower and shampoo lather them and just hang to dry. Occasionally do liner shorts but i like to alternate with them running through the washer every 2nd time. I have 2 half shells and 1 full face and soon a convertable ff/hs and i take them in the shower after every ride. I have extra cheek pads and liner pad for my d3 ff
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I have a few pair of liner shorts which I thro in tthe washer after every 2nd wearing and hang to dry. On bike tours I would have 2 pair, one I wear and one would be washed in a sink & bungied on top of the panniers to dry on the bikeQuote:
Originally Posted by grinch
jerseys usually washed every other time in the washer
gloves are tougher I 'm using a leather glove now, the sweat isnt good for them and neither is washing, I think I need to wash and then treat right away with snow seal ?
I've been washing leather gloves pretty frequently and it doesn't seem to affect them at all, they feel stiff for a minute after drying but go right back to normal after a bit. I'm sure they don't like the water but I rarely manage to make it through a full season without trashing them so it works out pretty well. I don't condition them with anything. Nice to be able to wipe my face with the back of the glove and have it be only 50% salt.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Who has one of these incoming?
https://absoluteblack.cc/images/_kat...ley-cage-9.jpg
Attachment 379915
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I was going to pull the trigger but at $700 I thought they were a bit on the cheap side, wouldn't want my bike to feel like I'm using bargain-level parts...Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
Looks super cool. Idk what it is but adding 3 to my cart
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So with my $700 Di2 Dura Ace rear derailleur, you want want me to remove a piece, void my warranty, and add a replacement $700 piece. Making a super duper $1400 derailleur?
Fawk that. But I want one.....
Got home to a new set of PD-M8100’s, a High Above Dark Matter tube strap from Evo and my mechanic finally had time to install my Bontrager DropLock lever with dual dropper and rear lockout . The Izzo is much happier climbing with a firmish rear compared to the full open for the last couple months
Attachment 379977
Attachment 380022
New item for the world’s slowest build. Going on a Honzo SS...... sometime.
Bought a new XT derailleur to replace the XTR I wrecked in Downieville.
Of course the first time I ever have an XTR bike I destroy something within the first month or two. This is also the reason I had always intended on getting an XT bike…don’t have the cash flow to be springing for XTR replacement parts all the time.
Giving steel a shot https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c6f2e165c2.jpg
Trying to think what that is? Some nice shapes on the front triangle, pivot hardware and links look super clean clean
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XTR shifter and cassette are where it matters, if any at all other than few grams. XTs shift greatQuote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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