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Feels a little soft (that's what she said). I'd be worried about destroying rims but it depends on your terrain. By hard, do you mean rocky? If so I'd go firmer. Another option/precaution would be a Huck Norris if you want to keep lower pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
If you’re looking for something on the cheap, I got a $300 wheelset built up with SRAM 900 hubs from VeloMine last year. 29” Boost, 35mm IW. I’m digging these hubs. Rims were by Fratelli, feel decent for an aluminum 35mm IW, and the build seemed good but I had a shop double check tension on everything after I got tires and short shakedown rides.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
anyone installed a PNW Puget 1x dropper post lever lately? The lever I got is quite a bit different from what's in their instructional video. I can take some pics but just curious if anyone has done it recently. The post and lever install to the bike fine and the cable goes to the post just fine, but how the cable is intended to attach to the lever is somewhat unclear (the end it goes in is obvious, but there are 2 small pieces that don't appear to attach to the lever anywhere, and I'm not sure what is intended as the anchoring mechanism from the cable to the lever)
Thanks, I'll check out their site.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
Cheap is good.
Was going to try Magura MT7s but stock is severely limited right now so going Shimano. Anybody see a good thread mixing XTR xc levers with trail calipers, 9100/9120 mix? I know the Germans like to mix the xc lever with Saints but curious on more info.
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which lever?Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
the "puget 1x" is what I ordered and apparently received. just looks nothing like the one in their instructional videoQuote:
Originally Posted by grskier
e: nvm, works like the loam. sweet
Why?Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
Other than to be more German-ish.
The only thing 9100(XC) levers offer is carbon blades which WILL break in a fall. That's why Shimano (finally/thankfully) stopped putting them in the trail versions.
If you must have carbon you can always buy the blade itself in Shimano small parts and install it in the 9120 MC.
I rode in Italy with an Austrian guy who told me a long story of his experimenting with Sram lever swaps. In the typical Me/Shimano guy fashion, I was all, “Shoulda just gone with Saints, brah”
Austrians (ie Germans) don’t understand humor as a form of communication.
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Doesn't the Race lever still not have servo wave? That's an actual functional difference. You'll lose some power going to those but get a shorter stroke and more consistent lever feel.
I've seen it theorized that the servo wave mechanism ends up side loading the MC piston a bit and causes accelerated wear, which contributes to the Shimano bite point randomizer feature, but I haven't experimented with nearly enough pairs to know how true that is.
Any DVO experts in here? Still waiting to hear back from DVO, but I think I broke the OTT on my Diamond. It was riding like shit on slow stuff two day ago. Felt like a basketball for a front tire. High speed it's normal. I went to check OTT today so I gave it 1/6 of a turn clockwise and it kinda popped like it was stuck. Now it spins infinitely in either direction. Still has the 6 click per full turn, but there is no end point and it feels like it has almost no OTT when riding.
Is there any way to ghetto hack this by taking the air cart out of the fork, adjusting OTT by hand that way, then putting back together?
Because I can and kind of want to try something different. Mostly to get rid of the Servowave function for better modulation (rid the on/off feel) and yes, some to have Carbon levers (reduce cold sapping in low temps).Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Shimano lever and Magura calipers seems to be another popular mix...also amongst the Germans.
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Can someone explain how GG has ‘21 170 36s when Fox specs the ‘21 36s only at 150/160?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Because it’s just an air shaft swap?Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow 'n Steady
(A guess)
And manufacturers work with suppliers all the time for proprietary tunes, why not lengths as well?
Most likely 2020s.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow 'n Steady
I ordered a Smash a few weeks ago and they “upgraded” me to a 2021 36 170. States exactly that on my receipt. So I guess maybe it is/was a proprietary length like rideit said?
My friends who ride The Smash have both said they prefer 160 on their bikes, so I was planning to try it at 170, with the knowledge I may end up dropping to 160 at some point. But I had been wondering why it was the only ‘21 170 36 I’ve seen out there since they dropped.
I’ve never ridden a fork at any length and thought, “maybe I’d prefer this if it had less travel...”
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Ha! I’ve never ridden anything above 150 before...so that very well may be the case for me too.
Yeah, Fox isn't selling 170mm 2021 36s aftermarket, but they do non-standard lengths for OE business all the time. It's just a matter of installing a different air shaft, like rideit said.
*Dons tinfoil hat*
Fox is limiting aftermarket 36s to 160 mm as a way to sell more 38s?
All that makes sense.
I can kinda see their reasoning, as you increase length (given the same chassis) you increase flex, it’s the nature of the beast. But (for now) you can still purchase a 170 air shaft to make what you want, which would still be cheaper than a 38.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Yeah, ever since last year (?) the 29er 36 could go up to 170mm with just an air shaft swap. Fox is just probably trying to steer people towards the 38 now because a) it costs more and b) they will get less people complaining about creaking.
BTW, anyone hoping to get '21 DHX2 from GG, they told me their delivery has been delayed significantly. I switched to an EXT (ordered separately).
Dammit! How recently did you talk to them about the DHX2?
I talked to them Monday of this week and they said ‘21 fox shocks were delayed for a currently indeterminate period of time.
EVERYTHING from Fox has been delayed for an indefinite time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow 'n Steady
Nikki emailed me Monday this week saying they were delayed. She did offer up a discount on an 11-6 instead, but I wanted to try an EXT. EXT-USA is saying about 4-5 week lead time, which matches up with my Smash frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Probably stupid question but my search skillz sux: when using tokens in a Pike, whats the general rule for psi? When adding tokens should psi go up or down?
Theoretically down.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowday
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
Tokens create a more progressive spring rate, ie., it ramps up more as you go deeper in the stroke.
IOW, you can go lower pressure without bottoming out.
Cane Creek 40 ZS44/28.6 EC44/40 Headset Allow a taper fork as does WOLF TOOTH LOWER HEADSET CUP EXTENDER iirc.
You do change the angles of the bike by raising the front end though.
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Is a Maxxis Maxxgrip compound an improvement over the Maxxterra compound on a front tire, in dry/rocky/dusty conditions? More grip? Or is it more fragile and/or wears out faster?
I'm looking at the Minion DHF in 27.5 x 2.5 WT EXO casing, FWIW.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I think you are both too soft for sure, but only if you ride rocky stuff and do not enjoy replacing rims.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
I actually bumped up to 23/21 psi and it's pretty rad.
Maxxgrip is a softer compound.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I got that. What I'm wondering is: what would that, softer compound do for me on a front tire in dry rocky conditions? Any benefit or is it just gonna shred knobs and die quickly?Quote:
Originally Posted by NW_SKIER
It will wear faster and be harder to pedal. It is a better tire for wet
Thanks. Sounds like not a good choice for the high desert / Sierra dust and rock.
I remember that a 27.5 fit in a 26 fox 36. Does anyone know, or able to check, if a 29 with a dhf 2.5 size tire will have clearance in a 27.5 fox 36 ?
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