Tecnica ZeroG Tour Pro - 2018- 9 boot

I have and dig haute routes; i use em on tlt6’s though, so not able to comment on zgtp.
Otherwise totally satisfied although I do occasionally wish I’d gone for the skimatics though, can’t help being curious.


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Hey Greg!

Studying the Haute Routes, it appears as if the rear lever has a chance of clearing the tour lock on ZGTPs when in ski mode.

Not a big deal if it doesn't, but I'm still curious. I think you're in 26.5s?

I'm waffling. The packability of the Irvis is indeed tempting. BTW, a buddy who owns the Irvis told me that there's no interference with his F1 walk mode latch. Probably OK with ZGTPs.

... Thom

They don't interfere.

Irvis on my 27.5's
Attachment 324903

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Originally Posted by mall walker

you using them with the ZGTP? what size boot you in?

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I was using them with the old Zero G Guide Pro and Backland Carbons, due to blown out ACL last spring I haven't used them with the new ZG Tour Pro. 26.5 in all boots.

Reports on the net of the dyneema stretching and having to be readjusted after first few uses? I didn't think that dyneema stretched but maybe everything has to work in. Any real world experiences?

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Originally Posted by zion zig zag

Reports on the net of the dyneema stretching and having to be readjusted after first few uses? I didn't think that dyneema stretched but maybe everything has to work in. Any real world experiences?

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I'll bet it's the knot settling in.

Spectra and Dyneema slip quite a bit, and in the climbing world, a triple fisherman's (as opposed to double fisherman's) is recommended.

... Thom

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Originally Posted by zion zig zag

Reports on the net of the dyneema stretching and having to be readjusted after first few uses? I didn't think that dyneema stretched but maybe everything has to work in. Any real world experiences?

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I didn't need to do any adjusting since they come stock sewn.

I also use the Irvis hybrid and love them. What I was told to do that works quite well is to fit them to the boot and leave them overnight to allow for any stretch. Then check fit again and tighten if necessary. After that, just leave where it is - I’ve never had any problem with them coming remotely close to popping off.

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Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un

Hey Greg!

Studying the Haute Routes, it appears as if the rear lever has a chance of clearing the tour lock on ZGTPs when in ski mode.

Not a big deal if it doesn't, but I'm still curious. I think you're in 26.5s?

I'm waffling. The packability of the Irvis is indeed tempting. BTW, a buddy who owns the Irvis told me that there's no interference with his F1 walk mode latch. Probably OK with ZGTPs.

... Thom

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Thom, just checked and the Haute Route lever is fine with my 26.5 Zero G Tour Pros, clearance is about 8mm at least.

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Originally Posted by gregL

Thom, just checked and the Haute Route lever is fine with my 26.5 Zero G Tour Pros, clearance is about 8mm at least.

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Thanks, Greg!

Wondering if anyone is having an issue similar to mine in the the rivet / interface between the cuff and shell is rounding out and developing play? I have roughly 20 days on ZG Tour Scouts this year and the plastic around the shell has worn down which has caused there to be some "slop" in the flex of the boot (can see a gap in this rivet now). Is this a common problem? Happening on both the left and the right boot. Disappointed given otherwise love them.

I didn't have this problem on my scouts with about 40 days of 1/2 inbounds 1/2 bc. Nothing yet on my Pro's with a little less than 20 days.

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Originally Posted by jwe

Wondering if anyone is having an issue similar to mine in the the rivet / interface between the cuff and shell is rounding out and developing play? I have roughly 20 days on ZG Tour Scouts this year and the plastic around the shell has worn down which has caused there to be some "slop" in the flex of the boot (can see a gap in this rivet now). Is this a common problem? Happening on both the left and the right boot. Disappointed given otherwise love them.

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I thought someone mentioned that issue emerging earlier in the year somewhere in this thread?

bump for jwe

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Originally Posted by hcrossing

See onedrive links below:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArPZh24xdyYpgol_eqeQyNMhiU5tZg
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArPZh24xdyYpgooAiaiZo-ApqN7lGg

As you can see fair bit of slop in them - I think it is more the rivets loosening that the plastic wearing away (still need to take apart and have a look)

The boot actually has a pretty poor design for the position of the cuff rotation axis. The two cuff pivots are not parallel in their rotation (especially the inside one) and don't align with the flexing motion/direction of the boot. This induces axial forces in the rivets (if they were parallel it would have shear force only) which loosens the rivet. I imagine they have them where they are for a reason (more natural motion or something) but not the best for durability. Frustrating when you spend nearly $1k on boots and they don't last and no real option to fix them easily (why not face fastener style rivets like Scarpa??)

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Originally Posted by swissiphic

bumping for jwe

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exact same issue - thanks for reposting and apologies for missing that earlier in the thread

anyone have any idea if this should be covered under a warranty or is considered normal wear and tear?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jwe

Wondering if anyone is having an issue similar to mine in the the rivet / interface between the cuff and shell is rounding out and developing play? I have roughly 20 days on ZG Tour Scouts this year and the plastic around the shell has worn down which has caused there to be some "slop" in the flex of the boot (can see a gap in this rivet now). Is this a common problem? Happening on both the left and the right boot. Disappointed given otherwise love them.

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Post #s 680 and 681 from this thread follow. I'm not sure if this describes your situation, as you're reporting a visual gap.

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Originally Posted by hcrossing

The cuff rivets on my boots have a fair bit of slop in them now after about a months use (look like they are about to snap). Would be so much better if they used screwed fittings, going to have to make my own cuff pivots now (lucky I have a lathe..)

Screws in the walk mode have also come loose but picked that up before they fell out...

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Originally Posted by couchsending

Any way you can post a video of this? The way these boots are designed it's actually really hard for the cuff pivots to develop slop. Traditionally with most boots the rivet is what holds the cuff and lower together but also is what the cuff pivots around when in walk mode. This is why a lot of walk mode boots develop play over time is the softer plastic is rotating around a metal rivet which tends to ovalize the plastic and you get slop. The last two generations of ZeroG as well as the present generation of Cochise have a slightly different design to try to eliminate this. In the mold the lower has a bit of a bushing on it so that the cuff rotates around the bushing (that's plastic) instead of rotating around the rivet. The rivet holds the cuff and the lower together but the cuff doesn't rotate around the metal rivet and you don't get ovalizing and then play.

I'm wondering if your cuff rivets just weren't pressed quite hard enough in production or something. Honestly I've never seen this happen and know quite a few people that ski these boots every day of the season and have for close to 2 years now.

Everyone wants adjustability but then complains when screws loosen... If you unscrew the walk mode screws to flip the female piece and add that 1* more forward lean you need to make sure you add more loctite to the screws or they will for sure slowly unscrew themselves. That's why this year in the box there are extra sets of screws that already have loctite on them. It's some pretty bomber loctite as well. I would strongly suggest not using a drill to try to unscrew the screws, you're almost guaranteed to strip them. I speak from experience.

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Any word on any changes planned for the zgtp for next season?

Wanna buy a pair; wundrin' if it's worth waiting for anything newer, shinier and/or fancier.

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Originally Posted by swissiphic

Any word on any changes planned for the zgtp for next season?

Wanna buy a pair; wundrin' if it's worth waiting for anything newer, shinier and/or fancier.

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new color (orange/black) as I recall, so 'shinier' is in play.

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Originally Posted by N1CK.

new color (orange/black) as I recall, so 'shinier' is in play.

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Yup, also asked some Tecnica athletes and they confirmed. But if you're looking for something in the 1kg boot range you might want to wait ;)

No substantial changes swiss

fwiw I went with the Petzl Irvis (not the hybrid, the full steel pons) which fit perfectly with the fully automatic system (my ZGTPs are 26.5/303mm). they're nice and sharp and hopefully will hold up to my dumbass abuse. we'll see tomorrow.

e: they work like a charm.

Your comments got me nerding out, and I came across this interesting post on metals from Dane (Cold Thistle):
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011...ss-or.html?m=1

... Thom

Liners: stock ones are good everywhere but pinky toe/6th toe where I need a serious stretch. But, these fuckers are lasted. Any method tips for really stretching that area? Already cooked them with toe caps. Need to bring in the big guns. No, I'm not looking for alt liner suggestions.

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Originally Posted by Andyski

Liners: stock ones are good everywhere but pinky toe/6th toe where I need a serious stretch. But, these fuckers are lasted. Any method tips for really stretching that area? Already cooked them with toe caps. Need to bring in the big guns. No, I'm not looking for alt liner suggestions.

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Have you punched the shell in the problem areas? There's not much point in stretching the liner if there's nowhere for it to go once you put it back in the shell.

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Originally Posted by gregL

Have you punched the shell in the problem areas? There's not much point in stretching the liner if there's nowhere for it to go once you put it back in the shell.

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Yes indeed - this is solving for post-punch. It's definitely the liner that's the issue.

Take the liners out of the shells and put them on with thin socks. Use a silver Sharpie to mark the points that are pressuring your foot. Use a broom handle or something about the same diameter as a stretching tool; it helps to stabilize it in a vise. Heat the area(s) you want to stretch with a heat gun but be careful not to melt the tricot/vinyl top layer, then stretch away. Your bootfitter should probably have done this as a matter of course when doing the punches.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gregL

Take the liners out of the shells and put them on with thin socks. Use a silver Sharpie to mark the points that are pressuring your foot. Use a broom handle or something about the same diameter as a stretching tool; it helps to stabilize it in a vise. Heat the area(s) you want to stretch with a heat gun but be careful not to melt the tricot/vinyl top layer, then stretch away. Your bootfitter should probably have done this as a matter of course when doing the punches.

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Perfect. Thank you.

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Originally Posted by Andyski

Perfect. Thank you.

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On an alpine liner there is normally a thin vinyl protective layer covering the bottom - heat this at the edge until the glue becomes soft enough to peel the vinyl back, stretch the side of the liner, and put the vinyl back down before it cools completely. You can usually gain another 1/4 inch of room that way. (In an extreme case you can cut the stitching as well)

Note: ZGTP liners don't have this layer, as it adds weight.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gregL

On an alpine liner there is normally a thin vinyl protective layer covering the bottom - heat this at the edge until the glue becomes soft enough to peel the vinyl back, stretch the side of the liner, and put the vinyl back down before it cools completely. You can usually gain another 1/4 inch of room that way. (In an extreme case you can cut the stitching as well)

Note: ZGTP liners don't have this layer, as it adds weight.

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Went at it with the heat gun and screwdriver handle (broom stick ain't getting into the toes of these 24.5 slippers) last night and it worked pretty damned well. Required more heat and more force than I expected, but once I figured it out it was quite easy. Thanks again. Hope to finally get them out of the garage this weekend.

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Originally Posted by wasatchback

Yes. 13 across the board on almost all shoes. Every now and again a 12.5. I can wear a 12.5 Hoka but 13 is the right size. And yes a
28.5 with a heat molded stock liner and a heel width grind. They’re tight but that’s just how I like my boots to fit. My toes go numb at 40* regardless of the fit. I’d rather they be tight and ski better than have wiggle room and not feel like I had precise control of my skis.

They’re too small for long days but there aren’t many of those in my life.

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Originally Posted by hafjell

Just confirming this: you're a size 13 US men's in a 28.5 shell? Stock liner?

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Read almost all 35 pages of this post to see if anyone talked about sizing. I wear a 13 in Altra shoes and a 29.5 OG Maestrale RS (30.0 shell size). The 30.5's ZGTP are hard to find. With wasatchback's post, I am rethinking if a 29.5 will work. Is the ZGTP shell a 30 with 29.5 liner or a 29 with a 29.5 liner? Anyone coming from the OG Maestrale RS into this boot can share any sizing feedback? My local shop cannot get the boot...

Random data point. I’m 11 US in my right and 10.5 left and have 27.5. The left fit is perfect, the right is tight but ok.

What's the consensus on the liner of this boot, are most peeps keeping or switching out? It will be a dedicated tourer, no resort.

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Originally Posted by robnow

What's the consensus on the liner of this boot, are most peeps keeping or switching out? It will be a dedicated tourer, no resort.

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I’m using the stock liner, but it isn’t anything to write home about. I think Boissal already wore his out. It tours fine though.

Stock liner Tours great, skis ok. A tour wrap would be $$$, but I’ll probably wait til I wear the stock liner out. Hopefully by then there’s an 800 gram 150 flex touring boot that all of TGR love, and I’ll just buy those and skip the liner upgrade.

On the plus side, I didn’t have to mold it.

Stock liner was first stock liner I’ve didn’t hate. They weren’t very warm though. I have some intuitions now. Can’t beat those.

Hello mags. Seeking advice on the ZeroG line. Apologies if some of these questions have been covered.

I'm 5'11'', 190 lbs. I ski Cochise 130s as my inbounds and sidecountry boot. I'm an 11 US street shoe and size down to a 26.5 and punch/grind keep a tight fit because I have a really narrow heal.

I'm in need of a long distance touring/ skimo boot.

Couple questions-
-For anyone with Cochise experience, did you size up in the ZeroG? I'm thinking it is a no brainer to go up to 27.5 so that I can keep my toenails.
-How is the forward lean? I prefer a more upright boot that can be flexed into rather than being stuck in a forward position.
-Is there any reason to consider the Tour Scout? Better walkability? Easier on long days?
-What other boots in the category (narrow last dedicated touring/ ski mo) should I consider? I'm also intrigued by the S Lab MTN, but perhaps it is worth saving a couple hundred grams in the ZeroG?

Thanks all.

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Originally Posted by Kevo

-For anyone with Cochise experience, did you size up in the ZeroG? I'm thinking it is a no brainer to go up to 27.5 so that I can keep my toenails.
-How is the forward lean? I prefer a more upright boot that can be flexed into rather than being stuck in a forward position.
-Is there any reason to consider the Tour Scout? Better walkability? Easier on long days?
-What other boots in the category (narrow last dedicated touring/ ski mo) should I consider? I'm also intrigued by the S Lab MTN, but perhaps it is worth saving a couple hundred grams in the ZeroG?

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The sizing and last are nominally the same for the Cochise (assuming it's fairly recent) and the Zero G lineup (99mm). The Zero G actually feels a little looser on my foot due to a thinner liner. If you have a really narrow heel/ankle, going to a 27.5 will mean the boot is 2mm wider in the forefoot and a bit wider everywhere else as well, not exactly what you want. I would lean toward finding a bootfitter who can punch the toe to give you some extra length (assuming you are using a tech binding).

Forward lean should be the same as the Cochise, 13 degrees. The Tour Scout is the same boot mechanically, so identical range of motion, just a tad softer as a result of no carbon reinforcement in the cuff and a tad heavier. IMO the only reason(s) to go with the Scout are availability (Tour Pro is pretty much sold out everywhere already, we just sold our last 26.5 today) and/or to save $100.

S/Lab MTN is only relatively narrow at the forward end of the toebox, it's very roomy in the ankle and heel.

Hope that helps.

PS I wear a 10.5 US street shoe and use the 26.5 ZG Tour Pro with no length enhancement.

One anecdote re. Scout:

I found Scouts on sale last spring for like 2/3 the price of Pros. And since I knew I was putting aftermarket liners in them no matter what, I didn't worry over the small difference in shells since the liners would make them lighter and stiffer.

I've wondered if the shells of the Scouts might actually have a smoother flex than the carbonated ones of the Pro...?

6ft 2in / 185lb, ski fast and bend skis, and the Scouts have been great.

Chiming in to echo Norse, I also have the Zero G Scout, and have in no way wished for a stiffer boot. They ski circles around pretty much every touring boot I've owned and if not for the light liners (and maybe just general durability concerns, with the really lightweight buckles and such) I could see myself skiing them inbounds, especially in Europe or something. I find the flex plenty stiff and wouldn't want to go stiffer personally.

5'10, 185lbs, ski almost as fast as Norse but slower on the uphill.

I think the scout has a smoother flex.
Pro is stiffer for sure, also stiffer than a Cochise 130.

200lb.