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I was agreeing with you. I caught some guff here earlier for saying the same fucking thing. I'm sure it was out of context though.Quote:
Originally Posted by jfost
Edit: I bet almost half of those cavity back players play the AP2. It's a wonderful club.
That's why I really like the idea of those combo sets, or at least sets that are designed to change the forgiveness/workability ratio across the irons. I certainly don't have the same swing everytime, but I can hit a much more repeatable PW than a 3I...
http://www.golfsmith.com/product/300...h-steel-shafts
/\/\/\/\
Those made a shit ton of sense to me, and for the high handicapper, the cavity back to hybrid makes a shit ton of sense to me too.
guroo - haha, I guess I didn't catch it when you said it... hmmm, may have to try me some AP2's someday. I have Forged CCI's from a few years back - they sure are plain-jane but nice feel when well struck. I bought them thinking that the additional feedback would help me learn vs. something like TM Burner's... I am playing better than I ever did, but I'm still only a bogey golfer. Waaaaay less blowup holes than I used to have though.
edit: I think it is getting harder to categorize blade/CB's anymore. And as for the tour pros, their shit is bent, ground, shafted, and swingweighted to perfection anyway, so it may be a bit hard to compare to mostly off the rack sets. I had the golftec set analysis done, and I guess I was within spec for my CCI's and VR wedges, so we didn't change a thing loft/lie-wise.
For spook (these are specs on my CCI's, which I think are pretty "standard" lofts at least historically. many new clubs are stronger, like the TM Burner series and prob the RBZ's too) *********
Club Loft Bounce Offset
---- ---- ------ ------
PW 47° 9° 0.080"
9I 43° 8° 0.080"
8I 39° 7° 0.080"
7I 35° 6° 0.095"
6I 31° 5° 0.110"
5I 27° 4° 0.125"
4I 24° 3° 0.140"
3I 21° 2° 0.155"
2I 18° 1° 0.170"
(I don't carry the 2I)
woods are TM Superdeep in 9.5, and TM R9 in 19deg (5wd), wedges are 52/10, 56/14, and 60/6. Again, I am just a bogey golfer but got this setup looking to improve. It is working because when I bought this stuff a few years ago, I was mid-high 90's, now I am right around 90 most of the time and shot a legit 83 about 6 months ago. (I usually only get out for 9 so I don't have a real HCP)
Right, but the cavity backs that these guys use might not be appropriate for a 20 handicapper. I'm not saying that good players only play blades, I'm mostly saying that bad players shouldn't because they might someday be good. And that Commonlaw shouldn't worry about outgrowing his irons.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4matic
I've got some Nike Slingshots I've had for a few years and plan to keep for a while. They have a more classic look than the newer versions. Regular steel shafts. Graphite shafts feel weird to me on irons.
Went out for the first time this weekend, had a good time, man you really have to practice and know what to look for if you want to hit it decent.
Also to Spook, not too many years ago, when hitting the ball farther was getting so much emphasis, some of the sneakier companies changed their loft on their clubs 2 degrees or so, so instead of hitting a a 5 iron, you were hitting something between a 4 and a 5. And OH LOOOK, this 5 iron goes 8 yards farther than the one I have! WOW! So it's at least something to look at when you're buying new clubs. If you are hitting one better and it's going shorter, check the lofts.
My current clubs are kinda bladey, and I love the feel I get with them when struck well, but know I am leaving shots on the course.
And, much like skiing, I try to find what I will have the most fun with but golf just seems a bit different for me. I have a new urge to really get good at this game. It used to be a round every other week or so, moderately disciplined play. My sports analogies to tennis are probably old hat by now, but it is the one sport that I know the best: I used a smaller, less forgiving head as a youngster because I knew that if I got good enough, it would be an amazing feel and I would be able to do more with it. I never regret that decision and frankly still like my old 85 sq in sticks better than the new shit I demo. I plan to treat golf with the same discipline.
Old school dudes think any beginner should play a small blade type to progress faster. I tend to agree with that statement for the serious player and anyone that practices more than 1x per week.
The choice to hit blades or cavity backs should be made depending on your current ball flight and ball speed. A 6 iron with a ball speed above 120 can choose whatever they like for feel. People who hit the ball too low will benefit from any cavity back and vise versa, a high ball flight will really like a blade if they can hit it.
Many so-called cavity back designs, are really just more forgiving blades. Small head, virtually no offset ( offset can be another discussion entirely) and a more narrow sole. Cast or forged, the shape of the head and the amount of offset and sole width really determine flight.
You can buy a better game. Don't let the old school guys tell you otherwise.
No! DO NOT use the same swing for your driver as your wedges. Maybe the same type of easy tempo, but other than that those clubs should be swung very differently.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4matic
Also: where did you get that list of the top golfers and the iron style they use? Did it also list the specific clubs?
Greg Norman:Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeJ
"Having made that point, let me say that you should never intentionally try to swing the club in a horizontal or vertical way. Never try to fit your swing to the club in your hand. After all, it's tough enough to master one golf swing without having to manipulate a dozen of them. Just remember to narrow your stance. The clubs themselves will cause you to do the rest.
http://www.worldgolf.com/newswire/br...ng-Your-Driver
i seem to recall a similar conflict between various authors and instructors. some have said the swing should be basically the same for all clubs, some have said they are very different between driver, mid and long irons, and sort irons.
makes me a bit nervous because i can only practice with my 56* wedge here unless i go to the range, so i'm getting reasonably efficient with that. even if the swings are diffent, though, all the practice at home has definitely helped me slow my swing down and relax, which is the first thing i have to get past.
You hit the ball with your driver on the upswing. You hit the ball with your other clubs on the downswing (and it's not just ball placement making the difference). That's why you really have two different swings. Should they be very, very, very similar? Of course - but not really the same. I don't care what Greg Norman says - he had a different swing with his driver too.
Not to mention, show me a single pro golfer who doesn't have a shorter back swing with his wedges than a 3-iron or driver.
Fair enough. I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4matic
Good ol' 4matic. Vehement in his objections until someone who knows something comes along and corrects. Damn Orientals.
I don't think Norman's comments and TahoeJ's are actually mutually exclusive.
And TahoeJ's comments make me think I am hitting down on the ball with my driver. I impart backspin sometimes for god's sake. I squeeze my irons rather than sweeping them, so I am sure that is one added reason my driving fellates macaques.
You think the discussion I made was vehement? I chose to end it cordially like a gentleman. You're the thin skinned wimp that doesn't know when to quit. Ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by guroo270
Any drive will generate backspin, but if your drive is actually stopping dead or jumping back instead of rolling out then- yes, you probably are hitting down. No way that should happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by commonlaw
Total guess, as well, but- without grooves to impart backspin, compressing the ball downward with a driver means you have to be 100% square at impact or the ball will necessarily squirt out to the side, so now you've got backspin and sidespin on anything less than a perfectly struck ball.
That's why on driver you need to have the spine tilt to encourage the hitting on the upswing. Most players I observe have the ball too far back in their stance on driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by commonlaw
Just trying to get a rise out of you here, bud. I'm off to Philly. Enjoy my absence.
Yeah, its about that bad. Very little roll if any. Hitting down, not clearing hips and coming over the top = backspin and a loss of probably 50 yards (air and ground aggregate). Which is why my driving is so important to remedy. Hitting 250 with a driver, only hitting the fairway once in awhile so I may as well hit the 230 3 iron. I should be driving around 290 easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven S. Dallas
Tee the ball as high as you can , this will force you to sweep the driver .
this is where the superdeep really helps - with my old burner I would hit a few sky-balls a round, but with the crazy deep face that is almost impossible... I use a 2-7/8" tee, but barely stick it in the ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by skiballs
Yeah, or hit under it :) Need to use the tallest tees at the range.Quote:
Originally Posted by skiballs
High driver ball flight? Could be narrow stance, ball position, swing plane, loft or shafts with a low kick point. Irons? Here's what I'm using. Matches my newly acquired driver.
Attachment 117516
Think top spin forehand to the back right corner .Quote:
Originally Posted by commonlaw
I dunno, that's an awful lot of right hand...Quote:
Originally Posted by skiballs
j/k - nice analogy!
That's actually pretty apt and will give'r a shot next session.Quote:
Originally Posted by skiballs
thanks muchQuote:
Originally Posted by jfost
This site's really been helping me
www.revolutiongolf.com
you get a free video tip every day from a top instructor. Got one yesterday from Jim Mclean that fixed a fade I've had for years, my iron shots are 100% better now.
i'm sorry, but i'm not sure what this means. my last round i left my driver in the bag except to clear the huge ravine and 18 to clear water on one side and out of bounds on the other side. as it turned out, i was teeing off with my 4 iron and hitting it straight and as far as my partner was driving, which isn't saying much. i haven't practiced enough with my driver to be confident and there is very little rough to find your ball in. if you miss the fairway by more than a couple feet on several holes, your ball is gone.Quote:
Originally Posted by skiballs
was supposed to play this morning but switched to the afternoon to get another lesson on the driving range and a putting lesson.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewall
cool, i love sites like this. i also like the guy who does the video jug vids --Rickard Strongert
it's a tennis analogy... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by spook
ok. so trying to push the driver head out and over (releasing the wrists/forearms) coming up from below with the face slightly (or feeling) open? i had an instructor tell me something similar. he put a ballin front and to the right of the tee (if you were standing behind the tee) and told me try to hit the teed ball in that direction to make sure i was swinging inside out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tye 1on
Alright, fellow hacks, recommended a couple of drivers for me to sample. I'm a bogey+ golfer and haven't had one in a bag for about a decade, preferring the reliability of my three wood. Played last week and hit a buddy's TaylorMade Burner on a couple of holes and pretty much hit it perfectly the times I hit it. So I'm going to give that one a whirl, also thinking trying the Ping G15... And out of ideas thereafter... Suggestions?
Did the driver go farther than the 3 wood? How far do you hit the 3 wood?
In choosing a driver, hit a few and buy what you like with the knowledge that it will preform perfectly for you...... until your first bad drive with it. Then it will spit in your face.
I'm using a G15 with Project X 5.5 shaft. Meh.. Not that happy with it. It's all about the shaft on the new drivers. If you liked the Taylor Made get that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by PassTheDutchie
I usually hit the three wood about 230 off the tee; probably 260-270 with the Taylor Made. There's a shop down the road a piece and I'd like to hit a bunch, but it's been too fucking hot. Diablo Octane anyone? Cheap-cheap through Callaway pre-owned (I'm not going to buy anything new that I'll likely thrown in a lake by the end of the summer).
I have a Taylormade Burner Superspeed 2.0 10.5 degree $ 100.00 shipped .Quote:
Originally Posted by PassTheDutchie
I played 3 or 4 rounds with it .
230 / 270. Good. Just checking as most slow swingers ( you are not) hit it farther with a 3 wood. If you hit the Taylor Made and liked it, go there. I'm hitting a System 3000 that I found on the course and loving it. On sale now somewhere on the web for $17.22. Regular price- $25.00
I do not hit the driver 270.