Printable View
the apex 1 rd does have the right pull ratio but the offset pulley will not work well with a double. you will not be able to set b limit properly or have consistent shifting between both rings. I've seen it in person and it was bad. stick to the gx rd, or a used nicer level one.
Thanks Jamal -> that's the info I needed!
Then plan will be to get a GX for now, and keep an eye out for an older (NOS or used) X9 or X0.
speculating based on previous years and understanding that this year is different, when is your best guess for when the 2022 Fox forks become available?
2022 34 came out a little while ago. Rest of the fork lineup is unchanged.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
Anybody have a couple extra links of XT 12 speed chain left over from trimming one to size? Replacing the temporary placeholder GX drivetrain on the Dreadnought (derailleur is smoked) and only have one chain on hand right now.
e: nvm, ty!Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I'm a parts hoarder, I have a container marked 12s extra links, let me look to see if I have some Shimano in there. I'll look this afternoon.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I might have some too. I'll try to look this evening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I have a 10 link chunk, and a few 8 link chunks. They are either 8100 or 7100 (not every link is marked with model identification, but 7100 and 8100 are almost identical)
You guys are awesome.
8 links is plenty. Dee, PM inbound.
How does one size a coil spring? I just got a DVO Jade 8.5/2.5 Rear Shock. I also ordered a DVO 350lbs/2.5 steel spring. I assumed 2.5=2.5. However, the spring took a ton of work to get onto the shock (I had to compress it with zip ties). Yes, the preload adjuster was as loose as possible. Every guide ever shows things just slotting right on, so I assume I managed to get a spring that was the wrong size. What did I miss? What should I look for? I assume the "Total Spring Length", but I don't see those published anywhere.
Had the exact same issue with a Cane Creek Inline coil. Shop was kind enough to compress the spring the *tiny* amount required to get it on the shock body.Quote:
Originally Posted by davjr96
I know... not helpful... :)
It's helpful in knowing I am not the only person to face this. I got it on but just want to make sure nothing is gonna explode :)Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
I never had any issues...Quote:
Originally Posted by davjr96
Wheel building question for ze experts.
A rear Onyx hub recently landed in my lap and since a couple of good friends who ride A LOT swear by it I am considering putting it to use. My thought would be to get another Chinese carbon rim and learn how to put the thing together myself since I'm not in a rush and am curious about the wheel building process. How much wizardry is involved? I have no experience outside of (poorly) truing banged up Alu wheels and replacing the occasional spoke (see below for more on that). Will I spent hundreds of hours banging my head on the wall only to end up with a donut-shaped mess or can I have a reasonable expectation than the finished product will be rideable? Seems like a wheel stand is a must but I have the rest of the tools so there wouldn't be any major investments.
To give you a better idea of my skills with wheels (or lack thereof), here's a question: I snapped a spoke on my rear wheel, DT350 straight pull hub (wanted J-bend but there was no stock). I was looking at it yesterday trying to understand how to replace the spoke and couldn't for the life of me figure it out. Here's the issue:
Attachment 379381
Let's say you break yellow. To get it out you need to push it out of the hub flange. The head of yellow hits the next spoke on the same side of the flange (red) and doesn't come out. Fine you say, cut the head off. Sure, but the replacement won't go in either as it hits the other side of red. I could bend it but that doesn't seem ideal for a brand new spoke. The only option I'm seeing is to loosen the shit out of red and probably green (possibly even more spokes) then push them out of the way and create enough space to slide the head of yellow out. Seems weird to have to loosen 3 spokes on one side of a tensioned wheel for a replacement. What am I missing here, and based on the mad skillz I'm displaying should I take my new rim and Onyx hub to a shop for the wheel build? If that's the case, any recommendations in the SLC area?
Need some advice from the experts here…
I have a set of Enve M70’s w/ King hubs which we’ve had for probably 5 yrs but they were used for 1 season and since then have hung in our garage as an “extra” set of wheels. Recently I’ve been thinking maybe I should sell them.
But at this point am I just inviting one of us to suffer wheel failure immediately after selling? [emoji38]
And for the price I might get for them (thinking $850ish?) maybe it’s not worth it. I feel like I’m sort of taunting Murphy’s Law
New headset takes a month to order :(
If I want to replace my caged bearing with loose bearings are they likely 5/32? It's a fairly recent FSA headset. I rather not take it apart as that will fuck it up even more while I source the loose bearings.
I'm just here to say fuck straight pull spokes. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Wheelbuilding isn't nearly as hard as it seems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I find the hardest part is sourcing spokes. It seems every company has a different place that they'll list their hub and rim specs. You'll need both to size spokes. YMMV, but I like brass nipples and DT spokes. I've had great luck with both.
Tools...
You need a truing stand like you need a work stand. Yeah, you can do it without it, but it's a shitshow.
A dish stick can be handy, but isn't necessary.
A tensiometer is a handy tool for your first few builds, but after that I've hardly touched mine.
Splurge on a spoke wrench. I find the park ones, even the pro model, look good, but don't perform as well as the DT Swiss ones.
You're welcome to borrow my shit if you just wanna give it a try.
Also....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/72j8smgmom...lding.pdf?dl=0
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4db518c549.jpg
Spokes have a bit more elastic flex than you might be thinking and the fit in the hub is probably not quite as tight (or as long). So you should be able to flex the spoke enough to get it by without any permanent deformation (depending on the hole fit, you probably don't need to flex it at all). Disclaimer: I don't know that hub, it just looks that way based on the available length to flex the spoke. To maximize your odds push the spoke end as far as possible through the hole and then push sideways at the end/very close to the other spoke.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
IDK how a wheel build will go for you, that's a little more involved. Not a black art, but it can be a bit of a rabbit hole and if you're not into that get someone to build it for you.
X2 on flex / bend the yellow spoke. Obviously bend it as little as possible to get it to go through, but spokes can take a lot more bending and abuse than you might think.
They'll bend just like they did when the wheel was originally built. Have fun! I snapped a nipple on my gravel bike[again] and not looking forward to replacing it with brass due to tubeless mess.
Alright, bending it is, thanks everyone.
Youtube makes wheelbuilding seem super easy. I can smell a sandbag from 10 miles away...
Yeah, bending a little is fine. Just don't tie a knot with it.
Wheel building is mostly pretty easy, but if you're a perfectionist you can spend forever trying to get out the last bit of wobble (particularly if the rim isn't perfectly straight). Helps to have a sense of "good enough".
My ever loosening headset turns out to be a sealed bearing headset, not low end cage bearing. Bearings seem good. I tightened the cups with a press. I hope this is enough, dunno what else it could be