I mean, the 5.3 is pretty legendary for its reliability. I think the only thing you’d gain with the dodge is tow/haul and street cred in Calgary.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
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I mean, the 5.3 is pretty legendary for its reliability. I think the only thing you’d gain with the dodge is tow/haul and street cred in Calgary.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
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Geez. I thought there would a bit of love for a grease burner.
Alright, even though the Chevy isn’t our DD (03 taco and a cheap hyundai serve that), sounds like if I need to go bigger hauler, better to stick with a newer truck. Admittedly there is a bit of nostalgia for Dad’s ‘farm’ truck, but best leave the risk to someone else.
Thanks all.
I will vote for the Legendary 5.9 Cummins. Sure it’s a 24 valve, and not the 12valve mechanical, but still solid, solid powerplant. 5speed or auto? Double check the block casting and definitely say no to a “53”
The second gens rode pretty decent too for a truck. The back seat is damn near non existent though, so might rethink it if I had a lot of kids/passengers. How’s the body?
Oil changes and fuel filters are very easy maintenance on these.
All Cummins trucks are holding their value pretty well, so could always walk away from it easily if not the perfect fit or to step into a 4th gen.
No idea on the block casting, auto which beget the trans replacement 80000 km ago. Body is very good - any spot rust was taken care of about 5yrs ago, and none has reappeared.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
The rear seat would probably be enough for the daughter. We have Dad’s hound now, so with two big dogs, even the crewcab is kinda small for all three of them. But ya, that rear seat would be a no go if I was sitting back there.
Agree the ride is pretty nice for a diesel 3/4ton. Long bed does makes city driving challenging though, but that is not what a truck is for.
Anyways, don’t have to make the decision right away. Lots to liquidate on the farm that the truck might help with in the meantime.
Thanks again for the thoughts.
The weakest link in the Dodge is the auto tranny imo. Original equipment was underbuilt for the Cummins Unless it was built up upon replacement? If it was replaced @ 140, 000km's, at 80,000km, you're
basically half way through that one!
Wait. You mean the dog no longer has her own door???Quote:
Originally Posted by SoVT Joey
The 48re is a strong trans when serviced regularly. Like all torque flights they can suffer low line pressure if when the valve bodies wear out.
They can definitely be the weak link if ignored; especially if turning and upping the power.
BC, Glad the truck is sticking around for a while. Best wishes to you as you handle estate matters. It’s a lot to work on.
87,000 miles not so good, me thinks
I still have my other truck so she still has her princess palace, but the new one is an extended cab and the window goes all the way down. I just need to pull out the back seat and build her a platform. The never ending list of shit to doQuote:
Originally Posted by riser4
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Mall crawlin' .... Literally. This guy was doing laps around the parking lot at home depot
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2012 Tundra. Truck sat for 10 days while I was out of the country and now my wipers won't turn off. Internet says something about a relay or broken "park switch" possibly. The supposed relay is one of the ones in the fuse box that the user can't access. It's got like a permanent cover thing over it. Am I fucked? Pull the batter for a few hours?
well the easiest thing TO try is a reboot as oposed to asking a bunch of skiers with a dentisting problem maybe someone on an actual Tundra forum would have an idea
it could also be a issue with the switch ?? maybe you could try unplugging a wiper motor or sft like that ??
my suggestion is to just buy a new one, i really like my new Tundra
I don't know Tundras but there's no way a relay is permanently sealed. They're consumable parts. Find a way!Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
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That's a weird one WRG, I would unhook the battery for a while and try the reset first. Maybe something someone with a scanner could fix for you?
<p>
</p>Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater
<p>
Welp I let it sit for a few hours after cleaning every last bit of ice off the crevice between the windshield and the hood and the wipers started working normally again. I think since the wipers couldn't fully return to the bottom/start location the switch somehow got all confused. </p>
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It does appear that there actually are some relays on this truck that Toyota didn't want the owners to be able to fiddle with. There definitely is some weird cover over a secion of them. </p>
any time soemthing doesnt run try the re-boot then plug and unplug all the parts
if you got any spares try swapping till it runs
back out what ever did not fix it
but if you dont have parts order parts try to be nurturing and express some kind on sympathy to the end loser
but really you are an insensitive HW nerd and don't care and this is the part a lot of HW guys fail at
Kinda intrigued by the Scout Terra pickup. 500 mile range with the optional range extender gas engine. The site suggests a nearly 6 ft bed but it’s not clear if that’s the interior dimension. 2000 lb estimated payload. Torsten rear LSD standard. Optional front LSD.
Electricity is pretty cheap in my part of California. Hmmm.
Best $10k crew cab pickup for family camping trips, MTB shuttles house projects etc? Will also get some ski trip duty when we want more space.
Reliability is goal 1 but it will only see like 2000 miles/yr. We bought a second electric car and I think I want to sell our pilot for something cheaper and more utilitarian. Needs to tow our popup but it only weighs like 3500lbs.
High mileage first gen tundra double cabs seem like a good option but the Toyota tax is real. If I look at ford or Chevy any combos I should seek or avoid?
Also open to a sequoia or suburban if the deal is right.
For that use case I wouldn’t blink about going Ford or Chevy half-ton. They are reliable. I’m sure others will chime in with specifics, but I would avoid any early gen years and any turbo’ed engine.
A Suburban is a good thought. If you buy single owner it’s very likely you end up with something that was well maintained and lightly used. It’s a body on frame truck but most commonly used as a grocery getter status symbol…
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I think that a 2004-2006 Tundra would work great for your needs. My 2004 sees about 3-4k miles per year of fun and yard work and is at 200k miles. It isn't great at towing in the Colorado Rockies, but an occasional pop up camper trip should be very tolerable. Big back seat fits 5 comnfortably. Back window rolls down to accommodate 12' boards with the topper closed. I have a tall topper and can fit 3-4 bikes in the bed, which will be greatly appreciated driving to Moab this weekend in the rain and snow. Never any issues with my truck other than failing paint on the roof and hood, which has rusted and allows some leaking of water on the inside of the windshield. The neighborhood body shop wanted $7k to fix it. No thanks. I had an appointment at MAACO on Tuesday, but the sweet song of the single track siren called and I just couldn't make the appointment. I'll try again after spring break and share the estimate as this seems to be a common problem with this truck after 20 years of being ouitside.
Yeah, Tundras/Sequoias and Tacomas are notorious for life-ending rust or major repairs due to shitty windshield install that causes rust that you might not even see until it is really bad. This is a good reason to go to a reputable shop for windshield replacement and also avoid Safelite. Anyways...That said, I have a '09 Tundra and a '01 Sequoia and love em. Perfect for what you are looking for. Just look for frame rust and rust around the windshield before buying one. If you are worried about towing, get the 5.7L that started in '07. Much better power, but both have shitty gas mileage.
If $10k is the budget, buy the best 5.3 GM you can find in the config that works for you. Consult with El Chup on the particulars.
^^^ Heh. Guess I've spent plenty of time repairing old GM trucks....
Are you willing and capable of doing your own repairs? If not, an old "cheap" truck could be quite expensive to own. Better to pay a little more, buy something like a Sequoia or Armada / QX - - the big SUVs seem to drop more in price vs the pickup relative.
If you are going to repair shit yourself, an old GM product can be a decent option. They're all thirsty. The 1/2-tons usually have a 5.3, sometimes 4.8, both are fine. The 1/2 transmission is the weakest point in that vehicle, along with transfer case leaks (Google pump rub). If it's stock, it'll last longer - avoid someone's bro dozer.
The burliest option, and one that probably wasn't abused too hard, will be a Suburban 2500, 6.0 gas. Find a nice one and it'll last forever. It's a 3/4-ton pickup drivetrain with a Suburban body.
I can do basics but I don’t want to spend a lot of time wrenching. Mostly want something that is functional and near the bottom of the depreciation curve. If I have to spend a few extra dollars to have a truck I don’t think about I will but this will be a low mileage third vehicle so don’t want it loosing tons of value while parked.
No free lunch. You don't get to spend $10k on a truck and have neither maintenance nor depreciation. Wear items will need replacing. Brakes, shocks, pumps and so on. Good truck tires >$1K. See what you like. Buy the one that looks like it is in the best condition and gives you the feels. Roll the dice.
There is no right answer. Modern vehicles are really quite reliable.
https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/...833557437.html
https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/...832790556.html
https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/...832458670.html
https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/...833543701.html
https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/...829944263.html
https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/...831452653.html
Around here, these are the types of options you will have.