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Look at the fucking seat control box underneath a Porsche 928 S4 seat. What the fuck? Could they try to make it more complicated?
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I cleaned up a bunch of the solder joints.
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Did you try spinning the wheels while raised to reproduce the sound?Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Yes, can't reproduce by hand. Have not yet put the whole truck up on jack stands and run in 2/4wd to test. The whirring is intermittent, so not sure if I'll even hear it doing that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
My recent craigslist purchase, a 2005 ford escape (aka "the red one"), has some issues, naturally. These issues are centered around the rear differential. The shop will change fluids and replace seals or something and maybe the issues can further be kept in check by replacing just one part rather than the whole thing, but maybe not. Maybe it will also hold together as is long enough for me not to care.
The quote I have been given for "everything that technically would benefit from fixing" is something like 3k, the majority of that being parts. I bought the car for 4500. That is a quote from a dealership, for original parts. Is this something that could be done cheaper with non-original parts by someone who enjoys adventures under the hood, or not really?
The shop mechanic seems to think it is a nice car otherwise and recommended getting the rebuild done before he saw the quote on the parts.
I am wondering if it is worth putting some effort into finding a place that might do the major repair with cheaper parts or on the side or something and if that could realistically happen in this case.
Otherwise I'll call it good with the minor servicing and see what happens/ eventually find something else.
Suggestions?
My opinion, but if you're buying a 5k car off Craigslist just change the fluids and run it until you can't. Don't take a car like that to a dealership. They'll take you for a ride.
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using TGR Forums mobile app
You might look for a rear end shop and compare. Lot of places specialize and wholesale out stuff like this to specialty shops.Quote:
Originally Posted by klar
No idea what availability is like in AK, but a complete rear end in good shape could probably be found from a junk yard for less than $1k in the contiguous US. And maybe take less time to replace.
I have a mk7 golf r with the ea888. Manufacture date is 3/16. Currently at 38k - so far, so good. Lots of headroom on these... Throw on a hp fuel pump, downpipe, and a few other bits and you can get to ~450bhp. Currently running mine at ~330bhp and it's quick. Haldex and xds+ programming can now be done via obd2. Steering could be a little more communicative, but it"s a great car. Have gotten a little bored with it after 18 months, but haven't found anything I'd rather have for a daily driver. Thinking about picking this up for S&G:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
http://rocky-mountain-eurosport.ebiz...-15780798.html
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A friend of mine offered her 2005 Escape up for free on facebook because she got a quote from their shop to replace the transfer case (the part that connects the transmission to the rear axle) and rear differential for $3500, which was about the blue book cost to sell it here. I picked it up from her. The transfer case and differential went bad because the tires were never rotated and they were all different sizes. I picked up a transfer case at a dismantler for $150, and some seals and parts for another $200 and installed it myself. New tires were another $1000. I haven't changed the rear differential. It makes a whining sound, but it seems to drive ok for the past 15,000 miles. Maybe change the fluids, check that the tires are the same size and see how it goes. I wouldn't jump right into repairs unless its really bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by klar
Thanks all, that is fairly encouraging.
It seems to be driving just fine. There is definitely a sound. Apparently there are metal flakes in the fluid so some part probably is pretty fucked. Tires have been rotated and seem ok.
Having never had a car with a rear differential, what are the symptoms of this failing and would it be a gradual thing or more like a "car suddenly not drivable at all anymore" situation?
If it fails and locks up, you will know it...
My approach would be along mazderatis lines. Look for a used rear end. There are used parts places online that could send you what you need, proba ly for a few hundred bucks.
Thanks. That's what I thought until the internet told me that Toyota had both solid axle and ifs at that time on 4runners. My mechanic runs 2 of that year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kailua_Boys
Klar, good luck!
Is the sound only when engine is cold?Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Noticed something similar on land cruiser, but only when it's been cold (I can't remember hearing in the last few winters). The internets tells me it's typical transfer case sound for the truck when it's warming up on a cold day.
No, not consistently. It did make the loudest whirring sounds when coldish - truck is parked outside, started up one morning and drove about 4 miles with the sound increasing louder, before I turned around and went back home out of concern that something was going to fail imminently.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
That was the morning after I had hosed off the underside to clean off road salt. I wonder if it was ice buildup. That would explain the intermittent nature of it all - sometimes there's more ice and frozen slop, sometimes nothing at all.
For the last year only had to do this and drive. Need a brake flush though.Attachment 230565
Cleaning up the intake manifold before installation on the 928. Also got my hardware re plated so it'll look purdy.
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Also yanked out the old ground cables on the 944 Turbo. I made new ones with stuff from an electronics supply company. Milspec terminal, soldered lugs, and 1awg welding cable. No fucking around with ground. I got the intake manifold powder coated... "while I was in there."
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More Porsche goodies. The rest of my 928 parts are back from the powder coater and got the first timing chain tensioner pad installed.
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Headway on the 928. Both valve covers on. Timing chain tensioner pads replaced, oil filler neck and gasket in. Tomorrow I will try to get the intake manifold in. Overly optimistic thinking I may get her going tomorrow, but hopefully this week. Still gotta do the fuel filter and change the oil. Guess I should check if it even needs an oil change... Garage pic for fun.
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Question for the mechanic folks - can I put 215 55 R16 tires on a car that uses 205 60 R16? We have a set of mounted snow tires (215 55 R16) on a car that was just sent down to southern TX (for some reason the new owner didn't want the winter tires). Wife has a new Kia Niro (don't judge..) and we wondering if the winters could be used on hers.
When she suggested it I thought the obvious answer was no, but after reading online I see it's not too uncommon to use slightly differing sizes of tires.
Besides the odometer being slightly off, are there any serious implications to doing this?
You will be fine.
Check out the clearance between tire and frame/body/suspension with the current tires. Full steering range. Maybe also with a tire on the curb, etc.
Should be fine.
I need some of your motivation.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
https://tiresize.com/comparison/Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia
If they fit with no rubbing, and not awd with different sizes on front and rear, should be fine.
928 started up last night on first try. Wahoo!
Sweet! That's a satisfying thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
What's Hugo's? Duh, yeah, I will. With a for sale sign. Hehe.
I still gotta puts seats in it and put it back on the ground. But engine work is done. It is badass.