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That is absolutely crazy!
Got some little guys today in OCMD and earlier this week was gutless at Indian River in DE. Tomorrow through weekend looking like it’ll get big (4-7’ @ 13s+). I’m skill/nerve wise maxed out at head or slightly overhead.
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That teahupoo wave is pretty Intimidating.
Yesterday I had the worst session of the trip. Soft fat mushburger closeouts.
The foamie twin fin hipster local got a wave or two when it was midtide.
But two days ago I was at a really powerful beachie that was surfable at knee high. Sunday I'll be back.
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Some fun ones this morning before offshores picked up.
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Just wanna say I'm waiting for the frenchie Henry storm surge TRs. Go get it guys!!
I almost puked on myself :eek: That video was gnarly AF!
Hitting dawn patrol in the morning, but one from this morning’s EC Henri swell. Clean up set rolling through as me and another guy are paddling our asses off to make it out, when he really casually says “we’re not gonna make it” I had about 1/2 board length to safety when we both got sucked over the falls.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPowHound
Shared camaraderie in those “oh shit” situations amongst strangers is one of the better parts of surfing.
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I don't know what I've surfed today. Whether it's Henri or something else I don't know. I was expecting 3foot windswell , but I surfed chest high 17 seconds goodness. 5-10min lulls in between.
I had to scroll right in the forecast to find the 1.5foot 18 seconds sw swell. It's ok with me though [emoji3]
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Tail end of the DE/MD Henri swell, think it peaked around midnight. This morning early it was maybe shoulder high @10sec, but fully high tide made it look better than it was. Accidentally rode one right onto the sand and only realized at last second.
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Amazing day today with the 1.5 @ 17 again. Clean chest high fun. Awesome setting.Attachment 383299Attachment 383300Attachment 383301Attachment 383302Attachment 383304Attachment 383305
Damn, that looks so fun! Thanks for sharing.Quote:
Originally Posted by subtle plague
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Great pictures and waves look pretty fun!
More people today not as perfect but still a great day. The new swell starts filling in. Should be good tomorrow.
And I got a nasty sun burn yesterday. I totally forgot that even in ireland the sun can have side effects [emoji3] .Attachment 383433
Sorry for the crappy long distance photos. Henri did not disappoint in south jersey. First photo is crystals in Atlantic City Saturday like 630am. Forecast was something silly for NJ like 7’@13s, so I hit crystals since the big rock jetties shelter you from the current a bit and usually you can ride the rip right out past the break. Worked mostly as planned but the rip was pretty bad out past the break so kinda tiring trying to not get sucked around the north jetty into the inlet. I caught a few where I stood up and the lip was a good 2-3 feet above my head, probably biggest waves I’ve ever surfed. Definitely pushed me past my comfort zone a bit!
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Second photo is Sunday morning north side of the el slammo/Longport point jetty. Waves were much more user friendly, in the chest to head range, and generally way more fun than Saturday despite being a little smaller. Did probably the best backside turn of my life right in front of a group paddling out and felt like I actually knew what I was doing for like 5 seconds so that was cool. Ended up in the water for like 5 hours all said and done Sunday.
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Good stuff. Have never surfed Crystals, but my buddy has a place on Brigantine so have surfed that side many times via drive on beach. Imagine you got the bigger swell, but currents were nuts on Saturday so definitely hear you on the paddling to stay out/off the Jetty. I've had the opposite on the Brig side, paddling my ass off just to stay off the rocks over there.
This is for LDD, any other SoCal'ers or anyone thinking of heading down to Baja in the near future. I had planned to be between the K38 area and Alisitos all this week surfing. I got there this past Sunday afternoon and went out at one of my favorite spots on the South end of the Medical Institute around K38.5/39 (I've heard called Nobodys). At this spot you park along the road and walk across an open field to the break. When I came back, I found my passenger, front window busted out. The Policia came, but said there was nothing they could do because nobody (including the Institute security guard) saw or heard anything. They tried to get in my glove box (which was locked and where my cash was) and jacked the lock up bad enough that my key wouldn't work in it anymore. Apparantly, Subaru has a self locking ignition when something like this happens so I couldn't start my car. Luckily, I was able to get ahold of a buddy in Carlsbad and he found online how to get the ignition unlocked and thus the car started. I B-Lined straight for the Border and back to the U.S. I've parked and surfed this spot probably 50 times, all times of the day and never had anything like this happen. I didn't discover until the next day when looking for things that they stole my sunglasses (which were on my passenger's seat) and my backpack (which was on the passenger side floor) that had my gopro and headphones in it. All told, probably going to cost me between $1500-2000 in repairs and replacement costs. As expensive as that is, I'm happy it wasn't worse. I spoke with a kid at Ding King in Encinitas the next day and he said that because of the pandemic their normal tourism income is way down and thus robberies are up. In addition, they are just generally pissed at Americans for not sharing our extra vaccines. I am not bitter about it; like I said, just happy it wasn't worse. I definitely will not be going down there again for a very looooong time, if ever. Incidentally, the kid at Ding King also told me about an article on Stab from a couple of weeks ago about three kids that got everything stolen from them and left out in the desert about an hour south of San Felipe while on their way to Scorpion Bay.
Just wanted to share in case any of you are thinking of heading down there. I've give it a second thought.
I use to love surfing at K39 back in the day. I haven't been there in about 15-20 years because of what you experienced. Sorry you had to deal with that. We need SP to arrange an Ireland surf for the jongs. What he is posting up looks great.
I was surfing at Linda Mar (A shitty beginner northern California beach break for kooks like me) earlier this week and the car next to mine got stolen... On a random Tuesday in broad daylight in a busy paid parking lot. I didn't ask but I am going to guess they were using one of those lockbox things. I'm lucky to be able to keep my low-tech old 4runner key in my wetsuit pocket but its still worrying.
On the wave front, small closeouts as is typical but I can barely catch them anyway at this stage :)
Xover,
Wow, that is terrible. You seem to be taking a healthy attitude, namely that it could have been worse, but that still really sucks.
We used to go down there from time to time, but honestly since the cartel violence first exploded (I'm talking about around 2008) I don't think I have driven into northern Baja. I just decided it's not really worth it at this point. I have done a few Cabo trips, but I really have not been interested in driving down to that area for quite a while.
I'm a bit surprised that the security guard didn't see anything. Was he far enough away that it would be plausible for him not to see?
We had our car broken into in Rosarito when I was in college in the late 90s. We were eating at a restaurant, they just smashed the window and grabbed our wetsuits, didn't get anything else. It happened right in the middle of the town of Rosarito, which is pretty brazen.
Honestly, it has been so long for me that I just have lost the will to drive down there. A long wait at the border, the risk of getting ripped off and potential violence have made it not as appealing as it once was.
Thanks for sharing that. As much as it sucks, I'm glad it wasn't worse.
Today was surprisingly fun. I expected onshore and super small surf.
I got side shore chest to shoulder high fun. And only 3 guys out. I got soooo many good waves.
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I like the look of those lefts SP!
Nice shots as always.
I returned last Monday after a 12 day trip to find the surf has gone pretty flat after a great summer. Trestles went nuts while I was on my trip, I tried not to look at the cams but I couldn't.
I've paddled out a couple of times for quick sessions around Tower 71 in newps. Nothing all that great, but stomach high and rideable. I have been taking out a 6'8" funshape and wearing a fullsuit, neither of which are inspiring after a summer where I barely had to take a big board out at all and wore a spring suit.
SP, how many surfing days do you get in a year? With only 3 guys out I could make a bunch of sacrifices for that. And ya, I love to go left.Quote:
Originally Posted by subtle plague
Depends. Two years ago I got 17 surf days out of 21 days on the island. And 10-12 were really good. But the locals told me that tgat August was exceptional.
Last year I got 8-9 and 5-6 good ones in 3 weeks and this year I guess it'll be 10-12ish and 7-8 good ones in 4+weeks. So traveling here in summer is a gamble. It's not indo [emoji3]
The time to be in ireland generally starts when I leave until mid October. But that's when all the frothing travellers come. So summer is a lot more quiet.
And normally you have 10 guys on that wave(in summer though I don't know what it's like in autumn!)when it's on. But that is the most well known wave in ireland. I haven't even tapped into the potential of these other spots here because you need swell to make them work.
I could live with that. Did you say 10 guys out?
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Oh the horror....
Surf wasn't great but I saw dolphins again. AND one of them surfed. Two guys sat out and could have touched them.Attachment 384157Attachment 384158Attachment 384159Attachment 384160
This thread is full of stoke right now. Thanks for all posting it up.
Xover that sucks. I have heard that Mexico is rough right now, but that is shocking
justo - love those super ripple days after the bigger heavier day. As long of condones stay good, you can seriously have fun when the amp level goes down just a bit.
Found some surf today. Been getting in a bit more. Still weak as fuck, but the shoulder strength is improving. Want to get it ready for October when things really start to get moving.