Anyone else get some today...?

Things slowed down for a while here, and Mt. Baldy and Mammoth turned on, so I've been skiing a lot the last month and not surfing much.

I got in my first couple of sessions in a while last week. Wednesday I surfed shoulder high waves at 36th, which were fun. I had a short window, but I got it clean and uncrowded. It was a bit wonky, but still fun.

Friday I got in about an hour at 32nd street before heading to Baldy for an afternoon ski session. 32nd was chest high and pretty fun. It's always great to surf and ski in the same day, although because of that I'm working more this weekend than I would like. It's pumping today, I should probably get work done and avoid the surf, but it's been a while since the waves have been good.

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Originally Posted by Long duc dong

Things slowed down for a while here, and Mt. Baldy and Mammoth turned on, so I've been skiing a lot the last month and not surfing much.

I got in my first couple of sessions in a while last week. Wednesday I surfed shoulder high waves at 36th, which were fun. I had a short window, but I got it clean and uncrowded. It was a bit wonky, but still fun.

Friday I got in about an hour at 32nd street before heading to Baldy for an afternoon ski session. 32nd was chest high and pretty fun. It's always great to surf and ski in the same day, although because of that I'm working more this weekend than I would like. It's pumping today, I should probably get work done and avoid the surf, but it's been a while since the waves have been good.

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Glad you got out. Been blown out here in Oregon for a long time. But at least the skiing has been good!

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I got in a fun 90 minute session today at 28th street. My first session in several weeks, I'm not sure exactly how long.

There is some swell in the water, it was about head high and a bit jumbled, but there were some fun ones coming through. Unfortunately it was a bit consistent, which meant lots of duck dives in cold water. I had a few really fun ones though, so all worth it. After several weeks out of the water I was a bit off, more awkward than I usually am, which is saying something.

The skiing has been great down here over the last couple of months. I have gotten some good Mammoth trips, and I've been getting at least 2 Baldy days a week on the weekends I don't go to Mammoth. So I can't complain about being out of the water.

The surf has been a bit more jumbled and blown out the last couple of months, after the epic run through late January. Making sure I can get ski days has made me more busy and a bit out of the surfing loop, but I want at least one more morning surf/afternoon Baldy day this winter.

I was able to sneak in a nice late morning session yesterday south of the HB pier.

It was chest high and pretty fun, although the wind was coming up. I am rusty from not surfing much recently, so I didn't surf well, conditional on my level of surfing which is already pretty low, but it is nice to get back in the water.

It is pretty cold down here right now. Like mid-50's cold for a late morning surf on a sunny day. The first couple of duckdives were painful. I quickly understood why I saw so many people with hoods on. I know you guys up north deal with cold water and sharks on a regular basis, but this is Orange County and I expect temperate water, fun (and non-threatening) waves, hot girls and bikinis and sea life that does not scare me. I did see some dolphins and the waves were reasonably fun.

The snow at Mammoth and Baldy has been fun the last couple of months, so that is where my focus has been. In a sense this winter has worked out well: The snow sucked at the beginning, but the waves pumped through January. After that, while the waves have slowed down, the snow has come back.

A few days ago, Friday, I was able to catch a mid-day session in Newport at 36th street. It was about chest high and a bit soft due to high tide, but I took out a funshape and was able to enjoy it.

The water is cold even for this time of year. It was the type of session where you really try to sprint to the outside to avoid a duck dive if possible. Baldy has good snow right now, I opted for that option on Saturday.

Some solid surf down here. If I get enough done today and this evening I should be able to get a Trestles session in tomorrow.

Zuckerberg getting some on his electric surfboard. Does grinch have one yet?

https://www.facebook.com/4/videos/10112961446504101/

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Originally Posted by Long duc dong

Some solid surf down here. If I get enough done today and this evening I should be able to get a Trestles session in tomorrow.

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Really small in San Diego this morning. So I continued my house painting project. I am good for maybe 3 hours a day, so it takes me forever.

Fun session today at 36th street in Newport.

It was around shoulder high, with head high sets, but shifty. I got a couple off the jetty, which was not all that crowded, then waited for more off the jetty and discovered why people were sitting more in the middle. They were backing off and acting a bit strange, and the tide was going out fast, so it was easy to be out of position. It still ended up being lots of fun though, I got a few fun jetty waves and it's fun to get that zone uncrowded, even when the lack of crowd there is due to the fact that it is more consistent between the jetties. Something is building, and I was bummed to have to get out as it seems to be getting better. I dialed in a beautiful head high left that really line-up from second base and decided that I needed to be an adult and take care of responsibilities and actually attend my zoom meeting.

Can someone pull something Ferris Beuller style (think the recorded 'oh it's you, in my weakened condition I might take a nasty spill down the stairs') for situations like this? It would really be nice to not actually have to get out of the water and honor commitments when it is getting better. A recorded, 'we were unable to find a statistically significant relationship between the predictor of interest and the response variable' followed by programmed responses based on the most likely follow-up questions would be great in situations like this.

Big for the outer banks right now. Clean though. Glad to be here.


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I miss the outer banks. Where abouts are you surfing? And what do you mean big for OB? Head plus?

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Originally Posted by Ottime

I miss the outer banks. Where abouts are you surfing? And what do you mean big for OB? Head plus?

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I’m usually here in the summer so early May waves seem big for here. Topping out about head. Supposed to drop tomorrow and the next day. I’m near Jeanettes in Nags Head but they did beach restoration and it created some really interesting waves all along the island. 200 yard wide surfable sections with rips on either side. Works out well if you know how to use it.

But low wind so unusually clean for midday.

Edit: and I spoke to soon. Looks like we’ve lost a bunch of size today.

We used to chase some hurricanes down there in the fall. Surfed Frisco Pier in some big surf. Same trip scored overhead Avon with just perfect barrels on an off shore bar. We were not yet strong enough surfers to make the most of it, but our group was the only ones there.

Hatteras is super fun. Is the water warming up yet?

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Originally Posted by Ottime

We used to chase some hurricanes down there in the fall. Surfed Frisco Pier in some big surf. Same trip scored overhead Avon with just perfect barrels on an off shore bar. We were not yet strong enough surfers to make the most of it, but our group was the only ones there.

Hatteras is super fun. Is the water warming up yet?

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Very cool. It’s a pretty area. Not exactly the most nurturing surf spot though. Sometimes you really have to want it.

Shorty wetsuit is about right. Just above 60 degree water temp.

Early forecast today is 3-5 jumping up to 5-8 at 3pm. We will see if it actually happens. That would be special.

And it happened and then some. Holy crap. Biggest I’ve ever seen it here. Double overhead at times and barrels outside the normal breakwater. Built from big in the morning to winter size this evening.

When it gets that big here it is pretty technical for a mountain dweller like me. Above my pay grade. You have about a 20 yard by 5 yard take off zone and it’s constantly moving. Plus about half the waves are full folders with no shoulders.

Fun to watch though. Lots of weight moving around.

But I did not get some this afternoon.

We're heading out to France on Tuesday. Maybe we'll get a few before it goes flat and we go bouldering. Fingers crossed.
Preparing an rv trip with a baby and a young kid while trying to finish our deck in the backyard is not the most fun thing I've done I my life. [emoji3]

It be worth it once you are on the road and can come back to a result cured deck.

Where in France?

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Originally Posted by Ottime

It be worth it once you are on the road and can come back to a result cured deck.

Where in France?

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Well, we postponed finishing the Deck.

priorities.... [emoji6]
the forecast looks nice. Probably more waves in hossegor than I can handle without paddle training. Not so much the size but consistency wise we should have waves from Wednesday until the weekend at least....I'll be toast by Thursday.

Beach break is a work out.

And forget what I said before. Amended to say, putting off that deck is the right thing so you can prepare and get out on the road. You’ll be happy to return to it after a good vacation with the family.

[emoji16]

Didn't surf today. Still a bit messy. And: Two kids and 14 hours of driving takes its toll. [emoji3]
And the rv is getting old. We have to fix some stuff before ireland.Attachment 375657

Surf is good. Nice Session. But I felt like a beached whale without paddle training. Shoulder high fun. But only a couple of waves for me.
Crazy full moon Tide changes hiw the bars work every 15minutes. :D
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Went North to the ile d oleron. Mellow sandbars and a Sand Pool lagoon on the camping for my daughter. Jackpot.
The waves are rather cruisy but I've surfed everyday since last Wednesday. The Winds have been cooperaring and it's been offshore glassy or side off.
That's more than I had on several uni surf Trips to France in two weeks [emoji3] . Nice family trip.

No pics because the beach is 1.3km away and I have to ride my bike to get there.

Bodyboarding the lagoon [emoji106] Attachment 376252

That is awesome. Best stoke of the day on tgr.

This pretty much sums up my year

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