Ask the experts

you could sand the rotors and/or wipe em with alcohol, i wouldn't replace the rotors if they stop ok

IME if the brakes were not bled from new its possible to just pry the old padz apart and put in new padz,

The only time I have had to mess with what amounts to a re bleed when repalcing padz is when i had earlier done a bleed with old moslty worn padz which meant there was now too much fluid in the lines/ caliper to get new padz into the caliper

i had a super noisey brake which i fixed last week by sanding the old padz , taking the bike up a very longlarge hill and hitting the brakes/ panic stopping a bunch of times all the way down

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by brutah

If I switch from metal brake pads to resin brake pads, should I also switch out the rotors? Do you commonly replace your rotors when replacing pads? also, my buddy recommended opening up the hydraulic line to push out the calipers and then doing a burp bleed after the new pads are in, thoughts?

I was only able to find resin brake pads for my shimano xt 8120 brakes and have been running metal pads.

---

What XXXer said.
I went the other way around recently (resin to metal) and had no issues. I haven't needed a bleed yet so I just pushed the pistons all the way back in, cleaned the rotors with IPA (the rubbing alcohol, not the beer, that went down my gullet), gave them a very light sanding, bedded the metal pads, and went riding. Haven't died yet.

Little more information here, I rebuilt the rear shock. I'm noticing that it's loosing pressure while I'm riding (not ever solely while bottoming out). It appears content to hold pressure (165 PSI) while sitting but looses 20-40 PSI during a ride. No scratches on the shock that I can see.

Any other thoughts for a potential culprit?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dannynoonan

Depending on the shock, a hard bottoming event can push air from the positive chamber --the one that holds you up-- to the negative chamber -- the one that tends to compress the shock-- and that will result in lower air pressure in the + chamber. Sometimes a shock will get "stuck down" which is this situation taken to the max. So, that might have been all that happened, although a stuck down shock is kinda dangerous if you aren't careful. A rebuild is probably the safest thing to do.

---

Quote:

---

Kinda dumb question here. I’m having some strange rear shock issues.

I had a race last weekend and bottomed by suspension out pretty hard around hour three. After that, it felt fairly soft and I bottomed it out a few more times when I wouldn’t expect to. That being said it was ‘okay’ And I was able to finish the race without big issues. Does bottoming out your rear suspension hard (or overheating your shock) make it possible to loose some air pressure? Measuring after my sag was off by more than a little.

Second weird thing, the dust wiper pulled out of place. I have a fox float from 2020. This has happened twice where the dust wiper pulls out of the shock body and I need to rebuild the rear shock. I’ve rebuild the rear shock without issues a couple of times but this has happened more often than I like. I’m wondering if it could also be related to bottoming out and or heat.. Any thoughts?

Riding a short travel 100mm XC rig where historically I’ve ridden longer travel 29’ers. So I think I am not being overly kind to the bike itself

---

Did you check the air valve. They come loose occasionally or might have some crap in there not allowing the core to retract fully

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MegaStoke

According to my personal experience, you should be fine switching pad compound without issue.

---

Same, although I think I've only gone resin->metal and not the other way around. Still, just do it. If they squeal or have lost power then sand/clean, new rotors only if that doesn't help. I've also used metal pads on rotors marked "Resin Pads Only" without a problem, but that's on my commuter and the braking demands aren't high there.

Shouldn't need a bleed unless they were bled by a moron with worn pads still installed. Seriously, who does that? It takes 60 seconds to pull the pads and pop in the bleed block.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grinch

Did you check the air valve. They come loose occasionally or might have some crap in there not allowing the core to retract fully

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

---

Could place the shock underwater to look for bubbles, see if it’s coming from the valve or a bad seal.

Also, it’s definitely that the shock is losing pressure when riding, not that you’re just seeing reduced pressure when re-attaching the shock pump, correct?

Speaking of rebuilding pedals, I used a degreaser that completely oxidized one of the parts:

Attachment 377850

Anyone see this before? Is it because it's anodized, and therefore probably common knowledge this happens or what?!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Thaleia

Speaking of rebuilding pedals, I used a degreaser that completely oxidized one of the parts:

Attachment 377850

Anyone see this before? Is it because it's anodized, and therefore probably common knowledge this happens or what?!

---

Let me guess, concentrated simple green? I ruined a XX1 Eagle cassette’s finish that way.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MegaStoke

Let me guess, concentrated simple green? I ruined a XX1 Eagle cassette’s finish that way.

---

Simple Green Aerospace, or now called Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner is safe for anodized finishes.

Soaking a bike chain in Original Simple Green, the prolonged exposure can cause hydrogen embrittlement of the steel chain. Also called stress cracking corrosion.

Naw this was some generic Canadian Tire automotive degreaser. It used to be sold as a clear solvent but some years ago the formula changed and now it's a soapy purple liquid. Really tough on your skin. And parts.

i had checked for leaks under water after the last rebuild and I was watching for the shock pump to be dropping pressure when it was re-attached.

I luckily do think I have is figured out and it’s not what I was expecting. I talked with a good mechanic at a local shop. The theory is that my hard bottom out incident and loosing pressure / blowing off the dust seal is a separate instance from my post rebuild continuing to loose pressure.

When I rebuilt the shock I pumped it back up to 165. Pulled the pump off, attached again and it had dropped to 150 (as is expected) so I put it back to 165. I then rode the bike and the rear shock felt soft and post ride the pressure checked at 110.

The shop guys theory was that by pumping the shock straight to 165 I hadn’t properly set the negative air spring. So I dropped the pressure to 20, cycled the suspension and then increased in increments of 20 cycling the suspension as I went. This apparently allows the negative side of the air spring to pressurize properly.

Either way, the good news is that it appears to have worked. The bike didn’t loose any pressure on the last ride and the rear shock feels really different. I had to stop and adjust my rebound. Hopefully this keeps up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

Could place the shock underwater to look for bubbles, see if it’s coming from the valve or a bad seal.

Also, it’s definitely that the shock is losing pressure when riding, not that you’re just seeing reduced pressure when re-attaching the shock pump, correct?

---

Well, maybe your shock is looser now.

Last few rides I’ve been getting headaches after cooling down that last the better part of the day. I’m often riding in the morning without eating. Is this an electrolyte issue? The electrolyte s I’ve consumed post ride (often hours later) haven’t seemed to help the headaches. Rides have not been at all epic, 70-90 minutes and 1500-2000 vert. It is hot as fuck here.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

its really easy to just try eating food and drinking more water

on a trip to Moab 2 yrs a go the chiropracter in the group was dosing us with Magnesium Citrate for muscle fatigue which worked

I'm not a sport med guy but i can play one on TGR

if you want

I find it really easy to get behind on hydration and not try to catch up in the evening, then the next day if I have coffee and not start drinking water in the morning I can get a good headache, occasionally with starry vision, especially when it’s hot out. Maybe your headache is related to being dehydrated ?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

On my last bike ride when it was 93 degrees out, both of my brakes started to feel stiff, and the levers wouldn’t rebound. Do my brakes need a hydraulic flush?

On a related note, I’ve ridden my bike pretty hard the past two summers, including having my 45# kid on a Mac-ride, noticing that my rear wheel is out of round when going fast on pavement. The only maintenance I have done is to lube the chain.

I’ve scheduled a tune up at my lbc for three weeks from now. The maintenance listed seems really expensive considering they probably need to replace a number of parts as well. What level of service should I get for my bike? And is any of the service on my 2018 Santa Cruz nomad something I can learn and would be economical to purchase tools for myself? Attachment 377922


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gerome

On my last bike ride when it was 93 degrees out, both of my brakes started to feel stiff, and the levers wouldn’t rebound. Do my brakes need a hydraulic flush?

---

Are they, by any chance, SRAM Guide brakes? 'Cause if they are... I've probably got some bad/good news for you.

Quote:

---

And is any of the service on my 2018 Santa Cruz nomad something I can learn and would be economical to purchase tools for myself?

---

Yes. The only thing I don't really do with my own bike is suspension overhaul and wheel tension/true. You can save yourself GOBS of money doing your own work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gerome

On my last bike ride when it was 93 degrees out, both of my brakes started to feel stiff, and the levers wouldn’t rebound. Do my brakes need a hydraulic flush?

On a related note, I’ve ridden my bike pretty hard the past two summers, including having my 45# kid on a Mac-ride, noticing that my rear wheel is out of round when going fast on pavement. The only maintenance I have done is to lube the chain.

I’ve scheduled a tune up at my lbc for three weeks from now. The maintenance listed seems really expensive considering they probably need to replace a number of parts as well. What level of service should I get for my bike? And is any of the service on my 2018 Santa Cruz nomad something I can learn and would be economical to purchase tools for myself? Attachment 377922


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

---

Two caveats:1) I haven’t worked in a shop in about 15 years and 2) I do all my own maintenance/repairs. So I’m very out of touch with current shop pricing.

But Holy Fuck, that seems expensive! And yes, you could easily learn to perform up to the ‘elite’ service with a small investment in tools.

the intake person filling out the WO should have your bike on the stand to see what it needs and he should tell you which you need

IME nobody wants to pay for any more than basic no matter how fucked up the bike is

If the person filling out the WO doesnt know shit and doesnt have to do the work it can be a problem IME

mechanics might tend to error on the low side but that shop/ any shop needs to make a certian % or they won't be in business long



except for me of course I should get the bro deal for a warm 6 pak of stale budwiesr

They are sram, Code is written on the levers.

This is the first time I’ve seen the maintenance prices out like that. I asked the guys at the backcountry in Truckee, and they said a tune up starts at $60 or so and goes up based on what needs to be repaired, which seems more reasonable.

How often does suspension need to be rebuilt, or outer seals replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Every 50 hours for a Lower Fork Leg service
Every 60 hours for a Rear Shock Air Can Service
Every 100 hours Fork Damper and Air Spring Service.
Every 100 hours Rear Shock Damper and Air Can Service.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gerome

They are sram, Code is written on the levers.

This is the first time I’ve seen the maintenance prices out like that. I asked the guys at the backcountry in Truckee, and they said a tune up starts at $60 or so and goes up based on what needs to be repaired, which seems more reasonable.

How often does suspension need to be rebuilt, or outer seals replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

---

$60 for a basic tune seems more in line with my expectations, but I’d want to know what was included. FYI, the shop I worked at did have prices for standard ‘tune-up’ options and common repairs listed on a board above the service counter, so it’s certainly not unheard of.

Recommended maintenance intervals for suspension vary by brand. Here’s a general overview (but can’t vouch for their accuracy): https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blo...ension-service

Gerome, those prices are INSANE! Are you in Truckee? What shop is that? Sports Hub will give you a way better deal than that. Like half those prices.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by skaredshtles

Are they, by any chance, SRAM Guide brakes? 'Cause if they are... I've probably got some bad/good news for you

---

LOL. I demo'd a bike couple years ago that had SRAM brakes. Can't recall what level, but I went to take the bike out and the wheels pretty much wouldn't spin, brakes were locked up. Pointed this out to the demo guy, his response was "oh yeah well they've been sitting out in the sun.". seriously, these brakes won't work when they're out in the sun? This is socal where it's always sunny. We ride in the sun. So are you telling me these brakes won't work... pretty much ever? Got a blank stare back in response.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rideit

Can you post a pic? Your verbal description is a little confusing.

---

I put some vibratite. Hopefully it stops it from backing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9c95aeb697.jpg