Yup... nobody.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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Yup... nobody.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Quick question, figure folks on this thread will know. Do QK and BF inserts share the same threading - both tap threading and screw threading? 98% sure they do, but probably best to be 100% certain huh?!
I used QK a while back and I seem to remember using the same tap for BF inserts more recently. 5/16-18 or something like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by tang
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Yep. Both 5/16-18 for the mount, and M5x0.8 for the screws (because using consistent units is for chumps).Quote:
Originally Posted by tang
Inserts are slightly different lengths though.
BF is 9.5mm in length, whereas QK are 9mm. I've personally seen a mount go wrong that way, which resulted in bindings ripping off the ski.
How so? Insert sitting proud of the topsheet?Quote:
Originally Posted by rfconroy
^^^ thanks all
Yep, putting the clamping force onto the insert, rather than on the ski itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I'm gripped--just finished half a cast mount on my Renegades--my first time doing one of these mounts. I used a paper template and the binding freedom single hole drill guide to do the scary stuff, then countersunk and tapped the holes. I put the cast plate over the toe holes and almost had a heart attack--it didn't look right at all! Queue lucid nightmares about installing inserts to recover botched holes... I got the screws started, then slid the toe piece on and cranked em down. Shouldn't have been so worried... All four toes slide on and off just right. Whew.
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Mounting a pair of last season Volkl Kenjas for my bird. The ski has three indents --no other marks--on the top sheet for mount position. Forward is short indent, middle longer and bottom longest...which is the factory line? The middle or longer one on bottom? Thanks.
The bottom, longest line is the “factory” line with the next up being the +1cm and the next line +2cm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
Alrighty...thanks noslow!
Finished up the wife's new skis... and my first alpine mounts. Drilled, tapped, chamfered, and G-Flex'd. Pretty stoked because these are her first modern skis with rocker and taper.
Those seem a bit wide for N. VA, but good job.
Looking for advice here. Come Tuesday I'll have some sweet new-to-me skis in hand with one open mount for demo bindings. I think (?) they were Attack2 demos, but will verify with a template once they arrive. Would you:
(1) buy some new Attack2 demos for $160 and reuse the open mount; or
(2) plug the open mount and drill new for some Warden 13's I already have on hand?
I'm leaning toward Option (1) to reduce the number of holes, plus allow me to play with fore/aft binding position. Figured I'd ask the wisdom here before I mount my own fucking skis.
Attachment 391960
Or, buy the new demos and install in new holes.
True, and I'm not opposed to that if it's the best option. I skipped that option as I am assuming the existing holes aren't stripped and screws will bite.Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
First mount using a real jig. Inserts on DW104s for BD Helio 350s, will also be putting inserts for Look Pivots if jigarex's ever come back in stock.
Attachment 391974
Attachment 391975
Attachment 391976
I’ve mounted maybe 20 pairs but got
My first spinner yesterday. Did the fiberglass / marine epoxy trick and it seemed to work.
I know it’s not recommended but I’ve been mounting with a impact driver and a light touch all these years and that was my first spinner…
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I would have no problem re-using the holes that are already there with slow set epoxy, if yer at all worried I would rotate the screw backwards by hand until you feel the screw drop in the old threadsQuote:
Originally Posted by juanrogera
Demo's are heavier if that matters but you do get to mess around with changing boot center
That ^^ might have been my hack, discovered while high on tolulene & redwine one night when the ski shop was closed, sounds sketchy at first but lots of people have done it and it always seems to workQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Toluene buzz is called getting low, not high
I've been trying to dive in and figure out what screws I need. there's a ton of info but not entirely sure. Jondrums shows P18 without the lifters, would that be what I need for Rossi World Cup 15 turntables? Currently they have 4mm lifters underneath, mounting on a different pair and want to remove the lifters, so the screws will be too long. these are the older ones that have the tiny headed screws on the front of the turntable.
Attachment 392000
I must have got it mixed up with the times I drank too much coffeeQuote:
Originally Posted by tuco
They're for Crested Butte. Her mid-Atlantic skis are maybe 78mm under foot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge