the question you asked about your model i did'nt understand completely,would you please elaborate that what you what to ask? find chain saw . com
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the question you asked about your model i did'nt understand completely,would you please elaborate that what you what to ask? find chain saw . com
I've knocked down several smaller trees and hired out some bigger ones.
Took downsome nasty "tree of heaven" that were probably 40' tall and not spindly but not huge. Paid about $600 a pop.
I've got a 65' American Elm that is healthy and huge. Canopy is about 40' wide. A few years back I had a couple bids at $2000 to remove it to clear way for a garage. Today got a bid from one of the local front runners for $3000-$5000 with the explanation "prices went through the roof" I guess he's going to get a second opinion and then give a written bid. Says bids are only good for 30 days. What's up with all this BS? A tree changes that much in 30 days? Should only get easier as the leaves drop. In case of not building a garage I need a trim, he quoted $1000.
Anyone have some similar projects done and or insider knowledge?
I'm sure pine trees are way different but still lots of applicable similarity.
It is right up next to neighbors house ftr. Trunk Probably 10' away.
So, on XXX-er's recco I went ahead got one of there:Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
http://hgcdn2.azureedge.net/qs_mh=68...h410-0482.ashx
And tried it out this week. It took me a little while to figure out how to use it but I have to say it's a pretty cool little tool, probably easier to use effectively than any other filing guide I've used. I especially like the raker depth gauge. Thanks man.
yeah it is not very apparent from literature or internet or any fucking thing how to use that guide BUT just make sure you got the arrows on the guide POINTING FORWARD and make sure you got the right one for your chain, I think the silver one is for a .325 and the blue one is for a 3/8th's chain
I still take that ^^ with me in a pocket but now days instead of fucking around on a stump I sharpen 2 chains at home with the guide in the link below and just swap chains
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Oregon-557849...%257Ciid%253A4
If I get the chain really sharp with this^^ guide I can cut for a day and not need to sharpen, and if need be I got the spare in my vest
The cutters on one of my chains are pretty worn (?) or short (?) -its an old chain that came with the saw - and that guide meadowskipper shows won't work with the chain. The guide works great with the other chains for the saw, though.
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You people have a lot of issues with chains.
Hey now, I just happen to like a sharp chain.
bodywhomper should just toss that worn one.
Not you
I wonder how many cheap plastic saws have been burnt out by overworking them with a dull chain?
Its way less work running a super sharp chain I wonder how many people have been worn out running a dull saw?
Actualy I don't have any chain issues cuz I pretty much got it dialed
It goes beyond chains. But that saw was pretty abused in it's previous lifeQuote:
Originally Posted by ~mikey b
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If its too fucked so you can't sharpen it just get rid of it, a chain is what 25$?
I am starting to think of them more and more as a consumable
so I sharpen the fuck out of them
I have several chains now for that saw. With that guide, if the cutters are really short, the file rests against the side of the guide and you end up filing the inside of the wall of the guide. It took me a while to figure out what was going on. Just an fyi about the guide and well used/sharpened chains
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havent had that ^^ happen/can't picture it but the chains I was sharpening were relatively new, is there much tooth left between that black line on the top of the tooth and the cutting edge of the tooth ?
I 've only tossed out one chain that I accidently cut into a root with and fubared it/chipped a tooth but I have been wondering when is it time to thro them out even if you don't fuck them up?
If i remember, I'll grab the chain, file, and guide and check it out. I'll post a pict. That chain can still be sharpened with a grinder.
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Last month I was talking to the keeper of the saws at work and he said he's ready to toss a chain after it hits a rock really hard. His thinking was this: a roll of chain costs $180 (I don't know where he gets it that cheap, but that's what he said. Maybe a 50 ft roll?) and most of the fools that work there don't know how to sharpen a chain well, so they'll spend over an hour sharpening and trying to cut ineffectively with a badly sharpened chain. The math of wages and productivity lost vs. cost of a new chain comes out in favor of the new chain. "That's my philosophy anyway," is how he put it, so he just makes up a few new chains and tosses the ones that are worn down or will take a while to sharpen. Just a little food for thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
If you compare cost/link for whatever size chain, oftentimes you come out ahead buying loops over spools and the associated tools/labor.
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Chain/
my buddy cut the big wood down on the coast for a bit until it freaked him out too much and he said the outfit he worked for issued each faller 3 chains every morning which they turned in every night to be machine sharpened and the fallers were not allowed to file chains
I got my system down pat to sharpen pretty quick using that Oregon jig and so I always have 2 sharp chains but i agree not everybody cares how sharp a chain is and given wages maybe a new chain makes sense?
I'm also pretty anal about my maintenance routine so after a day of running saw, I swap out the air filter ( I got 2) to be washed & dryed, clean sawdust out of engine, pull the cover to clean the smoo out of clutch area and sharpen chain.
Might seem excessive but no lost time so far
Yeah, but he could hire a dude to sharpen chain for $15 bucks an hour with a machine...like XXX-er described.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
I don't think my jig would stand up to heavy use but its ok for once a week
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsa...hain-Grinders/
If it makes business sense electric chain grinders would be the tits but then you still got to pay someone to run it
So depending on circumstances it might be simpler for his saw guy to just replace the chains a lot
It doesn't make sense if everyone in the field is running dull, beat to shit chains that aren't sharp. Rock hits? Yeah, just get rid of them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
I run Ops for a ski area and we have switched to carbide chains because with how low shit has to get cut to the ground, you are going to hit rocks eventually. With how much wood we were running through, how often chains needed sharpening and the time it took- carbide is well worth it.
The cut may not be quite as fast as some of the more aggressive chippers out there but it cuts smooth and fast- and goes weeks without sharpening, not hours. Even if we threw them in the garbage rather than have them sharpened they’d still be worth it in productivity and man hours.
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsa...ain-3-8-X-050/
Obviuosly you have done the math but besides cutting "significantly slower" Carbide chains look pretty fucking expensive ?
Yeah it looks like throwing away money because you can’t sharpen chains.
i have had chains sharpened by grinders using a jig and the chain loses it's bite really quickly
^^ Are you talking carbide or regular?
regular - too cheap to buy carbide
I can cut a lot of wood with a new regular chain. my friends that have it together touch the chain up with a round file. I am not very good at it
Gotcha. Some shops by me are better than others w/ that. Try another shop.
Depends what you cut too. In our area dogwood, locust and hornbeam can eat up a chain in 25 cuts. Maple and birch you can go for weeks. Oak is in the middle.
i cut predominantly ash, some oak and maple
Remember there being a few posts on some affordable Alaskan mills, can’t seem to find it. Anyone have any recommendations? Have a Stihl MS 271 w/ a 20” Bar. Not looking to getting into anything super heavy duty, looking at something like this...thoughts?
https://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Chai.../dp/B000AMFY90
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Maybe the best IG post for this thread on this site. #bitchingraphicsdude. #powandsaws
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bfd4AfcjPJk/
I'm pretty sure those are one of the BD Megawatt vintages.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
1st Gen?Quote:
Originally Posted by LightRanger
^^^ That's what I was thinking. I think the second gen was the blue graphic?
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Like this? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by LightRanger
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...2ti?highlight=
Hmm, looks like that's it. I never saw (heh) that before. The first Megawatt I noticed was the blue.
Yeah I think that was the first year graphic. 2009-10 season almost certainly.
Wait a minute is it cool to like megawatts ?
Whoa, let's not go crazy here. I was just digging the graphics.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I need a new saw for cutting trenches in snow to burry cable containments pipes. We have a deal with Husqvarna, and I'm a Stihl guy. I need a saw with a 20" bar, and has enough power to push through super compact snow.
If I was buying a Sthil I'd buy a MS440 with 20" bar. What is the Husqvarna equivalent?
Husqvarna 562. You'll love it... it's less displacement, but has gobs of power. Otherwise, the 372, if you can find one. The 562 is all you need.