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Originally Posted by Andeh
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https://www.probikesupply.com/produc...ke-xtr-x01-axsQuote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I've got a new SRAM X9 9-speed rear derailleur, if you have a shifter you want to match up to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
Availability of parts, especially older stuff like 7,8, and 9 spd components and tools for home mechanics is extremely poor and expected to get worse. Trying to find stuff like chain whips, bleed kits, and 7spd freewheels is like trying to find T.P. back in mid-April.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Think months-long waits for shipping containers to get loaded onto boats in Asia. Manufacturers and distributors who would normally bite the bullet in this situation and pony up for air freight are unable to do so because those commercial flights that accept air freight cargo just aren’t happening.
Edit: whoops, meant to quote Canada here, not El Chup.
Have had my Yeti SB6C for a few weeks, love it. Not sure why I didn't get into this sport earlier on in my life. GF is going to be my riding buddy, but she needs a bike. We're close in height so she can use the same size frame as me (medium). She likes the SB6C so when we ride together I'll probably let her ride that. Kind of using it as an excuse to get a long travel 29er for myself. Looking at a few options, around $4k range. One is a used SB5.5, really enjoy the switch infinity suspension. Next option is trying to find a used Ripmo, or Rocky Mountain Instinct BC. Final option might be to do the Ripmo AF, built out a bit (SLX, maybe with the coil option). I like the idea of going new, although the Ripmo AF is pretty heavy. A lightly used carbon Ripmo would probably be ideal, I like that it's a little more trail/climb oriented, but they're hard to find. I'm pretty happy with going used carbon for the Yeti, not that concerned with warranty issues. If there's a manufacturing defect, likely would have hopefully already shown itself used, otherwise if I crash, I'll either get Broken Carbon in boulder to repair, or buy a new frame.
Any thoughts? Or other long travel 29ers that climb well I should look at?
Could possibly shell out for Ripmo V2 in the NX build. Annoying that GX upgrade is an extra $1000. Could maybe buy it, try and sell NX and Guide T brakes right away, then upgrade those myself for a little extra
Ripmo AF before a used carbon bike. You do not want to go through warranty on any of those.
Heavier by only a little bit. Upgrade the wheels and bam...sick bike.
I've owned 70+ carbon bikes over the last five years, and the only time I've ever had to deal with a warranty issue on a frame was when the Spot Rollik broke due to a design flaw. Otherwise, nothing. Plus, these days most companies are so used to working with second-hand buyers that they have really good "crash replacement" offerings.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Overall I've only had a few warranty situations, and those were with droppers or smaller parts.
Yeah let's not do this. I've dealt with warranty on Spot, Trek (3 times) Rocky mountain, Scott, Easton, Stan's...can't think of more right now.
Purely as a consumer. Not as a dealer or guide operation who has a lot of bikes. Your experience does not match that of a consumer.
I don't go around bashing any of those companies after the fact...which you do...and you lose my respect more every time you do it. At this point I wonder who you will burn next but the industry has seen people like you come and go...
2nd hand is not easy to warranty. I've been breaking carbon for 15 years now. Yes the industry has gotten better. No they don't warranty without original buyers receipt except for a few companies. So I don't recommend it and most bike shops say the same. I've had multiple friends hospitalized due to broken carbon. You've had a YouTube douche bag get famous and you moved to another brand. Different situations.
Btw you brought it up...again...and I have no reason to just let you get off with it.
I broke that same bike you had your shit experience with. First and last time you will hear about it. I got over it and never went to the internet to get them involved.
It's always the carbon bars, ain't it? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by simple
Guerilla Gravity?Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
Yup. Happened to me also. I got lucky with just bruised arm protecting my face.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
I'm sure to you "setting the story straight" is what I'm calling "bashing"Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
You should change your Pinkbike name. Maybe just drop the whole Rollik story all together at this point. It's been 2 years now. And I know just about all the details from the other side and yours because you don't stop talking about it online.
Likely you will double down. I hope not. You seem like a good enough dude. Just a little bit egotistical. I am as well but I'll stop when I'm asked.
While the smash is an awesome bike, I think it's climbing capabilities are a notch down from the ripmo or something like a yeti 5.5. The smash is just a little more descending oriented.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Which, of course, makes it even more fun, and being marginally slower on climbs is worth it for the descent.
Very marginally. I'm pretty impressed with the GG suspension
I had sold my bike so waiting for a V2 wasn't an option. I bought a V1 frameset and put a 170mm Fox 38 on it, figuring I could always sell it and go V2 later. Being on the V1 has changed my mind though. The 170 fork brought the headset to within a 1/2* of the V2. That brings the only difference being a slightly more progressive rate on the V2. I actually prefer a more linear rate so, for me at least, the V1 w/ 170 fork is a better option than the V2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Anyone know how to get a snapped off solid hickory hammer handle, wrapped in a cotton rag out of a carbon seat post tube?
So I was replacing my dropper yesterday with a newer version. After removing my old dropper and tying off a dental floss line on the old cable and pulling it though the internal routing, I decided it would be a good idea to clean out the inside of the seat tube before I installed the new dropper. I have a proper tool for this, same tool I use to clean out fork stanchions on rebuilds.
I was too lazy to pull out this speciality tool, so I hastely wrapped a rag around the handle of a soft blow hammer, sprayed some cleaner into the seat tube and shoved the hammer handle down onto the tube. I quickly realized that the slightly tapered handle of the hammer was the wrong tool. Even with the minimal initial down pressure on the "tool" it quickly became apparent that this was a very, very bad decision.
The hammer handle, within seconds, was stuck and embedded in the seat post tube. It was as solid as a 25 year old aluminum post in a steel frame that have lived outside its whole life.
It would not budge, I couldn't get enough leverage to pull up on the hammer. I had to sit on the work shop floor with my feet on the frame pulling on the hammer. No luck, even with silicone spray soaking the cotton rag to try to reduce its bulk. , A twisting motion only resulting in cracking sounds from the 20 year old hickory handle.
The handle eventually snapped off.
Attachment 330766
My next course of action was to remove the cranks and punch out the press fit bottom bracket to see if there was access from inside the BB shell. No luck with the BB shell it was a solid shell with no access.
So now I have a snapped off hickory hammer handle wrapped in a cotton rag, 5" deep in my seat tube, creeping deeper and deeper towards the slight bend in the tube (which will create an even more complex wedge).
I went to the carpentry section of my shop and pulled out a 18" long x 3/4" auger drill bit.
Attachment 330765
With some aggressive (yet careful) drilling, and frequently turning the bike upside down to remove a collection of cotton and wood bits, I eventually removed enough material, and was able to pull the handle out of the seat tube with the drill bit.
Attachment 330767
What a fucking mess.
^^^ no advice, but this is a good cautionary tale. Thanks for sharing!
What a clusterfuck.
Any one ever mess with Galfer rotors? Bikemag has a story yesterday about there 223- way too big for me, but then I got to looking at them in general- their 180 and 203 have great reviews, but are they any better than standard shimano ice tech?
I think they would be really heavy and add to the unsprung weight
223 you mean? It's about 80-100g heavier than a 203mm rotor. So, not nothing, but not a huge penalty if you want more brake.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
The smaller diameter ones are also thinner (1.8mm vs 2.0 for the 223) so the weights are more normal.
All that said, I haven't tried them so no idea if they're any good or not.
Oh man! When good intentions go wrong. As I was reading I'm thinking at least its wood and you can drill....Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Nice problem solving.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
well do you need more brake ?
100 grams on each wheel ( probably just the front ? ) the weight of extra adapters for the calipers, also the weight is unsprung which affects the suspension, also more weight for the rider to move ?
might make more sense on a DH bike
1. Re wooden handle: My suggestion was going to be to burn it.
2. Re Gaffer rotors. Just seems like 3rd party rotors should be cheaper. As in, Shimano and Sram rotors work great. Why would I buy the other brand?
I'm learning Magura rotors are a little thicker. I'm pretty picky about Sram rotors with SRAM brakes. The old AVID turkey gobble was mostly solved by them that way.
I'm sold on running a semi-slick on the rear here in the Tetons. It's perfect for my riding style. But, before I buy another E13 LG1 (which I ran all last year, and loved) I want to field any other recommendations.
Requirements:
-29"
-Tougher than an EXO+ casing
-2.4" or wider
I've had a hard time finding a Minion SS in anything tougher than EXO. Specialized doesn't seem to make a Slaughter in a BLCK DMND or DH casing at 29". Rock Razor seems like it might be cool, but I had terrible experiences with the last Schwalbes I used, and I carry my biases like that. Could be talked into it.
What am I missing?
I have zero experience with them, but Kenda makes the Helldiver Pro, which seems to maybe fit in this category. I'm not sure it's a good option, but it's an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
Minion SS does come in in a DH casing but its a 2.5"WT at 1200g. The DD is only available in 2.3" at 1040g.
If your Schwalbe experience was 5+ years ago with Hans Dampf knobs falling simply by airing up the tire, things have changed and they make a decent tire now.
I've read great things about that LG1. I should try it. I constantly switch between a Minion SS and High Roller2.
Yeah, was looking at that. But also, I have a hard time justifying gambling with Kenda. I still just have OG Nevegal trauma.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I've seen heftier Minion SS's quoted on Maxxis' website, finding them in the real world has been much harder for me for some reason. Good to know they're out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
My Schwalbe experience was more like three years ago, and honestly wasn't bad enough to justify ditching the brand entirely, I should give them another shot at some point.
Found another of the E13's on sale for $40, so I snagged it. If I end up finding that 2.5 DH Minion SS the E13 can go on my hardtail.
I rode the Exo Minion SS basically back to back with the E13 last year, and came away feeling like the E13 did everything the Minion does better. Rolled faster, locked in more aggressively on those cornering knobs, and was basically un-flattable, even with some really dumb race lines.
Yeah, I like the e13 better than the Minion SS too. Biggest thing for me with the Maxxis is that it's to square unless you put one on a super narrow rim. It's like they took a DHF and just lopped the center knobs off without changing the overall profile. The result is that you end up riding on the side knobs way too much of the time and it doesn't actually roll all that great, and the transition into the side knobs happens too soon when you lean over into a corner.
It's been years since I tried the Rock Razor, but I remember that having the opposite problem, where it felt like the side knobs were roughly where the lettering on the sidewall should be. It might as well have not had any. Whether or not that is still the case, I'm not sure.
Schwalbe rock razor in Super gravity is my favorite Colorado and Utah loose over hard and hard rock tire. On the rear obviously. Fast, durable, and holds a line. I take it off to race Enduro. Hans dampf mostly in those cases.
I've been running a Magic Mary/Rock razor combo for a month now. I'm pretty impressed. I'm running the RR in the lighter Speedgrip compound and I've been pleasantly surprised st the sidewall durability. I've run them through some serious terrain with no issues.
That is a fun combo. Push the front wheel hard and the rear wheel dances a bit in the back. You can slide corners that way.
[QUOTE=HAB;6000826]It's been years since I tried the Rock Razor, but I remember that having the opposite problem, where it felt like the side knobs were roughly where the lettering on the sidewall should be. It might as well have not had any. Whether or not that is still the case, I'm not sure.[/QUOTE}
Same. I really love a good semi slick and wanted to like the Rock Razor specifically because I can get them so cheap from the German websites. I just found the side knobs to be so hard to engage. Always liked the Slaughter the best, but I've never tried the E13.
Bontrager SE4? Comes in a 29x2.4 size, may be a bit more knob vomit than you're after though.
Look through the Bontrager TEAM series. Maybe the SE3.Quote:
Originally Posted by scrublover
Quote:
Originally Posted by plugboots
Yeah, I've ridden an SE3, the thing I ran into on that tire is that the overall profile of both the casing and the knobs is more rounded than I want. All the knobs are kind of similar in height, and you've got a bunch of transitional knobs. Which, when coupled with my conditions/riding style means that you've got more consistent traction as you lay the tire over into a corner. And that's sorta the opposite of what I want.Quote:
Originally Posted by scrublover
But also I'm not great at understanding/articulating tread patterns, so feel free to call me out.
I love the tight/loose feeling of a semi-slick on the back because if I'm upright/ not leaning the bike at all, there's no cornering traction, and then I can turn it all the way on in an instant as soon as I lean the bike over. Feels like skiing a triple cambered ski.
Are the Manitou (Machete, Markhor) forks any good? I'm looking at eventually upgrading the fork in my cheap hardtail, it's a 29" 1-1/8" straight 100mm (suntour xct) and the mfr recommends 100-120mm travel... thinking one of these may be decent, but no clue what my options are for non-tapered xc forks.
Pretty slim. Tapered is much better so industry left straight behind
I don't think there are a lot of options for new forks beyond Manitou and X-Fusion, if you want anything half-decent. RockShox makes some, but I think they're all pretty low-end now -- like steel stanchions, 28mm chassis, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
A couple years ago, I went through the same shopping. Ended up with a RockShox Recon Gold, 32mm, aluminum stanchions, turnkey damper -- it was the least-expensive acceptable fork I could find for my singlespeed (1 1/8 straight steerer, q/r dropouts, 100mm).
Looks like Fox will still sell you a 32 with a straight 1.125 steerer. QR only and the lower end Grip damper, but I'm sure it's a lot better than the Suntour.
https://www.ridefox.com/family.php?m=bike&family=32s