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I got an Echo CS440 last bout 1.5 yrs ago. I didnt know anything about chain saws at the time. I bought it cause it was the best one they had at home depot, and they were offering 1yr 0% financing. Good to see this old thread and see that Echos have a decent rep. It has been trouble free so far, and cuts well, 18inch chain..440cc, Paid about $250 for it I think
Stihl ms 250 works well for my needs, haven't taken it trail building yet. The loppers and the machete where in use today on a little project. shhh.
I have used a Husky 345 with a 16" bar for about 7 years. Most of my cutting is limited to no more than about 24", so the small bar works fine. Th esaw has been reliable, has great balance, cuts like a banshee and it is still small enough to easily handle while climbing up in the tree canopy.
Please dont harm the forest anymore. You people are fakes you think you are greenies and you operate two strokes in the forest.Complete contradiction.
Burning wood should be banned,all chainasaws should be banned,and people should be banned from the Wilderness/Roadless areas to protect biodiversity.
You call yourself leftists? Poseurs.
Sit on this, JONG! 185 horsepower of wood cutting power!! My bud Gary on the controls, all 77 inches of him....
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1427/...162eb372_o.jpg
This one made me laugh.:nonono2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Voice for the Animals
Brett has a bee in his bonnet.
Yep, that's a good small saw. But, for a few $ more, the 353 is quite a bit better....magnesium crankcase.. and a bit more power. Here http://www.alamia.com/index.asp?PG=50&ID=124&EM=1 , it's the same price as the 350 at Northern Tool, and there's extras thrown in.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
Still in the 3 cube class is this Dolmar 5100S that I had modified and piped. 6 horsepower out of an 11 pound powerhead, now that's a fast little saw...but, even stock, is more saw than you need. http://farm1.static.flickr.com/219/4...1d4cd2a7_o.jpg
Can I run a White Brothers e pipe and Renthal bars on that thing, with a revlock clutch?
Sichter!
How about altitude jetting?
Sure, bro...come on over....we've lots of toys to play with....
But be sure to bring the lube for the muffler bearing:eek: :D
My dream is a titanium/carbon saw, with a silencer.
4 hp should be sufficient.
Got one of those laying around?
Dang....nope...
Just get a Silky handsaw....fast and stealthy!!
Killer deals on Husky saws here:
http://www.a-chainsaw.com/chain-saws...rna-c-1_2.html
Trigger pulled on Husky 350. Got free shipping, extra chain, hard carrying case, 20" bar and chain lube for the same price as the 350 with 18" bar and no goodies at Lowes. They are located in SLC.
The Stihl 36 is a good option, but I was truly impressed by a Husky 55 rancher this week at work. We used it to demolish a bridge and were cutting in nut deep water. Can't believe the thing was still running as we had half the bar under water and it was still ripping. The wood was also of the creosote soaked variety. Husky's are usually lighter than Stihls, which is also a plus. As far as the altitude thing, we use to scrap the epa carbs 3/4-1/4 turn carbs (bad two stroke huffer, bad), for the older full turn carbs. We did this on 44's along with a mild trail port, and holes in the dual port exuast screens. lots of little things you can do to make it scream up high.
MMMMMM saws...
Love the idea of a tricked out light wait saw you could throw on a pack and ride with. For now I carry a small pruning saw (hand saw, not power unfortunately, cause my 46 w/ 32" bar is just to big to fit in my camel back) to cut out small stuff while riding.
Homelite-10" bar
Oh oh... I feel a song comin' on.....
bump
anyone in denver have access to wholesale prices on a silky ibuki? I could not find a page for ibuki, but it is silky.
Better yet, anyone have one to loan? I'm near downtown denver and drive to DTC all the time.
Also could deal with borrowing a chainsaw as well. Mine is about done. I've cleared 90% of the trees I need to but have a couple left and my current rig is not going to cut it, pun intended.
Figures I'd run across this thread now. Bought a Stihl MS290 last weekend and am happy with it's performance, but a lighter, more powerful saw for the same price would've been cool.
Powerful, light, cheap - pick any two.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainsaw_Willie
I bought a Stihl 361 Pro last year.
Damn, it's a fuckin' nice saw. Cuts through 15" logs like buttah.
that there's a husky 455 - ask me how I know? 'cause I lent it too you!! See you tonight . tomorrow we SAIL!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddy
Bump.
Looking at the Husq 350 or the Stihl 290. Are there any significant differences or specific maintenance issues that I should be aware of before going to look at them? Also, any specific things to look for in a used chainsaw.
To cut firewood in my area I need a spark arrestor. Is this standard or an add on that I can do myself.
Thanks.
The 350 is a lot lighter, with only a bit less power.....and probably cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by concretejungle
Or, for $100 or so more, you could get a pro saw like a Dolmar 5100S. Dealers and scattered and dealer support is lacking, but the saw kicks ass. Can be had for about $380....
Unmodified stock saws will all have a wire mesh screen in the muffler. Needed if you're cutting on FS land.
Los of used saws on craigslist....Look for one that appears well cared for, and not all dinged up. Pull the muffler and examine the piston. Turn it over till you can see the intake side of the cylinder. If both look clean, and the saw has good compression, it's prolly fine.
good saws are : Stihl 260, 360. 361, Husqvarna 350, 351, 353, 346 XP, 359 (best overall near pro level saw)
Lots more are OK...Shindaiwa makes no bad saws, Solo, Dolmar are good, Echo is OK,
I have a Stihl MS 390.....
When I bought my saw last year it was between the Stihl 390 and the Husky 359. I actually went in to buy the 359......and started thinking about the stihls my family has had for cutting firewood, and how a couple of them are literally 40 years old and still run very well. Ended up with the Stihl.....sometimes I think I would have probably like the power ratio better on the Husky, but I'm over it. Mine does great, runs great, cuts wood as fast as I'd like it to, and it doesn't weigh too much.
Does any manufacturer make a left-hand designed chainsaw? I grew up using standard chainsaws, but for safety reasons always placed my left hand forward, which made it less comfortable when cutting a pick-up load of firewood. After all these years I've gotten used to it, but now that I put a wood fireplace in my new home I don't feel like borrowing one of my father's anymore.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grange
This actually is another reason I ended up with the stihl. I don't cut with my left hand forward, but the angle that the handle is at on the stihl is much less severe than that of the the Husky......the husky tends to hurt my wrist and elbow after cutting for a while.
Not a bad idea to pick up and handle a saw before you buy.
nope, no left hand saws are made.....
I'm a lefty....never had a problem...but then, I've run saws for over 35 years...
Yes, some prefer the more straight across angle of Stihl top handles.....I'm not partial. I own Stihl, Husky, Dolmar, Solo, Shindaiwa, and used to run Echo, Poulan, Hoemlite, McCullough....
I like Stihls because of the weight balance. Seem to be 'shorter' lengthwise and 'taller' vertically. Feels more nimble. I was on a MS 440 for a few years then bumped up to the MS 460. You want a left hander? The MS 441 and the 460 have the full wrap handle bar so you can flip her over and make proper back cuts using the BOTTOM of the bar. Cutting with the top of the bar can bring on the dreaded kick back to the neck sort of thing. Be careful. Cutting pants are good idea.
I just ordered an arrestor the other day actually, god damned government telling me I can't start forest fires...
My buddy was running his 460 with a 16" bar for a while. Super high chainspeed and light weight. He decided it was dangerous though and it minimized reach so he back with 20" bar.
Are there any benefits to a longer bar if the trees you're cutting aren't going to be very thick i.e. lodgepole pines?
A longer bar (24" +) is heavier and slower chain speed ie slower cut. 20" is pretty much stock and good all around. Some say if you have 'skip tooth' chain you can get high chain speed too because of less weight of chain but you have 1/2 the cutting surface. You can cut stumps nice and low with 20" and not have to bend over too much.
For fire wood you could go with 16" bar, full house chain. Noticeable difference in cut time.
I worked with this hot chick at a forestry company who ran a jonsered...all I remember of her is of her cutting into a wasp nest in a downed log and being mercilessly swarmed, chucking the jonny down the hill, and running away screaming and ripping her shirt off.Quote:
Originally Posted by train07
oh my. jonsered = boobies in the woods.
edit: I used to be a real husqy diehard. I'm slowly but surely adapting to this forest's staunch unwillingness to run anything but stihls. it still bugs me, but at least I don't mind running saws that constantly run like shit and aren't built to be easily serviced on a daily basis.
also: I'd like to find a used 372 or 044/440/460...if any of you would part with something pm me. I have a pair of 192 bro models I'd trade.
I am amazed that this thread has such legs...and I still haven't found the perfect saw.
I am workin on a trail design project here in the Ruby Mountains (NV), where saw needs are very different in the Big Hole's/Tetons...here, everything is basically 12" or less, suitable for a lightweight, nimble, short length saw.
Can one get a single, stout 'head unit' (motor) and switch blade lengths, chain configuratins, etc, easily?
Is there a 'switchblade' saw, that is worthy, and not a gimmicky P.O.S.?
Would such a saw be desireable, if it is not easily findable?
(Jong thoughts, I know...)
Depending on what kind of cutting you're doing you might not have to bend over as much or as far to buck and limb. But you have to keep a watchful eye out on the tip when it's sticking way out past the wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by concretejungle
I'm having a little cognitive dissonance issue over that, but of course the farther into the woods you go, the prettier the same girl gets.Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiMan
I'm not sure what a 'switchblade saw' is. but you can swap out bar/chain combos pretty easily with most any saws...for certain values of 'easily.'Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Not much of what you say is right....Quote:
Originally Posted by carpathian
Ummm, bar length has nothing to do with chain speed. What will affect it is sprocket teeth count. A stock 460 can handle an 8 tooth sprocket in hardwoods with bar lengths of about 24 inch and under. Most all stock saws, save perhaps 90 cc saws and up, come stock with a 7 tooth sprocket, and run 3/8th pitch chain.
The other thing that affects chain speed is rpm in the wood. Most stock saws turn about 10,000 rpm under load. My fully woods modded saws have a broader power band with more torque, and may pull a bit more rpm in the cut. They also have 40-60% more power than stock saws.
"Full house" refers to a cutter every drive link. No stock chain come this way. "Full comp" is the correct term. I run full comp on 16-24" bars, semi-skip on 24-28", and full skip on 28-72" bars. There is a carbide tipped chain for firefighters that as a cutter every drive link.
Also, the fastest chain usually is full comp, if the saw has enough power to pull it, as it has a bit more drag that full skip. Full skip is best for long bars in softwoods, as the chips are cleared more easily. Most of us west coast cutters like skip as it is faster to sharpen-less cutters.
Also, if you're cutting a stump low, bar length is irrelevant as to how much you have to bend over. I'm usually down on my knees for stump cuts.
go to youtube and type in my user name for a bunch of videos of cutting with some mighty fast saws,, and doing real tree work.
rideit, pm me and I'll fix ya up! Basically, get a Husqvarna 346XP New Edition, and have one of my builders mod it for ya. Then, it'll pull a 20 inch chain with authority. One local Wa logger has one, and is testing it with a 28 inch bar for limbing, so as to not have to bend over. apparantly, it's working out just fine! Your total cost would be close to $700 with shipping and mod costs.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Or, you can run the 346 stock, (my supplier will sell me one for $325, mail order) it will pull an 18 inch bar with ease...just use .325 Stihl full chisel chain. A 16 inch bar is still the best for it, and perfect for you. The new version has 5 more cc's, and has more power and lower rpm power band than the higher revving old 346. Heck, I don't even have one yet, and I have OCGD :eek: (Obsessive compulsive gear disorder---tree climbing and chain saw related, well cameras too--and to a lesser degree lately skiing) Supposedly the 346 is about as good as my 2 Dolmar 5100S saws, and lighter. You can see videos of me running my modded one with a tuned pipe at my youtube page (rbtree)
You can't go wrong with Husqvarna or Sthil.
Sorry not read all the thread but, I wouldn't run a 20" bar & chain as standard unless I was always into big trees, just keep a big bar handy for when you need it. The 346 repalced the 254 (i think) which a lot of pro cutters will tell you was one of the best saws ever made. I ran mine with a 13" bar & chain, and by fuck it had awesome power... pocket rocket :yourock:
I haven't any recommendations.
I just wanted to say I've got a 24 year old Jonsered 820 that's been used very heavily over its lifetime, and it's still going strong. All it needs is chain oil, the odd tune up and a strong back. (thing is heavy)
and at 82cc it'll honk through just about anything, sharp chain or not.