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Why is everyone forming a lynch mob? It sounds like a pretty unconventional approach but if there’s no problem I would move on. How many of the people here remount bindings in existing holes? The tap thing sounds like he was chasing glue out of the thread. Silicone glue sounds like a good idea. The guy probably thinks his method gives a better tune and he hasn’t had any issues that you guys are concerned about.
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Absolutely critical for a proper tune? I'd argue from a purist's, craftsman's and race stock/stiff boot oriented stand point, fine, but from a practical stand point and for performance recreational mortals, probably unnecessary and the difference being unnoticed and negligible at best. I'd want to know if my bindings were being removed by someone for a grind before agreeing to move forward with the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
I mostly just think it's super funny that someone thinks skis with tech bindings require a tune so precise they warrant binding removal.
And dialing your din down to 0 in the off season..Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
What boots did he use to align the tech toe pieces when remounting?
^exactly. None. Just a simple tune. I'm of the mind when you mount a ski the screw uses some core material. You don't just randomly and regularly reuse holes w no consequence.
Not telling someone you are unmounting bindings is bunk.
Yep. Whenever I put new tires on my MTB I like to fully unlace the wheelset and then put them back together first.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
C'mon, you've never pulled the engine from your car to do an oil change?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Montuckeyfried special.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
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Um, perhaps I didn't turn the sarcasm dial up enough? For clarity's sake, I do not remove my bikes' drivetrains prior to wheel truing. Nor do I remove bindings before ski tuning. Hell, half the time I don't even retract the brakes with a rubber band when waxing and edging, I just do it by hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
I stopped doing that and usually have my bros at Penske Racing handle that vs a guy off the street at Jiffy Lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
It went over my head as I was visualizing a guy I rode the lift with a couple weeks ago. The conditions were very dirty/gritty and wet slurpy & corn. He was on race stock skis, race jacket and went on a rant as if the world was ending because he couldn't get a chevron pattern on a base grind and a 0.5° base bevel anywhere in the area he liked and would take his skis 5 to 6 hours to a guy in Breckenridge he trusted.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
I saw no evidence his glide was faster than my hand structured glide.
Anyone not getting your obvious sarcasm should consider migrating to Epic or Alpinezone.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
my buddy had a chevy monza that came stock with a small block V8
you HAD to lift the engine to get at the last spark plug cuz the steering box was in the way,
also it had a 4spd with an 8" dia. clutch I believe out of a Vega, cuz it was geared super high the clutch wore out once or twice a year, every so often change the clutch and maybe that plug
I gotta wonder how many problems that shop ran inot when pulling the bindings?
First generation Toyota minivans required lifting the engine to access at least some of the spark plugs, but they bragged that the plugs were good for 60K miles. I guess a winch becomes part of yer tool kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Enough has been said about the silliness of binding removal, so nothing more to say about that.
... Thom
Very well regarded ski tuner in LCC does the same thing when tuning skis. Also claims that he can get a better tune. But I’m skiing in Utah, not a World Cup ski race. I just want a basic tune that fixes my fucked up bases. No tune in the world is worth remounting my bindings for no reason.
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He probably didn't want to remove his own binders.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
^This. The whole tech binding portion of the story is cracking me up. Back in the day we did this a lot with Nordic skis lol!Quote:
Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive
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Jesus.
I mean, just what the fuck.
There are machines that you will get a more consistent pattern with the bindings removed. On tech bindings it is easier for the ramp to skip in the feed, this will cause a split second of unequal down pressure. I never removed anyones bindings other than my own but there was an old crusty tech that would pull bindings on race skis with a ton of metal to get the best results possible. He was also the only guy I would trust with my skis for what its worth. That all being said returning them unmounted is just being lazy.
I've been told that WC-level grinding is usually doing without bindings installed, but that's a bit different than a basic tune, plus race bindings are generally mounted in a plate, not directly into the ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
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I've seen a vid where the race room techs didnt use any glue but yeah it was into a second deck that was i believe foam, might have been redster double decksQuote:
Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum
This. Race skis generally have a plate that can take screws being pulled and reinstalled waaayyyy better than a ski. Especially a lightweight touring ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
ive never used glue putting RACE BINDINGS on a RACE PLATE. Only glue when putting a plate back on a ski and most of the time I’ll epoxy that. Half the race plates are metal inside plastic, and basic wood glue doesn’t glue to that.
Only reason to glue any screws while mounting is to protect the core from water getting in there. Freeze/thaw of water in binding holes is not good, also water in general in the core is bad.
I would be more interested to know if this guy was plugging holes before grinding or taping over the holes.
depending on the age of the ski that got dropped off and if water got in the core, I would of gone into total prick mode and I would of left there with a new pair of skis.
entering water to a core is just like blowing out drill shavings with your mouth from mounting holes, two things you just don’t fucking do, same reason why tips are always to left.
How about hot boxing, bindings off or on? Is the heat hard on the grease inside the bindings?
given my choice of hot boxing phantom waxing or new ski prep work
id mount after
but removing binders to tune sounds like failure to keep it simple stupid step
maybe he was scared of the bridge
most of your new automated car/ski wash machines pneumatic suction from the top and roll bridgeless but sure throw a lot of water/emulsion around
i tape exposed holes if theyre not gittin plugged
the thought that your breath could put enough moistures into a cores to do anything is quite laughable
Or need to be tuned at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive
Removing bindings used to be fairly common but I really only see it done to race skis now.
9/10 wow level on this whole thread.
Silicone glue would make me skeptical too. Some kinds are OK, some kinds could be bad. Why not just use wood glue?
This is ideal for when you just want to seal up the hole (and don't need to add any significant adhesion):Quote:
Originally Posted by Name Redacted
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Sealants-A...dp/B089N98MBT/
Wood glue rusts bindings screws.
I used to think that made no sense, until a TGR poster wrote something like:
"Wonder how the water got in there that rusted your binding screws? You put it in there."
Ever since switching to that glue (or G/Flex epoxy when I wanted more stick um), I've never had rusted screws when uninstalling a binding.
Most wood glue is water based. I’d choose the silicone every time over wood glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Name Redacted
Praxis Rx…..
Same. Haven't had a rusty screw in 10 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan S.
And yeah. G-flex if I'm close to another hole or something's threatening to spin. But for normal mounts, silicone ftw.
Shoe Goo is great, IAS gave me the idea. Waterproof, sticky as hell and pliable so vibration won’t crack it
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Some silicone glue is good. Some can cause corrosion on many different kinds of metal from the acetic acid that is created by the silicone as it cures. If a guy is pulling your bindings off to tune, I'd be skeptical of everything else in his shop too. "Silicone Glue" could be some caulk that he picked up at Lowe's for all you know.
I trust this guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshalolson
That's great. Notice how he didn't mention silicone?Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
You know what’s guaranteed to rust? Wood glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Name Redacted
Keep filling your cores with water.
Links to specific recommended product?Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
I see a variety of types of Amazing Goop, and don’t see anything called 3M Marine Epoxy.
I think you are fighting shadows here. But maybe you should start spreading your gospel by telling 99% of the people on the hill to check their binding screws for rust. You should make a lot of new friends.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
I've used both of these with reliable results:
https://eclecticproducts.com/product...g-goop-marine/
https://eclecticproducts.com/product...p-all-purpose/