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Actually never had an issue with G3 glue until my current Minimist Glide from last season and patches of it coming off. Our shop sent back the entire shipment of Minimist from this fall due to glue issues ("The Minimist are still in production, but we are currently working on an ongoing issue with a limited amount of them. Our teams are working hard to solve this issue and that this product is safe, reliable and durable.")Quote:
Originally Posted by TG
Any of you guys get snow creep with the new S Glides? They look to have a similar backing to the Free’s but with longer fibers
I am starting to feel like I should exchange the Free‘s for another pair of S Glides
figures. the other ones died. stupid BD glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiddleOfNight
So I got climb 2.0's for the big girls. Kind of middle of the road Pom offering.
Old BD's were 411g/skin, these Pom's are 311g/skin. Each ski is 3641g, so I might call that a 2.5% overall savings (not incl the boot). Not much.
But they're much more packable, and if the glue doesn't pull a BD it's worth it. As for snow creep, I'm hoping their shape helps them do better than BD's. I've always resorted to vet-wrap-ing the tips to prevent it.
Attachment 398889
Read this thread. Bought some s-glides. I’m not big mountain pro enough.
Day 1 on the new Pom's. Different tip attachment than my other Pom's, seemed to keep the skin against the ski really well at the tip - there was zero snow creep. This was at the top:
Attachment 399054
Granted it was a short tour just 90 minutes up, and they're new so the glue will never be better. But super deep snow and the BD's woulda crept for sure. So far so good!
I've been using the orange Free 2.0s this season -- maybe 15 tour days so far. Grip is fantastic. Glide is meh (as marketed). The tips seem a bit chintzy and I almost lost the clip when it fell out of the bracket, but they're otherwise holding up just fine. I agree with the comment above that the plush comes off if you sneeze on it and my glue side has a small amount of plush fibers stuck to it (much of it happened when I was trimming the skins, so maybe my bad).
Overall, I'm quite happy. But, I have also had few gripes with BD and G3 skins (G3 Alpinist skins noticeably didn't grip as well as the BD Ascension or High Traction Alpinists did but glided better than both). After 4-6 seasons, both need to be reglued.
I think whenever someone complains about glue, they need to note how anal they are when it comes to caring for their skins pre-outing, post-outing, and during the summer.
I got BD tails & clips on a skin for a long time, I might have ripped a strap so now I turn the clips around so the tails fold back over the ski top instead of trailing behind the ski which takes some of the strain off the strap holes whih causes the tail ripping and I think the strap is less likely to fail that wayQuote:
Originally Posted by LeoK
ya this ^^ like he sez, you will be regluing in 4-6 seasons, its not hard so either learn or spend the $$$ for new skinsQuote:
Originally Posted by dschane
I've reglued with pomoca glue which might have been slighty > G3 glue which is universaly thot to suck
but now we find BD glue sucks ?
It would seem we have run out of glue to blame stuff on
Well just got a week of hut skiing and broke in my Free Pro 2.0s.
Sadly it didn't go so well for me. This was day 3 at Battle Abbey. Temps were moderate for there at -10c and this happened doing nothing unusual. just pulled skins from pack, grabbed tip and tail to separate and.......RIP
Just put in a warranty claim via EVO and will report back how its handled.
Other than tearing in half, was very happy with glue, grip, and glide.
Attachment 403154
Damn! Impressive. I’ve been on them for a couple of seasons, and while they aren’t as tough as BD’s, I’d be surprised too. Good lick with your claim, hope they take good care of you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeatownSlackey
Unf*ckin acceptable! I have never seen nor heard about something like this happening. Hardware fail. Yes. Glue fail. Possibly. Skin tear in half. BS.
Seems like Pomoca needs to have a rethink about what quality means.
Were you able to salvage the trip and patch the skins back together?
Terrible. Sorry to hear it. Maybe you can sell to somebody who tours on blades?Quote:
Originally Posted by SeatownSlackey
Not having used them before i hedged and brought some old ascensions that were cut for my beater pair of 120s. i used those for the remainder of the trip but gotta give props to the pomoca glue. My on hill remedy was simply to overlap the torn section by ~2" and adjust the tail clip. it held together flawlessly for the remainder of the day and ~6,000 of climbing. If they weren't so brand spanking new there likely would have been some MacGyvering with a voile strap or two.
Bummer Slackey, good work on the salvage.
One of the plastic tip bail cover pieces fell off my 2.0's on day #3, breaking trail during the uber deep days. Didn't lose the bail and one wrap of tape was a good fix. No complaints with grip/glide but durability sounds like an issue.
I just got a pair of Raven 4-locks with these and I have Dynafit speedskins on my beast skis.
The Speedskins glide better by a long shot, grip seems about the same (a little better on the Free Pro 2.0). Still both glide way better than BD nylons obviously. I think I like the Speedskins better. The Free Pro 2.0 feel pretty fragile.
That is an impressive failure and it might be fixable if they won't warranty
IMO they ( the skin makers ) have been making skins/ skin hardware more and more minimalist to the point where this stuff is starting to fail more often,
Too perfect of a cut for it to not be a mfg flaw. I bet it was an unlucky cut over a splice between rolls.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeatownSlackey
speedskins glide better by a long shot compared to Pom's? .. I hadn't really looked at the speedskins, but poked around after your post. dynafit site says speedskins were designed by pomoca, and they look to be quite a bit heavier than free pro's if I'm reading the sites correctly. Do you notice them being burlier or what other distinctions can you share? I like my pom's so far, but always chasing the unicorn skin.Quote:
Originally Posted by thejongiest
Wow- they seem flimsy- but that’s just crazy!!!
I’ve got 3 pairs of free 2.0 with no issues.....but they are definitely flimsy....
FYI- skied with a friend with free 1. Same traction/ weight as free 2 but his glide crushed me. Flat approach, I took 2-3 steps for each of his 1...
Yeah I can't quite figure out what the Speedskin combo is because the only reference I have are the Free Pro 2.0's, but they are definitely stiffer and beefier, but the hair on the bottom seems shorter and less "fluffy". They are thicker but seem more durable and I think they already pack pretty darn well.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiddleOfNight
Interesting thanks, I'll put them on the radar for when I need something new.Quote:
Originally Posted by thejongiest
That failure is due to the layer of plush being applied to the end of a roll of backing+glue and the start of another during production. Ending up with one of these is bad luck. I've had it happen on a pair of Contours, the seam was actually detectable by feel. It wore fast and I ripped the skin in half pulling it off the ski on a warm day. Pomoca should definitely warranty it, it's a known weak spot. Bad luck you ended up with it.
All of you who manage to break Pomoca hardware, especially the tip, must be real savages. I just retired a pair of Climb 2.0 after 4 seasons and probably 250 days due to loss of grip and finally breaking a tail clip (by slamming the ski straight down into rocks). The tip rattles a bit and isn't as quiet as it could be but I've found the hardware to be near indestructible. I'm not kind to my gear either...
I think it depends what your ski tip looks like. I have a ski with a kind of angular tip shape and I end up bending the tip bar when ripping sometimes, doesn't happen with other skis.
Probably also depends on the number of shoulder presses you routinely do. 0 in my case which explains why I can't fathom bending that bar while ripping skins. I can barely bend it by hand. Not going to complain that my skins are too hard to break though...
Dumb question, but double-checking before I press play on a non-refundable purchase. For 190s @ 134-102-125, I'd need the Free Pro 2.0 in XL 140? https://www.pomoca.com/skins/028-free-pro-2-0
IMO: You could go 140 or 125. 140 will give you maximum coverage, the 125 would be like 97% of that, when you factor that the widest part of tip and tail are likely rockered and not in contact with the snow - so not as necessary to have edge-to-edge coverage.Quote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
Right. Thanks. Glad I asked.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinevibes
Any updates on free 2.0’s? Holding up? Shit grip? Shit glide?
I did last season on the Pro S Glides. The tip and tail attachments aren’t as easy to use, as solid (the tails seem more like kids toys than professional equipment) or as snow proof as G3s, but they’re adequate. The balance of grip and glide was the best I’ve experienced. Perfection. The glue seemed fine, handling big days lapping pow in cold temps, until it wasn’t. By the end of the season it was leaving glue residue on my bases. My warranty experience with Dynafit/Salewa USA was a long and painful ordeal, but I got them replaced by Fall. I initially thought I’d sell them and go back to G3s, but then I needed some skins, so I cut them to my skis and am trying again. If I trusted they were going to last more than a season I’d replace the tail attachments with G3s.
I watched my buddy rip a BMT skin in half last month removing it from the ski but it is or was light
Using the Pomona tool I ended up cutting the free pro a bit too wide. The skins are just between the edges. I have to be way too careful when when I put the skins on the skis. Is there a way to shave 1mm from both sides?
Fresh razor blade or Xacto knife, way more precise than the cutters the skin companies includeQuote:
Originally Posted by Cocximus
Agreed - the BD offset process with the Pomoca skins is a better method than the tool that comes with G3 or Pomoca skins.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
I agree ^^ shifting the skin and using an olfa box cutter makes a cleaner edge than the G3 toolQuote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
on the other hand I watched a roomie who should not be allowed to own tools trim his skins without fucking them up so in that sense the tool does work
the pomocas i do own were lazer cut for Dynafit Stokes and Denali, good skins and thats about as light as i think skins should be in the interest of durability
Fuck it, it's time to get this off my chest. With my first skins, I tried the BD method. I fucked up big time. I offset the cut side and cut it again. Since then, I always had good results with the G3 cutter. The skis I cut the pomocas for had serrated edges. I suspect that is what contributed to the poor cut.
Any suggestions on how to do the offset method? Remember, I only want to shave 1 mm on each side. I am pretty clutzy at keeping the blade angle steady. Should I install the skins with the offset and clamp the skis facing down on a 2x4 to get a more exact cut?
Are OLFA all that? I see most drywallers use them, that's a serious endorsement. Too bad it would mess with my milwaukee red serenity. What about blades? I have the general purpose milwaukee blades, and they suck. The tip breaks off with light use. It looks like there are some blade options at HD:
1. OLFA ultra sharp heavy duty
2. Milwaukee drywall "up to 2x sharper"
3. Dewalt carbide (really?) edge
hard to beat an olfa knife IME/IMO use a fresh blade you can always snap a new blade in the middle of the jobQuote:
Originally Posted by Cocximus
if I read your post correctly you did 2 cuts on the same side so then you don't really need to take 1mm off each side, just cut a 2mm slice off the side you misteakenly did't cut ??
I would glue the skin to the base where i want the cut ( measure twice cut once !! ) with the ski base/ plush pointing upwards on my ski jig the glue should hold it well enough for the cut and its possible to shave off very skinny pieces
hold the olfa knife as close to 90degree from base as possible hard/ against the ski edge and make the cut pushing theolfa downwards, you probably won't be able to make one big cut so do the cut making a series of short strokes d pushing towards the edge with an olfa knife
The double offset fuckup was a long time ago on different skins.