Ski Drill Bits

I use the old German manual torque spec…
Gutentite

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Originally Posted by Pinned

There is a published torque spec for binding screws? Is it the same for machine screws (inserts) as it is for the self tapping screws that bindings come with?

Going to order a Pozidriv bit I guess.

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For all standard alpine binding screws it is 4NM and for junior bindings it’s 3NM according to almost all of the manufactures tech manuals.

Binding freedom lists 4NM on its tech page for the insert screws as well.

Thank you all for your comments, stories, tips (or "hacks" as some call them now). I mounted my first set of bindings, following all the suggestions in this thread: I volcanoed the top sheet, tapped the holes until the bases were dimpled and crunching sounds came from inside the skis, I used a power drill to torque the screws until they spinned and then backed off a quarter turn, and I used water soluble glue.

No, I actually spent a ridiculous amount of time doing it, so much that at one point I thought "I can't believe that it's taking this long to drill 16 holes in two planks!"

I have one question about tapping. I did it, since these skis have metal and people with more knowledge about this than me recommend it. But since the screws are self tapping, wouldn't you prefer to feel the screws biting into the metal as you mount your bindings? Just a thought that crossed my mind as I was screwing the bindings onto the skis.

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Originally Posted by Fofo

I have one question about tapping. But since the screws are self tapping, wouldn't you prefer to feel the screws biting into the metal as you mount your bindings?

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If you don't tap skis with a metal laminate, you run the risk of causing that metal laminate to delaminate. I have had several people over the years bring me skis to fix, where the shop they had them mounted at didn't tap them. The screws are self taping in wood, not metal.

random question. Anybody know the diameter of the upper part of Wintersteiger drilling bit? Wintersteiger drill bit typically has a shank and the cutting section, cutting section is obviously 3.5, 4.1 etc... but the upper part? trying to make a 3d printed plate and don't have the bit around me now

I have 7.88 at the shoulder where the chuck should bottom out.

Just picked up a pair of Candide BC 111 skis. Interesting that the recommended drill bit is 4.1 given no metal. Have access to both 4.1 and 3.5 (or 3.6 can't remember off the top of my head), just want to know if 4.1 is really the way to go? Only reason I can think of was some past Factions had an extra layer of fiberglass (I think) in the binding area . Still don't know if that warrants a 4.1, let alone if there is even an extra layer of fiberglass in these Candide skis as there's no mention. Thoughts? If it matters I'll be mounting Marker Jester 16s on these.

Drill 3.6, if there is a metal binding plate... dril with a 4.1 for the rest.

Wow ! Americans going all mofoing metric and shit, I use a 5/32nds which is 3.96875 Millimeters