Tool Time

This thread may be more dangerous than the 2021 bike lust one.

Like the tiers, I do have and use a headset/bb press, like the Wheel Manufacturing one for home use.

Off the cuff I probably use chain whip, cassette drivers and my two torque wrenches the most from the non core tier. I own no cone wrenches and can probably only think of a few times that I could have used them. Though my hubs tend to be pretty easy to service.

Also use my quick link breaker pretty often. I have the Pedros one, but think the Park one that also allows you to close/lock/spread the link would be better. Now I pull it off the stand and step on the pedal to apply pressure to lock quick link. NBD but could be better.

Organically grew my (disaster) shop organically as well, which is likely the way to go IMO. Next step for me is getting my tools together for fork rebuilds. Had one mechanic and shop in my area that was always so far above I didn’t bother, but mechanic moved so now adding to my DIY list.


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Originally Posted by Dantheman

Ignoring the more basic non- or marginally-bike specific tools that your should own regardless (e.g., L handle allen wrench set, needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, razor knife, etc.), my strategy has been to buy the tool(s) when a repair/task comes up that I need it for. Eventually you'll end up with a pretty complete kit. I used to compare the cost of the tool to the cost of the repair at the shop, but with shop rates and lead times these days that's become superfluous. While I'm certainly no pro and it's taken a long ass time, at this point the only work I outsource is full suspension rebuilds.

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Pretty much what I've done. Also agree that a stand is important.

I need to organize my bike tools though, right now all bike stuff is just tossed in the bike drawer in the rolling toolbox. Someday.

Related tool time carry over from expert thread… below is my tulbag w contents that fits in road jersey pocket or mtb bib liner pocket. Tubes on bikes and this for road/gravel/CX has saved my bacon more than a few times. Did just get a stans dart but haven’t used it yet, or figured out where to put it. Think that’ll be for longer more remote rides.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e2fb3cc9c5.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

Buy a new frame with a threaded BB.

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This hurts me…. Yah I’m disappointed as I came from a threaded to a press ( which I thought were dead) but such is life.

For sure hoping my next bike will be threaded. I’ll have to live with this for 2 years or so.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sandbox

This hurts me…. Yah I’m disappointed as I came from a threaded to a press ( which I thought were dead) but such is life.

For sure hoping my next bike will be threaded. I’ll have to live with this for 2 years or so.


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See? A perfect excuse to buy a bearing press. Can double as a headset press. And a beer can crusher if you drill a hole in the bottom of the beer can.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sandbox

This hurts me…. Yah I’m disappointed as I came from a threaded to a press ( which I thought were dead) but such is life.

For sure hoping my next bike will be threaded. I’ll have to live with this for 2 years or so.


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All jokes aside, as long as you have the right BB presses, any threaded rod/washer/nut combo will work.
I have a simple Shimano TL-BB12 (https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-TL...B-Install-Tool) press fit tool, and I have a bunch of other size presses that I use on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EWG

See? A perfect excuse to buy a bearing press. Can double as a headset press. And a beer can crusher if you drill a hole in the bottom of the beer can.

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you are suposed to crush the beer cans on your forehead

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

you are suposed to crush the beer cans on your forehead

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Shit, you’re right.

Then why the hell do I own a fucking Park headset press?

Dammit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EWG

Shit, you’re right.

Then why the hell do I own a fucking Park headset press?

Dammit.

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Park actually makes a headband with a metal plate on it for crushing cans on your head, believe the tool number is HBCC-12, retail is $118 and it’s sold out


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Would this work for what I need? Cheap ass Amazon and if it sucks it goes right back.
Attachment 377775


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i duno, it sounds kind of metro sexual

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sandbox

Park actually makes a headband with a metal plate on it for crushing cans on your head, believe the tool number is HBCC-12, retail is $118 and it’s sold out


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Sounds like a way cooler tool than a Campagnolo corkscrew. Better price too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sandbox

Would this work for what I need? Cheap ass Amazon and if it sucks it goes right back.
Attachment 377775


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Not rocket surgery, looks fine to me.

Here's another option for portable tool organizing. I added a pouch and the swing-out hex key holder. The folding organizer thing was like $15 at HD and the boxes are really cheap too. With this stuff I can fix or replace just about anything that could go wrong on a road trip. I also carry another box with spare tires, cassettes, cleaners, and a few other things. The whole arrangement stacks nicely and fits in the externally accessible compartment on my RV, along with a mini-compressor, folding table, and tripod bike workstand.Attachment 377780Attachment 377781Attachment 377782Attachment 377783

PART 2

As mentioned above my travel tool box is not built for weight, no super light tools, no titanium hammers (I'd rather spend $200 on other things), no leaving tools out that might not be needed.
It weighs 13.5kg/30lbs. It's a Rigid Pro Organizer, 22" x 14" x 6.5", with Kaizen foam inserts.
FIRST LAYER PLIERS

Attachment 377882

First Layer, pliers layer. Left to Right.
-Knipex 250mm Plier Wrench (10", what's an inch?) These open up to 52mm, I like them for suspension top caps.
-Knipex 150mm Plier Wrench (6") These open up to 27mm, I'm thinking of milling down the sides of these to make them into a cone wrench width.
-Park Tool MLP 1.2 Master Link Pliers
-Park Tool CN-10 cutters. Used to cut only cable housing and shifter brake cables, and to reshape using after a cut, and to crimp a cable end.
-Multi size hole punch. For punching new holes in race plates after trimming them to size. Its old, real made of real metal, and some German brand. I have also modified one of the punches to be a crimper/crusher. And I put it in my box to modify if for a special project that I have not got around to yet. (future bling to come)
-Side cutters, dykes, diags. General purpose cutting pliers. for cutting everything but zip ties.
-Needle nose locking pliers, ViceGrip brand, any other brand of locking pliers is junk.
-Fine needle nose pliers, for getting into small/fine spaces.
-Internal straight snap ring pliers, small enough to get into SRAM brake levers. From Hobby Lobby (?).
-Flush mount diagonal snips. For Zip Ties ONLY! My biggest pet peeve is zip ties on a bike that were cut without flush mount snips. These flush mounts don't leave sharp and dangerous ends.
-Park Tool SZR-1 Sisccors. For cutting anything non metal.
-Razor blade knife, spare razor blades.
-Park Tool CT-3.3 Chain Tool. Someone made a joke that it does not belong on the pliers level, but its a chain cutter, and a pin pusher, same function as pliers in my opinion, plus its next to the Quick Link tool.
The silver square beside the Chain Tool is a tool perturbing from the next layer.

SECOND LAYER, BIGGER TOOLS

Attachment 377865

Second Layer, bigger tools. Left side then Top to Bottom
-Shimano TL-FC32 Bottom Bracket tool. This is the standard 16 notch 44mm size, so original Shimano external threaded BBs, also Campy, SRAM, Chris King, etc. BUT I like this tool for rotor lock rings, I prefer the flat style wrench up against a rotor instead of the round BB cup tool on a ratchet or wrench.
-I also have the 16 notch 41mm adapter for Ultegra BBs (inside the wrench) and the 16 notch 39mm adapter for DuraAce BBs (below the wrench).
-Shimano TL-FC 16 crank arm preloaded tool. I like this cheap little one because you never should put more than finger tight preload on that crank. Other tools that attach to longer levers tend to over torque the preload cap on the left side of Shimano cranks.
TOP ROW
-Park Tool HCW-16.3 Chain Whip/Pedal Wrench Combo. Its strong enough for a chain whip and has a 15mm pedal wrench for pedals that dont have a 6mm/8mm hex opening on the back side.
-Park Tool DAG-2.2 Derailleur Alignment Gauge. To me this is the most valuable tool a home mechanic could own. So many simple derailleur/shifting issues can be easily fixed by straightening a derailleur hanger.
-3/8" drive Torque wrench. 6Nm to 60Nm range. Anything below 8Nm I use my CDI 1/4 drive Torque wrench, this is strong enough to torque BB cups and Cassettes.
- Park Tool 3/8" Drive 15" Breaker Bar, for when you really need to lean on something to loosen it.
-Abbey Tools Socket Crombie for HG lock rings. 3/8" square drive.
-FSA Isis Bottom Bracket Tool, with a 1/2" square drive reduced to 3/8" drive with a KTC Ratchet Adapter.
-Stanley 8oz soft face mallet. I hope I don't need to hit anything on a bike with a hammer bigger than this.
-Park Tool BBT 69.2 Bottom Bracket Tool, 16 notch 44mm size for Shimano and lock rotors. (also most external threaded types like Campy, Chris King, FSA, SRAM/GXP, Race Face X-type, Surly, Wheels, Fulcrum, Hope)
-Park Tool BBT 79 Bottom Bracket Tool, 12 notch 46mm. This fits SRAM Dub and Race Face Cinch (plus others, this also works on SRAM 24 notch Dub BBs)
-Park Tool BBT 27.2 Bottom Bracket Tool, 16 notch 49mm. This fits Wheels Mfg Thread Together, FSA MegaEvo, +
-Wera Zyklop 8000 B, 3/8-Inch Drive Ratchet. This ratchet is basically 5 tools in one. Its a standard ratchet, the head pivots to use the ratchet at any angle, it can be used straight on like a screwdriver, its got a fly wheel to quickly spin bolts in, and it has 5* of fine tooth engagement. It's very nice, one of my favorite tools to use.
-KTC Ratchet Adapter 3/8" drive to 1/4" drive.
-4" 3/8" drive extension.
-3/8" drive bit set. 3/8" drive to 1/4" bit holder, T25, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, also a 16mm hex for Race Face Cranks that slide over top of the 10mm (not in photo).

Thats all for tonight.

That's a dialed kit Hubbs. Good stuff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by criscam

i need to start building up my bike tool set and figuring shit out myself. any reccs on a intro type set that won't break the bank and i can gradually add to?

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Rob a bank. Buy a frame. Then buy the parts to complete the bike. When the bike is complete you'll have a good set of tools.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

My travel tool box is not built for weight, no super light tools, no titanium hammers (I'd rather spend $200 on other things), no leaving tools out that might not be needed.
It weighs 13.5kg/30lbs. It's a Rigid Pro Organizer, 22" x 14" x 6.5", with Kaizen foam inserts.
TOP LAYER

Attachment 377748

Top layer of my travel tool box. Left to Right Top row, Left to Right Bottom row:
-Wera L- Hex Keys. 8mm, 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm, 2.0mm (2.0 has a wrap of tape on it at 50mm/70mm from the end of the wrench, the 2.0mm is mostly used to adjust the lever reach adjustment screws, so the 60mm tape mark gives me a quick reference to equal lever adjustments). T10, T25, T30. The color coding on the Wera is nice and the Hex Plus shape is great for hold and preventing stripping.
-Park tool picks, straight and L shaped.
-3m/10ft measuring tape
-3 Way hex key 6mm, 5mm, 4 mm (color marked for quick identification), and under neath it a 3mm, 2.5mm, 2.0mm 3 way hex.
-Park Tool SW-7 spoke wrench with 3 sizes: 3.23mm, 3.30mm, 3.45mm
-Shimano CN42 Chain wear indicator. I like the Shimano because it pushes the roller pins together for accurate measurement. But just pick one style and stick with it.
-100mm/4" mini caliper
-150mm/6" steel ruler with sliding depth stop
-Park Tool CNW-2 chain ring bolt tool
-Disc brake rotor centering adjustment tool
-Topeak Digital Tire Pressure Smart Gauge
-Park tool VC-1 valve core remover tool
-Strong LED light
LOWER HALF
-1/4 square ratchet palm spinner
-Park Tool folding hex key set (when someone asks to borrow a hex key) or for a 1.5mm key.
-Wiha 1/4 hex bits 25mm length: T25 wedge (for stripped T25s), T10, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm extension on top of 6mm.
-Wera 1/4 hex bits 89mm length for the Wera screw driver, Hex Plus 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm, 2mm, T10, T20, T25, T30, Phillips #1, #2, Flat 1.2x8mm, 1.0x5.5mm. Wera 1/4 hex bits 25mm length: Hex Plus 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm, 2.0mm, T25mm.
-Mastercraft 1/4 square drive ratchet
-Wera screw driver
-Wera 1/4 square ratchet to 1/4 drive adapter, allows me to use any of the 1/4 drive bits with a ratchet or the quick drive palm ratchet
-CDI Torque Control Wrench adjustable from 2-8Nm. accepts all my 1/4 bits. (CDI is the torque tool devision for Snap On, very good quality and accuracy)
-Bontrager 5Nm pre set torque wrenches, 4mm (marked in yellow for quick identifications), 5mm (marked in Orange for quick identification) and T25.
-Crankbothers Speedier Tire Lever for those stubborn tires (I cant believe its made by Crankbrothers)
-Park Tool TL-1 tire lever.

The next layers will be posted later.

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Do you have problems with the tools on the lid falling out of the foam during transit? I have the same box and foam and every time I transport it a few tools come out of the foam. Not the end of the world, but definitely a bit annoying.

After seeing your setup I'm thinking about redoing mine and swapping some tools in/out. This would be a good change to redo the cuts and perhaps make them a bit tighter.

I have a few that fall from the top. The next recut will be a bit tighter, or I'll try a different type of foam, maybe a denser brand than Kaizen. I also trimmed some of the boxes plastic strut supports and filled in some of the open support squares on the lid, this way the cut foam sits more flush and does not flex with a void behind them.
I also considered a making skirt that goes behind the cut foam and Velcros in front of tools to secure them before closing/opening.

I still have one more tool layer to show and describe. Maybe tonight.

Do you cut it yourself or have it laser cut for you?

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Originally Posted by abraham

Do you cut it yourself or have it laser cut for you?

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Some razor blade, some razor blade on the end of the knife.
I have a friend with a CNC that just bought a special foam cutting bit, well try that next.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by meepmoop24

Do you have problems with the tools on the lid falling out of the foam during transit? I have the same box and foam and every time I transport it a few tools come out of the foam. Not the end of the world, but definitely a bit annoying.

After seeing your setup I'm thinking about redoing mine and swapping some tools in/out. This would be a good change to redo the cuts and perhaps make them a bit tighter.

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could you sandwich another piece of foam the exact size of the case to go between the top and bottom maybe it would be 1/2 " or whatever to hold things in ?

my tool cases would always shed tools from the pockets if i didnt keep them standing up and so i always transported the case on its hinge end

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

I have a few that fall from the top. The next recut will be a bit tighter, or I'll try a different type of foam, maybe a denser brand than Kaizen. I also trimmed some of the boxes plastic strut supports and filled in some of the open support squares on the lid, this way the cut foam sits more flush and does not flex with a void behind them.
I also considered a making skirt that goes behind the cut foam and Velcros in front of tools to secure them before closing/opening.

I still have one more tool layer to show and describe. Maybe tonight.

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Wow, didn't realize you got 3 layers in that case! Did you have Kaizen do something custom in terms of layers? I got their inserts and only have 2 layers in the bottom.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

could you sandwich another piece of foam the exact size of the case to go between the top and bottom maybe it would be 1/2 " or whatever to hold things in ?

my tool cases would always shed tools from the pockets if i didnt keep them standing up and so i always transported the case on its hinge end

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Yep that would be one way to handle it. Right now I do something similar and just keep it stood up on the hinge end, but some tools still fall out.

Attachment 378452
more tool case porn

sometimes i was into the case 20 times a day, i think i wore out 8 of them in 30 yars, then you order a new one with a P/N

if you didnt keep it on hinge end shit went everywhere including little boxes and packages of parts you didnt want to resort

so you kept it on end

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Attachment 378452
more tool case porn

sometimes i was into the case 20 times a day, i think i wore out 8 of them in 30 yars, then you order a new one with a P/N

if you didnt keep it on hinge end shit went everywhere including little boxes and packages of parts you didnt want to resort

so you kept it on end

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I would be interested in seeing the leisure suit you wear while transporting that case

Quote:

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Originally Posted by meepmoop24

Wow, didn't realize you got 3 layers in that case! Did you have Kaizen do something custom in terms of layers? I got their inserts and only have 2 layers in the bottom.

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I did:
bottom = 30mm (Kaizen cut)
middle = 30mm (Kaizen cut)
top = 20mm (self cut)
lid = 30mm (Kaizen cut)

Kaizen normally sells a 57mm and 30mm layer for that box (box is 87mm deep).
My 3 layers are 80mm total.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

I would be interested in seeing the leisure suit you wear while transporting that case

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when we had to wear suits it would be any cheap suit that looked OK with dirt grease on it

IME you wanted to look like the instantly recognisable HW guy cuz he gets to cruise right on in,

becuz the HW guy is important

that fucking college boy sales rep can sit and cool his heels in reception till hell freezes over

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Attachment 378452
more tool case porn

sometimes i was into the case 20 times a day, i think i wore out 8 of them in 30 yars, then you order a new one with a P/N

if you didnt keep it on hinge end shit went everywhere including little boxes and packages of parts you didnt want to resort

so you kept it on end

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Same with mine (looks like a similar/identical case). So I eventually just dumped most of the tools in the bottom and leave them loose now.

I always liked to have the tools in the pockets, just keeping the case up-right is a habit cuz i havent fixed a puter for money in > 16 yars

When you looked like the repair nerd you could just walk right in anywhere behind bank counters or reception desks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I always liked to have the tools in the pockets, just keeping the case up-right is a habit cuz i havent fixed a puter for money in > 16 yars

When you looked like the repair nerd you could just walk right in anywhere behind bank counters or reception desks

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Just realized those are computer fixin tools. Looks almost identical on quick glance to my hard metal Pedros tool case.

They used to give us tool cases that looked like an old cheap suitcase but this looks a little more modern, I have 5 or 6 half dead ones in my shed, still good for storage

Yup thats how I retired at 49 by fixing 10's of thousands of the HW starting at 18, I find it hard believe even tho i was there

i might have been a little spaced

My travel tool box is not built for weight, no super light tools, no titanium hammers (I'd rather spend $200 on other things), no leaving tools out that might not be needed.
It weighs 13.5kg/30lbs. It's a Rigid Pro Organizer, 22" x 14" x 6.5", with Kaizen foam inserts.
BOTTOM LAYER

Attachment 378726

-Bleed Kit for Mineral Oil systems. Liquid proof container to prevent contamination in the rest of my box. Syringe with tips/fittings for Shimano, Tektro and Magura. Bleed blocks and pad spacers, along with a hose vise and barbs and olives. Missing from photo is the 2oz bottle of Shimano fluid (same for Tektro) and a bottle of Magura Blue Royal Blood.
-Park Tool PP 1.2 pad/piston spreader
-7mm and 8mm box wrench for brake banjos and bleed valves
-Shimano bleed cup (missing from the photo in the triangle void)
-The funny c shaped tool is a hacksaw blade holder, and under the foam (accessed when one bleed kit s removed) I have a fine tooth steel blade and a carbon specific diamonds blade for cutting bars and steerers or anything else.
-Above the saw and beside the box wrenches are 2 handle bar grip clamps to be used as cutting guides.
-Missing is the white SRAM Eagle B-Gap measurement tool
-I also have a 150mm round file above the box wrenches up against the box and foam.
-I have 2 Wash buddy/chain bungs/Chain keepers. One is for QR dropouts and one slides over a 12mm axle. They allow you to clean a bike with the wheel off and allow you to keep the chain from sloping around, and you can also pedal and shift though gears with them on.
-Bleed Kit for DOT Brake Fluid systems. Liquid proof container to prevent contamination in the rest of my box. 2 Syringes with tips/fittings for SRAM and Hayes. Bleed blocks and pad spacers, and spare barbs and olives. And a 2oz bottle of DOT Fluid. Also have the 8mm Crowfoot wrench to 3/8 drive to torque the brake line to lever.
-Black fine tip paint pen, white fine tip paint pen, silver Sharpie marker and black Sharpie marker.
-Lezyne digital shock pump
-Lezyne micro floor drive pump
-Plumb bob with sifter cable as string. Used for mike setup and measurements.

Thats all in the travel box.
I'll post a few other items that go to events with me depending on the location and setup.

Awesome set up, thanks for posting. I think I'm going to re-do my Ridgid box to have 3 layers and change out some of the tools.

Do you have problems with the foam bending as you take out each layer? I was thinking of gluing a thin plastic sheet to the bottom of each one and drilling a hole to thread some fabric through, which would act as a makeshift handle.

Also, how do you like the Lezyne Digital Shock Drive? Been thinking about picking one of those up too.

Also curious to hear about the Lezyne Digital shock pump. I've got the digital Fox (aka SRAM aka everyone else) and the rubber hose protector is falling apart. Plus it's a couple inches too long to fit in most fanny packs for trailside tuning.

Bumping this up. Got me a pelican style box and some better Kaizen foam inserts on the way.

Dee did you just cut your's with a snap knife or go all out with a hot knife?

Wow my travel toolbox needs work, great ideas and inspiration. Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Dee did you just cut your's with a snap knife or go all out with a hot knife?

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A little bit of both the regular knife and the hot knife. I found that the the hot knife works really well, but the foam melts back a bit, essentially creating a wide kerf of your cut, just take the extra width into consideration.
Walmart has some "Wood burning tools" with knife attachments for cheap, its worth picking one up for under $20. I like the flat tips to smooth the rip-out layer below the tools.
This is motivating me to redo some layers in my box, as I got some new lighter tools that I want to add to my travel case.

I got the long nose marker and long thin blades from here to do my tool box and they worked really well: https://kaizeninserts.com/t/tools-to-kaizen

I also put marks on the blade using a sharpie to indicate depth so that I had an idea of how deep I was cutting.

I’ve been buying some new tools in the off season. I’ll be able to update some stories here soon.
On my purchased list include:
-Some fancy bits from a niche tool company out of Japan and Germany.
-Some new bits for my travel case (which means new foam cuts)
-Some new pieces for my garage wall set, mostly bearing presses, BB cup tools, and suspension tools.
-a full set of tools to fill a new “Tool Roll” that will act as a every day carry set in the car, it will allow me perform almost any fix at a trail head, without having to bring my hard case.

My fist new tool(s) I want to show off is the Bosch Easy Pump. (Freshly arriving from Germany, not distributed in USA).
It’s a hand held battery operated pump. The battery is self contained, with a micro USB - USB charge cord. Features an automatic PSI (or BAR) shut off, max pressure of 150 PSI.
I matched it with the Silca Hero Chuck, which is in my opinion the best presets air chuck/head in the industry.
It weight 500g (1.1lbs) with the Hero Chuck attached, and the battery life is claimed to fill 8 bike tires. I’m sure it will last many “top ups”.

Attachment 404060

Attachment 404061

Attachment 404062