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Do rotors matter? Not wondering about size, wondering about brand, style, etc. I've always just used the Shimano 2 piece, imagining they're more resistant to warping. I've got some friends who swear by 3rd party floating rotors (Hope knock offs). But a lot of people seem to do just fine with cheap Sram 1- piece rotors.
I definitely suck at truing rotors, and even when I do it seems to be a very temporary fix. Makes me feel like tossing them, but at $50/ea that's a hard thing.
I’ve had no issues with the cheapo RT-66s. They don’t look as cool as the 2-piece rotors, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Others do not share this opinion, but I actually don't give a shit about my rotors. I'm decent at truing them, which is important cause I tend to smack them into stuff, and on top of that I just buy cheap ones. I got like 12 of them at a bike swap (new Avids) for like $5-10 each and I'm just working through them.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
For whatever reason I find it easy to adapt to whatever brakes I happen to be using. I've had Juicys, Hayes, and now XTs, and as far as I'm concerned, they all work fine. Even have Avid Mechanicals on one bike, and while I wouldn't want them on my 575 ripping downhill, they are generally fine. I suppose this is odd because otherwise I am super anal about all things bike. Move my bars 2mm and I will slowly go crazy, for example...
Anyway, my 2 cents.
Thanks.
Updated question:
1. Related to repeated long, fast, brake cooking downhills........
New question:
2. Do you replace rotors with pads? Or do you keep rotors with old pads? Do you have problems with squealing? Because I do!
Doesn't matter. Pads will bed into the angle of the rotor based on whatever angle the caliper sits at.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Squealing should go away once you get them bedded. If not, then you just have a bad rotor/frame mount/caliper combo. But squealing before pads are really bedded in is normal because the pad surface isn't flat against the rotor yet.
The two main cures I've found for squealing brakes are realigning the caliper to the rotor (related to above comment) and cleaning the rotor. Other stuff: I've had some mechanic friends try sanding the pads with mixed success. Make sure there's no crap embedded in the pads. Finally, all else fails, clean the rotor very well and replace the pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
No grease near rotors or pads ever ever ever. Keep your pads clean.
heh
I spill fork or brake oil on my pads all the time. Just gotta burn it off with some good ass draggin brake hanging sections.
Can't say I remember any grease incidents though.
If I replaced rotors with pads I'd be fucking broke.
Clean your rotors with alcohol once in a while. True with a crescent wrench. They should last for years. They have minimum thickness printed on them (sometimes)
I used to be able to wear the IceTech rotors down to the alloy core. That's always gratifying.
Quoting myself because I'm an an expert. Or stayed in a Holiday Inn last night...Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Replaced the worn down Schwalbe with a Maxxis Tomahawk that I had (came with the bike, thought I'd use the older Schwalbe first since it was sitting around for a couple of years). Tomahawk doesn't look like a tire I'd choose to buy, as the center knobs don't look great, and the side knobs are inexplicably shaped - but very well supported down the side.
One ride in, and it's like a whole new bike, even on loose rocky stuff that I thought it wouldn't grip well on at all. Happy.
TL;DR - Schwalbe sucks.
That Tomahawk looks like a tire that was designed in MS paint using clip art. Which Schwalbe tire did it replace?
IIRC it was a Nobby Nic.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Which, yeah... sucks giant donkey nuts.
But I'm very surprised that a Tomahawk is much better. Must be the compound. 'Cause you're right about the tread. My wife has one as a rear tire, and it's fine for her use, since she doesn't corner, or go fast, or ride any rox. :D
Oh god.
Someone get Chupacabra a real tire. What wheel size are we talking here?
That simple uh? I have 2 slightly bent rotors and I've been aligning the calipers to get around the issue because I'm worried if I start trying to bend the rotor back I'll end up with a huge wobble.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Guess I'll give the crescent wrench a try tonight...
IIRC, he rides loose over hard for the most part.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I have no suggestions...
:D
Be careful and go slow, but that works pretty well if you're methodical about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
But yeah, if you fuck it up you can make a mess too. :D
If it's 26" I for sure have some charity tires to keep him from dying. Maybe 27.5" too, I'd have to dig through the pile.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Helps to drink while you do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I happen to like the Nobby Nic as a rear tire for out west... good combo of decent grip and fast rolling.
And by the 5th ride, it rolls even faster because all the knobs have ripped off.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
Been on nobby nics since 2006. Never a knob ripped off. I'm so tired of this discussion. Early dampfs had issues. Let it go. It isn't 2006 anymore.
Almost as bad as the old Maxxis Mobsters, except Maxxis fixed that problem...20 years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
The Dirty Dan is the only tire that they make that I like at all, so I'm hardly a fanboy, but it does seem like their newer addix rubber has at least solved the magic disappearing Schwalbe side knobs of old.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
They've still got a lot to answer for tread pattern wise though.
Both of these tips are right on target. Slow and methodical.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Clean both the rotor and pads well w denatured alcohol before attempting to straighten and make sure all appropriate bolts are snug.
I protect the rotor with one or two layers of paper towel before applying the wrench. Takes a few tries to get the feel for how much pressure to apply. I try to focus bending energy on the area near the rotor spoke if possible.
I don’t shoot for perfection, just try to get them straight enough to not rub at all. My test is, will the wheel spin out and fall back to the hub pawl when rotation stops. Good luck.
Rob
Slow and methodical is how you start. Then you realize your tiny "adjustments" aren't doing shit, so you get frustrated, and do some real bending. Now, I just skip past slow and methodical straight to real bending.
Which is why I mentioned that it helps to be drinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
If you ride Moab every day, sure. But the new Addix compound is a legit improvement.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Here’s something for you... all flats on our Chasing Epic trips this year have been a Maxxis Aggressor rear tire. Not a single Schwalbe. :)
Another data point. Here are 3 leftover Nobby Nics. Previous generation which wore out more quickly. Pace Star triple compound. Most worn on the right, least on the left. Show me one single torn off knob.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f705889f3b.jpg
Here is the previous generation Dampf that had the reputation of tearing off knobs. Just a less attractive wear pattern IMO because of the Trail Star compound
Second photo is Pace Star. Wearing just fine.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...59a7f83633.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7f8cbf955d.jpg
New generation Dampf. Super Gravity orange compound. Wear from being rear tire
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...df3ddc2f4a.jpg
Magic Mary
Left is first generation super gravity. Still kicking ass as a front tire
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2b55d53880.jpg
I've got Wicked Will, Muddy Mary, and Big Betty DH tires to show as well. Schwalbe no longer makes them but no torn knobs on those as well.
I'm always curious about people who say "I've ridden <insert shitty tire> for YEARS at 18psi, and I weigh 240lbs geared up, and I've never had a flat or lost any knobs."
HOW THE FUCK DO THEY PULL THIS OFF??
WRT to those Schwalbes: those pics do illustrate Schwalbe's knob-vomit fairly well. :D
Except its still happening to $90 Schwalbe tires. Just had to swap out a 10 ride old Hans Dampf at the shop, all cornering knobs were rendered useless.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
GapingQuote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Apparently you must be doing "it" wrong... whatever "it" is. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
Having (foolishly) attempted to keep up with simple while riding, I can only assume that his tire wear experience does not apply to the rest of us because he levitates over everything.
There's something to be said for simply airing over everything. Especially sharp, pointy rocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Yes, but I also struggle with people who constantly cut sidewalls and declare EXO fragile garbage.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
I suppose this is all the true embodiment of YMMV.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I don't cut sidewalls, but I'll pinch-flat EXO nine ways to Sunday. At least as a rear tire. Every time I rim-strike the HR2 I have in the back of my bike, I cringe... and wait for the tell-tale "pshhhhhhhhhhhhh" sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
Yeah, me too. Had my first sidewall slash in a really long time earlier this year, and it was because I was riding like an idiot through sharp rocks. Pinch flats are the problem, though I've had better luck running higher pressure and inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
I have all those extea tires because once Super Gravity came out I could ride a trail like Apex in Golden or Cpt Jack's in Moab and not give a fuck. I like traction. Dampf rules in Moab. Super grip but nice smooth rolling edge. You can climb up a wall like spider man. Magic Mary F/R next week in Mexico. Calling for rain. Gonna be awesome.