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Another handy trick for handling AQS is saliva. A little spit on the finger allows a person to manipulate, smooth, and excite the AQS without it sticking to your finger. As in other things, repeated application may be necessary for the bigger jobs. DenQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Saliva also works on vaginas. AQS does not.
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I recommned something ribbed for pleasure
Spit is gona let you move AQS around without it sticking to your finger BUT the stuff takes hrs to cure and you have to keep it in place during that curing process so how do you keep it in place ?
AQS is so tenacious that it will even stick to a ski boot, in this app I wanted a big glob in a specific place so I would make a little dam out of tape to hold the AQS in place while it cured, this is pretty scraped up right now and I havent redone it cuz I don't really telemark anymore
Attachment 284799
Used shoe goo to fix a jersey after a crash.
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Thanks.
I try to not leave enough AQS to flow. I have discovered that AQS (now marketed as Aquaseal+FD) is extremely tough and requires a very thin coverage. I have also discovered that a couple thin layers work better than a thick layer. In most of my uses the first layer is usually Seam Seal ( now marketed as Seam Grip+WP) and this is usually applied as thin as possible, with no chance of flowing, followed by a thin layer of AQS after it has cured. Most of this type applications are for wet suit, dry suit, and work gloves. The thin layers helps to protect dexterity. This method also works for Xtra-Tough boots and waders. If I need a slightly thicker layer I do indeed rely on gravity, tape dams, and coming back periodically to wet finger it back in place, to keep it where it is needed. I will be giving the plastic wrap a test drive and appreciate the tip. DenQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
How you discovered this I find slightly disturbing, but I must admit when it comes to most things, exploring one's boundary can be enlightening. DenQuote:
Originally Posted by mtnwriter
The secret which you have already discovered is to use less product and you can always do another layer, instead of ending up with a big fugly/globby repair
IME no matter how thin you try to apply, left on a flat surface liquid ureathane is SELF LEVELING and cures with a smoove shinny surface, which is why i use the plastic to control it
but I would suggest trying a thin plastic bag instead of Saran wrap because the Saran wrap always ends up stuck in the dry AQS which looks shitty but IME a thin plastic bag will be strong enough to be pulled out of the AQS and not end up stuck in your repair
SO a tip to deal with the surface finish, if you want a matte finish on product that has dried shinny just rub it with a little bit of AQS on a rag, leave it to cure and the surface will be matte
here is the remains of a very old fix on a pair of now dead Blundstones, you can see the 1" long old cut in the toe I did when it was still a nice shoe, fairly deep but not thru the leather, so I dabbed a little AQS in the bottom of the cut with a toothpick and taped it shut edges together with masking tape, after about 8 hrs it was partialy cured/sticky enough that so pushing the edges together they did stick, wipe away any excess with acetone or tolulene and at the time it wasnt perfect but actualy looked ok to pretty good and all these years later its still there
Attachment 284858
I put a ski pole tip gash in the toe of a leather tele boot way back in the day it was not thru but nasty looking, so a little AQS in the hole, let it mostly cure, push it around a bit with my thumb to level which filled the hole and also left the finish matte, it looked pretty good definatley way better than a big hole
AQS is great for lots of repairs. When I need something more rubberized and a little stiffer, I've been using Sugru, which is pretty cool stuff. Goes on like a soft putty, hardens into a firm but flexible silicone rubber, and bonds to just about anything.
I heard of Sugru but have never used it, googling I can see it would work well on things AQS doesn't work well for
as in its a moldable rubber so the apps look like you use it to put rubber on something hard
whereas in almost every fix in the last 2 pages AQS was used to very permanently fix or join something flexible
I duno if i would try it on a dry suit ?
also wonder about price if i have to use a lot of the stuff ?
Yeah, I wouldn't use Sugru on a drysuit; like you said, better for things that you want a little flexibility in to prevent cracking, but don't want too much. Like, I lost an earbud cover for an oddly shaped set of headphones and used Sugru to mold a new one. I used it to add bumps to stereo buttons that I use a lot so I can find them easily in dim light. Etc.
still you got me intrigued about Sugru and I will probably try some but likely not for any app I have already written about in these 2 pages
My project today is to fix my leaky Patagonia waders. Way back when I bought them included in the box was a tube of Patty-branded AQS. I hope this stuff is still good. Waders and goo tube are both approx 20 years old. Will report back later...
After reading the GearAid comparisons of their sealants, I'm giving Seam Grip & a cut up mattress patch for extra reinforcing a go to repair a tear in my OR Trailbreakers. I hope it works. The smell brings back model airplane/glue sniffing memories. The process also reminds be of using liquid bandage:
Attachment 305486
I might leave the painter's tape on for a few outings ;):
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Inside view:
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Test fit of patch strips:
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Applying the sealant:
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Applied and burnished strips curing:
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Has anyone simply tried using Tenacious Tape on this type of repair?
I have done a similar repair only using aquaseal on my old Moonstone gortex pants that got ripped by barbed wire fence.
I taped the outside with duct tape and applied aquaseal on the inside and laying on flat surface. Let cure over night, peel off the tape next day.
It held for years until I got too fat to wear the pants any more.
I had an internal pocket seam come apart on a pair of trew 3L pants. Aquaseal'd it with saran wrap backer and its held fine for over a season, even with keeping my keys in the pocket.
looks OK, your fix will be cured overnightQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
I find what Tenacious tape is great for is puffy jackets that are shedding feathers, but its really just clear tape with ok stick but I don't think it will be PERMANENT
Whereas AQS will be stuck forever to whatever you put it on
Thanks XXXer! This repair feels pretty bomber:
Attachment 305573
Didn't wade through the entire thing but AQs and its relatives are $$$,
Using a pair of Merrill light hikers that the toe rubber came off from the fabric. $ 100 shoes that had lotta life left.
I bought a tube, put the tube in hot water to get it flowy, cleaned the rubber and fabric and applied the AQs. Once I had it where I wanted it, cover the area with a sandwich bag and put some weight on it and let dry. Once dry the sandwich bag peels right off. Made the repair in June, still going strong and will outlast the rest of those crappy shoes.
Great thread.
Thats cuz it IS totally bomber and you didn't have to sew a fucking thing ehQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
everyone should have a tube of this stuff on the go for repairs, once its been open AQS will store in the freezer in a sealed glass jar for at least a year, when you wana use it just put it in a cup of boiling water for 10 minutes and yer good to go
Thats cuz it IS totally bomber and you didn't have to sew a fucking thing ehQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
everyone should have a tube of this stuff on the go for repairs, once its been open AQS will store in the freezer in a sealed glass jar for at least a year, when you wana use it just put it in a cup of boiling water for 10 minutes and yer good to go
The thread is a tutorial on everything I know about how to use AQS, as the gear repair guy at a large rescue 3 provider I work on hundreds of dry suits a year, I will go thru a couple of 8oz tubes a year ...you may want to read the whole thing and learn shitQuote:
Originally Posted by Marmot or Fox
Great thread here guys! I’m on a few repairs today and stoked to see the success.
Tenacious tape = field repair
My experience is that it will start cracking in the cold after a bit.
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Awesome. I've been thinking about looking for something like this for a while now. Like u said, the create little bumps on various items. 'puter keyboard keys like volume buttons for easy brailing when fumbling with computer in the dark, a bigger bump on the Smith fan goggle on/off switch for better tactile feel with gloves on, automotive remote buttons, etc...Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravenmorhead
How's the durability?
Edit; the stuff's kindof expensive. Just googled substitutes and found a home made hack. Just silicone and corn starch. Noted this caveat though...maybe it'll stick better with aggressive scoring and sterilization of target bonding surfaces? "On a few things like some plastics and metals, it will easily peel off after it has cured."
Sounds too good to be true but for what it's worth:
https://www.instructables.com/id/How...ru-Substitute/
Were the patch strips helpful for this repair or pointless? Seems like your steel wool in epoxy hack, having aQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
'reinforcing/bonding' component can't hurt and might help, eh?
Tenacious tape on the big holes in puffy jackets, for the small holes hit them with Matt finish clear mail polish, a quick n easy repairQuote:
Originally Posted by riff
The danger is if you leave the bottle around and your wife or GF asks who does this belong to ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
backing is never pointless but it might be so thick it alters the feel of the repaired area, in that respect I can't really tell how thick/stiff is the backing material you used
I like the spent fabric softener sheets from the dryer because it can be rescued from the laundry room garbage can, its very strong but with a really soft feel, you can squeegee the AQS right thru it, put a piece of plastic bag over the area and roll it flat
another good backing material would be super thin nylon, like the really thin nylon that running shorts are often made of
sometimes you can go with out backing like i did on page 1 to repair super thin gortex pants, to do that you would tape the outside, squeeze on some AQS, cover with plastic bag, roll it out flat and let cure
and just to clarify I don't use steel wool with epoxy to fix spinners, I chop up FG cloth into 1/2 " lengths and mix it with enough epoxy to wet out the FG but not be too resin rich becuz resin alone is not as strong
Thanks, maybe I will but I have been doing dry suit gasket repairs since the mid-80s as well as other uses for AQs. Not like this is rocket surgery.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marmot or Fox
When the "how do I fix this" question has somebody suggesting dental floss and bathtub sealer I thot it was time for the repair thread, no its not rocket biology but there are tricks, things to not do, better ways to use AQS, so if you got ideas share them with the class eh
last week I glued in half a doz neck seals, a few socks some wrist seals and patched the crotch in an ice suit ... my cock is bigger than your cock eh
The strips were thin nylon mattress patches.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
My bad on the steel wool. Have you used silca/glass beads (or whatever it's called per Gflex & golf shaft replacements) with epoxy as a thickener?
steel wool would probably work but then if it wasn't completely encased in the epoxy I assume it would rust which doesn't seem like the best idea, I had some FG cloth kicking around so thats what I used, not sure about how strong/ the structure silica/glass beads would give to a ski ??Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Half of my HW gig in another life was fixing stuff in remote places so when I need to fix something I look around me for whats available, it could be paper clips/ staples/cut up spare parts from a different piece of HW whatever gets me out the door, which is how I end up using the dryer sheets on soft repairs, cutup 1/2" FG strands/epoxy to fix spinners in skis, BBQ skewers to plug binding holes, sometimes I will just wander around a HW store looking for stuff that I can alter to fix something else
Props to the tutorial. Feels natural to AQS.
The Aquawoo is strong with this thread.
XXXer (or anyone who knows first hand): does AQS stick to "disposable" shopping bags (UHMW, IMS) or do they peel like the sandwich bags? TIA
Never tried them so not sure
Hey XXX-er; ever use a glue gun to repair cuts in jackets/pants?
Had to perform emergency surgery up in bell 2 and all i had on hand was glue gun with gorilla glue gun sticks.
Hasty hack job before heading out the door. Globbed it on too thick. 9 days of ski touring later and it's looking day one fresh...and it's somewhat flexible in cold temps. Wonder if it's gonna hold?
Attachment 310542
Is there any other kind ?!Quote:
Originally Posted by swissiphic
I have never used hot glue to fix clothing but I would have taped the outside together and put the glue on the inside
hey XXX'er
Two weeks worth of testing out this experiment. Windstopper fleece gloves with multiple failed seams and holes from from wear in many finger tip contact points. Repaired/restored with the glue gun.
Works awesome...the firmer contact points provide better tactile feedback when buckling boots/fiddling with zippers and shit.
And the repair/restore was so efficient..no waiting for shoe goo to dry for example. Instant fix.
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I use AQS to extend the life of gloves so maybe hot glue will also work but no experiance with that but would it have killed you to wait overnight for AQS to cure ?
in any case the name of the thread is " fix your own fucking gear with AQS eh " and so this thread is an attempt to put all the best practices of using liquid urethane in one spot so folks will then have info to do the best possible best looking permanent job
you should start a fix you onw gear with hot glue thread
Waiting for urethane to cure/dry sux ballz....you gotta ensure curved surfaces stay flat, add layers which takes even more time, etc....Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Just offering options for experimentation for those who are more open minded. No worries, I'll refrain from contaminating your aqs purist thread henceforth.
So I'm going to take that as a " yes it would have killed me to wait for AQS to cure " so if you don't like curing AQS or AQS in general why are you writing in a thread devoted to the non-mediocre use of said product ?
In any case one deals with the curing process of AQS using plastic bags on curved or flat surfaces and BTW its in the 4 pages of this thread, i don't know if that would work with hot glue, i don't have a hot glue gun, maybe you want to try it yourslef or maybe you don't care ... I duno
In the past I have called something you offered me " half baked " which you didnt like, so if you put your own ideas in your own thread ... its yours