Tech toes would be huge overkill & mo money
maybe not having to buy skate boots if you already own something else ?
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Tech toes would be huge overkill & mo money
maybe not having to buy skate boots if you already own something else ?
I scanned the video. He says the dynafits are not the best way to go. Talks about putting bungy to hold the heel down.i think he uses them as he has his boot set up for expeditions and can switch from ski to skate. Also knows how the ski boot performs in cold and wet.
For me mostly about not owning more boots; I’ve tried the bungy and it’s not that useful. I daydream about traverses including ice but so far it’s just fall outings before snow flies.
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Bumping this old thread with a question or two...
Are there design aspects I might not be aware of between different brands or models? Or are they all basically just flat blades with an upturned tip?
Seems like the cheapest place I can find them is ourdoorxl but I don't know what I'm looking at and the differences are not really highlighted.
Any sizing tips other than the generic sizing guides i can find online?
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I can’t say much about different brands/models; but I think the steel is notably better and will stay sharp longer on the more spendy ones.
I’d say thesize tradeoffs are much like skis, essentially maneuverability vs stabilty and speed. I originally had 50cm, passed them on to my brother and got 55cm. They are faster but not as easy/fun to turn.
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I think riff is right about steel, keep in mind harder steel stays sharp longer but can be more challenging to sharpen.
I'm no expert, but in the handful I've seen the amount of rocker also varies. I imagine more rocker is better for shittier ice.
I inherited a pair of lundhags and on good black ice they fucking haul. Fun times. You need a lot more space than hockey skates though.
I use both my SNS -BC boots and skate ski boots. Both work well. The skate ski boots are lighter and flex easier, so better for high speed skating, where you get down lower. The BC boots have a similar plastic exo skeleton on the ankle, but are much beefier. Heavier, but comfier, warmer and much better to hike in. Better for long tours with bigger hikes, and more casual speeds where you are more upright.
The 55 will be fine.
I tried a bungee and found the tips were too long, if the tails pop up you have to work harder to keep from snagging the tips.
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You can buy stiffer flexors for the bindings, which I assume are designed to keep your heel closer to the tail of the skate, if not totally in contact?
https://ermineskate.com/product/rott...rm-red-flexor/
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my bike/ ski/ skate buddy and a true technician who sold the blades to me said " it doesn't matter just use any xc ski binding " so I supose YMMV but even using an old pair of SNS bindings from used kids XC skis which have to be the most flaccid bumper available I didn't find a probelm with heel return,
Skate blades with more rocker turn faster, my russian buddy the figure skating coach showed me his skates for ice dancing whichare rockered with only 5" of blade on the ice
First day out on the blades this year. It’s been super warm this fall, but with a little cold snap the last three days, found a little alpine Lake at the local ski resort that was solid enough for a little session. Attachment 502873
Attachment 502872
Missed the question last year about the different blades. I ended up getting a couple of different Isvidda blades five years ago. Pretty sure one is 48 cm and the other 55 cm. Always preferred the longer ones as they are faster and smoother. If you are stuck with a tiny pond, that would be the only reason to go shorter. I have used NNN BC and skate boots. Unless you plan on expeditions, skate boots are ideal for normal use. Light, stiff and warm enough.
Ended up getting a pair of Zandstra blades last year and absolutely love the platform. Just a better steel that requires less sharpening. Highly recommended!
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I was surprised to find the small lakes above 7k ft are ready to go here- medium and large lakes not yet. It’s a haul to get to them so I will have to circle back a bit later, but glad to see it!Attachment 502893
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I think you might find a you tube on sharpening nordic blades but consider the blade is 1/2 the width of a hockey blade is not hollow grind and the blade angles are 90 degree so I think they can be sharpened by making a jig out of 2x4 and using a sharpening stone
I knew kid who raced short track and she was constantly sharpening her skates in a special jig but she was leaned over 45degrees making turns in a hockey rink
I have never sharpened my nordic blades
Regular speed skates (not short track) use a very simple jig that clamps both skates at the same time, then you use a large flat stone resting on both to sharpen both at the same time. This is what creates the 90 degree edges.
So, yes, should be easy to make.
Here is the Nordic blade version:
Attachment 502939
https://zandstrasport.nl/producten/n...ijptafel-7129/
yeah I'm pretty sure a nordic blade user could figure some thing out without having to spring for the jig but yeah kid had a very specific jig for speed skates so she would be running the sharpening stone over the 2 edges at the same time
the last town I lived in was somewhat of a speed skating hotbed, there was of course the shortrack club, but also after i left they built a long track speed skating oval,
when i was there I knew a couple of guys with ties to a speedskating past who were very into doing laps on a 1 km oval, they were like forget the nordic blades and get real clap skates which i never did
so we would borrow my GF's quad with a blade plow out a 1km oval on a lake out side of town, blast a reefer and go skating