What ropes are people climbing on these days?

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Originally Posted by trogdortheburninator

For quick ski belays and cuts, I find standard ATC use is pretty good on the 5.5-6mm skinnies. For steeper raps, I’ve found that stuffing both ropes into a single slot gives immensely more control than the double-biners, and doesn’t require the extra gear. I was using an already small DMM bugette, and the control improvement for a single notch was significant.

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Thanks. I've heard that. There's no added stress to the ATC is there?
Have you used this technique on free raps (off overhanging terrain)?
And what are you using for a prusik?

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Originally Posted by rod9301

Super munter works really well on skinny ropes, or even a single skinny rope and it doesn't twist it

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Thanks. I need to practice that one.

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Originally Posted by LeoK

From this season on I will use a RAD Line by Petzl for the intended use on ski tours: rappels and Glacier Travel.

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Report back!

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Originally Posted by hafjell

Report back!

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I’m interested in where folks are purchasing their RAD lines. Retail price is a bit steep.

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Originally Posted by Bronco

I’m interested in where folks are purchasing their RAD lines. Retail price is a bit steep.

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Me too. I haven't seen any deals. I suspect Petzl didn't over-produce, and they haven't come out with an update so the stock can sit for a year at the shop and not go into the sale bin.

i still crag and TR with ~10.5 60m,
skinny ropes stretch too much
and dont last long.......

on the other hand,
i like ~9.6
for a redpoint max.....

back to the food, drink
and women.

If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5

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Originally Posted by Bronco

If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5

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I thought about getting this for autoblock.

Is it supple?

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Originally Posted by Bronco

If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5

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Brilliant. Thanks for the tip. Does it release fine?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bronco

If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5

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I've been using one of these guys for the past couple seasons as a back up for single line raps and while developing routes. It's easy to get distracted by one of the 45 things dangling off the harness and constantly getting tangled and pull a dumb move like rapping off the end or locking the grigri open and zipping down. That thing has saved my ass a couple times and makes pulling back up a few feet really easy. I've tested it on a 8mm static and it grips really well. Good to hear that it works on 6 mm although I think my favorite rope option for skiing remains a 7.5ish mm dynamic 30 m line. It's super light, very packable, and doesn't shock possibly shitty anchors as much since it's so stretchy. Plenty of friction with a single micro-locker and a belay plate on an overhanging rap.

I like the Beal sewn prussik a little more than the sterling if you have the opportunity to put your hands on both. I can't vouch for how it grabs on super skinny ropes though it should work at 5.5mm. I think the strength rating is a lot higher than the sterling too.

I have the Beal prussic as well and you're right that it's stronger. 22kn for the Beal and 16.4kn for the hollow block. However, the hollow block grips and releases better on the 6mm and just about every other rope/cord I've tried it on. It's heat resistant as well.

70m 9.4 Mammuts

For alpine and ice climbing I use a 70m Mammut Serenity 8.7mm dry rope and I'll bring a 7mm tag line if I need the double rope rap. I love the rope. It's really light and easy to manage. It's about 2 years old and still going strong.

70m 9.4 Mammuts

I have Sterling Evolution Velocity 9.8mm

I'm quite fond of the beal gullys for alpine route. Sport lead and single rope trad I'm liking anything in the 9.4-9.6 range, i don't think the thinner rope adversely affects lifespan.

I've climbed on a bunch of different brands and of course it comes down to personal preference. That being the case, I really like mammut ropes...seem to strike the perfect balance between soft/workable and durability. No complaints

I did not think that there would be so many types of ropes, I only knew the mammoth and it was there, now I am going to check online stores and reviews about ropes to see which one best suits the type of mountains that I normally climb

Speaking of ropes, if anybody has any retired ropes they want to get rid of, I am looking for some to make rugs of. If you have a couple, I will make one into a rug for you if you want.

Have ALOT of retired ropes, SoCal pickup? Hate shipping

Yeah, I am in Ventura and willing to drive for pick up and to buy you a beer.