I am speaking for myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
You don’t need them but they are nice to have sometimes.
TGR man, all opinions
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I am speaking for myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
You don’t need them but they are nice to have sometimes.
TGR man, all opinions
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
3rd winter on unstudded Nokian Hakkapeliitta, tread depth says 60% but not getting nearly the same traction. Running them at 30ish PSI on an F150. Had a couple of pucker inducing moments that has me debating replacing them or running them through the winter and get new snow tires next fall. Any better snow tires out there? I wasn't real impressed with these and may go back to blizaks.
I'm about to order the DMV2 Blizzaks again, they were the best truck snow I ran. I think you pick that or the Hakks and be a jerk about what one is better here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco
It’s not a truck. If it’s 4wd it doesn’t need snow tires…maybe get a forester.
I like the DMV2 (on my wife's SUV now). The LT is a better fit if the truck has a higher payload (3/4 ton). Falken AT3W is the best, non-dedicated, snow that I have found. I've sold a f-ton of them and they're on my truck now.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
The first post was correct. Get smaller wheels. 18's would be a solid choice.
As to TPMS, Autel (and other companies) make programmable sensors that work for almost every vehicle. You need to buy their tool to program them. Some (most) vehicles are very easy. Toyota and newer GM vehicles are outliers. BOTH have to be programmed with sensor ID's. GM you have to ID the sensors when you rotate tires (super annoying). (Some) BMW and VW/Audi have the best (passive) system, IMO. They just monitor for differences in wheel speed. They should all be that way. BMW pioneered it way back in the mid 90's. So simple, zero hardware.
Oh, those Autel sensors can be had on Amazon for $25/ea. I sell them, programmed for $50/ea. Relatively cheap.
I've got an Autel MS909 and it'll reprogram the TPMS sensors. I'm not really sure how to do it myself, but I'm sure it isn't too hard. I have 5 vehicles nd the only vehicle that doesn't have a tpms sensor lit up is the '01 Sequoia because it doesn't have one. haha
Just put some E rated Wildpeak AT3s on my Tundra w/ camper. Hope to get to try it out in some snow soon, if it ever snows. Ugh.
My work truck has Mastercraft Glacier studless snows that I really like.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowMachine
Any insight into which Falken tires have 3 ply sidewalls aka DURASPEC?
I'm considering the AT4 in a load range E, 275-65-18 for my Tundra.
Yeah, that model will definitely have three ply.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner
I have the AT3s on my Tundra and they have been great so far. I have a slide in camper on it. Not the best snow/ice performance, but good enough considering.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Name Redacted
Thank you.
I would agree in many places in the US that good AT tires with good tread can work just fine for 90% of snow situations. I never ran true snow tires for hundreds of storms in CO driving around the state.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperChief
Up here in Hoth when the canyon is -30*F and the huge blades of big plow trucks are just skipping off the top of diamond hard white packed ice??? Yeah.....I am glad I run studded Hakkas. It makes a MASSIVE difference when the conditions are like that. And they just make normal snow a lot more comfortable to drive too.
I think a ton of people don't understand it until they drive a vehicle with Blizzaks or Hakkas and see how massively different it is than even good AT tires.
So trueQuote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I’ve only been up there once. And I was on brand new Falken Wilpeaks. They did ok but yeah, planet Hoth with -20F and pure ice roads, I drove like grandpa. Studded snows would be my only choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
That was a hell of an experience in February.
I used to practise a revolutionary driving technique calledQuote:
Originally Posted by Sylvan
slowing down
10 kph above the limit in summer 10 kph below the limit in winter no cruise controland studded Haks always worked 99% of the time
I'm spending big time on haks this afternoon
I have been running 285/65/20 K02 on my truck. No one can seem to find either a snow tire or rim to accommodate my wheels. The main problem is the size of my front brakes. I am running Brembo 6 piston calipers 380X34 (15") 2 piece discs. I can'Without replacing the brakes, I can't run on smaller wheels.Attachment 503820
Attachment 503821
I have been told that the discs are too large for snow tires. Having said that newish K02s seem to work fine.
" Cost of LT Blizzaks is too close to the Haks "
back in the day GF wanted snow tires for her very cheap 88 corrola, I said well for a cheap car just get these cheaper tires (forget the brand ) she said well what do you run I want the best too ? So we put Haks/ rims on the car that were worth > the car and I could see she was right
Haks/ steel rims/ lug nuts will be just narth of 2700 $ this afternoon so pay the man, cha-ching !
Hakka LT3s come in 275/65-20Quote:
Originally Posted by schindlerpiste
https://na.nokiantyres.com/snow-wint...apeliitta-lt3/
I feel like you've told this same anecdote in every winter tire thread, multiple times in each thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
and thats just on this blog, but not the price of tires for a Tundra cuz its new,
is it wrong or you don't like it ?
if even one person decides buying real snow tires and not killing themselves its worth the pedantic snow tire posts
So, I guess that I should determine the wheel width, but I think the guy at Burt Bros told me that they would not fitQuote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
Quote:
Originally Posted by schindlerpiste
You know, you can get those blockier treads siped at better tire places.
Big mud and snow lugs that aren't all that on smoother slippery surfaces can be brought to a better grip level by having them siped at Les schwab or such.
It's not as ideal as a factory sipe but can make yours better lacking options...
I was gona try hak SUV's but they don't come in my size and i wouldn't save that much $$$
The first number in the tire size, "275", is the width of the tire across the tread in millimeters. So 275 vs 285 is 10mm narrower. 275/65R20 will fit all day long.Quote:
Originally Posted by schindlerpiste
The two rear K02s are brand new and the front treads are at ~12mm. Siping seems to be an option for older worn tires. I always thought that the softer rubber compound is what makes snow tires special. Siping is interesting. While the K02s have never given me a problem in snow, the consensus is that snows are much better than winter rated all terrain, which the K02s are.
Travis, I think that we are talking rim size, not tire size. I think that a 275 can fit on a rim that is 7.5-9.5", while a 285 will fit on a rim that is 8-10". I believe that my rims are 10"
Need a 7.5”-9.5” wide rim for the 275.Quote:
Originally Posted by schindlerpiste
Attachment 503824
https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/285-65R20.htm
I see what you are saying about rim size, but I still think those tires would not be problem on a 10" rim. If you really want winter tires the 275/65R20 is your option. But honestly the KO2 is a pretty good tire on the snow.
You are correct about winter tires being built with rubber compounds that remain soft in temperatures below 45F. And siping in their tread design. Having a tire siped is an option, but I would guess the tire companies won't do that to a used tire. Small rock in the tread would mess up the knife. My concern would be having a tire siped that wasn't designed to be siped. Most tire companies design tire sipes in winter tires with "3D" sipes help with tread squirm and dissipate heat and keep a soft tire safe. Siping any old tire might have unintended consequences.
It’s not just about being softer, the chemical composition changes as well. Chemical components that typically improve wet grip actually decrease ice grip, and vice versa. More advanced tire compounds balance those trade-offs better, which is one of the benefits of a premium winter tire vs. a budget one.
A buddy of mine siped some KOs one time (first gen, long time ago). They were super grippy, but iirc started chunking off pretty badly at low mileage. He also had a giant camper on the truck which was a nizzan frontier. It was pretty funny, but he made it work pretty well for years.
Hakka LT3 275-65-28, non studded, Load Range E. US$409 list each, although there is a $20/tire rebate through Nov.
My studded haks are 60%f/40%r. By the numbers 40 is replacing zone, but driving the 60's felt...fine? Debating doing all 4 this year or trying to eek out a season.
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I drove my Hakka lt3 studless down to 50% last year and that was as far as I wanted to go. Up until then they were excellent.
If 285 is the minimum width to fit to the wheel, look at 285/45r20. They’re gonna be low profile. Or maybe a narrower 20” wheel, ie two sets of wheels.
Fucking Fuck.
I have newer studded snows with about 4k on them, 2 easy winters driving locally.
After paying $32 last week for a fucking valve stem core, I get a pinsize hole right where the tread meets the sidewall. Not really repairable.
Need a new tire. Originally got 4 on closeout for $275. A new single now starts at $175.
That’s repairable. Just do an inside patch.
fact.
Hakka LT3 - One shop quoted $342/tire, but mentioned it's buy 3, get 1 free btwn 11/26 and 12/2.
I went to 17" wheels for the g2.5 Tundra for snows. I wanted to narrow up. That made the Hakka 10 SUVs super cheap at $216ea before the rebate in 265/70/17 which is 31.6" and slightly narrower than stock 275 32" tires. 2679lbs of rated load per tire at a comfortable 35psi. No handling issues!
Hakka 10 SUV is a vastly superior snow and ice tire to any 3PMSF rated AT, worlds better than studdless like DMV2 I drove for 10 years, and markedly better than even the studded LT3 unless you desperately need the E rating and intend to run high tire pressures to achieve a high load rating. I don't. If I went LT3 I woulda gone even narrower.
People forget that E rated tires usually require 80psi to get the rated load (65 for e2). That is a fucking uncomfortable pressure for driving around without a ginormous load in your bed. Folks should use a tire pressure / load calculator to see if their E rated tire can handle their truck at desirable road pressures.
I thought studdless was fine for 15 years, then I went Hakka 10 two winters ago... never going back to studdless.
If you think the KO2 is a good winter tire, then I don't know what the fuck to tell you except you don't know what you don't know. That wasn't even true 9 years ago. In 2015 they were better than most ATs, though still inferior to much older GY Wranglers SAs. KO2s are total crap compared to even studdless snows. The KO3 is better than KO2, but not worlds better, just like the AT3W is markedly better in snow/ice (and a better ride) than its AT4W replacement unless you truly needed that heavy duty load/hauling and mean to run high pressures to get it.
Nokian Outpost nATs in 285/75/18 with its all weather compound but burly carcass and E rating in a 34.8" diam will be my all weather AT summer ride, extends the Hakka 10s life and keeps me good in desert shoulder season. Should fit the Tundra with minimal/no mods using stock 18s with their -60 offset. Nokian OUtpost nATs are by all reports far and away the best AT tire out there for winter conditions, even better than the discontinued AT3W.
On siping, I think I'd look at siping a GY tire since many of theirs are not full depth siping from the factory, which causes remarkably falloffs in winter performance early in their wear cycle. But buying a tire plannning to sipe it means you probably should have picked a better suited tire to begin with!
Quote:
Originally Posted by m2711c
I was kinda thinking on this myself.
If you or any of the mags who actually work on tires could give me any more info on best procedure and any past successes or failures, I'd be stoked. Feel free to PM me.
I switched the rear studded snow to the front, and put on one of my very new summer wheels onto that rear until I get it figgered.
Thanks for some semblance of hope on this most hopeless of days...
:nonono2:
Everything I’ve ever seen has said that only punctures towards the center of the tread are repairable. Even a puncture in the area of the outermost tread lugs is deemed irreparable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained
Maybe with a pinhole it’s worth trying since hopefully a failure doesn’t lead to rapid air loss - and possibly a crash…
Yeah this is the thing... mostly it's just tooling to the ski area on flat easy roads in the winter. That, I might chance.
It's the going on a roadtrip in the winter in the Rockies that is questionable and I don't wanna have a blowout in shite weather, or any weather for that matter.
I might just try and find a good used snow tire in my size and call it good until spring.
On the other hand, I gotta believe a well done patch or blob of rubber glue inside, might do it.
Plug + internal patch. Find someone who will do it on the side.
The worst that can happen is that it will leak again.