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Can you point me to the Naxo jpg you found?Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
Regarding, using the plates to check conflicts with existing holes, I've been simply using a grease pencil in them to mark the ski. Using a punch has less slop and I'm wondering if dipping the tip in some kind of marking fluid would work better. Any ideas on non-permanent marking medium?
https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...nch__forum.jpg
No jpeg, but does this help?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
http://www.powderguide.com/community...anhang104.html
Thanks and nice. Now I won't bother drawing it up to create a PDF.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knut
Happy to help.
All "my" templates can be found here (unfortunately in German): http://www.powderguide.com/community...montieren.html
If i am not mistaken i should have a paper naxo template at home.
If it is of any help i could attempt to scan it or something.
I often just put a strip of white masking tape down on the ski and mark up the tape with a sharpie. YMMV.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Mounted two pair with the Jigarex now, love it.
Only made one mod to the 'Rex: I added two of those 1/4" rubber self-adhesive foot pads to each end of the frame (to hold the frame up off the ski a bit), so it doesn't rock back and forth on the ski.
Nice mod ideaQuote:
Originally Posted by 1000-oaks
Mounted ION bindings, went well.
Mounted Marker Tours (together with my wife, on her skis). With a small BSL the rear end of the plate hit a rivet on the side of the jig frame. This meant we could only just get boot center over the mount line. Probably ended up 2 mm forward of the line. I should have grinded the corner off the plate to accommodate the rivet, allowing me to move the plate back a bit more. I could move it along way forward, but not back any more. Also, part of the frame binding instructions is written as though the plate is in two parts, Not a big deal, but it could confuse some people.
I also skied really good knee deep powder today.
Mounted some look pivot 14's on the wife's new sticks. Centered holes lined up etc. however it appears as though the boot sole length ended up being a bit "long". Ie: I cannot get forward pressure with the stems all the way in, maybe 5-6ml closer together on the jig would have helped. Anyone else run into this?
Any chance the bindings are "sticky" and forward pressure will correct after a couple days of skiing. I like to hope so. It's close enough (.5ml from the white tab lining up) that I'm going with it.
Killing it with the 3-5 year old crowd!
Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
When I mounted my P14's, I also had to turn the forward pressure in (shorten the stems) to where it is a few mm from being maxed out. Luckily it didn't actually bottom out before I got the forward pressure set to where it should be (ie. no side to side/rotating dildo slop).
This could be because the white forward pressure marker/tab on Pivots isn't really accurate for setting forward pressure. The jig may line up the tab with the dash-marks, but in my experience, this is too little forward pressure and there is a lot of dildo slop. From my tech knowledge and experience, using the tab/dashes is a starting point, then you have to increase pressure to eliminate dildo slop.
If the Jigarex was designed to line up the tab-dash forward pressure correctly, then this could be the difference that is causing the ffwd pressure to bottom out in some cases.
Don't use the white tab to determine forward pressure. They are notoriously unreliable.Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
Put boot in binding. Flip dildo halfway up (until horizontal). When forward pressure is set correctly the dildo should snap the rest of the way up from there on it's own. It may require just a little bit of downward pressure on the boot, but not much.
I love this jig. Two flawless mounts thus far. I am in Providence RI and have a Jigarex with Dynafit Beast and Salomon/Atomic STH 916 plates if anyone local wants to try the system out before they invest.
I've only had one hole "off" a bit due to not holding the drill vertical, so now I'm using the 'Rex with a drill press. A little slower, but not bad at all.
Used the Jiggyrex to determine hole conflict with inserts for a B16 onto my 192 BRO, I can go 2cm forward or 13mm back.
Looks like the Sollyfit plates are going back on. Saved me loads of hassle.
Score another one for Jiggyrex!
Mounted a bunch of skis, mostly dynafit. Most came out great. Lately I've been noticing that the jig doesn't center perfectly, ~2mm. I've also had a couple mounts where the toe is a bit cockeyed and makes it so that the heel pins don't line up exactly. I don't currently have the plates he has for dynafit adjustment plates, so I've been mounting the toes with a jig, then freehanding the adjustment plates. When I've done it this way there were a couple times when I had to offset the plate to one side because the toes were cockeyed. I've tried a bunch of test mounts and I haven't been able to figure out what's causing it. Have an email in to Dave, so I'm hoping I get it figured out. For alpine bindings where it doesn't matter too much if you're off by a couple mm I love it.
When I mounted my B16s I noticed one end of the Jiggyrex ski centering attachment seemed like it was hanging up. Some gentle persuasion got it to adjust correctly, seemed like something was hanging up internally.
^^^^Check my post on page 2 for one possible source of this issue...
I was able to "wiggle" it very slightly and it works fine. Similar to issue you had but not as bad and I recalled your post and did not force it.
Yeah, mine gets a little "sticky" every now & then, but I'm just carful to not force anything. Lift it off, massage it a bit, replace, and proceed. I'm using spring clamps on both end now to keep it as flush as possible though. No issues in about a dozen mounts.
I'm in St Paul, MN, and have Sali, Tyrolia/Head/Fischer, and NTN (pink) plates if anyone wants to watch/try/whatever.
Dun 10 with mine, all good mounts.
I am in mid Atlantic. Got STH, STH2, LOOK/ROSSI, DFIT TLT/RAD/B16.
Can help a mag out in need. Barter roolz apply.
FIFY! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by scottyb
Hot flashing gurl friends/sisters oar alternative comsumeables also accepted.Quote:
Originally Posted by axebiker
I have found this quite a bit. I used some soda can shims to get it straight again, but it isn't very consistent. I don't recommend it for high precision mounts(particularly rando race bindings)Quote:
Originally Posted by JTrue
FWIW I have 14+ mounts with the jig with most being dynafit type.
Just a shout out to Dave T for super awesome customer service. Contacted him about my Jiggy being slightly balky and he sent me a replacement no problem and sending the original back. WOOT!
Another bump for great customer service from Dave. Lightening quick response to my PM about getting some spare parts for my jig. In the mail < 24hrs later. Thanks mang.
Did a 22D VIce last week. Went off without a hitch.
Score another one!
So, which was it ...... 1 or 3??
Anyone in SF got one of these? Would love to try one.
This is fairly obvious, so it may not be the issue, but if you remove the knobs on the self-centering clamps, when you put them back, make sure the clamps are precisely aligned to find the center. If you're swigging from the can and re-tightening the knob at the same time, It is very easy for the clamps to be a notch off.Quote:
Originally Posted by timmaio
I haven't removed the knobs. The amount off is not that great. on the order of single digit millimeters. But it is enough to cause alignment issues with tech heelsQuote:
Originally Posted by dschane
Haven't got mine in front of me, but there's a small bolt/rivet head on the outside of the frame that may interfere with the plate for some BSL's. This causes the plate to be offset 1-2 mm's at rear when the plate slides over the bolt head.
It only caused a problem on one mount but took forever to find the problem.
Hey mags, I'm working on mounting plates for new bindings, and I'm looking for your wish lists. If there are any bindings that you'd like to see mounting plates for, send me a PM and I'll try to work it in.
Yup. I have Solly and Look plates, and I think Marker Duke plates as well. Send me a PM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
A couple updates. First, we'll have plates for some new bindings in a couple weeks, such as the Marker Kingpin and some new Dynafit offerings. Next, if anyone needs any replacement parts, let me know and I can send them out. Some of the bits and pieces of improved since the first generation, but it is easy to upgrade.
Won a Jigarex at the CAIC benefit in Breck the other night during the silent auction, super pumped. It came with Dynafit Radical 2 and Marker Kingpin plates. Located in Frisco, CO. Would love to trade plates for G3 Ion or Salomon STH2 if anyone is interested.
Quick question because I haven't had time to take it out of the box and fiddle with it yet, how are you guys stopping the drill bit from going too deep into the ski? I've done mounts with paper templates and have just marked off 9mm on the drill bit, but it doesn't look like that would work for the jigarex. Thanks!
The easiest way is to just spend the $15 bucks to get a properly stepped bit from SVST -- available via slidewright.com etc.
The janky way to do it is with a piece of masking tape/electrical tape. But it'll have to be pretty narrow to get through the Jigarex holes I would expect.
Davieboot of Jigarex and I of SlideWright.com provided the Jigarex binding system with plates for the auction. It should have been stated, that we'll exchange the plates for others if you send them back. Here is the return address.Quote:
Originally Posted by jvskinn
It probably was stated, but beer. Anywho, that's awesome! Thank you so much. I'll get these bad boys sent off to you asap!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Also, thanks for providing the jigarex, the benefit is such an awesome event and you guys are part of what makes it so great.
What he said. Tognar has the bits also, they are stepped to stop the bit from going any deeper and they will NOT bubble up the hole like a regular bit does. The bushings in the Jiga Rex plate are the exact size of these bits so the bit won't wander. You won a $230 Jiga Rex and $25 plate, spend $15.Quote:
Originally Posted by doebedoe