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Does the 14 require a heel fitting like the 16? Also, is there any way to use a heel modified beast friendly boot with any other binding? Or do I have to take the heel mod on and off to use with other clamps? I'm interested in being able to use vulcans with both radicals and beast, and my cochise with all of my bindings (beast, radical, vertical, lord/warden, Jester, STH, p18s)...
Is this even a possibility?
Yes. Yes. No. Answers are in Beast 16 thread - afraid you will have to readQuote:
Originally Posted by SupreChicken
Is the Radical 2.0 going to have the same mounting hole pattern as the current Radical? I was hoping to try and get a pair of Radical 2.0s this season, but if I have to run my current Radical this season, will the 2.0 match the holes, if I switch next season? Thx.
No. See previous page.Quote:
Originally Posted by ARpowhound
So I answered most of my questions.
Heel mod works fine for all tech bindings, you just have to adjust the heel gap back just a touch. Check the links to lee and marshal's reviews.
Still unclear to me if cramming the heel mod into a pair of lords of wardens is ok...but it seems to work for dukes, so it *should* work.
What is the actual weight of the beast 14 in grams/foot?
The marker kingpin claims 730g with brakes. The beast 16 is 953...
From a weight savings vs downhill ride and transition time perspective, lord (vulcans) or jester (Cochise) with CAST almost seems like just as viable an option as the beast for accessing terrain where you want an alternative to traditional techs. I need to weigh the jester heels on a CAST plate to get a weight comparison, but...
This is what's winding my clock this morning...
This might belong in a different thread, but whatever. I don't represent dynafit or their competitors. I'm just obsessing over gear enough to take some time to do this.
I weighed all of the binding heel pieces I have laying around from my horde.
Jester pro, p18, sth16, sth14
Each heel piece with screws and brakes plus the cast mounted radical toe is 2.0 lbs. My scale will not show me grams. But it is sensitive to 0.1 lbs (45 grams) But a conversion means that each set (heel plus rad toe) is 907 grams +/- 45 grams.
If the plates add 180 grams per ski, an ascending CAST system with p18 heels (and probably lords as well, but I didn't have those to weigh) is 1087 grams +/- 45 grams per ski.
Sure you can factor in the PITA of the swapping of toe pieces, carrying toe pieces in your pack, and brake retention rubber bands (which I didn't bother weighing), but really, for me, for roughly 130 grams per ski, I can ski alpine clamps on the descent...the beast 16 doesn't seem worth it. Lords/cast/dynafit toes are the same price as the beast. If you're going to run Vulcans on either set up and you already admit to sacrificing some weight savings to trust your bindings more while skiing...
So yeah. How much do the beast 14s weigh?
Attachment 160288
Just racking up the post count
Beast 14 120mm c/w screws & rubber band brake retainer = 835g.
http://www.snowmediazone.com/the_zon...0mm_Weight.jpg
Spydenjon! Thanks, mang.
Just got my Beast 14's mounted!
I mounted with the binding freedom inserts and they work great.
One thing to note though: The POZI head screws that you get from Binding Freedom are too tall on the heel piece for the forward pressure to run freely. This is also important for getting into the binding. You will have to go with the completely flat type M5 screws.
I can confirm that the lengths are:
12MM for heel (full flathead type)
14MM for toe (either full flathead or custom POZI screws from Binding Freedom)
Any questions Im here to help!
Hi, I just received my Beast 14's with the 105 brake. These my 1st Dynafits. A couple of questions:
1) How wide a ski would a 105 brake fit? Would a V-Werks Katana 112 work?
2) The locking lever on the toe piece doesn't seem to be solid laterally - there's a slight plasticky/chattery sound when wiggling it. Since it is the same on both toes, I presume this is normal. I wonder if it is to accommodate for temperature expansion of the axis to which the lever is attached. Kind of weird since it does not inspire much confidence in durability (I have an Onyx and no such thing there)
The brakes don't bend all that much so best to try them out first and be gentle with the bending and try it in a vise. Don't get all gorilla on them in the coldQuote:
Originally Posted by meina222
That's normal for the locking lever of Dynafits. It's not a structural element.
Did you mount free hand or with a template?Quote:
Originally Posted by rhorjus
Any idea how these are going to perform on inbounds East Coast hard pack? I'm considering getting them but this unknown has me hesitant to pull the trigger on them.
Had them mounted at a place in Nederland, CO. They had a jig in the end so saved me some crazy free hand work. They had just got it in when i took the skis in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Driver
Anybody actually ski the things who can compare them to the 16's?
Been on the 14's the second half of the season. ca 20 days. Haven't been on the 16's so cant compare that but to me they feel bomber. Release when they should, no chattery feel, very connected and secure. I have them on 185 cochise's and weigh 67 kg sans gear, and I ski moderately fast fwiw.
Thanks. Next question.
Would the 120 brakes stick out too far on 98 waisted skis, or do they retract pretty well? I'd be swapping bindings 98 and 115 waisted skis.
No problem whatsoever. I have Beast 16 120mm's (same heel) shared across three pairs of skis with inserts with waists of 118mm, 108mm & 88mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by I've seen black diamonds!
Anyone else ever have issues with the first riser - the darker grey one - getting "locked" into the brake? As soon as I step on the riser it clicks into place behind the brake, and then it is quite a struggle to get it out of there and back to ski mode. I can wedge my pole tip under it and pry up from the ski to pop the riser free, but this just seems like way too violent of a motion to be correct. Thoughts?
It gets better over time, is my experience. In the beginning it feels like you're breaking the binding (or pole - more likely to actually happen).Quote:
Originally Posted by ODHGABFE
I still pry away at that first riser. Sure it's loosened up over time but it sure is stiff
Try this:Quote:
Originally Posted by ODHGABFE
Keep your toes in and locked. Raise the lighter high riser to meet your boot sole at an angle (see photo). Step down on the high riser. This will push the heel unit back in its track against the forward pressure spring, and because the brake is fixed will release the lower riser.
You will probably have to fiddle around with the angle of the riser for a little while as it takes some coordination between pole tip and boot pressure. Err on the steeper side. You'll probably lock the high riser in the first few attempts, but it gets really quick and easy w practice. It will take a good deal of pressure on the riser, but use consistent, smooth force, slowly ramping up. Stomping down will just cause the riser to engage or jump out of the way, you want to start to overcome the spring and any heel friction while maintaining your boot's grip on the riser. Stomping on an unsupported piece of plastic is probably never a good idea anyway (but we are already prying at them). After doing this, I step down again to engage ski mode and then strip skins for a really fast transition and no wallowing in snow. When you get the hang of it, the beast transitions as easily as any dynafit.
I've been doing this for a couple years after a friend showed me (previously a pry-er), I haven't noticed any problems in the forward pressure. When you get the hang of it, it works so smoothly I swear this was a design feature that dynafit didn't bother translating to english. But if anyone knows better let me know.
Attachment 262512
That's a great tip. Can't wait to try it.
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WHOA. Thanks, i had no idea!
Quote:
Originally Posted by strange meadow lark
That's the ticket! Took me a couple tries at first, it took more downward pressure with the the heel than I anticipated. When I just pressed with some weight the whole heelpiece (including locked riser and brake) just moved backwards, but then with a little more pressure, viola! Thanks a ton
Glad it worked for ya!
Used your tip today. Worked 1st try, very easy on a side hill. Can't believe this feature hasn't been widely shared.
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Yeah it seems like it must have been designed in. Seems like it was a casualty of “user manuals” that just serve as a legal warning to take bindings to an authorized dealer before each run.
These things are being unloaded for next to nothing now. Is there a problem with this binding or just better alternatives out there now?
Some people argue it is still the be(a)st for downhill. Get one if you don't need skinning without raisers and don't mind the weight. I never skied them but regret not to have profited from the low price the last time I needed bindings.
Blurred, you seen them cheap somewhere ? Backcountry blew them out at 175 but I was too slow to pick up on that deal. Would like to get a pair if I found 'em at the right price.
seems like I should revive my gear swap listing
So I was trying to show my buddy the trick to return to ski mode today and he broke the taller heel riser. Anyone know where to get a replacement?
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Contact Dynafit NA. They will send you one in the mail posthaste. It's an easy swap if not a little tricky to get the spring in just right.Quote:
Originally Posted by altacoup
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I can assure you that the binding is NOT designed to be used this way and since you've posted this I've had two people contact me after breaking their high lifters trying this. Just 'cause you've got away with it for so long doesn't make it a good idea - just look at the angle you're pushing - it's straight down the length of the lifter right on to its weakest area around the pivot/axle - & it takes a lot of downward pressure to be transferred in just a little rearward movement.Quote:
Originally Posted by strange meadow lark
The Beast was discontinued a couple of seasons ago and Dynafit have absolutely zero parts inventory.
Fuck. Tail firmly tucked between legs. Thanks Jon, and a huge apology to those that tried. Let me know if I can help in any way.
Does anyone use the Beasts without the metal heel reinforcement?
Without them, what kind of problem will happen?
The heels of your boots will get badly chewed up very quickly if you don't fit the Power Inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by j0z77
When are the heels chewed?
Only when they are released or every time clicked in and/or out?