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Swell filled in throughout the morning, headed down during my lunchbreak, packed lineup as usual and not all that great. From what I could tell from a distance it looked like it may have come together for the late afternoon/twilight, but I couldn't escape to find out for sure.
Goleta Pier did NOT look like that at 3pm.
Buoy look like are topped out. I'm going to be very wary today.
I don't think I've ever seen it like it was last night. On the bigger sets water was making it into the parking lot. Probably was a good idea to shut down the pier, the amount it would shake on the big sets was pretty sketch.
Not looking all that clean in the Carp/Rincon area this morning, but it's hard to even really tell right now with the glare + spray combo.
Get out there if you can. It's looking pretty damn good out the window here in Carp.
I'm resting up for another session. Campus Point this morning was the same size as yesterday afternoon. Yesterday was probably cleaner and longer interval on the waves. Still, many many good rides witnessed today. I upped my wave count, but basically I was shoulder hopping.
From today. A spot with not 300+ people out.
http://www.thrillinghill.net/gallery...1/071205_1.jpg
I have been watching it all day down here in San Diego. I work at point Loma so I have a good view. This morning was pretty much out of control with no one out at the usual boat spots (couldnt handle the size) . I did watch two guys towing-in right in front of the treatment plant. They caught a few big shoulders but nothing outstanding.
Leaving here at 3:30 pm. A swing by the Cliffs will tell me if Im going out.
It does look like it has dropped this afternoon. Not so out of control looking now
Got out at a point north Malibu. I would say it was mostly 8-10 foot but occasional bigger sets in the 12 ft + range that were mostly going unridden.
At 6:30am nothing was happening. Too much water, tide too high, but it didn't look all that great or even that big. About 10 guys looked to be out at the next break S, so we decided to suit up and ride one of them. Paddle out at the first spot and it was looking better. Had a good run of prolly 8-10 footers from 7:30 till 8:30 then a lull with all kinds of weird chop, warble, etc cruised through for the next 20 minutes or so. People were struggling to get into the waves and generally trying to find the right spot so a lot waves were going unridden. Instead of the sizeable walls I was expecting it turned out to be a little more like a drop followed by soft shoulder. As the tide dropped the inside section was starting to think about working. As we hit the beach around 9am a big rogue set came through way outside. It was more like what I was expecting, but gotta say it actually worked out fine. Only took one on the head, had a bunch of fun rides, and everyone was stoked.
Good fun, but not epic which seemed to be the report from most spots. Gotta say Topanga looked freakin epic on the return journey. Crowded, not giant prolly overhead but not DOH, but really excellent shape.
Just got back from driving from Malibu down PCH - and boy, just want to say that it's a beautiful sight. Set after set lined up all along the coast. Really awe-inspiring.
Have fun out there.
Several spots in the Santa Cruz area can leave you stranded up against the cliffs once the tide comes in. The Hook comes to mind.
Really sorry to hear about Davi. I hate to second guess the guy but I would have accepted the ride on the jet ski with my undying gratitude. Ghost Trees is not the place to let your ego get in the way of rational decison making.
I finally got some action this evening! Bo. is not the big-wave gnar-charging place of others, but then again I'm not a big-wave gnar-charger. It was a perfect way to get those tropical cobwebs out of my brain and replace them with ice cream headaches.
Plus, it's kinda fun surfing in the fog where you don't really know what's coming until it's right there. I'll be there (actually, I'm still here) with camera if it's any good tomorrow.
I'm so bummed I had school and work all day today.
My boss came into work this afternoon so stoked on today. I guess Pitas was 15-20 feet and super clean as the tide started dropping mid-morning.
Hopefully there will still be something left for me Friday... I don't care if it rains!
From what I gathered on the last post, Pitas' size dropped off in the afternoon. Still, I doubt the quality dropped.
well nice pics...lets see more. silly thing happened, i got to the beach and my batteries in my cam were dead! that never happens to me. it was a sign - time to go out and get some waves.
tues eve was good but yesterday it was all time! somewhere in PV it was the best it has been in a long long time. 3x overhead sets. glassy. only a few guys out. so sore! weds was THE day! aloha.
Pura, yes, I live in SB. Moved here about 1.5 years ago (also when I started surfing).
And on that note I spent much of Wednesday on the sidelines watching. Headed down to the pier to check out Sandspit. Looked gnarly in the AM and not very clean, but rumor had it Kelly was in the water ripping it up. Then I drove down the coast with the wife and baby to watch some Rincon action. Crazy shit in and around the river mouth. Broken boards were everywhere.
Later in the day we jumped in at Tabletops and ended up down at Leadbeeter for a mellow sunset. Had a good dawn patrol this am and now I can barely lift my arms.
I finally got my first taste on swell with some punch. Scared shittless and pumped all at the same time. I may actually have to get a step up if the winter continues to deliver.
Surfed the Con twice today. It was really clean this morning. Still, a little bit of size in the morning, but not like yesterday. I could concentrate more on surfing waves than dodging sets. AM: Plenty of long rides of the Indicator. PM : Size backed off. The pack off the Indicator was getting pretty restless when the sets backed off. I left that area when getting run over by surfers put more fear in me than getting cleaned up during sets the previous two days. I headed down towards the Rivermouth where it starting to get a bit bumpy.
I didn't feel too bad about shifting spots in the line up when I saw next to me some shaved head guy with a really white board wearing a Quiksilver wetsuit. I didn't feel too bad when the same guy told me a wave that I didn't stick the drop turned out to be a dud when he went on it (he did look back to see me blow it). Yeah, Kelly was throwing airs, 360s, and some big fans. Having him in the line up results in everyone upping their game.
All told on this swell. I surfed five times at three points and had lots of fun in the process. Myself and my boards made it out in tact. Now, I'm ready for snow. If any of the SB Mags are heading to Mammoth this weekend, let me know.
I ended up nearby during an early lunch hour for some fun surf. Yeah still plenty of waves but the pucker factor is done. Stoked as it's just the beginning of the best part of the year. I actually stopped by Rincon to have a look around ~130pm as well. Looked pretty fun as well.
One from Rincon:
http://www.thrillinghill.net/gallery...6_Rincon_1.jpg
Yesterday morning was really really fun in PV.The big sets were still well overhead and every now and again something around DOH came rolling through. Nice channel, not crowded, great waves, ahhhh. Sooo stoked. No pucker factor either as the enormous bombs were done, but still a bunch of size for some fun!!! Damn good morning!
Never been to Lunatic Bay, Indicators looked gorgeous but prolly a little too gnar for this kid so it was option #1. Really fun morning. Still stoked by it!!! Perfect size for the Cove as much bigger and it starts to close out across the bay which is what I heard was happening on Wednesday.
You surfed Indicators much? Some guys were getting good rides, some were getting creamed, at least from what I could see at a distance, but it looked really schweeet.
I think the launch may be a bit sketch with that much swell...
i got to surf this much -> 0
i got to work this much -> 8billion
finally got out this morning in the knee-high high-tide trash of greater los angeles warbles. awesomes.
anyways, some photos of the ranch i found on surfermag.
http://forum.surfermag.com/forum/sho...=0#Post1284991
In case you don't wander over there, Surfline has posted a nice recap of the swell. Worth a look. The Ghost Tree shots = :eek::eek::eek:
nor cal: http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/pho...?id=12666&ad=1
so cal: http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/pho...?id=12679&ad=1
mex: http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/pho...?id=12680&ad=1
The Ghost Tree shots are rediculous. I saw a video somwhere on there last night, too.
I just linked this to another thread but Here you go. Sorry for jonging up the threads but it's worth it.
IMHO, if image 10 in the Surfline NoCal sequence doesn't win the XXL competition this year there is no justice. Holy crap is that a big scary wave!
If someone can teach me how to post pictures, i can put up the photos I took of Lunada on Wednesday morning... pretty ridiculous.