Would there be any issue w/ bending the standard Naxo NX21 brakes to fit a 109 waist?
Jason
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Would there be any issue w/ bending the standard Naxo NX21 brakes to fit a 109 waist?
Jason
Creating two shear planes along the rotational axis seems like a monumentally bad idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiSt
If you decide to cut, I would cut at an angle and then fit the entire thing into a very stiff sheath.
If a proper weld is done, there will be no shear plane.
Duke =110mm brake
Jester=90mm brake
Great.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiCop
Let me know how that works out for you.
The idea was to make a separate piece of metal to fit over either end of the cut brake, and then weld. If done properly it should be stronger than the original brake.
I "might" try it if I need to modify a set of brakes. If so, I will do my best document it, and post the pictures here.
Sounds like a plan.
Why not just bend them, though?
Originally, I thought of this for FSK/pivot-style bindings, where taking the brakes off and bending seems to be a big pain in the ass. Cutting and welding might be faster and easier if you had the right tools, which I do.
However, it seems very unlikely that I will buy a pair of FKS/pivots for my praxis, though that was a real option in the end of last season before missing out on a big discount in a local shop. Now, my praxis will probably be mounted with dukes, and given that the brakes for dukes are the same as for the rest of the markers, I´ll end up getting 130mm brakes and bend/tweak them to fit.
Last night, I was fooling around with my P18...trying to bend the beakes w/out a vise, or taking the plate off. As I was pulling on the brakes,one became dislodged. I unscrewed the the two back screws and the spring popped out of the compartment. Now, I can't seem to get it back in. The looped part seems like 1/8" too long. Do I have to remove the base plate, and take the heel piece apart to re-install the spring?
If the answer's not here, I'd PM slim.
Thanks. I would like to re-install the spring w/out taking the metal plate off.
Just do this. I did this a couple days ago and worked just fine. Really easy as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by schindlerpiste
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...&postcount=137
Thank you! You sir, ARE THE MAN!!!:yourock: :yourock: :yourock: It worked like a charm.
I owe you...big time!!!!!!!
Additional info: bending brakes on Tyrolia D10 Freeflex bindings (not railflex, but these do have a thin metal strap connecting the toe and heelpiece):
Don't bother remove the brakes from the bindings (I couldn't figure out how to do so). Put one brake arm in a bench vise, hold heelpiece assembly firmly with one hand (stabilizing whole assembly during bending process), bend other brake arm with short length of pipe.
Re-bend into desired length with pipe, or in my case (since I was bending these very wide for Praxis), hammer back into shape with hand sledge. I made standard narrow (80mm?) brakes into 140mm+ brakes. There isn't much left sticking down into the snow, but I don't expect brakes to do anything on pow skis anyway.
Wear gloves and eye protection, just in case.
El C -- D10s are DIN 17, right? Predecessor of the FF17?
no. basically race bindings with different din.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinedad
mine go from 10-19.
and i think the din can vary under the same name. (i believe i saw some going to 20 or 18)
The ones I bent are the yellow ones from Level Nine, which I think were sold as the FF17 (DIN 6-17? something like that), but they have D10 on the heelpiece.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinedad
The $59 deal? I'll have to check mine, but I think they say FF17 all over.
Same $59 ones. Now you have me wondering if I saw that right or am just losing it... I'm pretty sure it said D10.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinedad
Checked. The FF17s I have are marked "d10" on the sides of the heelpieces.
I was told that the brakes that fit Salomon S9xx and Zxx will not work as direct replacements for at least the new Solomon high DIN bindings (maybe other new ones). As Alpinedad mentioned... you MAY be able to swap the arms out but if you're buying fat brakes this is something to keep in mind.
Photos to help the brake-bending JONGs:
From left to right: Look Pivot/ Rossi Axial brakes -- (L) unbent 80mm standard narrow brake, (center) unbent 98mm-ish wide brake, (R) bent way out 80mm narrow brakes, now approx. 150mm brakes.
Tyrolia FF17/ D10 brakes:
(L) unbent 80mm-ish narrow brakes
(R) bent 80mm brakes, now approx. 140mm width
The arm swap is so simple that if it's an issue you prolly shouldn't be dealing with your brakes at allQuote:
Originally Posted by Crass3000
Could anyone confirm the 110 number for the Duke? I could order a pair tomorrow (and from what I understand, ONLY tomorrow), but my decision is sorta based on whether I'd have to buy wide brakes or not. I've never seen a Marker brake bent, so I'm not sure how that would fare going from 80 mm to 120 mm (Lotus 120). But if it really is 110, then that's no issue.