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As far as p-tex repairs not holding wax, that is true. p-tex candles are extruded, while good quality base material is sintered.
Further, by heating, you do destroy some of the wax holding capability.
Oddly enough, I never seem to have a problem with my reapirs holding. One thing I learned long ago was that filing ptex repairs is better than scraping. this puts less strain on the edges of the patch.
Bump! (with advice)!
Since the season is ending, you should really consider prepping your skis for the long hot snow less summer ahead of them. This is essential to protecting your expensive investment, and will give your ski's a longer life.
First, do a little work on the edges, they don't have to be razor sharp, but the dings and such should be smoothed away.
Second, and this is a MUST if you even remotely care about your skis, you need to throw down a layer of hot wax over your base for the summer. I would advise to clean the base using the "hot scrape" method (basically set down a layer of wax and immediately scrape it off. This gets the dirt that is ingrained in the base out pretty efficiently.) I would almost suggest doing 2 hot scrapes, but if you don't have the extra wax lying around don't worry about it.
After you do a hot scrape or two, lay down a nice THICK layer of wax. Preferably a warmer wax like CH8/CH10/Swix Universal wax. Make sure you melt the wax so that it covers as much of the edge as possible. Now, don't scrape it off! Let it sit on the ski over the summer. The reason for this is that the edges are susceptible to rusting in the humidity that sweeps your house in the summer (depending where you live, of course) It would also be a good idea to store them someplace that isn't damp or moist or humid (like your basement) because the edges can still rust. This pretty much covers everything you need to do to your skis for the summer.
I've heard mixed arguments about what to do to your binding DIN over the summer; some say to turn it down others say to leave it where it is. Dunno what to say on this one...
edit: Version 2 coming next season...:cool:
Do hot scrapes as long as the wax that comes off is dirty if you can. Might be 1, 2, 3, ... Typically it will be 2 or 3.Quote:
Originally posted by dipstik
I would almost suggest doing 2 hot scrapes, but if you don't have the extra wax lying around don't worry about it.
It may be worth investing in some Swix BP88 (Base Prep) tp fo the hot scrapes and storage. It's notably cheaper than the CH waxes, and since it's for throw away... Candle wax should work too for that though I've never done it. The one advantage of using a CH wax for storage is that if the soft wax matches your conditions in the beginning of the season you can just scrape it and go, but I'd wager that BP88 is close enough to CH 8-10 that it'd be okay for that too.
No need to change the DIN but whatever.
drC
Quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Crash
Do hot scrapes as long as the wax that comes off is dirty if you can. Might be 1, 2, 3, ... Typically it will be 2 or 3.
It may be worth investing in some Swix BP88 (Base Prep) tp fo the hot scrapes and storage. It's notably cheaper than the CH waxes, and since it's for throw away... Candle wax should work too for that though I've never done it. The one advantage of using a CH wax for storage is that if the soft wax matches your conditions in the beginning of the season you can just scrape it and go, but I'd wager that BP88 is close enough to CH 8-10 that it'd be okay for that too.
No need to change the DIN but whatever.
drC
Good points on the wax. If you can't find the stuff DrC mentioned, some ski shops will sell you the wax that they use for their machines. I got a huge chunk, probably the size of 4 Swix CH blocks, for $10.
And about the DIN, I don't think I'll ever know what to do about it, everyone says something different. :confused:
i remember TJ (or mike gutt) saying to turn the DIN down to about 2 - NOT all the way so the spring doesn't undergo so much stress when you set it back up at the beginning of the season.
one good idea i've heard lately is over the summer, keep waxing (or just ironing in more) so the wax gets absorbed more into the base.
everyone probably knows this one, but seperate your skis (don't lock the together with the brakes/rubber band, etc) over the summer so they don't lose their camber.
EDIT: i think it'd be a good idea to make this a sticky.
Or put them out in the sun from time to time, bases up.Quote:
Originally posted by The Jackamo
one good idea i've heard lately is over the summer, keep waxing (or just ironing in more) so the wax gets absorbed more into the base.
drC
bump
neat. just printed a copy of this for reference.
do you all recommend waxing (- the hot scrapes) new skis for the summer or shall i leave them be...
What binders actuall go down to 2?:DQuote:
Originally posted by The Jackamo
i remember TJ (or mike gutt) saying to turn the DIN down to about 2 - NOT all the way so the spring doesn't undergo so much stress when you set it back up at the beginning of the season.
or your 2nd lowest setting.
and for new skis, i wouldn't hot scrape - you haven't done anything on them to get them dirty, so it'd just be a waste of wax. just clean them off with a towel to get any dust off, and then do a summer wax on them (explained earlier - liberal amount so that you'll get wax covering the edges) and let them sit and look purdy.
I think a bump is in order. But, I just returned from a 22 hour bender at Jazzfest and I am only left to ponder if this would not have been improved with that naked chick I saw dancin' in New Orleans instead of dipstick...
Bump...
Did my first ptex repairs this weekend; lots of rocks at Mt. Rose. :mad:
Ptex JONG question: what gouges are big enough to warrant repair, and what ones should just be left alone ? The ones I filled this weekend definitely were deep enough (3/8" wide by 1.5" long, a bit more than 1/8" deep), and were right up against the edge. Picked a few pebbles out of the base too.
I did my first ptex base repair this weekend as well. Had a nice 5 inch long chunk ripped right out from trying to jump on a rail and landed right on the corner(busted my ass). All the tuning threads I read said to use a propane torch to light the ptex, but I did that and got some soot with that. So, it's no the prettiest thing to look at but it did the job. Might try using a candle next time. It wouldn't matter if I had black bases, but I have clear. OH well, thanks for the useful thread.
Don't know if it had been addressed yet, but repair p-tex doesn't hold wax. If you've got a big repair, get a base patch.
This is awesome. I can fully picture many, many maggots on a sunny sunday in august looking out the window and thinking "wow! what a great day to sun my bases!"Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Crash
Dear Dipstick --
Thank you for your comprehensive and beautifully illustrated guide to ski tuning. It is a tremendous help to me!
For now, what I really need are the edge tools:
Swix Pocket Stone
File
Medium Grit Diamond Stone
Fine Grit Diamond Stone
Gummi Stone
I especially need the Gummi Stone, for rusty edges.
What kind/grade of file should you use? Is an ordinary mill file okay?
Do you have any recommendations for what brand to buy, and where to buy them?
For financial reasons, I'd prefer to buy just the edge tools for now, but if there is a comprehensive kit that you recommend, I could consider that.
Thanks again for your fabulous pedagogy!
Best Regards,
Lou Hinman
New York City
I was thinking of getting this: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/snowshac...uning-kit.html
Link to Dipstick's recommendation (in this other thread) on preferred edge and base guides:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/showt...ghlight=tuning
He prefers simple fixed guides.
I am looking for something more compact and portable than a bastard file and a spring clamp setup. I want it to mostly have a diamond stone in it for quick touch ups and then fit easily in the boot bag, but also handle the file when needed.
Anyone have a recommended fixed or adjustable edge guide that holds files and diamond stones??
I had an old Swix one (kinda like the one used above by Dipstick) that worked "okay" until I dropped it and the plastic broke.
What about the FK "multi edge tuner" at tognar?
http://www.tognar.com/bevel_edge_bas...snowboard.html
Actually, since I don't need the base function, this cheaper FK unit would work for $19:
http://www.reliableracing.com/winter...&category=2000
Or, I could use the fixed guides, and buy a "thumbscrew clamp" instead of using a spring clamp.
Thinking about the SVT clamp, and the 1 degree Pro-Edge bevel guide (and maybe a 1 degree shim to get 2 degrees).
I tend to stick with 1 degree bevel, but if I ski more Eastern ice, I may want that 2 degree bite on the skinny skis.
I don't really need a base edge tuner, since I usually put 'em on the grinder at that point. Just looking to maintain the edge.
Also, any thoughts on sidewall planes? Never had one, but seems a lot easier than having your file clog up with sidewall material.
Bump
Good stuff in here!
Any chance the pic links can be repaired?
works fine for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJSapp
Cross link to Base Repair thread:
http://tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19813
bizzzump
a few quick things I do to help p tex hold:
I quickly pass over the gouge with a MAP gas torch...quickly so I don't burn the base or core, or sidewall or anything... I do this to steam off any moisture I can't see and to pre heat the area for maximum bondage.... If there's any moisture in there, I don't even try the repair. My experience with gouge repair is that a lot of otherwise good repairs are ruined by bubbles of steam rising through the liquid ptex then caught as it hardens... then I hit the inside of the gouge/coreshot with some 60 grit to rough it up.
edit: forgot to mention that I like to remove excess ptex with a vixen file rather than scraping w/steel scraper...to each his own.
take it for what it's worth!
nice photo TR:)
i fill the holes w/ wax and have no drag whatsoever as skate into the maze:rolleyes:
Good info!
I usually fill all the base scratches with a quick [1 drip thick] of ptex before a base grind. Very sparingly so as to interfere with the sintered properties of the base as little as possible, but the less material removed on the stone [or belt,] the better. IMO
I don't use a gun, but I have an old metal scraper that i bent lengthwise to about a 40 degree angle. I put a little chunk of ptex inthe middle, put on a glove, hold it over the ski, and hit it with a mini torch from underneath, allowing it to melt & drip onto the base. I guess I'm paranoid about burning the ptex and getting a shitty bond. :confused: