Rossi broken binding…what to do?

^^^ good catch. I can see that affecting the stress on the arms.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Spyderjon

Interesting that the two arms are adjusted to different lengths.

---

Wow good eye. I didn’t do that or even knew you could do that. WTF?

Could have spun after breaking too. Even in your 2 pictures it's in different positions.
Check your other heel piece

Here's some more examples. I don't have a specific right and left ski so there should be even wear but only the right side cracks. These are old bindings and was probably a manufacturing defect.

Attachment 508228Attachment 508229

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Spyderjon

Interesting that the two arms are adjusted to different lengths.

---

hmmm, good observation... and the "shorter arm" is the broken side

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by XXX-er

It doesnt look under-engineered but if you think about it that heel piece is a nice long lever to break itself off the binding

---

Not under engineered for 1980. By design the pivot heel has a lot of moving parts and is highly sensitive to how it is adjusted. I’ve seen dozens of these fail exactly like OP’s.

It’s the dual carb equivalent of sports cars in the 70’s. When tuned correctly, they’re awesome.

So Rossi is going to replace the turntable part. Question: should I do the fix myself or take it to a ski shop?

can you operate a screwdriver?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NBABUCKS1

can you operate a screwdriver?

---

Haha is it that easy? Do I need wood glue?

Yes, and you could use wood glue. Or epoxy. Or something. I use gasket maker. Philosophies vary re: whether you’re trying to create a bond between the screw and ski OR if you’re just trying to keep water out. I’m in the latter camp, but shit who the hell even knows in matters of religion, politics, and ski tech?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mustonen

Yes, and you could use wood glue. Or epoxy. Or something. I use gasket maker. Philosophies vary re: whether you’re trying to create a bond between the screw and ski OR if you’re just trying to keep water out. I’m in the latter camp, but shit who the hell even knows in matters of religion, politics, and ski tech?

---

Is turning the screw by hand good enough or should it be tightened by a power screwdriver?

Use power tools at your own risk, much easier to get a spinner with them then by hand

Just make sure you’re using a pozidriv #3 so you don’t strip the screws.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Spyderjon

Interesting that the two arms are adjusted to different lengths.

---

I must say this case has the cleanest, most unscratched condition of all similar cases of breaking that I have seen. So I always previously assumed that abuse and long-term wear played a factor. Maybe not, though.
...But I never worked at a shop, so I haven't seen as many cases as all the shop rats here.

Yeah, next time, I'd adjust it so both arms are the same length, just to eliminate that possible variable.

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The SnowShow

Wow good eye. I didn’t do that or even knew you could do that. WTF?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The SnowShow

So Rossi is going to replace the turntable part. Question: should I do the fix myself or take it to a ski shop?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The SnowShow

Haha is it that easy? Do I need wood glue?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The SnowShow

Is turning the screw by hand good enough or should it be tightened by a power screwdriver?

---

At this point, I'd suggest you pay a pro.

Can’t say I disagree.

I may be full of sh-t here, but this is an application that I'd be wary of volcanoes in the ski topsheet from drilling/tapping/mounting the bindings. The screws are far inboard, and the heel arms far outboard. If the metal plate sits on top of a volcano rather than dead flat to the topsheet, it will be subject to a back-and-forth bending force from the arms that could lead to fatigue and increased chance of breakage at the place where people see breaks. (It will still see force if it's dead flat on the topsheet, but only bend in one direction.) I don't have access to a turntable heel at the moment to see how it sits on the ski, so you can ignore me if that is not a realistic concern.

So I'd just wanna be careful and do a good job mounting / remounting. There are plenty of threads / places to show how to trim off volcanoes, if there are any.

is it actually this acceptable to re-use screw holes?

Sure ^^ If the screw doesnt strip with wood glue all you need is wood glue, if the hole strips the fix is to use slow set epoxy & a filler like steel wool or chopped FG, so I just use slow set for everything,

if its just replacing the heelpiece in the same holes it should be easy

every thing written in the last 2 pages has been repeated ad nauseum in the mount your own fucking ski thread

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by coldfeet

I may be full of sh-t here, but this is an application that I'd be wary of volcanoes in the ski topsheet from drilling/tapping/mounting the bindings. The screws are far inboard, and the heel arms far outboard. If the metal plate sits on top of a volcano rather than dead flat to the topsheet, it will be subject to a back-and-forth bending force from the arms that could lead to fatigue and increased chance of breakage at the place where people see breaks. (It will still see force if it's dead flat on the topsheet, but only bend in one direction.) I don't have access to a turntable heel at the moment to see how it sits on the ski, so you can ignore me if that is not a realistic concern.

So I'd just wanna be careful and do a good job mounting / remounting. There are plenty of threads / places to show how to trim off volcanoes, if there are any.

---

This particular break doesn't really effect the topsheet, it's just metal fatigue on the disc/upright. What you are concerned about does happen but really only on K2s with no binding mount reinforcement and one off "garage built skis. If the binding is mounted properly with waterproof glue etc it is as strong as any other mount.