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Excellent vid Tom. I've been wanting to see some video of him getting worked for awhile. The wife & I bought some prints of his the last time we were in HI & get comments on them all the time. Cool stuff. He must have to clean sand out of his ass & ears daily.
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As a life long surfer, not fun. More survival surfing than anything and beyond dangerous. Pull up video of JOB on You Tube (Jamie O Brien surfing that swell at the wedge, Ridiculous.) Obvious reason he owns Pipe right now.
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That's how bones get broke. Shit is shallow where he landed.