That's stuff called "Metal Grip" and does stick to metal better than regular p-tex. However it's a pain in the ass to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurch
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That's stuff called "Metal Grip" and does stick to metal better than regular p-tex. However it's a pain in the ass to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurch
My method also but I bought the versaform with my order from Tognar but found it hard to work with. I just use by skivisions plane and it works great. I never use my metal scrapper anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Below Zero
I use a soldering iron wit a 1/2" wide ,flat tip ....remove excess with a hand plane (woodworking) ,sand, then metal scraper.
Question for those that use a gun. Sometimes I'll get bubbles in the p-tex when I'm laying it down. Does anyone have a good tip to prevent this? It's a pain because you end up having to work the p-tex in with the gun...quite a bit of screwing around to get the patch to set right.
Curious about exposed metal core shots.
Seem to be four options:
1) ptex
2) epoxy (with or without ptex cheese gratings), then ptex
3) metalgrip (a/k/a copolymer), then ptex
4) ptex repair sheet (a/k/a repair ribbon) epoxied to core
#1 seems not to bond well
#2 I have not tried, but some like it.
Another thread mentions using just epoxy to fill the entire void (no ptex on top). I wonder if this would be the best repair for that pesky groove right next to the edge. I have some of these grooves and they worry me since any subsequent rock hit will not slide off, but will catch the edge and rip it out. Any candle repairs dont last at all.
#3 is allegedly sticky and messy,but is it the best thing other than #4? Does it really stick that well?
#4 seems ideal, except for the fact that I am not sure how you get the pieces to match exactly? Do you tape the patch to the ski and cut them both at the same time like a linoleum patch? How do you bond the edges together?
Good thread and info.
I am definitely buying an iron from Tognar. I just want to know if I should order metal grip and base sheets also.
Tognar repair tips here:
http://www.tognar.com/bsreptips.html
http://www.tognar.com/REPAIR2.JPG
From Tognar:
BASE REPAIR DURABILITY
Base repair materials vary in hardness, which affects their durability when filling gouges on a ski or snowboard base. A soft repair material wears faster than a hard one, which means that you'll have to refill gouges more frequently if you use a drip candle instead of p-tex repair ribbon.
Generally it's best to use repair material similar in hardness to your original ski or snowboard base. As you can see on the chart below, the p-tex ribbon is similar in hardness to a sintered base...while the repair string is more similar in hardness to an extruded base.
There are, of course, exceptions to the rule. When filling gouges alongside a steel edge, for example, we prefer copolymer, because...unlike other materials...it can bond to steel. Softer repair materials also bond more easily in shallow scratches on ski or snowboard bases...so we prefer to melt in soft material with a repair iron for these, and then switch to harder material for more durable repairs in medium and deep gouges.
A soft p-tex material, like a drip repair candle, is fast and easy to apply. This can be handy for travel or ‘on-the-spot’ repairs, but it will wear much quicker than surrounding base material. This might be okay for very shallow scratches, but in deeper gouges can become an ongoing maintenance nightmare.
Harder p-tex material, such as our repair ribbon, string or techo stix, take a little more time to apply...but last much longer. They won’t wear or ‘dish-out’ in gouges as fast over time. Some folks have noted that these materials don’t ‘flow’ into gouges like drip repair candles do. This is because they are denser and more durable, so don’t be discouraged by appearances.
Simply apply the ribbon, string or techo stix using a base repair iron or pistol (in successive layers if necessary) until you’ve overfilled the gouge. Let the material cool a few minutes. To remove excess, a regular steel scraper will usually not be sharp enough...its dull edge will tend to grab and yank the repair material out of the gouge. You need a sharper cutting tool for this operation. We recommend using the Versaplane to initially remove excess material...it is very sharp and cuts very cleanly. Once you’ve shaved away most of the excess, you should then be able to use a steel scraper of base flattener tool to take off the remaining material until the repaired area is flush with the rest of the base.
To help make new repairs ‘blend in’ with the surrounding material, you can lightly restructure the base with a tool such as the brass riller bar or SkiVisions base flattener...altho if the repair is small, this might be more effort than it’s worth.
I used to use straight up JB Weld for coreshots and it actually works pretty good. In more recent years I've been using this setup:
http://www.biglines.com/photos/norma...ines_48006.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil E
You forgort step 1(a)....Yell "LEEEEEERRROYYYYY JENKIIIINNNNSSSS!!!!!"
Home tuning bench: melamine sheet screwed on top of an old ironing table (or a new $10 one). Not as stable as a bench with legs going outwards, but not bad for the <$20. And it folds against my wall too.
drC
Some people at a ski shop told me this is a bad idea since melted ptex doesn't stick very well to cold ptex.Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbakerskier
I've used the metalgrip, and it works like a champ. It's difficult to not fill in the hole too much, but once you get it in properly, it sticks.
Hold the burning ptex stick against a metal scraper, that way it burns with a low flame, and as a bonus, it doesn't drip all over the place.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Use a cold (not real cold, room temp should do) flat piece of metal, and lay it over the ptex as soon as the bubble forms. It should draw the bubble out. I don't like the gun as much as a butane torch with a flat metal spoon (teaspoon will do for the DIYer) on it. Ie. the butane heats the spoon which you use to melt the ptex and run it over the "wound". This is an awesome method IMO and got much more use at the shop than the gun due to ease of use and ability to hold well. Anyone else use this? It's easy to make at home too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Junkie
This is the method I use other than a structural repair then use 2 without ptex.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
It is tricky to use ptex over copolymer but it can be done with some practice. You can just fill with coploymer. The disadvantage is that it is softer than ptex , about the same as drip ptex, so will wear faster than base. What I do is repair the coreshot with copolymer only . Ski... then later when have to repair base for other stuff I wallpaper over coreshot copolymer. This has advantage that wear leaves space for ptex layer. I find it difficult to put in just the right amount copolymer so you have room to put on a layer of ptex.
Quote:
Originally Posted by St. Deep
Okay, so that's a few votes for the butane torch and spoon or knife.
Three questions:
1) can I use it to cook my heroin?
2) is there any problem with it getting too hot? wouldn't a soldering iron be a more precise heat? Isn't Butane too hot? 500F is the desired temp for ptex.
3) any recommendations for the butane torch component??
Thx.
This works well for me. Even if I only have a candle, heating the base before applying the new p-tex really helps bond the new p-tex in.Quote:
Originally Posted by FNG
Bump, since I finally got my repair stuff together this weekend, and put a massive coreshot in my formerly-minty-fresh Snow Rangers (down to the metal):
I got the coreshot fix to work, using a combination of materials and techniques above.
1) Cut out rough edges of coreshot using razor knife (stanley knife) so that the patch will "keystone" in place with existing base material
2) Heat area to be fixed, carefully using heat gun
3) With chisel-tip Craftsman soldering iron, melt in Tognar's metalgrip string, filling coreshot about halfway
4) Immediately after #3, while metalgrip layer is still warm, melt in Tognar's "techo stix" ptex, also using soldering iron. Overfill coreshot a little bit above surface of surrounding material.
5) After repair has fully cooled off, mask coreshot area with tape. Then grate off the excess material with sureform tool (Lowe's, $6), level with surrounding base material. The tape helps minimize damage to the surrounding base, though I did scuff it up a bit.
6) Finish with some fine-grit sandpaper to smooth it all out, then scrape with metal scraper to take off the ptex hairs.
7) Brass brush (attempt to impart some structure to the repair area), wax and scrape as usual.
here's the way i do it, always works.
1) get a fair sized coreshot on your skis. easy at least if you are an european, especially during this season
2) next ski day while unloading the skis from the car/bus/tram, realize that you forgot to fix that nasty gouge yesterday.
3) be sure to ponder on the situation for a while so that, if they werent already, the skis are now cold for sure. this provides for an optimal bonding.
4) search backpack for p-tex. realize that the p-tex has not magically materialized in the backpack on its own since you last searched for yesterday.
5) ask ski buddies (usually klar) for ptex.
a) no-one's got ptex -> go skiing
b) someone's got ptex -> proceed to 6), "the repair"
6) light up ptex candle.. cleaning the base are is for nerds. drip ptex in the gouge. although it only very rarely snows in europe, it luckily sometimes does when doing ptex repairs. if it doesnt then its raining. be sure to be in an open area so that water will mix with ptex. this will further strengthen the bond. to improve your coreness level, also be sure to be in the vicinity of as many gapers as possible so they can stare at you're doing your core coreshot repair. as a further sign of your coreness, be sure to leave some p-tex stains on your gore-tex hi-tec xcr gtx ultraprimaloft jacket.
7) nearly finished! place bets with ski buddies on how long the repair is gonna last.
8) ask ski buddies for a metal scraper. im not even gonna put a and b options for this one, as no-one will have any kind of scraper with them. no worries! the windshield scraper works wonders, or then not. the good thing about this method of repairing coreshots is that you dont really need to scrape anything anyway. just go skiing and (at least) the extra ptex will come off on itself.
9) fak! somehow the blob of ptex has come off after the first run. you lost the bet. better luck tomorrow. proceed to 2), repeat until skis fall into pieces
Quote:
Originally Posted by keksie
Good shit man. The dirt bag book on ski repair. Epic
Which ptex works best with sintered race base?
I had a core shot on Saturday that blew out my repair on Sunday. I've never had that happen before, so dug up this thread. Stopped by the shop last night to get repair goods in Park City and was told, bring in the ski. Didn't want to argue with the pimple faced tech, so here I am.
I use the blow torch spoon method my dad taught me on my 710 FO's back when K2 was still American and the Mahres were on posters on my walls.
Can't help ya with that one, but for my repairs, I use a dremel tool with a sanding bit to grind it down close to flat (very fast!), and then use a skivisions ski planer to get it flat and structured. Still not perfect, but I'm not a patient man and don't spend a lot of time on it. I usually send it in to a shop for a full tune and stone grind after repair season is over (likely to be as late as March, this season, fuck).
Soldering iron, metal grip & SkiVisions repair ribbon, followed by SV planer and restructuring or file flattener (available at SlideWright):Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTBuXIpEiIg
Done this before. Switched to a heat gun after getting a little too close with the butane torch. It's a little less dangerous that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by FNG
this thread = win
You want to find some base weld. The shit with the metal filings in it. Cut out the base with a razor blade and fill it with the weld. Just use a shitty iron for the welding. So you don't ruin your good tuning one. Be sure to not get any air bubbles in it it you'll just rip it out and have to start over. Once it's dry shave off the large globs with a razor blade then wrap some sand paper around a block of wood and sand it down. Your gonna need to take it for a stone grind afterward though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
I had no luck finding ptex ribbon, metalgrip, or a base weld iron around north tahoe--can't say I tried every shop. So the time to order the stuff from Tognar is before you get a core shot.
I've used surform files and ordinary files to flatten a repair but i've found a sharp, wide chisel works best. This implies you have a good chisel and the stones to sharpen it--so this advice is only practical for woodworkers. I use a metal scraper to finish--if you hold it with your fingers around the ends with your thumbs pressing in the middle and push the scraper rather than pulling you can flex it and make it convex so you only remove material from the patch and not the whole base. I figure it doesn't hurt if the repair is slightly low, at least until the next base grind.
I have a roll of metal grip ribbonQuote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
I can get er done with a liester
not worth the extra effort ussually
i get good results with a base weld gun and sticks
i think the preheat of the base with the liester helps and its all about the good undercut
I got shindlers pooch till weds eve will try and remember to send some up to pc with him
or your welcome to stop by the wps sandy mancave and grab some.