Printable View
x3^ Cut and hold hose vertical. Press in barb olive while holding vertical.
Hold lever vertical while removing the cut hose.
Put 2 pieces together without dripping any fluid.
They replaced Kate Courtney’s brake lever mid race a few weeks ago without a bleed.
So if my tire generally holds air between rides and on trail rides but magically went from 22ish to 4ish PSI in four hours of lift served, what's that suggest? I need to learn how to ride so I stop pushing the bead out of place? Start with more pressure?
(New to tubeless on a bicycle)
Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app
XT rear derailer, 8100. Less than half a season on it. Seemed to freeze through part of it’s range so no tension in highest gears. Sprayed it all down with degreaser, slick honeyed the clutch and now it is like new. I’ve never had anything like this before, but clutch derailers are newer to me. What do I need to do on the go forward to keep this from happening again? I’ve told him to only use the clutch when descending.
Shimano clutch grease only on those clutches. Anything else will make that derailleur to crap out.
Yup. I put regular lithium grease on my 11-SLX clutch and it totally burned up within 250 miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
thats interesting, I serviced probably hundreds of printers with spragg clutchesQuote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
clean & grease with # 23 grease or replace if you had them, I would go into Canadian airlines with a pocket full
Get it warrantied and hope you get a replacement that doesn't have the same issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
They all have issues. It’s now a standard practice to open all Shimano clutch derailleur and service them.
Shimano is aware of the issue . They changed the grease 16 months ago, their official stance is the added demands of the 12 speed derailleur is what’s causing the clutch failures, but many in the industry believe it’s the new grease formula, or the quantity of grease applied to the new 12 clutches.
So what do they look like on inspection and how does a good one compare to a bad one ??
Not my photo, but my 8100 derailleur clutch looked just like this after only about 40 miles and three or so gentle washings (no pressure washer). Bone dry and didn’t shift well at all.
Attachment 377026
That could be my photo from way earlier in this thread. Shimano replaced the der with no questions and the new one looks great. I now service then regularly with the special grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
Sent from my SM-G970U1 using TGR Forums mobile app
It’s not taking a ton of force. Could you try something like epoxy and steelwool to tighten the fit, in addition to the longer bolt suggestion?Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
This stuff? Not in stock anywhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Attachment 377070
Yep that stuff, and yep not in stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Take a small ziplock to your local shop and ask for a small dollop of it, it will last you forever.
If anyone in the SLC area needs some, I have a small tub of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
yeah its always red rust in failing spragg clutches even in printers that had just sat on an office desk
Is there truly no substitute for that grease? It's not like Shimano makes grease, they buy it from some outfit that makes industrial lubricants. And I doubt they would develop a clutch system that also required a new lubricant to be invented just to make it work, that seems pretty dumb to this guy.
One could read the specs and see what type of grease it is
Originally they spec'd Shimano Internal Hub Grease Y04120800, and then they changed the spec to Shimano Grease for Shadow RD+ Rear Derailleur Y04121000.
The original Internal Hub Grease is in stock in most places on line.
My rear dropouts have these rear facing threaded holes. What are they for? Bike is a litespeed t5g.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...185c465370.jpg
Drillium
Well now there's an expert answer. Take that one to the bank.
I have not ridden all of the recent crop of forks and I’m looking for 140-150mm travel 29’er fork to replace my wife’s Fox 34 (2018 spec, grip damper). I’m wondering what people like for lighter riders these days that will be most conducive to good small bump compliance and hopefully linear enough she can use mos rod the travel. Kitted she’s probably 115lbs.
I’m wondering about a pike ultimate or getting a fox 36 and sending it off to Push. Any thoughts on what seems to work well for lighter riders in this class?
Ideally looking used if someone has something hanging out…
The last couple rides, my rear MT7 started suddenly deteriorating until it would randomly pull to the bar, despite being bled a week prior. I did a full bleed again, and didn't observe any bubbles (used a very large bottom syringe and probably pushed ~40cc worth of oil through the system). However, the oil was dark black, and I also noticed that half the caliper pistons are very sticky. The brake is a couple years old, and I'm the second owner.
I did some searching, and it doesn't look like there are any service kits or service manuals for replacing piston seals at both the caliper and MC. Is that correct? Basically, once they deteriorate to a certain point, they're done?
Full confession: I’ve been using Park Tool grease on my XT 12 speed der. clutch and it’s always shifted like a champ.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums