Also, make sure to squint your eyes really tight, you know, just in case that grinding wheel shatters.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
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Also, make sure to squint your eyes really tight, you know, just in case that grinding wheel shatters.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
Sure, but for $11 pretty sure that's worth my $/time to just drop it in and get a go/no-go on my 5 bikes I actively ride most of the year.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
https://www.parktool.com/product/cha...dicator-cc-3-2
I did it outside with a mask and safety glasses. Used Dee’s lock on grip trick to trim a bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by s_squatch
Hope I didn’t make it too short!
Sent from the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Does this look like impact damage? Sold these two months ago on eBay and the buyer is trying to say they’re defective. https://i.imgur.com/vldxwkv.pnghttps://i.imgur.com/3yenKHf.png
Everything's defective if you smash it into a rock hard enough.
(Yes, looks like impact damage)
In a bold move you could just lash out and buy a go-no-go chain checker for < 20$ or just change chains yearly or sft
bike stores should be too busy making money to do shit for free, so they will still be there next year
edit: except for me, I want a deal and the free shit done of course
Safety squints!Quote:
Originally Posted by s_squatch
Almost as good as the shoulder shrug to protect your ears from the loud noise about to happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by abraham
Ok the carbon rim manufacturer concurs the damage is from a crash, not any manufacturer defect. Any bets on whether this guy will win his PayPal dispute two months after purchase and having admitted using the wheels?
He said the tires damaged his wheels?! WTF? Yeah it looks like impact damage!Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Are you a shop/dealer or was this a personal sale?Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Personal sale, indicated that on the sale listing, no warranty. Sounds like the buyer is easing off his PayPal dispute intentions. I think it helped I attached the email from the manufacturer stating the photos showed a crash/impact failure not a manufacturer defect.
I’m trying to get a replacement rim from the manufacturer, if that fails I’ll probably kick a few bucks back to the kid to help cover the wheel build for his new rim he has to buy.
Very nice of you to do that. The reason you buy new is for a warranty and coverage in situations like this - it is from a crash and he bought used that is his problem. But again, very nice of you to do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
I know this when I buy used and don't understand how other buyers don't. Sometimes it is good to decline a sale if someone seems a bit squirmy or cheap. Usually the person who just says I'll take it and pays asking price isn't the type of person to pull this kind of stuff.
^^^ Reminds me of a fork I sold in the "dorp to falt" era of the early 2000s on Pinkbike. A few weeks later I get an email from the kid who bought it asking why the fork is topping out. Then another claiming other issues saying this is unacceptable and demanding a refund. In the meantime I found pics he'd posted of himself on PB hucking off loading docks to flat and even a pic hucking off the roof of a building. The newer pics showed the fork in question on his bike. Um yeah, that might have something to do with it topping out.
Edit.
As long as you didn’t misrepresent the product in the description; I’d have a hard time seeing PayPal/eBay siding with the buyer... I’ve been fucked by eBay before though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
What’s the deal with this “straight head tube” thats on these transition bikes, does that mean a new fork steerer standard? They still take tapered? New headset standard? Why do they accommodate Angleset better than whatever’s on every other bike?
It's the same diameter as one of the really common tapered headtube lower cups, just on both ends. Not really a new standard, and at most it's just a different upper headset cup than normal. It gives you room to do an angleset without having to go to an external top cup. I'm into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
So I’m generally pretty good at tracking down creaks but this is a difficult one. My 150/160 29er has a carbon frame with a fully integrated headset, maybe 2500 miles on it. Creak is now noticeable riding whenever front wheel hits a square edged rock small or large. Creak happens as well if you just pick up the bike and drop it from a foot high.
FSA headset bearings spin smooth and seem like new. All interfaces (crown race, headset, all stem bolts, axle, etc) have been cleaned and regreased. When fork was put in a big ass vise yesterday, my 190 lbs couldn’t induce a creak in any direction (manitou has very good rep for not gett8ng the CSU creaks of a Fox or occasionally RS). Cables and brake lines entering the front of frame were cleaned and silicone sprayed.
The only small thing I noticed was that the aluminum compression (aka Split) ring between steerer and bearing is scored and slightly pitted. This style of headset uses a tall compression ring, so the usual rings (cane creek 40 or 110) won’t fit.
Any ideas on what to try next?
Take the front wheel off. Twist the lowers slightly. I bet you hear a creak, likely from the stanchion/crown interface.Quote:
Originally Posted by frorider
on carbon you wana use the carbon paste ime
On new yeti 5.5's my buddy & I had creaking seat posts, I tried grease/ lube/ wax chain lube/ teflon pipe tape/ every fucking thing and nothing could make it go away
until the carbon pas
Nope. Remember, the fork was removed and put in a vise to induce any possible creaks from steerer/crown or crown/stanchion interfaces….and no creaks could be found. This is the test bike shops usually do to justify warranty on CSU.Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
With wheel off, this creak can’t be induced by twisting force on fork. It happens when the headset area is loaded
yup good suggestion—carbon paste is essential for press fit BBs and headsets in carbon frames. Sorry I didn’t mention that I tried this already.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Is there a trick to make it easier to pop the seals out of a Rockshox fork? Yari in this case, and SRAM says to use a "downhill tire lever" which they show as full metal. I'm trying a couple wrenches, but it's got me wondering about denting this thing.
I did my ~2015 Pike with a flathead screwdriver and didn't have a problem.