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I love to bitch about my glass-top electric, but I'm so spoiled by the stupid easy cleanup that going to a gas range with grates, burners and tons of little nooks and crannies that need to be cleaned would kinda suck. An induction range that has the temp control of gas with even easier cleanup than a regular smooth-top electric sounds positively dreamy.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Yup, exact same one! Unfortunately there's one control board for both simmer burners (this item) -- they don't seem to manufacture them anymore so only ones for sale are outrageously priced private-party refurbsQuote:
Originally Posted by Pegleg
But the fact that the other simmer burner works gives some hope:
- It could be the potentiometer -- you could try switching the two and seeing if it makes the other burner work. It's a ~15 min exercise, removing the metal lid being the hardest part (video here). If that's it, they're <$30 (either this or this, depending on your vintage). Unfortunately I don't have working spares, because mine got fried. EDIT: maybe don't switch the two, just take the one from the working burner and wire it to the broken one, but don't connect the one from the broken burner...
- Could also be the solenoid (~$120, here). Seems that that would also be a straight part swap. While I don't know how to easily confirm if that's the problem, but some YouTube and a multimeter might tell you. I can take out the solenoids from mine before it gets hauled to the dump. Can't promise they work, but they'd be free
- Could be a clogged burner nozzle, but I figure a handyman would be able to check for that
Or it could be something else... I only know the above from a weekend's worth of YouTube
Final annoying factor: The countertop cutout will only fit certain brands. At least it narrows down replacement options
You'd be surprised what a life changer it is. I'm no dentist either, but if you cook a lot you'll feel the value.
For me it's one of those things that make me happy every time I use it.
And it really doesn't have a lot of nooks and crannies. I think it looks better than a used glass top, but that's just me. It actually gets kind of seasoned like a cast iron pan and anything that spills just goes right through the open burner to the catch tray. Yeah, you have to wipe it down after use sometimes, but pretty minimal effort.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pegleg
Serious question: Can I replace one of my burners with a wok burner? Something really inappropriate like in the 75k+ btu neighborhood.
I honestly know nothing about the plumbing or the orifices or any of it. What I do know is that 26k BTUs is not enough to heat the wok like it deserves to be heated. So if I can retrofit a big ole gnarly wok burner in there easily then I'm winning.
I've always wondered about this too. I take the grate off for wok, but it ain't enough.
My suspicion is that an orifice that delivers that kind of fuel is not within residential specs (insurance issues?) so they don't offer it. I'm sure someone could figure it out though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
Yeah, I'm guessing that it would be a totally off label use. But I'm not savvy enough about the plumbing to know if it's an easy matter of swapping out a couple of fittings or if it's a more involved project.
I wonder if a residential gas line is even capable of delivering that level of fuel? I know a guy who'd get a kick out of figuring out how to do it if I were so inclined....
Nat gas or propane? Big difference FWIG...
I helped (watched and did light muscle work) plum my grandparents 80k BTU nat gas garage heater with 3/4” pipe (1/2” inlet IIRC) a while back.
Get a wok for the Egg.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
https://biggreenegg.com/wp-content/u...3/wok-1600.jpg
So since we are talking stoves. I need a bomber NON exhausting hood fan with amazing filtration. What do they make these days? The technology has to have improved in the last 30 years since the previous owners installed what's there now. I just don't have an economical way to put in an actual exhaust because of the location. However I want to be able to really cook. Which means some oil, smoke, and grease. I am not going be putting in some jet burner powered wok, partly because I can't have adequate ventilation. And I don't like the whole house smelling like oil. I don't allow pan frying in the house for this reason.
That unicorn doesn’t really exist
Try a chem hood
(Actually that will be ducted too)
Yup, riser wants to have his cake and eat it too. I've got a good big hood with a good big blower all correctly ducted outside and the house still smells like stir fry after an extended wokking session. Cost of doing business, ya know?
I doubt it. I was watching a show a few years ago (one of Andrew Zimmerman's shows, I think) where they were in a restaurant kitchen somewhere with a chef that was doing some badass wok cooking. He said the supply line to the burner was 2 inches.Quote:
Originally Posted by oftpiste
You need one of these. A friend got one and loves it. It's only around 55K BTU, but seems to work well (true restaurant wok burners are like 150K BTU, which is silly). My understanding is that there isn't a simple way to get that kind of power out of a residential stove.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
Right, but there has to be something that is better after 30 years? I know it won't be perfect. I get that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
Also this. No first-hand experience but generally I trust Kenji with cooking things
what's better now is having a fresh air intake (preferably w/ a tempering device) for ducted hoods that are over 400cfm so that they perform their duty of actually pulling air instead of stagnatingQuote:
Originally Posted by riser3
otherwise, it's just recycling stale air
ever been in a chinese restaurant that doesnt stink of oil? They have some of the most powerful filtration and venting systems. As said price of doing business. I do have a nice frigidaire hood does not require additional exterior venting (no fresh air), just normal "home grade" 600CFM. works for most stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by riser3
A house built in 1950 probably doesn't need a dedicated fresh air intake. A house properly built in 2019 absolutely does.
Yeah, this. I have a roof mounted 750 CFM but the 1914 house leaks like a sieve, so I'm not too concerned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
haQuote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
Rule of thumb is divide the total btu by 100 to determine CFM. A 75 k burner by itself would be 750 cfm
Thanksgiving warm up.
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Just scored a BGE from a buddy, has sat unused for years, needed a lot of TLC, lots of mold/grease/build up. Its got a good crack that has been mostly patched, ordering some extreme heat jb weld for the outside/inside to patch that up and a new felt ring. Not bad for a 6er and some elk brats in trade. My only concern now is the dual regulator cast iron part on top appears to be fused to the egg, but, not sure its a big issue?
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Kids just gave me an early Father's Day gift!
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