Anyone else get some today...?

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Originally Posted by mrburns

First time on a surfboard today. Took a lesson on Playa Carmen in Malpais Costa Rica. Kinda started to figure it out by the end. I actually caught one wave, for about 1 second, but holy shit was it fun! Headed back out tomorrow for another ass kicking. So stoked!

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stoked for you!

love costa rica, both coasts. caribbean side for it's gritty grungy sand spitting heavy beach breaks, and west side for it's california-ized user friendly vacation everything feel. i'd go back year after year.

nothing to report from nh. haven't been out in a week and a half now, my longest outta the water stretch in like a year. tiny waves with onshore winds most of the time. getting back in great cycling shape tho. maybe a fun window of clean windswell in the a.m.

rog

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Originally Posted by icelanticskier

stoked for you!

love costa rica, both coasts. caribbean side for it's gritty grungy sand spitting heavy beach breaks, and west side for it's california-ized user friendly vacation everything feel. i'd go back year after year.

nothing to report from nh. haven't been out in a week and a half now, my longest outta the water stretch in like a year. tiny waves with onshore winds most of the time. getting back in great cycling shape tho. maybe a fun window of clean windswell in the a.m.

rog

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Thanks! Went out again today, getting a little better, but was feeling the muscles that I apparently used yesterday that I didn't know I had. I did ride a wave all the way to the beach though! That was pretty damn sweet. My biggest problem so far is figuring out where to position myself in the water to "catch the wave". I kept finding myself either too far away from the beach or too close. Also burying the nose a bit more often than I would like. Guess it's just gonna take some practice. It's a great humbling experience for sure. I just have to keep reminding myself how long it took to not suck at skiing. Back at it tomorrow!

i want to learn to surf -- tried once at montanita in ecuador a long time ago and rode a wave in and it was like being struck by lightning. went out on the oregon coast a couple years ago on a longer board which made a world of difference. unfortunately, i read the opening chapter of jaws when i was 8 and it kept me out of anything more than waist deep for many years.

i'm askeered of sharks.

^^^^I learned to surf at 34, so it took me awhile to even stand up for a moment. To short of a board didn't help either. So if you want to learn, I hope you have some time and a 9ft+ board to practice with. Surfing takes a lot of time to get down.

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Originally Posted by liv2ski

^^^^I learned to surf at 34, so it took me awhile to even stand up for a moment. To short of a board didn't help either. So if you want to learn, I hope you have some time and a 9ft+ board to practice with. Surfing takes a lot of time to get down.

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congrats! yeah, it was obvious that it would take a lot of time. since i picked up snowboarding and then golf late in life, i'm not sure how much time i'm going to have to learn snowboarding, but it's still there in the back of my mind. if i move to south america more permanently in the future it will be a lot easier. oregon coastal waters are pretty damn cold.

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Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

thats why surfing is hard... you have to earn it all

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and waves are always changing in every way. no two the same, meaning you never really master the art.

happy fathers day. headed out seacoast nh with waist high warblers in mind. showed up at 545 am with many waves twice that size and clean/lining up. finally a day that warrants using the comp weight leg cord. hate using leashes, but nice to have an excuse.

many familiar dads out in the linup. they were stoked. i had a less than stellar session. caught some nice ones, but definitely wasn't on my game. happens. still got a great workout, and went out of my way to duck em in the impact zone to get a lil more exercise in.

after an hour and twenty of being in the wrong place at the wrong time, waves were super shifty and i was a lil less than patient for much of the time, i called it a morning for my drive down to the cape for family festivities. maybe catch an early morning sesh before heading back to nh for an evening surf.

the 2pm mountain bike ride with the boyz will be fun today. hopefully they take it easy on me. won't happen. i'll be torched.

gorgeous day

rogblog

Well, after 25 days on the couch for a hernia surgery I finally got back into the water today. It might have been small and blown out but the sun was shining, the water 68-70 degrees and the view was better than the one from my couch.

Take a look...
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5756/img4855m.jpg

WOO HOO, I ‘m fucking healed!!!!!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by PowerWhore7

Well, after 25 days on the couch for a hernia surgery I finally got back into the water today. It might have been small and blown out but the sun was shining, the water 68-70 degrees and the view was better than the one from my couch.

Take a look...
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5756/img4855m.jpg



WOO HOO, I ‘m fucking healed!!!!!!!!!!

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Love seeing that sign. I surfed newps this morning. Definitely nothing special, but worth going out.

Heheh. Usually, that sign is little more blurry than that:smile:

after surfing like crap in good waves yesterday, today i surfed like i like to in the junkiest crap imaginable. funneh how that works sometimes. choppy waist+ but the rocks had just 2 guys out and the ledge was lining and cleaning up the junk enough for even the placebo epoxy rocket to not get tossed around.

wind goes offshore for the morning with swell still present. looking forward to not having to work till noon.

rog

Not much on tap for Orange County until late in the week. Swell watch is saying the Trestles area will have something Friday and Saturday, as in something in the chest high range, which is exciting to me after this last weekend. I might be able to leave the office a bit early on Friday, and get an afternoon session.

I was hoping to surf Saturday morning in newport, but it looks like even getting mediocre surf will require a Trestles drive.

I hope to get into the water on Thursday, as a little SW swell is forecasted then and Friday. I have been really lame over the last 3 months and haven't surfed much for one reason or another. With the wife off for the summer and business super slow, I ordered a new 2mm short sleeve full suit for the early am session. Now I just need a little surf to get me moving.

the groundswell continues, but with an uptick and more favorable winds. what was choppy waist + yesterday became perfect walled up offshore cleanliness. due to a bunch o south in the wind i drove a few miles south over the mass/nh border where the beaches face more north. nh beaches had a lil texture going on, can't have that. waist/chest/shoulder hollow dump you on yer ass if you missed the drop, surf. this particular break snaps boards even when the waves are just head high. felt just like a spot i surfed on the caribbean coast this winter. pick a corner, any corner. any hesitation or even an extra blink of an eye and you were too far behind. the ones made tho were fucking rocket fast. good reading day fer sure.

swell should pick up a lil bit more for the evening session. stoked for that. morning looks good too with even better winds for all beaches.

git sum!

rog

L2S, my water time was been minimal past few months too. No real reason for it either, just lack of motivation. Let's surf if you head up to N. County.

Despite my lack of water time recently, I did manage to paddle out on Saturday and catch a few fun ones. Waist high on average with 1 set that came through about nipple high. Caught a few fun turns, felt the sunshine fill my soul and super mellow vibe in the lineup. Overall a pretty fun day considering the meager surf.

Went down to Old Mans in SC today, basically to play with the dog but I had my fingers crossed that there might be a wave or two. Looks like some surf for this weekend though...

Didn’t quite work out for me but the mutt had a blast.

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8628/img4873ol.jpg

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/4069/img4874hs.jpg

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/9391/img4875ru.jpg

A little afternoon radiation to keep me healthy...
http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/9257/img4861wr.jpg
“everywhere I look something reminds me of her"

Been having fun with the windswell the past few weeks. Found out on of my summer spots gets quite fun with an 8@10 and a little SW combo. We have the 8@10 this morning and just a tad of background south. Feeding the boy, waking mom, and then checking it out. Now i just need a proper board

I'd kill for some 8@10 right now

the nh fun continues....

after the dredging sandspitting fun in mass yesterday morning followed by a mellow waist high forever long ride night session in southern maine after work last night, my 2 sessions this am were just as good if not better. rye beach was small but perfectly formed thigh high rocket-able surf followed by an all of a sudden super fun late morning session at the wall. waist high sets with power. some perfect a-frames. at work now constructing a plan to get out early for session #3 tonight.

soooooo good. waves for dayz.

rog

I blew my first funemployment check on this...
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...64168139_n.jpg

...and a month of funemployment checks is spancering a trip to here:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...at114241PM.jpg


Meanwhile, it's onshore 2-3 foot closeouts

nice use of it!^^^^^^^^

back to walden pond for nh. size really dropped yesterday afternoon so i did other things. looks like some activity for mid late next week. gonna be landlocked in northern vermont the next 3 days. will be tolerable knowing i won't be missing any wave action.

looking forward to seeing/reading some cali stoke!

hot as ballz here

rog

Nice purchase(s), what dimensions on the board? I have a small wave board but put a thumbtail on it and it's really versatile, doesn't slide out in overhead hollow conditions. I used to only have round pins/thumbs on my big wave boards but my point of view is changing

5'11 x 18 3/4 x 2 1/4 Semi Pro 12. My old ones are 6'2" Tangent / Rookie and I needed something looser but still kept it together in the solid juice.

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I needed something looser but still kept it together in the solid juice.

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That's how I'd describe my board. I dropped from a 6'2" to a 5'10"x19.25x2.4 and threw that round tail on it, exceeded my expectations. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo but looks like there's a decent amount of rocker on that board

More Superstar Punani less Icelanticskier

nice don. looks like you are on the governors surf team. we bought a house with my funemployment and all my boards are ancient. then the mrs. explained that i won't be able to surf as much once i go back for work, so i should just dip into the safety funds and replace my daily driver. so, did you get that stick for $450, or did you use more than one check? at that price, i could forego the epoxy last forever model.

seeing i designed my current board something like a decade ago, i need a schooling. And like supu and piggity, i need something loose and fun in the small stuff, but can still dig and grab when it hits head high and hollow... suggestions?