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I'll admit to not riding my hardtail much. But, 1) I have it because I had almost a full bike's worth of spare parts collecting dust and the frame was only $300, so it was a pretty cheap acquisition; and 2) my noggin was too sensitive most of last year. I need to start riding it again now that I can handle the chattering and am cleared to ride jumps.
I have a Trek Stache (aluminum, but wish it was carbon!) 29+ HT that I really like. It isn't as capable as my trail bike, but it's a lot more efficient - even with 3" tires. With all that rubber I run Bontrager XR2s which has tiny knobs pretty much everywhere but it still feels like it gets a lot of grip because the contact patch is larger.
It comes stock with a 120mm fork which puts the HTA at about 68 and STA at about 69 (not sure if that's effective STA). I have a 150mm fork on it currently but I think that might be too much and will probably decrease to 130.
It is super versatile - I ride it on mellow trails that don't warrant the trail bike, I ride it with my 4yo either either the tag along or the Mac-Ride. I've bike packed with it. I sold the Fat Bike because I can run studs on this bike and still ride outside in the winter.
It has sliding dropouts and an elevated chainstay so you could set it up as a SS. Might be worth a look.
Seth
I'm hoping to temporarily switch a cyclocross bike to a gravel grinder, so I need a bigger cassette. Right now there is sram force 1x with a 28t cassette. I'd like to get a 42t cassette, but I'm not sure if the derailleur will work. I have an old SRAM X1 derailleur from my mountain bike, if I got a bigger cassette could that work? Would I need a longer chain as well?Attachment 375536
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I'm pretty skeptical your current derailleur would have the range for a 10-42.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teenaged
X1 derailleur won't work - different cable pull ratio on mountain vs road shifters.
However, there is probably a doohickey or trick of some kind to get them to work together.
Not that I know of, there was never really any use for a way to use a 1x11 mtb derailleur with road shifters because the road 1x derailleurs all come in a long cage version that handles a 10-42. Whether any sram "road" 1x11 long cage RDs are available is another question though.
Thanks allThere exists a CX1 long cage derailleur, but they are quite expensive. I was hoping to make due with what I have, but after doing some more reading the cable pull is 3.1 for road and 3.5 for mountain. Looks like I'll need a new derailleur along with buying a bigger cassette, oh well.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Will I need to get a longer chain for a bigger cassette? The current chain is barely used, but if it's sized for a 28t it could be too short?
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You can use apex or rival to save money.
Yes you will need a longer chain.
Thanks for the help, I think I've got everything nowQuote:
Originally Posted by jamal
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If the chain is pretty fresh, you could just insert a bit of chain with another master link. A shop would probably have a few links they'd give you.
I got a good deal on the bike anyway so another $20 for a chain isn't too badQuote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
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I wonder if you can just buy a replacement cage?Quote:
Originally Posted by Teenaged
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looks like it
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-cage-assembly
Second Try. Anyone know anything about old XT pistons?
Shimano xt m775 brake pistons. These are the metallic pistons with ceramic center. Same size as the 675 and 785? I can find lots of piston kits for those, but none for the 775. Are these xt 2 buckets all the same size?
Having some issues with my pedals, Shimano XT clips (M8120? The platform model).
One of them started releasing a bit too randomly for my taste after 3 years of faithful service. I tightened all 4 tension screws by a couple cliks and if anything it made one side of the left pedal even looser. No obvious damage to the pedal, they've hit rock probably 2000 times, sometimes at speed, but nothing appears bent or mashed. Thoughts?
It resulted in a spectacular digger right in front of Ms Boissal yesterday while coming out of a creek. I pulled on the pedals to lift the back over a rock, left foot flew up without the bike, I pushed the nose hard and endoed straight into the water. While I love entertaining my wife with this kind of nonsense I prefer to limit my swimming time on bike rides...
Time for new cleats.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Should have specified that the cleats look pretty damn good still, that was my first thought as I walk quite a bit of nasty rock. I figured it was more likely to be the pedal itself since the issue is only on one side of the left one, the other side still has full retention.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Edit: any benefit in replacing the top plate? $5 part and it's the only thing that shows some obvious wear.
Which cleats? The multi-release cleats (SH56) will release on a hard pull in almost any direction except down. The standard ones (SH51) are more predictable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Or, as toast suggested, your cleats may be worn. Either way a new set of SH51 cleats may help.
SH51, I remember trying multi-release cleats bitd and coming out of them every which way no matter how much tension I had on the set screw. These things may work well for commuting but for riding chunk they're terrifying.Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
Regardless, I'll throw new cleats on, thanks for the suggestions/
besides replacing cleats which IME last forever, Check the tension setting on the peddle, I set SPD's by backing out the screw til they stop clicking/detenting and then turning them in the number of clicks you use, don't forget to do both sides
i think they come set at 9 which is too much for me
I like 5 or 6
to start a newbie using SPD's I would start at 3
I find that when the cleats are really worn, they actually get much harder to release.
Good luck!
yeah the part of the cleat that actulay contacts the pedal mechanism is up on the underside of the cleat and the part of the pedal mechansim that contacts the cleat is on also protected by being on the inside of the pedalQuote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I have never found Cleats to be a problem unless they loosen off, gotta retork with loctite
My experience is that cleat wear is such a slow process that they look fine and feel relatively fine (although more floaty.....with some prerelease thrown in like Boissal mentioned) and it's not until you put new cleats on do you realize how worn the old ones were.
I am running XTR trail pedals fwiw.
I replace cleats on about a yearly basis. They start feeling a bit loose and pre-release even with the tension really cranked up. But I do ride a lot plus cyclocross is not particularly kind to them.
Make sure the pedal plate screws are all snug and plates are not bent/worn.