Un comprehensive would be a drill a bit a tsquare a tape, a roll of painters tape a pen
if you can not figure this out on your own
you should pay someone with the comprehensive array of tools
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Un comprehensive would be a drill a bit a tsquare a tape, a roll of painters tape a pen
if you can not figure this out on your own
you should pay someone with the comprehensive array of tools
Don't forget a dull drill bit and wine cork. ;)
OK so jhyatt got the idea right away that a wooden block or cork between ski and drill will prevent drilling thru bases but you did not really understand a mechanical thing so you do not look at something and understand how it works
many people in the 293 pages that do not have a clue about tools or mechanical stuff it can't be taught you either get it or you dont
which is alwasy easy to tell by the things people say in the thread
33k posts?!! wow get a life! or get off your computer and actually go skiing.
it will be 20 yrs in june with no job SO while you may have to play hard ball i do not
In any case the 33k posts are just repeatin the same shit over to fuccking dentist and over while I eat breafast in the PNW time zone
the same shit that one could acertain by doing a fucking search or even just paging back a few
in any case yer not from around here are you kid
"the same shit that one could ascertain by doing a fucking search or even just paging back a few"
in the jongs defense the search function on here is terrible, much like the posting picture and quote features
it's a free resource and all but this may be the most bush league forum i'm familiar with
One can get decent search results by typing a query like "binding mount tools site:tetongravity.com" into google.
To mount your own fucking skis you can start with something like:
drill, drill bit, paper template, a real Pozidrive screwdriver - not a phillips and IMO not just a pozi bit, you need the length sometimes, center punch, ruler, proper mounting screws, A PAIR OF JUNK SKIS that you got at the thrift store or wherever. Maybe the correct tap if your skis need it (Some people can likely figure out how to deal with this, but they probably don't need advice for jongs.) Plus: masking tape and pencil and other normal stuff, and some basic mechanical common sense.
You can buy almost all of this shit easily, except the common sense. Mount the bindings to the junk skis, not to a 2x4. Expect to make some mistakes the first time around. Unscrew the bindings, figure out the mistakes and correct them before trying again. If you can't figure out the mistakes, or if you do something bad to the screws so that they can't be reused, take the bindings and good skis to a shop and have them do it.
I have seen the exact same question asked within 1page of this thread so whats that a couple of hrs , hence the suggestion to try a little harder? SO some folks could look a little harder and its obvious Some of these posters don't know which end of the screwdriver to use but thats what the thread is all aboutQuote:
Originally Posted by waxman
you are totally right
AND
you are annoying
that’s ok - you give a shit and you’re engaged and invested in this ongoing conversation
carry on
you wana take over sport ?
naw you’ve got yer groove on keep it rolling if it makes you happy
I don’t have the time or the energy to get upset and respond at people asking the same questions repeatedly
carry on
Is this entire thread not about helping people learn to mount their skis... and then someone comes in and asks a question to learn and gets attacked ??????
the people asking the questions will also give you grief the people who should just bareley be allowed to own tools will ask the same question over and over for 294 pages its like ground hogday
you are annoying
I will give you a tip if one is going to spend their whole life being annoying they learn pretty quick
to be right
https://www.skitalk.com/threads/moun...-budget.26106/Quote:
Originally Posted by Rg2flp
Honestly, this is the best guide. And his templates are spot on.
That's actualy a pretty good ^^ guide I like that buddy drills pilot holes and uses a 5/32 cuz using tape I have drilled thru using a piece of tape tape but never with a stop block AKA a wine bottle cork like the epoxy
Thats a cool idea. I have a metal collar to set as a depth stop but it scrathes the top sheet. After a pilot and tepping up in size for BF or QK inserts it usually looks like crap.
Congratulations you are smart enough to see how shit works and are there fore not a total washout forma mechanical perspective ^^ prolly even know which end of the screwdriver to hold
I have had collars and tape markers slip as well but a stop block is idiot proof cuz all that can happen if the bit slips is you don't drill deep enough
a wine bottle cork will also let you hold the drill by the handle and the bit for mondo control and its small enough so you can see what you are drilling
pretty stokedhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...57cceda39c.jpg
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yummy
After my first test mount with SPX 11s, the forward pressure indicator is at about one click from the rear. https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings..._pressure.jpeg One tooth position with tab moves 3mm and creates a conflict with the heel tech clip on my Quattros. When the boot is forced in, the indicator closer to center. I suppose I could shift the mount 1mm and the clip will barely clear and in theory move the indicator 1mm towards center. Worth splitting hairs here or let it ride barely in the indicator window? Which SPXs have the forward pressure screw adjustment vs the tabs with teeth? FTR it appears the SPX system with tab and tooth adjustment range is around 45mm, correct? https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...ent_range.jpeg Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools
We'll see how the forward pressure holds up: https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...P_mounted.jpeg Tools used: https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...ing_tools.jpeg Screwed Bindings into layout tool to check fit and layout: https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...out_tool1.jpeg https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...out_tool2.jpeg Definitely perform a test mount to be sure how binding fits and adjusts: https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...st_mount2.jpeg A couple reminders/tips to toss out:
- Rotate centerline tool 180 degrees to double check accuracy
- clamp straight edge
- secure skis to bench
- eyeball test mount with layout before drilling skis
- after punching holes, drill a few revolutions in reverse to assure there is no drill tip wandering
- check that bindings lay flat on skis
- use tootpick to remove glue bubbles & coat sides of holes
https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...enterline.jpeg https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...ight_edge.jpeg https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...cure_skis.jpeg https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...all_mount.jpeg https://www.slidewright.com/Bindings...tap_holes.jpeg http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/...lue_holes.jpeg
Just picked up a pair of Salomon QSTs. Wood core ski with just a titanal mounting plate.
The topsheet does not say 3.6 or 4.1, but has a code - G1.
Looking at an old manual from 2021 it shows G1 is a 4.1mm bit, but says NOT to tap. Anyone have experience not tapping a 4.1mm hole? Id be happy to skip that step if its not needed.
Perhaps its a thinner sheet of metal than a ski with real metal in it?
https://ibb.co/VYpK08M7
I think lots of people mounting their own bindings have done skis with a metal sheet without tapping. Maybe more than the amount of people who buy the correct tap...I know I have done without in the past.
It can be a little tricky to get the screws started straight, but then again sometimes its hard to get the tap started straight too. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Not sure what it would hurt if you did tap them? The screw shafts are 4.1mm and the metal won’t compress like the wood cores if you used a 3.5mm tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB
The above FX96s have a metal mounting plate with carbon/wood cores. 4.1mm x 9.5mm tip and 12AB tap.
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Use a drill block to guide the tap, its foolproof.Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
https://imgur.com/a/EfHFgLM
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Looking to unmount my own fucking skis and running into issues removing demo plate screws. Things won’t budge and don’t want to strip. Used a screwdriver and body weight and no movement. Any tips? I haven’t stripped them yet. Heat the screw to maybe soften any epoxy in there? I didn’t mount them so not sure what was used. Attack [emoji637][emoji639] demo bindings on a Kastle FX. Thanks
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Impact driver
yeah SO if you have a 100Wsoldering iron many cheap irons are only 25W put the iron on the screw head and count to 10 if that does not work count to 20 and if you seee plastic bining shim start to melt STOP cuz it should be hot enough LOL
rif you don't owna soldering iron put a 1/4 in drill bit in your drill BACKWARDS and run the drill shank at high speed in either dirction
the friction will heat the screw and soften the epoxy do this ANY time a screw does not come out becuz you prolly do not know how the binding was mounted
some times a crew will not budge even if you do know you just used white glue in any case do not strip the head
Thanks. I’ll attempt the friction heat method. ?
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sure ^^ the drill bit method is really good to remember if you have DEEP screw holes in a binding or if for any reason you can't get a soldering iron at the screw head, i think i heard this on telemarktips WAY back in the day
Got around to remounting some skis I bought from a guy who claimed he used to be a ski tech. He had recently remounted the bindings
Pulled them off and found out he had mixed blue Loctite with wood glue, wtf. Was still wet 2 weeks after install and some weird crumbly texture, although inside the holes themselves just seemed sort of greasy
Thankfully I could remount far away from those holes and they have metal in the top sheets (maybe that’s why he thought somehow putting Loctite was a good idea? “Wood glue for the wood core” and “Loctite for the thin metal layer”? )
For fucks sake. Should have taken pictures
Buddy had probably ran out of red loctite lol !
Buddy might still be high from whatever fumes resulted from that mixture.
Well he was from Portland…
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Lots of companies make the holes on the bindings for the screws so tight that they engage the binding screw threads and make flushing the binding to the ski difficult to impossible. I like a tight hole as much as the next guy, but why the fuck do they do this, and is there any reason not to just open them up a bit to have them clear the screws? Isn't snugging the binding to the ski way more important? I did this on my last mount and skiied them one day and didn't die.
I think it’s solely so they can preinstall screws during manufacturing/shipping in the box without them falling out. Otherwise it’s just poor mechanical engineering design, should never have a screw threading into two adjacent parts in an assembly.
At this point I just drill or ream out the holes on my bindings before install so they become tight clearance thru holes
I use a RC car body reamer I’ve had forever, actually works very well to increase the diameter of plastic holes
https://a.co/d/6aZV021
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I'm glad im not the only person who thought this was odd and could cause problems
Keep in mind some of the screws for the Dynafit product ARE different lengths or maybe the captured screws are some either some kind of
we will rule the world and we know what is good for you
OR they didnt wana pay for them little baggys to put the screws in
I'm reading Apocalypse Watch by Robert Ludlum so i may be triggered here
I guess if they're just threaded into plastic that they're expecting to yield when you're screwing in that's one thing, but on the Attack 13s I mounted it was the rearmost holes in the metal heel mounting plate that they were threading into which nobody would expect to yield before the ski materials. Also they do have different front and rear screw lengths so keeping them in the right locations is a lazy but valid reason, but at the very least they should put some sort of wording in the tech manual or a tag on the binding itself to open the holes up. Now that I know I'll always check but it's a key piece of information that could easily cause spinners and volcanoes.
Inserts=no spinners. Inserts=no volcanoes. They are not the answer for everybody but Ive found over the years that they are the answer.