Ask the experts

It seems to only still happen when it is in the 46/11 gear. I can get it to happen on the stand by smashing on the cranks like I was a broduro hack. With the Sram pulley wheel it stopped doing that and gave the chain more tension with slightly larger pulley wheel. I lubed the internal spring to the derailleur also.

Before I replaced most of the drivetrain she claimed it happened all the time. She isn't known for her smooth shifts. I can hear her climbing behind me by the groans of the gears when she shifts at the wrong time. After enough complaining she has gotten better. Again thank you Eagle.

How different is geo on a road bike vs a hybrid/city bike?

I.e. if I were to stumble into a screaming deal on a road bike that can fit at least 28c tires, maybe 32c, and I don't want to commute on drop bar is it worth switching to a flat or rise bar with new shifter and brake levers or is the geo always just gonna suck ?

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Originally Posted by dcpnz

How different is geo on a road bike vs a hybrid/city bike?

I.e. if I were to stumble into a screaming deal on a road bike that can fit at least 28c tires, maybe 32c, and I don't want to commute on drop bar is it worth switching to a flat or rise bar with new shifter and brake levers or is the geo always just gonna suck ?

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My commuter/ bar bike is a road bike swapped to flat bars. It’s awesome to have something with road bike speed but (somewhat) comfy geo... A few notes:

- Stretched out and wide arms sucks. So you need to chop those endurobro 780 bars to like 680 or skinnier. Maybe buy a short stem, riser stem, high rise bar, a bar with a big sweep, etc... having a local used bike shop where you can exchange parts is key to find that good cockpit. Essentially you want to pull those hands up and back...

- Finding the brake levers with the correct pull and shifters that are compatible can be somewhat difficult.... but Google is your friend...

- 32c seems to be the magic tire size for speed /comfort on city streets...


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Originally Posted by dcpnz

How different is geo on a road bike vs a hybrid/city bike?

I.e. if I were to stumble into a screaming deal on a road bike that can fit at least 28c tires, maybe 32c, and I don't want to commute on drop bar is it worth switching to a flat or rise bar with new shifter and brake levers or is the geo always just gonna suck ?

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or go at it from the other direction, look for an older HT mtn bike, it will all be there already just change the tires to your app and yer good to go

my old HT mtn bike is a steel framed Kona I bought my kid 20 yrs ago which I liberated from him before he could free ride it into junk,

I've toured with it in France, Spain, AK and with 1.25 slicks its pretty fast

Anyone running the Specialized Atlas Knee pads? Looking for sizing recommendation.

I've been using the Race Face Charger pads since they first launched and time for some replacements. These are basically knee warmers with some abrasion protection, not really looking for an "enduro" level pad.

In my experience, the sizing charts for knee pads have been accurate, and usually tell you to get a bigger size than you'd expect. Apparently pad sizing is based off skinny models who have never skied or biked a day in their life. (I'm 5'8" 165, 32" waist and wear a size medium for almost everything else, but across brands wear size large pads.) Usually the chart will specify a distance to measure around the thigh from the center of kneecap, and around the thickest part of the calf. Brands that I've used that have been true to size charts: Fox, TLD, Leatt, POC, Chromag, 7iDP, IXS, Race Face.

Yes, I have tried a lot of pads. I have a hard time finding the goldilocks pad that I can pedal for 3+ hours in without chafing or adjusting, stays put and doesn't tear in crashes, and is slim enough to fit under riding pants.

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Originally Posted by Andeh

Yes, I have tried a lot of pads. I have a hard time finding the goldilocks pad that I can pedal for 3+ hours in without chafing or adjusting, stays put and doesn't tear in crashes, and is slim enough to fit under riding pants.

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IXS Flow's are the best I've found for a pedal-able pad that actually have some ok protection.

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Originally Posted by toast2266

IXS Flow's are the best I've found for a pedal-able pad that actually have some ok protection.

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Yeah, tried the Flow due to great reviews. They were pretty comfortable for the most part, but chafed my upper shin relentlessly for some reason. The Trigger does not (presumably because it goes down further and bridges the transition from knee to shin better) but they're pretty bulky and hot. I've kept those around for whenever I'm ever able to make it out to Northstar again.

Partial list of other pads I've tried in last few years:
7iDP Sam Hills: mesh sleeve tore where sleeve met pad on crash, letting pad peel back, leading to nasty scrape. Chafing above knee on replacement pair. Foam padding for side-of-knee protection (not reactive gel). Too bulky under pants.
Fox Enduro Pro: mesh sleeve tore where sleeve met pad on crash, letting pad peel back, leading to nasty scrape. Newer version with D3O chafes above knee for some reason where old non-D3O didn't. No side of knee protection. Fit well under pants.
Race Face Indy v2: not left/right specific, don't match shape of kneecap well. Chafed above and below knee, presumably due to shape. No side of knee protection. Fit ok under pants. Very breathable.
Leatt Airflex Hybrid: upper silicon grippers not very grippy and constantly slip down, which leads to chafing above knee. Fabric sock in the front feels durable, but warmer than average. Fit well under pants, but since they slip down it's kind of a moot point. Minimal side-of-knee padding. Keeping them a while longer to potentially use for DJ.
Chromag Rift Zone: so far no irritation or durability issue. Stay put very well. Slightly on warm side. A bit thicker than most pads, coupled with coarse front fabric make them not great under pants (friction). Good side-of-knee protection. Includes thin foam padding underneath the reactive gel - feels like this would really help dissipate direct hits. My go-to pad right now.

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Originally Posted by Andeh

Yeah, tried the Flow due to great reviews. They were pretty comfortable for the most part, but chafed my upper shin relentlessly for some reason. The Trigger does not (presumably because it goes down further and bridges the transition from knee to shin better) but they're pretty bulky and hot. I've kept those around for whenever I'm ever able to make it out to Northstar again.

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If you can find a pair, check out the Sweet Protection knee pads. They're a bit hotter than the Flows and maybe don't stay put quite as well, but they're better for avoiding chafeyness, and they don't have any mesh (which tears and fails approximately 100% of the time).

I've struggled with pads over the years also. I don't even remember all the ones I've tried. The other issue is I'm a Large typically, but right on the edge of Medium.

I've bought Fox Launch and have been happy, but they stretch out and the velcro doesn't get tight enough. So I bought Mediums and they're tight, really tight, but every ride they're getting more comfortable.

I also bought the Leatt Knee Guard 3DF Hybrid in L/XL and they were a great fit. But then the velcro failed. It wouldn't stay stuck any longer. I just sent them back for a warranty issue. They're only five months old.

I have a pair of Dakine Slayer I think. Bought those thinking I'd wear under riding pants. Lacking velcro I tried medium and they cut into the back of knee.

I've had sixsixone pads that were not very good also.

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Originally Posted by toast2266

If you can find a pair, check out the Sweet Protection knee pads. They're a bit hotter than the Flows and maybe don't stay put quite as well, but they're better for avoiding chafeyness, and they don't have any mesh (which tears and fails approximately 100% of the time).

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The "Guards" (without upper velcro strap), or "Pads" (with upper velcro strap)? I'm generally not a fan of upper velcro straps, but elastic bands just above the calf (like the Chromag have) are awesome for helping hold pads up unobtrusively.

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Originally Posted by Andeh

The "Guards" (without upper velcro strap), or "Pads" (with upper velcro strap)? I'm generally not a fan of upper velcro straps, but elastic bands just above the calf (like the Chromag have) are awesome for helping hold pads up unobtrusively.

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They've changed them a little bit from when I had them, but mine were the "Pads" (formerly called the Bearsuit lite, or something like that). Fully agree that I prefer the velcro strap below the knee. But those things were super comfy (or at least my old ones were). They use a neoprene sort of material for the sleeve that doesn't chafe and stays put pretty well.

Riding pants....what's wrong with you people????

The Specialized size chart is their generic clothing chart so not helpful in measuring for pads. Tags are long cut out of my RF Chargers but I think they are medium. Going to gamble on medium.

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Originally Posted by shirk

Riding pants....what's wrong with you people????

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Poison oak is bad, mmmk?

Ymmv (and I’m no expert) but I’ve been perfectly happy with Leatt Airflex Pros. Breathable, decent protection, and have stayed put on my skinny legs.


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I think it was Dakine slayer that are fine

Do any of you go to an actual store where you try them on to get the right size and then pay list ?

Those Chromag pads look nice…. Unfortunately all sold out.


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Shimano xt m775 brake pistons. These are the metallic pistons with ceramic center. Same size as the 675 and 785? I can find lots of piston kits for those, but none for the 775. Are these xt 2 buckets all the same size?

The only way I can see this happening is if here is not enough tension between the upper pulley and the gear selected (or the chain can twist as there is to much of a gap).

Three options:
* chain length
** B-Gap
*** RD Spring is worn and the unit needs to be replaced.

My money would be on the b-gap being wrong and that being made worse by things being worn in general.

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Originally Posted by kalisto

in the first shot, is the chain on the smaller font ring? honestly looks like the chain might be too long.

it sized properly?

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I think it was Dakine slayer that are fine

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I've been in these for a couple pairs and like them, pretty comfy, stay in place, no irritation...I'm a skinny f'er and can't remember if I sized down to smalls or stayed in mediums, and the tags are all worn down so can't tell.

I had used the Race Face Indy's but yeah, the length and shape of the protective part caused a lot of irritation and chafing below the knee to the point I couldn't wear them as they rubbed the skin raw. Wife still has them too but has been complaining about them doing the same thing after almost every ride so can't recommend those.

Bike has a full Shimano drivetrain. Just swapped the Shimano crank and ring with a RF crank and ring. It pedals and shifts fine but there's a slight grinding feeling/sound.

Looks like RF sells Shimano 12sp specific chainrings. Do I need to get a Shimano-specific chainring? Can I just swap in a SRAM chain?

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Bike has a full Shimano drivetrain. Just swapped the Shimano crank and ring with a RF crank and ring. It pedals and shifts fine but there's a slight grinding feeling/sound.

Looks like RF sells Shimano 12sp specific chainrings. Do I need to get a Shimano-specific chainring? Can I just swap in a SRAM chain?

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You need the Shimano specific ring for the 12 speed stuff. Wolf tooth makes a nice one as well.

You want to keep the Shimano cassette and chain together, that’s where the magic of HG+ shifting happens. Before buying an HG compatible chainring, try a SRAM eagle masterlink, that is where the ‘grinding’ sound usually comes from.

Tell me about adding more air/PSi to fork/shock vs adding tokens and using same or less air.

Obviously (if it’s even attainable) ideal is supple, good small sensitivity off the top and ramping up towards mid and end stroke

5’9
190 kitted
120 pike ultimate running stock tokens and 105ish psi
Sidlux ultimate rear shock, whatever is in there at stock baseline, 250 psi

Seems like using a lot of travel, having said that it’s a short travel bike and I like to run decent clips down trails you could easily justify bigger bikes (PNW west of cascades).

The initial sensitivity and suppleness seem ok? But obviously could always be befter

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Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac

Tell me about adding more air/PSi to fork/shock vs adding tokens and using same or less air.

Obviously (if it’s even attainable) ideal is supple, good small sensitivity off the top and ramping up towards mid and end stroke

5’9
190 kitted
120 pike ultimate running stock tokens and 105ish psi
Sidlux ultimate rear shock, whatever is in there at stock baseline, 250 psi

Seems like using a lot of travel, having said that it’s a short travel bike and I like to run decent clips down trails you could easily justify bigger bikes (PNW west of cascades).

The initial sensitivity and suppleness seem ok? But obviously could always be befter

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In general, if we're talking about setups that take about the same amount of force to bottom out, the less air / more tokens setup is going to give better small bump sensitivity, and the more air / fewer tokens one will give more midstroke support but be less supple off the top.