small piece of an aluminum can?Quote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
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small piece of an aluminum can?Quote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
good idea. worth a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon
is the 7mm rule pretty hard and fast when redrilling close to old holes, or can you steelwoolepoxybambooskewer your way out of a deathtrap of a ski when mounting again?
collars or tape will shift on the drill bitQuote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
so instead drill thru a piece of wood and slide the bit in/out in the chuck till you got the depth you want
its fool proof cuz if the bit loosens you just don't drill as far
a wine cork is the perfect sized piece of wood, a drill with a cord even has reverse a big thing back then, life in the ghetto's of narthern BC eh
a good thing to do it put an old washer between the drill chuck and the cork just in case it scours off the cork you could drill too deep
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Thx on the cork idea... used that last night on my practice round. Handy. Kept dremmeling the cork down to get it just right
Another jong confirm question - when tapping with a t-handle, when the tap stops and the handle still turns around the tap, I assume I'm bottomed out in the hole? And that's my sign vs having to put tape or a stop on the tap
Thx again all
So the idea is to just slip the bit up or down in the drill chuck till you got the right amount of drill bit sticking out the end of the cork and tighten the chuck so there is no need to cut or dremel anythingQuote:
Originally Posted by m104da
the reason for using a cork was that when i was looking for something to use it was about the right size to do this with a 5/32nds drill bit but you could use any piece of wood that is 1 1/2 or 2 inches thick
you could even make it into a drill guide if you can get the drill bit very perpendicular to the ski
I stop when I start to feel an increase in resistance - about 4 turns with my tap. Paint the tap at 9mm if you're paranoid.Quote:
Originally Posted by m104da
^^^thx both
First time doing a pair of skis, wasn’t even that bad
Armada vjj 175 with atk free raider 14 2.0 mounted ~ -1.5cm from recommended line
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Welcome back hockey
My life is better than your dreams
looks like it's rookie night.
mounted my first new/undrilled ski. took forever. measure 7 times, drill once. learned some things and next ski will go faster. have some questions which I'll post separately.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...de1b316589.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...89bd82db02.jpg
???? The T handle shouldn't be able to spin around the tap. If it does, the tap's jaws aren't tight enough. You hit bottom when you can feel the resistance. When you do it a few times, you'll be able to count rotations to know when you should get there.Quote:
Originally Posted by m104da
And, if you want to go to the gold standard, you should first use a taper tap before the bottom tap.
Fat fish and fat fishscales:
Attachment 357815
nice
great job. if you're not doing inserts, there's really no need for the bit guide. unless you have no practice drilling straightQuote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
yeah, possibly overkill. once i get the hang if it all i could see going freehand.Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
Yes, you're right. I somehow didn't have it clamped on the squared off end!Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
But I managed to put inserts into one broken old practice ski and all went pretty well - except for one where the insert didn't "drop" and it felt like I was using too much force to get it to thread in. We'll see
Mounted my own fucking skis, again. Gotta love the Jigarex and how easy/fast it makes things go.
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One more question (for now!), and hypothetical (also for now!)... Still doing some practicing putting inserts into some old beater skis. In one case, the two rear toe holes were a few mm's too far forward, just enough that those two rear screws wouldn't go in straight. (Lesson learned to better check that punch hole is spot on, looking down through binding hole.) Anyway, if this screw up was on a real ski, would be ok to drill out the binding hole slightly bigger so the screw could align? I already drilled the holes out a bit so that the screws can drop through. Thx again
Well, if it was my ski, I would (and did) plug and re-drill. I had a wandering drill bit issue due to drilling near an old hole. I plugged with fiberglass and epoxy and re-drilled in this Swiss Cheese Holes Thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by m104da
... Thom
^^^got it, thank you
New Moment Bella's in 162 for our 11 yo granddaughter. She was able to demo them for three days before pulling the trigger. Being a racer I wondered how she would like a 108 underfoot ski when she spends a lot of time on narrow race boards. Took her 40 seconds to figure them out. Short slalom turns, big sweeping GS turns, did not matter. Only thing left is an opportunity to ski some powder with them but I doubt that will be an issue. This is our 16th pair of Moment skis, maybe a little OCD...Attachment 358342
On3p Wren108ti - the build quality is second to none! Can't wait to test them.
P.S. Serial # is 007 :)
Clean inserts. [emoji122]
Thank you.
Installing inserts on ON3P is like cheating - no bulging, no volcanos, no thread stripping. Didn't even need a beer afterwards :)
Bringing some bindings back from the dead.
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Ewwww.
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