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That's pretty borderline.Quote:
Originally Posted by slcdawg
I tend to prefer higher pressure over lower, all things being equal.
But if that's not an option, and the indicator did move, you are technically within the acceptable range.
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I’ve got some holes plugged with bamboo skewers and epoxy that I’d like to use. I’m assuming best approach is just to make new holes right next to them? No chance I’m pulling them out of assume? Maybe redrill right on top of them? Will the bit wander into the hole or away?
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Always assume the bit will walk if you are drilling anything other than a fresh top sheet. You can recover a a walked bit hole if you are careful.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeachesNCream
I should have found this thread sooner to mount my own effing skis, but alas here we are.
Had a pair of skis mounted by a reputable shop and had the heel piece rip out of one of the skis on a trip recently. Heel fully ripped off, holes volcanoed. (this was the first mount on a brand new ski) Got lucky and the ski didn't travel too far before stopping, so I still have both boards. Having never had this happen before, I'm curious what kind of compensation I should expect/ask for from the shop. Also aware that I may be I'm SOL.
(I attempted searching this thread for other posts mentioning this, but keyword searching is only so helpful. Not looking for a pile-on, as I've now learned my lesson, just searching for helpful, genuine advice)
I had this happen once. My theory was the screw turner didn’t get the screws down tight enough. Started, got distracted and forgot the heel wasn’t down. I stepped in and the brake felt a bit loose but didn’t think much of it. I shortly thereafter went for a ride hammering a traverse step down at high speed - but also didn’t lose the ski. The screw turner, after trying to accuse me of having done something wrong, agreed to get his boss involved who quickly offered to epoxy+helicoil the heel back on. Not sure I got the most I could have but I was traveling and wanted to ski the next day.Quote:
Originally Posted by a-star
Shortly after blowing up, hiking out of a deep bowl and taking a mid mountain chair down, the liftie at the bottom said “that is why you ski Look”. They were Salomon.
Tech at the mountain shop let me borrow a demo ski of the same model when he saw what happened. Unaffiliated shop, which I thought was cool.
At a minimum they should stick the heel back on.
what model of K2 were they, aside from "just skiing along" what happened prior to the heel ripping out?Quote:
Originally Posted by a-star
you want to use the same hole that you had plugged with the BBQ sqewer is what i read ?Quote:
Originally Posted by PeachesNCream
they ain't coming out but getting the holes in might be a more of a chore so I would centerpunch the sqewer with a good sharp punch ( I use a 4" DW screw ) then with the smallest bit in my set I havent broken yet drill a pilot hole in the squewer, then drill the screw hole and i think it would work
OR put the new holes 1cm away
BTW, that BBQ squewer was my idea one dark and stormy night
Some additional context and photos: Not K2 skis, they are the HL comp-build metal laminate R120 made in the Blossom factory in Italy. (The pink ones) Probably 15-20 days on the skis, some last season, my 5th day on 'em this season. Had been on a week-long ski trip and got lucky that this happened on the final afternoon of our trip. Right after lunch, we were on a an easy warm-up run. I was skiing the edge of a groomed run, soft packed powder. Not skiing fast, came over a small roller, hooked my right tip on a right-footed turn, ski caught in the snow, I went head-over-heels, popped back up and saw my binding tumbling down the hill. Got lucky and another person in my group tracked my ski (now brake-less) shoot off into some bushes.Attachment 509859Attachment 509860Quote:
Originally Posted by waxman
I think I'm getting better at doing cast mounts. Stoked on how these came out. Thanks SFB for the sick binders!!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...69d9c59828.jpg
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That binding pull out is quite surprising on an HL ski... They are you quite literally the most difficult ski I have ever tried to seat a screw into. I have a hard time imagining them pulling out.
Some questions that are not judgements...
Did you mount them yourself or a shop?
Do you know what bit size they used? Did they tap?
The best guess I would have right now would be that the cores are so dense that the binding was not actually snugged right down to the topsheet...and play = weak.
Even with lesser cores, I have stopped guaging how hard to tighten a screw based on difficulty to tighted... I push down hard and keep going until the baseplate of the binding is flush with the ski.
But I'm just guessing here.
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That's objectively hot... Nice work!Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
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so it looks like you ripped the binding out when you crashed, maybe if yer lucky the shop does a helicoil for you gratus if you if bought the whole package from them ?Quote:
Originally Posted by a-star
but really you crashed and ripped the binding out of the ski but don't spin it that way,
you were "just skiing along on a green run "
I imagine this is what happened— your shop guy didn’t tap and thought the screws were all the way in because they were so hard to turn. Only got them in a few mm.
My shop guy did the same thing on the first screw right in front of me. “Ah, we forgot to tap, bro,”.
Then he had me finish all the screws after he tapped. Haha. He didn’t want to be held responsible that the above happening. The HL cores are dense as fuck.
*edit. Oops. Shorty just said the same thing. Reading comprehension fail. I’ll take a lap.
I have R87 Comps and they were by far the hardest ski to get the screws into that I’ve ever mounted, and they were tapped. Core is burly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
I could easily see a shop not quite snugging it down completely.
+1 to HL cores being dense as fuck. I used a 4.1 (no metal) and lost skin trying to screw those in by hand. Ended up using an impact driver to suck the binding down. Would never do that with any other core I’ve encountered but I had no concern about stripping. I’m going to agree with the above, and say they didn’t suck the binding flat to the ski
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Yup we are on the same pageQuote:
Originally Posted by gaijin
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From the opinions on here, it sounds like the HL cores are tough to get screws into and the shop didn't get mine in enough and/or didn't tap the screws. I truly appreciate all the knowledge, opinions, and help on here. Next steps are to let the shop know that they messed up my bindings, check the bindings on all the other skis I've had this shop mount, and go educate myself on how to mount skis myself!
Yup... If you mount them yourself you know exactly who to blame.Quote:
Originally Posted by a-star
Plus you care more so you will do a better job.
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You don’t have to accuse the shop of messing up your mount. Explain what happened and see how they react. You could get a proper Pozi drive #3 and test all the other screws on that 120 mount and if any are loose / not fully driven - if so you politely arrive w/ evidence in hand. Otherwise, likely little to be gained by being accusatory. Good luck. Those Blossom HLs are killer.Quote:
Originally Posted by a-star
Related, I did turn screws into a FL105 today and thought I was done, looked at the toe at ski level, ways to go, muscled that toe down. Didn’t think anything of it at the time but now realize it jives w/ comments above.
Yeah, HL cores are some serious s.o.b.'s. A sprained wrist isn't out of the question.Quote:
Originally Posted by a-star
Truth.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Iron Horse
Difficult to turn; hand hurts afterwards.
Question… can’t get any roo glue in time. Titebond III sounds suboptimal due to rigidity. Any better hardware store options? Or best to beg shop for some glue?
This will be first regular (non insert and epoxy) mount.
Thx!
In a pinch Ive used 3M 5200 as well as Permatex blue. Both provide pretty permanent results but with a little heat you can break the screws out.
SVST binding glue is just Titebond II, so you’re likely OK with III.Quote:
Originally Posted by tang
^^^ bingo, thx both
time to try some sluggers…
Attachment 510321
Attachment 510322
mounted with some attack demos usin’ gregory’s paper templates.
psyched!
Gonna need to hear yer thoughts on the sluggers in due time. That shape speaks to me.
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EDIT: I brought them to a good shop in town, he tightened them all down. Toe is slightly off but the tech said don't sweat it. Release testing was perfect.
My drill must have slipped (or I didn’t find the right dimple) and I missed the hole. The other 3 are fine, just a weird angle.
What are my repair options besides remounting both bindings forward/back?
Helicoil? Binding freedom inserts?
At this point I’ll be taking them to a shop in the morning.
Attachment 510347
If only one hole is off and it's that front one....I personally would just chamfer / debur that a bit and then screw it down with a fuck tonne of down pressure on the screwdriver.Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB
Don't stop until the topsheet is flush with the binding baseplate.
Push down really fucking hard.
Also, if that was drilled with 3.6 you could also drill out that one hole to 4.1 first.
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+1 to above. That hole is fine. Give er the onion
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Looks like the other hole is off also.
x3 for going for it! Just get all four started before you crack any one screw full down. Try to bring them all in evenly. If you save the most “off” screw for last you likely won’t get it to catch. Use a slow cure marine epoxy for a little extra security.
Start all the screws and sequentially tighten down. Lots of down pressure. Don’t sweat that
Mounted my own fucking skis:
EDIT: You’ll need to trust me. App still sucking.
I guess we’ll just have to trust you on that.
Did my first threaded insert install on fresh skis. Stressful!
Went well with a few of the inserts spinning when I threaded them in but not after epoxy.
I overdid the tapping and should have stopped. Learned my lesson.
I used gflex as recommended by my buddy that lent me the bit and tap. Long cure but stays flexible not brittle.
I want a better way to remove the screw I use to thread in the inserts.
Make sure you have good solvent to clean up the epoxy overflow! I was worried I would epoxy my bindings down until I found some solvent in my basement.
And get vibratite BEFORE you start. I couldn't find it locally and had to order.
If you are worried about it, do it! I didn't use a drill press but had a little plastic guide to keep the bit vertical.
Long story short looking for a mounting bit in Santa Barbara CA asap. Need it by Wednesday. Or in mammoth on Thursday.
I am flying out to visit and said I would bring a bit but I forgot....
Inserts drill bits and taps are standard sizes. You can find them at home depot.
Put a wing nut on the screw you use to drive the inserts to get better Strava times.
Buy a bottle of wine with a real cork, drink the wine but save the cork and mayeb wait a day
drill a hole thru the cork with a 5/16th or 4.1 or 3.9 or wtf you are gona use
Get the right depth of hole by slipping the bit up/ down in the chuck to leave as much bit protruding from the cork as needed
if the drill slips all that happens is the hole won't be deep enough so tighten the chuck & try again
Its dentist proof eh
https://www.slidewright.com/dp/slide...allation-tool/
This little tool will make your life really easy. Wind the insert into the ski at the correct depth every time. Also, buy a selection of correctly sized stepped bits for screws and inserts.