Re: ATK freeraider 15: anyone know what size Allen wrench is needed for the freeride spacer shims? It seems to be somewhere between 2 & 2.5mm (seemingly the only two I have that are close)
[ETA]answered in other thread: T10
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Re: ATK freeraider 15: anyone know what size Allen wrench is needed for the freeride spacer shims? It seems to be somewhere between 2 & 2.5mm (seemingly the only two I have that are close)
[ETA]answered in other thread: T10
Looking forward to getting them in snow
Having now installed the shims on the FR spacer to <1mm gap, I’m seeing the autoclik step-in brake no longer works. Is it better to increase the spacer gap a little or just manually lock the brake each time?
Comparing to older setup:
BC Corvus w/ Look HM12 (Dynafit rotation rebrand)
Shorter by 4cm
Down a few mm underfoot
Tip & tail about the same (w/in a mm)
Lighter binding by almost half
Lighter skis by a few hundred grams
Turning radius shorter by 1m
I'm getting ready to do a couple of mounts but am like 10 years out of the game.
Paper templates still the way to go, or is there something better that's easily accessible and won't break the bank?
Jigarex still a thing?
Daughter just got a 3d printer for xmas, should I try to do something with that?
Am I missing something new and cool?
(Sorry if redundant, coming back after a multi-year TGR hiatus and am too many pages behind to catch up on this whole thread).
I got one of these last year but finally used it the other day, works mint. Supremely easy. Need to print some additional inserts for it.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ig-(printable)Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPowHound
(thread for the 3d printed jig pinned linked)
I also have one and it's great. Paper templates still work of course, but this is so much faster and hard to screw up.
I bought used skis with quiver killers installed. If I do another pair of skis with binding freedom inserts (because I have them) are they interchangeable? If I run out of inserts of one kind can I mix and match?
Binding freedom tools good for installation of quiver killer inserts?
QK & BF inserts are interchangeable.Quote:
Originally Posted by jhyatt
The main difference between the two, are the Binding Freedom inserts have a notch for a flat head screw driver:
Attachment 508567
Quiver Killers:
Attachment 508568
(Thanks to @1000oaks for the images.)
Awesome thanks that's super helpfulQuote:
Originally Posted by AlpiNord
I just found this mounting jig in my basement that I forgot I had. Will this work on all my old school 916s? What about the new strive 16? On the left it says driver quadrax poweraxe. How the hell do I use it? Lol. I bought the wrong size ski drill specific bit. Do I just use like the closest thing the 4 mm that I have? I’ve only mounted skis using a jigarex but that was a longgggggg time ago
https://imgur.com/gallery/H2zbP9P
That's the same Salomon jig I have. It'll work on 916, 997, 900, 912/914, and similar era. It'll fit a few of the Warden holes, and then can freehand the rest with the bindings. No idea on Strive.Quote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
Quadrax was a different old mount pattern IIRC.
Poweraxe was the riser plate, which used a different set of holes, but then the plates had the standard 916/914/900 etc pattern. I've used the Poweraxe plates to fit a mount where holes would otherwise overlap or be a little closer than I prefer.
OK, but also, how the hell do I use this thing? Do I just shove my boot in there between the blue stoppers and then lock it to length when the blue plastic pieces are tight against my toe and heel and then line up the center blue arrow with the center length of the ski, clamp the ends down, and drill all the holes that say driver?
Yes. The jig has a center mark that should match your boot center mark (the A line). The jig center mark should be aligned with the ski marking for boot center - - and there's often a range or several markings, so give that some thought on where you mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
Doublecheck that the length doesn't slip any when you're fine tuning the jig fore/ aft on the ski. And hold your bindings up to the jig and match up the holes, be sure you're drilling ones that you actually need.
I would add, assuming you have never used a jig, take a measurement from the tail of the ski to a point on the jig. Make sure you get the same measurement after you drilled the first ski and have things aligned on the second ski. At least if its slightly off the recommended on the first ski they will be mounted to the same point.
Where can I get a new set of screws to mount my 916s? What kind of screws are they? A few of mine are stripped. Also did something stupid. I screwed in the heel of the binding but I forgot the little metal plate that sits under the front few screws so I bubbled out the base since they were effectively too long. It’s not too bad, and it’s just a used pair of Franken Blades for my wife, but I feel dumb.
https://imgur.com/gallery/RSFHyKG
Also, how do I get the photos to actually embed? Man that was annoying lol
just posted in the paper template thread as well, but my experience was that I was further forward of my intended line on the pivot 2.0 binding using the fks template. on all my 1.0s ive always been right over my intended line. I also had to tighten/shorten the arms close to the first knurl to get forward pressure right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinned
im also thinking my old pivots are in real need of a greasing because the 2.0 heels move around a bit easier with forward pressure set right and the boot in the binding
Ive used BF inserts since the beginning. The brand doesn't matter but if you use the Slidewright insert installation tool you will land then in the correct place every time and look like a pro.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpiNord
My 4.5year old has skis with Salomon c5gw Bindings on it with a din range of 0-4. I can’t find any din charts that go this low. He probably weighs, I don’t know, maybe 40 pounds. I randomly have his din set on about 1.75. Anyone else with tiny skiers have any recommendations on din settings for the teenys?
https://www.mechanicsofsport.com/ski...alculator.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
anyone else have this problem mounting up the pivot 2.0?Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcub69
going to try to dial it in on a practice piece of wood, just can't figure out why the 2.0s would be putting my boot center forward of the line compared to the 1.0s ive mounted
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3a0ad6ffac.jpg
Mounted up 203 shiros and few season old m-pros.
Nice bike
So does anyone here have experience mounting the strive 16? It’s weird. There’s a two screw wide plastic strip that mounts first, and then only two screws for the actual toe piece. What’s the strategy? What’s the template? Any pitfalls to avoid?
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
So then, which of the currently produced available, Salomon bindings will work with this jig? Or is it all legacy products?
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...18#post7014518Quote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
I just installed some Strive 14's - drill holes, fasten stupid plastic toe parts, gently tap rest of toe piece into stupid plastic toe pieces with a rubber mallet or chunk of wood to seat them all they way, them insert other screws.
A peloton? Hardly something to get worked up about.Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
did you use a template? Or, lets presume your mounting center ski. Mark a center line, line up boot mid sole with middle of ski, mock put toe of boot in binding, just freehand mark the holes you can see in the toe piece and drill those. Then, bring up the heel and again just kinda draw marker through the holes you can see through in the binding and start drilling. Is that basically the gist?Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
I used a paper template from the following link, ran a dry run on a scrap 1x4, then went to town.Quote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...yYY6Gg2a3Dd245
The fucking DucatiQuote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
Used the MottN 3d printed jig to mount up some zero g 85s with the new version of the ATK Crest--mostly for local skimo league (turns out reverse cambered ravens are pretty sketchy trying to bomb an icy run in the dark with a headlamp...)
Attachment 509546
The jig made life easy. Not as easy as a "real" jig, but certainly better than mounting pin bindings with paper templates.
Only one problem: I overcooked my drill bit, which heated the brass sleeve, which warmed up the surrounding plastic enough to move out of position. I was expecting a ski this light to be a lot easier to drill through...not to have a reinforced mounting plate that I had to fight through with my bit.
I was still able to get the boot straight when tightening down the toe piece but I think the toe jig is now a little bit off. Guess I need a sharper bit...or in the future I'll only use the jig for layout on metal-layer skis, hit it with the center punch, and then drill outside of the jig.
TGR, where Ravens and Crests are a skimo setup [emoji23]
Sharp bits definitely make a big difference, I had just gotten used to the brass inserts slipping around and putting a ton of weight on the drill, but then got a new bit for my last few mounts and it's amazing how much less time and force it took.Quote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
Also idk if you're using pla or petg for the template but petg is a lot less likely to melt/warp.
The ones I make, I print in PETG fwiw (pretty sure I printed yours, right Singlesline?)
I've drilled more than a few metal skis and haven't had that happen to me personally. Might be a combination of taking longer to get through the metal and the bit being on the larger side, so more friction. I think the tolerance on ski bits is such that most of the time they work in the brass, but sometimes they are pretty tight or very rarely don't fit at all.
It be nice to be able to use a couple drops of cutting fluid...I'm guessing that's a pretty bad idea as you wouldn't want a bunch of oil in a hole you're about to glue...
Recently had a successful mount of the ATK Freeraider 15 to some Head Kore 111's.
Attachment 509566
Took three templates to get it done. Used a FKS/Pivot template, the one that used to come in the box that I have used at least 25 times, to establish the centerline of the ski. Used the ATK printable template from their website to transfer the toe pin line and heel based on my BSL to a mylar template that I've made. Mylar template got placed on centerline, BSL on rec line and drilled.
Finish product.
Attachment 509567
Very happy ATK choose to use the tried and true posi-drive screws instead of torque heads like dynafit. One small gripe with ATK is I wish they had used a beefier screw head on the heel track adjuster. I do like how much less force it takes to step into the heel pins versus the dynafit FT Verts and the HM-12's that I've used in the past. I do also question how much stopping power the brakes have. The seem pretty spindly!
Worst part of the process was that it was like 10 degrees in my garage.
:fmicon:Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
Yeah, I could tell the bit was getting hot but I pushed my luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
And I think I was pushing so hard at that point that I also wasn’t doing a great job of holding the drill straight…because I really didn’t expect skis this light to be hard to drill!
Hey now, I won my first ever skimo race on the ravens (let’s ignore that I had no idea what I was doing so I entered the 1-lap category that was mostly children and senior citizens…).Quote:
Originally Posted by bfree
As for the crests…well…I’m not seriously racing. I’m doing some beer league races for fun and maybe suffering through the one big event my local mountain puts on. This seemed like a pretty light setup that I might actually want to ski and would feel safe skiing on.
Not like my boots are super light either…I’m in a 15-1600g boot
Don't use cutting oil to go through metal in a ski. Sharp bits are the answer every time. If you are mounting lots of skis with metal then you need to buy more bits. Once a bit takes a little more pressure to get though a top sheet, metal or no metal, I retire it into the Household Bit Collection. Dull bits lead to problems and unless you are a machinist sharpening them might lead to a bit walking off sideways. Bits are cheap enough in the grand scheme of things to always have a few new ones on hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Dumb question, which I think I know the answer. Trying to adjust Look SPX bindings on a loaner ski, and set forward pressure. I know the yellow indicator is supposed to be in the middle but mostly yellow at as far forward as adjustment will allow. Is this good or do I need to move rear mount forward 1 cm?
If moving, will wood glue set in a couple hours? They are headed up this evening. Thanks.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5579f7889d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2abe193c03.jpg
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looking for templates
Dynafit Ridge and 7 Summits