PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

Trying to mount Tectons on a pair of Praxis BCs. Searched the thread and all I found was a post stating "installing Tecton brakes is annoying." Which is why I am stalled. I've done Vipecs and I remember the brakes being fiddly but I cannot get the Tecton brake assembly together. Any hints, tips, tricks, etc.?

The plastic piece that holds the brake arms is at least 2mm wider than the slots on the brake holder. Not much flex in it either. Can't squeeze it hard enough to get it to slide together. For clarification...
These
Attachment 507423

Have to slide in here
Attachment 507424

What am I doing wrong?

I hard to work in a ski shop that did a lot of Tecton mounts. The brakes are very fiddly. I remember that we had a trick where we squeezed the brakes together (towards each other) at the very end of the arms. I think that would give the plastic piece just enough flex to fork inwards and slide into the brake holder. This was on the older gen Tectons, so maybe the same thing doesn’t apply here, but it’s worth a shot!

Been a quick minute since I did a tecton, but I think you need to swap the heel into walk mode (or ski mode??) to make enough room for the brakes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PinyonJuniper5

I hard to work in a ski shop that did a lot of Tecton mounts. The brakes are very fiddly. I remember that we had a trick where we squeezed the brakes together (towards each other) at the very end of the arms. I think that would give the plastic piece just enough flex to fork inwards and slide into the brake holder. This was on the older gen Tectons, so maybe the same thing doesn’t apply here, but it’s worth a shot!

---

Thanks, definitely tried that once but to no avail. Will give 'er another go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ASmileyFace

Been a quick minute since I did a tecton, but I think you need to swap the heel into walk mode (or ski mode??) to make enough room for the brakes.

---

I'm not even to that stage yet...gotta put the brakes together first.

For search purposes...

Installing Tecton brakes

Found this tutorial from Lou at OpenSnow. Don't waste your time. He says by tilting the brake arm assembly, it will slide into the brake holder with minimal effort. Untrue.

This YouTube video (linked on SkiTalk aka EpicSki) is even more worthless. I can tell you without a doubt, you cannot simply slide the brake arm assembly into the brake holder.

I used zip ties (a Voile strap would probably work) to squeeze the brake arms together. I then placed the jaws of a channel lock pliers so that the jaws' edges were right under the brake arms. A gentle squeeze and the parts slid together like magic. No tilting or contorting, just slid right in.
Attachment 507438

Now working on how to get the brake assembly set so that the length adjustment nut nests in the brake holder receptacle. Lou does mention that it's fiddly.

It's not that bad...place the brake assembly so that the small slots on the end of the arms engage with the ridges on the heel assembly (the YT video is actually pretty good for this part). While keeping the arms in place, flip the lever up to walk mode. This slides everything into place. Press the adjustment nut down into the well on the brake holder and then put the lever back to its "heel engaged" position. Now you just slide the whole shebang on from the rear of the mounting plate. A touch of white lithium grease along the interface ridge makes things easy peasy.

Drilling out holes with a 6.5 bit to install inserts, I gave a little too much downward pressure and the step failed to stop the bit. Plunged about 2.5mm into the topsheet. So i've got a couple different problems to work through: the first and most obvious one being the difference in circumferences between the outside of the insert and the hole in the topsheet. I'll have about a 1mm gap between the two and will also lose that 2.5mm of thread purchase. And the second problem being the gap between the bottom of the insert and the bottom of the hole if I install the insert flush with the topsheet.
Pic for reference
Attachment 507513
what is the move here? filling w/ fg and gflex and redrilling is what immediately comes to mind but i'd rather not do all that shit to be honest. Anyone see an easier way?

As I’ve been drinking the G/Flex kool aid (and inserts) for a long time, I would try as you mentioned, some below and some above. For my old man skiing I think the insert would be fine, and assuming all the other inserts are good, you might get a little warning before you die?

Many ways to skin a cat - Put release agent on insert, fill insert hole with putty, add a good dab of JB weld, install insert into ski, clean off JB weld with acetone. Let JB weld cure 24 hours, remove insert and clean out putty, reinstall insert.

ended up accepting my fate and mixing up some g flex n' fg. tapped the hole before i added the resin for that extra bit of surface area and bombproofness. since i drilled so far into the core, i was able to test an idea i've had for a while now: applying heat to the base directly under the hole to heat the epoxy and release and fill air bubbles from the bottom up. worked a charm with a hair dryer on its lowest setting and in about half the time vs heating from the top.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MyNameIsAugustWest

For search purposes...

Installing Tecton brakes

Found this tutorial from Lou at OpenSnow. Don't waste your time. He says by tilting the brake arm assembly, it will slide into the brake holder with minimal effort. Untrue.

This YouTube video (linked on SkiTalk aka EpicSki) is even more worthless. I can tell you without a doubt, you cannot simply slide the brake arm assembly into the brake holder.

I used zip ties (a Voile strap would probably work) to squeeze the brake arms together. I then placed the jaws of a channel lock pliers so that the jaws' edges were right under the brake arms. A gentle squeeze and the parts slid together like magic. No tilting or contorting, just slid right in.
Attachment 507438

Now working on how to get the brake assembly set so that the length adjustment nut nests in the brake holder receptacle. Lou does mention that it's fiddly.

It's not that bad...place the brake assembly so that the small slots on the end of the arms engage with the ridges on the heel assembly (the YT video is actually pretty good for this part). While keeping the arms in place, flip the lever up to walk mode. This slides everything into place. Press the adjustment nut down into the well on the brake holder and then put the lever back to its "heel engaged" position. Now you just slide the whole shebang on from the rear of the mounting plate. A touch of white lithium grease along the interface ridge makes things easy peasy.

---

I don't think I've ever used a tool or zipties to install a Tecton brake.
The first one of the year is always a pain just because I forget the mechanics of it.
I just went to the binding shelves to get one to see if I could shed some light on the procedure.
Nope, because brakes come preinstalled now. So good news, I guess.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by waveshello

So sick! Oddly enough I was just thinking about that combo, and had both of those open in tabs. I haven't skied the newer renegade shape, but it looks pretty dialed as a pow touring ski. Hope you love em.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...44f1c24e9d.jpg

---

Thanks! Yeah, stoked on how they came out. Got them out on the hill for some wind buffed pow today and they were great.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by waxman

I don't think I've ever used a tool or zipties to install a Tecton brake.
The first one of the year is always a pain just because I forget the mechanics of it.
I just went to the binding shelves to get one to see if I could shed some light on the procedure.
Nope, because brakes come preinstalled now. So good news, I guess.

---

Maybe you aren't handicapped with weak, small-child-sized hands. Like I am.

Seriously...I had to have my pistols customized in the Army because I could barely qualify with the standard Baretta 9mm. Did pretty well once I had a gun I could control.

^^^ drumpfs bastard child?

Small hands means small gloves. Or something like that

New binders for Bodes. Do I go Raw or Army?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4211328bd9.jpg

Edit: mounted another pair of my own fucking skis

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...18ad4c6511.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Core Shot

^^^ drumpfs bastard child?

---

I hope that bitch is buck wild.

https://youtu.be/hk1TrwraZms?si=RhWLo7tVWCDbtRFv

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sf

New binders for Bodes. Do I go Raw or Army?

---

Raw is the way.

Tell u what….the gold pivots are sweet too…..mounted a pair this past weekend along with some raws….both look great.

Gold wardens on some gold sheevas for my daughter
Attachment 507914

Strive 14's on Ripstick 116's
Attachment 507915

my luck finally ran out. A dreaded spinner on a recent mount. I've tried to search through this thread for how to repair guidance, if someone could please summarize I'd greatly appreciate it. Leaning towards epoxy vs heli coil. thanks

PM skifishbum

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chaka

my luck finally ran out. A dreaded spinner on a recent mount. I've tried to search through this thread for how to repair guidance, if someone could please summarize I'd greatly appreciate it. Leaning towards epoxy vs heli coil. thanks

---

g-flex mixed with chopped fiberglass. i hate working with fg so i order this stuff: https://fiberglasssupply.com/1-2-pin...hopped-strand/
you want it thick, mixed thoroughly, and applied generously. i like to use a qtip with the cotton tips stripped for mixing and application. coat inside of hole completely, screw in screw almost entirely, give things 24 hours to set and cure, then go back and crank down on the screw the rest of the way.

wow you can get the FG pre -chopped SO no need to get one of your illegals to do it

Good thing cuz they will all be deported soon anyway, oh the humanity

Mama’s ready to rip

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stealurface831

g-flex mixed with chopped fiberglass. i hate working with fg so i order this stuff: https://fiberglasssupply.com/1-2-pin...hopped-strand/
you want it thick, mixed thoroughly, and applied generously. i like to use a qtip with the cotton tips stripped for mixing and application. coat inside of hole completely, screw in screw almost entirely, give things 24 hours to set and cure, then go back and crank down on the screw the rest of the way.

---

thanks! I definitely would not have thought to do the 24hr wait and crank down step. I have to wonder for such a small amount of bonding material (volume of the hole - volume of the screw) how important is the fiberglass. If the idea is to do micro reinforcement of the epoxy (like rebar in concrete) I guess any fiber would work, ie steel wool.

I think one would have to be pretty fucked up on long term tolulene huffage and homemade wine to think of that ^^

Yes rebar and make the mixture FG rich

is epoxy and fiberglass the move for drilling into old holes partially?

bought some new me to sticks that were previously mounted w cast. ill be casting as well. I can reuse the old holes but might have/want to move the binders. if I do, the only conflict will be the holes from the brake lock/climbing bail assembly.. so not much force there.

I should be good to fill the cast specific holes with epoxy and fg and drill into them partially after they cure?

I have only fixed spinners with the FG/ epoxy its alwasy worked and its seems to have worked for others in the TGR,

so would a hell-of-a-coil of cores

but I have never dr1illed into partial holes, never filled & drilled dowell or FG or anything like that

cuz as a best practise I always leave 1cm between where I would drill a new hole and an old hole

but people do all kinds of things

On something that will not take force (ie a CAST touring bracket), I would feel comfortable using slowset epoxy and re-drilling partially. YMMV tho.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bearcub69

is epoxy and fiberglass the move for drilling into old holes partially?

bought some new me to sticks that were previously mounted w cast. ill be casting as well. I can reuse the old holes but might have/want to move the binders. if I do, the only conflict will be the holes from the brake lock/climbing bail assembly.. so not much force there.

I should be good to fill the cast specific holes with epoxy and fg and drill into them partially after they cure?

---

Try a dry mount and mostly tighten the screws. If they feel solid go for it. If they aren’t solid helicoil the holes or fill and move.

I would recommend that anyone mounting their own bindings buy a helicoil kit. I’ve had spinners on new undrilled skis and of course old holes. The kit comes with a lifetime supply of coils practically. Driving a screw in a hole that’s been helicoiled is confidence inspiring, you can’t strip it by hand, the tighter you get the screw the more the coil expands.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I’ve fixed spinners with jb weld long set

Yeah. Not sure how glass fibers work there. Glass and epoxy make sense for filling holes.

Mounted some fucking skis yesterday. As always thanks to mottn for the jig design.

FR110 for me and blaze 106 for my partner. Off to BC this morning!

Attachment 508100Attachment 508101Attachment 508102

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

Need to mount some moment blades. They recommend 3.6x9 bits. I have a 3.5x9.5

Good enough? Am I overthinking this?

Good enough

Mounting Pivot 2.0s - same as standard? Can use the regular Pivot templates, right? Do I need to make any adjustments to how I mount? I normally use all the distances from the paper template and forward pressure is good right in the middle of the range.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bearcub69

is epoxy and fiberglass the move for drilling into old holes partially?

bought some new me to sticks that were previously mounted w cast. ill be casting as well. I can reuse the old holes but might have/want to move the binders. if I do, the only conflict will be the holes from the brake lock/climbing bail assembly.. so not much force there.

I should be good to fill the cast specific holes with epoxy and fg and drill into them partially after they cure?

---

I use oak dowels and slow set epoxy for this application. You want a dowel that is slightly larger than your old hole. Slather some slow set in the hole, use a pencil sharpener to create a tapered end on the piece of dowel, and hammer it into the hole. Let it set for 24 hours and you can drill right next to the old hole. Trim off the excess dowel with an oscillating tool. Have done this on both toes and heels and never had an issue but I don't huck anything taller than me. YMMV.

I usually put some epoxy over the top of the trimmed dowel but oak doesn't soak up much water so it depends on how old the skis are.

^^^toothpicks work well for this application too. Jam as many as you can in the hole with epoxy.

Toothpicks are mostly made of birch which is naturally water resistant and are easy to cut off flat after they set in place.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MyNameIsAugustWest

I use oak dowels and slow set epoxy for this application. You want a dowel that is slightly larger than your old hole. Slather some slow set in the hole, use a pencil sharpener to create a tapered end on the piece of dowel, and hammer it into the hole. Let it set for 24 hours and you can drill right next to the old hole. Trim off the excess dowel with an oscillating tool. Have done this on both toes and heels and never had an issue but I don't huck anything taller than me. YMMV.

I usually put some epoxy over the top of the trimmed dowel but oak doesn't soak up much water so it depends on how old the skis are.

---

have you ever partially drilled into the oak dowel as well? Ill only be drilling into a hole that will hold a CAST brake/climbing aid assembly

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pinned

Mounting Pivot 2.0s - same as standard? Can use the regular Pivot templates, right? Do I need to make any adjustments to how I mount? I normally use all the distances from the paper template and forward pressure is good right in the middle of the range.

---

For anyone else curious, seems everything is the same. Mounted up cleanly using the standard Pivot template I've been using.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bearcub69

have you ever partially drilled into the oak dowel as well? Ill only be drilling into a hole that will hold a CAST brake/climbing aid assembly

---

Yes. No problemo. Just watch for the bit trying to wander. I use a drill press. Always start the process with a tap from a nail set or an awl (or even a nail). I think the oak dowel adds some strength to overlapping holes, more so than slow set and fiberglass threads.

Mounting some Pivots with the Slide Wright jig. I just did a test mount. For my 300 BSL, I had to set up at 305 for the adjusters to land on the middle ring. I don't see any issues.

I'm being extra obsessive on this one since they're the first full price skis I've bought in years. :eek: